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Devin

What Have You Done To Your Bull Lately?

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IMG_20130703_161137_zps8d20f075.jpg

This is how I've temporarily fixed the cowl leak.

Yes, that is Poster Putty (Loctite-brand, if you were wondering), covered over with paper tape.

500 miles on it and nearly two weeks, no leaks!

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IMG_20130703_161137_zps8d20f075.jpg

This is how I've temporarily fixed the cowl leak.

Yes, that is Poster Putty (Loctite-brand, if you were wondering), covered over with paper tape.

500 miles on it and nearly two weeks, no leaks!

For what it is worth, mine do not come close to seal, and no leaks. They are not supposed to seal.

Water just runs down and into the drain.

If the water gets into the interior, you need a rain hat extension.

Mine have that. One came that way, one I got from the JY and that fixed my water in the blower pain.

-chart-

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JYfindsB_zpsde82c43d.jpg

A/C clutch/pulley installed and working just fine. It can be done in the car. Got the pulley and plate at the JY.

Someone put a new compressor and stuff on a car and junked it. No paint even rubbed off the pulley.

And got the brake pedal rubber also. Have not had one for so long I do not remember, so took this op.

-chart-

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JYfindsB_zpsde82c43d.jpg

A/C clutch/pulley installed and working just fine. It can be done in the car. Got the pulley and plate at the JY.

Someone put a new compressor and stuff on a car and junked it. No paint even rubbed off the pulley.

And got the brake pedal rubber also. Have not had one for so long I do not remember, so took this op.

-chart-

ACpulley_zps30f056ae.jpg

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SubFrameBolt_zpsc66dd35a.jpg

Had on ramps today to replace the air dam after doing the A/C clutch.

And, while at the JY picked up some good sub frame bolts. Find them on the ground where others dropped a sub.

Free since I bought other items.

Used the half inch impact one at a time pulled them, sparyed the hole with lube, and put used good one back in.

How knows what is other bulls.

-chart-

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Cleaned the steering wheel with saddle soap and clean cloth.

OK it was clean.

Now the wheel feels much better, not so sticky.

Then did the dirvers seat belt with saddle soap, new cloth, not quite so dirty but rather bad.

Oh well, little maint.

-chart-

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I use ArmorAll leather cleaner on my leather wheel and shifter. I did use saddle soap on the shifter at first, since it had sat in the elements (the driver door on that Continental was left open) for so long. Leather wheels are nice, but they do start wearing out, it seems...

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My leather wheel isn't wearing out at all. Mine on the 2000 wasn't wearing out at all either. The wheel on the 2000 was nicer. It was softer than the one on the 08.

I use meguiars leather cleaner stuff that comes in a pump bottle. It's like a goo that you wipe into things. It works very well. With enough elbow grease it really cleans dirt off and softens things up!

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My leather wheel isn't wearing out at all. Mine on the 2000 wasn't wearing out at all either. The wheel on the 2000 was nicer. It was softer than the one on the 08.

I use meguiars leather cleaner stuff that comes in a pump bottle. It's like a goo that you wipe into things. It works very well. With enough elbow grease it really cleans dirt off and softens things up!

My wagon has a hard life. I haul stuff, lawn mowers, tree trimmings, garden stuff, mulch and such. Also many short trips, and many trips to the JY. So my hands are dirty and the seat belt and wheel get dirty. I happen to have saddle soap and it works. I also use SS for another use. I use a damp rag and SS and wipe my dash. Then let it dry and do not wipe it dry. Leaves it dull and minimum reflection.

And was at the JY today and did not have a towel to clean my hands. Got couple COP's for the Lincoln. Not many chances for that. Switching them out two at a time to find the one that is funky.

-chart-

Edited by -chart-

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Mine's okay, but it's got some hairline cracks in areas, and has a spot where the coloring is wearing.

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I pulled the cowling intending to put some closed-cell foam underneath as a new weatherstripping. Then I couldn't find where I'd left the stuff. So I tested the thing, couldn't get it to leak. I have no idea how water got in that last time.

Vacuumed and cleaned the interior, cleaned up the engine bay, and cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter.

Stupid kick when the AC is on at idle is still there. Even after wiping the KAM and doing the idle relearn procedure. It's not as frequent, but I'm sure that, as always, it will get worse as the PCM records more data. So sick and tired of this car. It will be sold when it's paid off.

Gotta say, I saw one of these today (a Premier model). Looks very nice...

2010_Mercury_Milan_Premier_%282009-05-17%29.jpg

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So Falcon.

Expain the "kick" when the A/C is at idle.

I have had what I might call that.

Not any more.

I will share if it is the same thing.

-chart-

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Bought all leather interior and 4.5 gen tails

Pick A Part in fredricksburg is a Taurus heaven

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So Falcon.

Expain the "kick" when the A/C is at idle.

I have had what I might call that.

Not any more.

I will share if it is the same thing.

-chart-

It feels like an intermittent misfire or detonation. Happens most often when the car is in gear, idling, with the AC on-like at a stoplight. But it can happen in park as well. If you feel the engine, it's just a little kick. One at a time, and the spacing between them varies. Gets worse the longer it goes without a PCM wipe, it seems.

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It feels like an intermittent misfire or detonation. Happens most often when the car is in gear, idling, with the AC on-like at a stoplight. But it can happen in park as well. If you feel the engine, it's just a little kick. One at a time, and the spacing between them varies. Gets worse the longer it goes without a PCM wipe, it seems.

PlugWires2_zps8d218594.jpg

My '03 Sable DOHC, had what felt like a misfire at idle. No codes, got worse with time. My carchip recorder showed only spark advance way out of line at the time of the "apparent" misfire. I took it to the Ford garage and they said their test showed #2 and #3 carbon tracked plug wires. They replaced them and it ran fine. I replaced the plugs and found this in the wire off that plug. I replaced all plugs.

Garage said it was not a misfire, but electromagnetic radiation messing up the PCM. Not un heard of. No explanation of why that happens.

Issue is only the rear bank where the spark is reverse polarity.

However your mention of A/C is this sidebar. My wagon had engine speed up when the A/C clutch kicked in. Seems the clutch was slipping and soon failed, see pic on this post a few earlier. Clutch burned to a crisp, but still A/C working.

-chart-

-chart-

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I'll check them when I get a chance. The problem is that all those parts (plugs, wires, coil pack) have been replaced, at different times, over the last seven thousand miles.

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I'll check them when I get a chance. The problem is that all those parts (plugs, wires, coil pack) have been replaced, at different times, over the last seven thousand miles.

The plug and wire in the pic is one year old.

Motorcraft OEM style wires, installed by the Ford garage, with silicone plug grease.

Best of luck.

-chart-

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You know - WF - you should check the health and alignment of your compressor. Make sure you have the proper gaping.

What tools are you using the monitor the issue?

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You know - WF - you should check the health and alignment of your compressor. Make sure you have the proper gaping.

What tools are you using the monitor the issue?

As far as trims and other items? My simple scan tool and torque.

It wouldn't surprise me if the compressor is going out, though that noise has gotten a lot better with the new belt.

...can I fix any gap issues with a hammer? :lol:

Unfortunately, I'm basically stuck with just looking at it and hoping it doesn't blow up on me.

Plus, if it was the compressor, it doesn't make sense that it gets better after I wipe the data from the PCM...

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As far as trims and other items? My simple scan tool and torque.

It wouldn't surprise me if the compressor is going out, though that noise has gotten a lot better with the new belt.

...can I fix any gap issues with a hammer? :lol:

Unfortunately, I'm basically stuck with just looking at it and hoping it doesn't blow up on me.

Plus, if it was the compressor, it doesn't make sense that it gets better after I wipe the data from the PCM...

As to A/C clutch

ACclPlate_zps8a47f2d1.jpg

Most likely your A/C clutch plate looked like this when new. The three buttons are rubber springs that retract the plate when the power is removed from the coil. If those rubber buttons are in good visible shape then you are OK for failure for now. The air gap is measured with a feeler gage. Min is .014 and max is ~.040". It is adjusted by removing the plate and removing shim washers which would likely stay inside the plate when it is pulled off. The plate goes on a stright spline and pulls off easily when the center bolt is removed.

That is the PAIN.

Whole nother story.

-chart-

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Well, all three springs are gone, so I guess that's another thing that'll have to be replaced. And it means I'm not taking it up north this next week. It's not going to be fixed any time soon.

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Well, all three springs are gone, so I guess that's another thing that'll have to be replaced. And it means I'm not taking it up north this next week. It's not going to be fixed any time soon.

ACtools_zps4a7ab02e.jpg

Here is the tool I used to remove my clutchplate.My bearing was shot but got the plate out of the way before it tore things up.

Loaned this tool to a shop nearby who put on the pulley/bearing and new plate, shimmed it and all for 1.0 hrs labor.

I could do it but this old coot's hands would be bloody and I would be in a foul mood. AGAIN!

Bolt if factory is 8mm head and 7 mm threads. There is a hole, oval in the body behind the headlight down low and matching hole in the other side of the frame which is round and hard to hit. That takes the extensions through and aims at the pulley center, seen from under the car. The alignment is off straight and thus the need for a wobble extension to get a clean take on the bolt head.

I would remove the belt and see if the bearing is still smooth and free. If it is loose or rough, needs to be replaced before it ruins the compressor.

-chart-

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The plate itself still spins without much resistance.

The compressor turns easily when the pressures are equalized.

Thus you need a bar to hold the armature plate.

ACPlateTool_zps93660346.jpg

I made this bar from aluminum and used a file for clearance.

-chart-

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