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Devin

What Have You Done To Your Bull Lately?

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I went to get the Taurus serviced at the dealer, and I am NOT HAPPY at all! When I was driving home, the throttle felt 'weird' to me, almost as if it was sticking. So I pull over and take a look at the recall clip that they had just put on. They put it on backwards! So thank you to 'The White Falcon' for taking pictures of your recall fix so I could put my clip on properly. Then I check the oil, and it's 1/2 qt low. So they didn't even put enough oil back in it after they changed the oil. And I know I don't have an oil leak because I just checked the oil level last night and it was right at the full mark. But I saved the best for last. When the car was in for inspection in April, the dealer told me my rear brakes were at 3/32", so I was going to need the brakes changed soon. So I told the service rep today to check the rear brakes. I then get the report card back on the brakes and it says that my rear brakes are at 7/32"! So either they lied to me back in April, or they didn't even check the brakes during this visit. I believe that they didn't even look at the brakes this visit because the rear brakes have about 20K miles on them, and I think they are due to be changed. So I ordered the parts from RockAuto, and I'll change the rear brakes myself. The sucky part is that there are no reliable mechanics around my neck of the woods. But I know one thing, I will not be returning to that dealer for anything.

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I hate dealer mechanics. Laziest most useless pieces of s**ts in the world. I'd rather trust my car with a high school student in Auto Shop than with a dealership.

Exception: I had a great experience at a dealership in North Carolina, probably because the tech who did alignments was old, probably had tons of experience, and didn't f**k around.

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I hate dealer mechanics. Laziest most useless pieces of s**ts in the world. I'd rather trust my car with a high school student in Auto Shop than with a dealership.

Did a lot of work to the Sable in my shop class!

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I did a TON of work to my old Contour GL. That car was practically a new car when I was done with it :lol:

I miss my Contour, that's a car I regret selling every single day... :(

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I hate dealer mechanics. Laziest most useless pieces of s**ts in the world. I'd rather trust my car with a high school student in Auto Shop than with a dealership.

Exception: I had a great experience at a dealership in North Carolina, probably because the tech who did alignments was old, probably had tons of experience, and didn't f**k around.

Thanks for the plug for old coots. I resemble that.

The old part, not sure about the rest.

Cheers.

-chart-

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Well, let me start from the top.

Had already swapped relays and checked fuses. Starter still wouldn't engage. Solenoid was clicking.

Pulled starter (not too hard, actually, once you remove the battery tray).

Went to parts store where I had confirmed just the day before that they stocked starters for my car. Parts guy says "I don't stock that starter". He checked, and sure enough, they didn't have it. Turns out the idiot the day before, despite my repeated insistance to the contrary, looked up the starter for the Vulcan.

Went to AutoZone next (they were the closest from the last store). Tested starter. Starter passed twice. So, took it back to the car.

Mounted starter. Made sure connections and grounds were tight. Still no start.

Checked the battery (remember, I had it load tested Wednesday, the day the car crapped out, and was told "It's showing the same readings as a new battery". Battery read 9 volts. So, we jumped it, and after a bit, finally got it started.

At this point, there was no way I was going back to O'Reilly to let them mess up the battery check again. AutoZone hooked up the load tester, turned it on, and the person was like "yeah, this thing's dead". (I saw the display, and it immediately flicked to "BAD" when she turned it on).

So, $114 later, I have a new battery and a working car. And I was foiled twice by parts store idiots in three days.

In the end, it is true-the Visteon starters are indestructible on the DOHC. ;)

(Also, no oil on the starter this time, though it's messy under the car again from the RMS leak).

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Well, let me start from the top.

Had already swapped relays and checked fuses. Starter still wouldn't engage. Solenoid was clicking.

Pulled starter (not too hard, actually, once you remove the battery tray).

Went to parts store where I had confirmed just the day before that they stocked starters for my car. Parts guy says "I don't stock that starter". He checked, and sure enough, they didn't have it. Turns out the idiot the day before, despite my repeated insistance to the contrary, looked up the starter for the Vulcan.

Went to AutoZone next (they were the closest from the last store). Tested starter. Starter passed twice. So, took it back to the car.

Mounted starter. Made sure connections and grounds were tight. Still no start.

Checked the battery (remember, I had it load tested Wednesday, the day the car crapped out, and was told "It's showing the same readings as a new battery". Battery read 9 volts. So, we jumped it, and after a bit, finally got it started.

At this point, there was no way I was going back to O'Reilly to let them mess up the battery check again. AutoZone hooked up the load tester, turned it on, and the person was like "yeah, this thing's dead". (I saw the display, and it immediately flicked to "BAD" when she turned it on).

So, $114 later, I have a new battery and a working car. And I was foiled twice by parts store idiots in three days.

In the end, it is true-the Visteon starters are indestructible on the DOHC. ;)

(Also, no oil on the starter this time, though it's messy under the car again from the RMS leak).

Glad it was an easy (although somewhat pricey) fix. I know how frustrating electrical issues can be. My car had issues from the time I bought it back in 2010. Very slowly over several months my lights started flickering, then the dash would go haywire and the stereo would cut out. I replaced the battery once and the alternator twice. Still did it. I finally pulled the PCM connector, cleaned it and reseated it much tighter than before. Been problem free ever since. I'm still mad I spent money on stuff I didn't need.

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Pricey, but not as, much as a new starter. They wanted $150 or so after tax for a Duralast one. Rebuilt Motorcraft on Rock Auto was $200.

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5 step exterior detail

1009041_408353532610178_1150292762_o.jpg

datshine

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and +1 to Kevin on the older generation knowing what they're doing.

WAy too many inexperienced technicians working on vehicles. Dealers greasing people for bullsh*t and/or unnecessary service.

Hense why I do my own work - I know what the heck I'm doing. Short of mounting tires and doing alignments, I'll do it myself.

Speaking of...I'm in the middle of changing out the lower control arms on the SHO as well as replacing the strut mounts/bearings. Also will do the intake and the coolant reservoir (has a Vulcan one in w/no low coolant sensor).

I miss the $10 a strut guy down the street, such a great resource I'll gladly pay for. Called around for quotes from other places. Prices ranged from $60-90 to spend 10 min of work changing out strut mounts that I provide. Yea probably not...

post-13-0-43525600-1377402034_thumb.jpeg

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I miss the $10 a strut guy down the street, such a great resource I'll gladly pay for. Called around for quotes from other places. Prices ranged from $60-90 to spend 10 min of work changing out strut mounts that I provide. Yea probably not...

At that point its almost worth it to just buy the small spring compressor tools you can use at home. I use them all the time, bot as easy as using the fancy tools the shops and most jobbers have but it saves a trip and some money.

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Completed the steering wheel swap and addition of the lighted cruise. Also found and added light silver gauge faces.

Discovered that 2002 cars are prewired for lighted cruise control buttons, although the clock spring lacks the proper wires to link the body and the steering wheel harness together. All you need are some lighted buttons and a 2003 clock spring.

Only problem is that I now have a door ajar chime (key in ignition) all the time with the drivers door open. I am leaning toward a bad contact at the single wire/metal tab at the ignition cylinder. So I guess the steering wheel is coming back off tomorrow so I can fix that.

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Gota love Ford...can get some parts of the harness together but not all of it by October 2001. March 2002 it seems like when you started seeing illuminated cruise control.

I probably will end up doing that Chris. I loathe the rent-a-tool spring compressors - would love to have one from Branick, but that costs $$$$$

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Gota love Ford...can get some parts of the harness together but not all of it by October 2001. March 2002 it seems like when you started seeing illuminated cruise control.

I probably will end up doing that Chris. I loathe the rent-a-tool spring compressors - would love to have one from Branick, but that costs $$$$$

Unless they had a large surplus of non lighted buttons and old clock springs.

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I probably will end up doing that Chris. I loathe the rent-a-tool spring compressors - would love to have one from Branick, but that costs $$$$$

What dont you like about them? Also you guys in bigger towns are lucky, neither of my two local parts stores rent tools. so i normally end up just buying them.

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You should blackout the mirror caps!

haha not the top of my priorities

My friend has a Cobra and visits Mustang forums there's a huge clue for you ;)

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What dont you like about them? Also you guys in bigger towns are lucky, neither of my two local parts stores rent tools. so i normally end up just buying them.

I've had one slip once and launch a spring.

AutoZone, Advance Auto, and O'Reillys do loan-a-tool here. Put $X down, when your return you get $X back.

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Hmm, I have never had one slip before.. you could put adhesive backed sand paper on them to get a better bite if desired

We have one Napa and one Auto Value. That's it.

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Gota love Ford...can get some parts of the harness together but not all of it by October 2001. March 2002 it seems like when you started seeing illuminated cruise control.

I probably will end up doing that Chris. I loathe the rent-a-tool spring compressors - would love to have one from Branick, but that costs $$$$$

Someone need a harness built?

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

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Finished the Steering Wheel swap this afternoon by correcting the key in ignition warning chime. Fords design is a little tricky and you need to be careful to insure you replace the metal contact properly.

Here you can see the ignition, the key in warning slider contact has to rest on top of the orange piece way in the back. During removal the metal tab becomes bent and then wants to slide in behind the orange plastic piece. Bending it back to flat didn't help as the angle was all wrong. I ended up using one of my small pick tools to guide the metal tab in front of the orange piece where it rests on a copper contact. Works as it should now.

IMG_1610_zps12fc3fd3.jpg

Finished Product, wheel and gauges.

IMG_1612_zps3dbb4317.jpg

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Look at that, your car is getting all fancy and s**t. :P

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Returned back to stock today. Going back to the SCT tune when I get home tonight.

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Let someone else drive it!!!!!! Ha drove it out and met up with thesavo today! Real nice time looking over each other's rides and taking a test drive! Learned quite a bit about some wiring and circuitry too! Very knowledgeable! Fun time... hope to meet up again soon!

25gdru1.jpg

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