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Gdragonl

2000 ford Taurus se 3.0 V6 ,Ax4n tran., C AR STALLS WHEN BRAKE IS PRESSED

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car stalls when put in drive when stepping on brake  coming out of idle park,No check engine light comes on. have problems with this car for two months. What I have done to car is put brake booster, front disc brakes,change sparkplugs w/wires,still checking for short in wires!? I am at a Lost here any help will be appreciated !! Thanks!!

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 :WELCOME:

 

I'm going to ask a few questions, just to get a feel for the issue.

When it stalls, is it only when you put your foot on the brake, regardless of gear? Or, does it only stall once it goes into drive while your foot is on the brake?

Where do the RPMs stay at when in park? Too low of engine idle speed when shifted into drive could cause a stall. An IAC could be suspect if it's not picking up the engine speed to compensate for the added load of the transmission.

Does the car immediately re-fire after stalling? Does this condition happen every time, or is it intermittent?

I'd be curious if you could start it in neutral and then place it into drive without touching the brake and seeing if it'll go or stalls out.

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The car starts with no problem, at warmup Idle is at 8000 rpm, Car Stalls on all gears when brake is pressed,Yes car will stall when I step on brake as I put it in drive. The car will start up every time right after stall with no problem. I haven't tried to see if put it in drive from neutral with out stepping on brake but I will try that to see if it stalls and ill get back to you! this is happening all the time I can not leave the drive way, it even does it on reverse. THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY, This has really been frustrating !

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9 hours ago, Gdragonl said:

The car starts with no problem, at warmup Idle is at 8000 rpm

Hopefully you mean 800 RPM... :D That thing would be screaming if it could rev up that high in park!

 

Getting into troubleshooting, easiest thing to do to eliminate the brake booster as being a problem spot would be to disconnect the vacuum line from it and plug the vacuum line for testing. If the car doesn't have any problem with brake application then, it's possible your replacement booster is bad. Usually leaky boosters suck air, so engine idle speed fluctuates when the pedal is depressed. Haven't seen one stall an engine, though, but there's always a first time.

Now if it stalls with the booster disconnected, then there's something else going on. Could be electrical, or some other component.

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Sorry :rolleyes:Yes 800 RPMs !! It did not stall from neutral in to drive,I can start it in neutral but as soon as I step on brake it stalls But I went ahead and tried testing fuses and notice that fuse 37 and 38 does not test any voltage on either one with key on,even when I step on brake. Ill do a Booster test to see if any difference with this New booster I put on. One other thing that I noticed on New booster is that when tested before I put it on is that alittle air escaped from the pedal side by shaft that comes out from booster when I push it in by hand right after I turn off vacuum to booster is that normal?

Edited by Gdragonl

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EXCUSE my narrative of this video but this is what is happening to this car hope I can give you good info with this

2000 ford taurus problrm 2.vpj

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1 hour ago, Gdragonl said:

EXCUSE my narrative of this video but this is what is happening to this car hope I can give you good info with this

2000 ford taurus problrm 2.vpj

 

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I’ll try and watch the video when I get home. I can’t get that video file to open on mobile. 

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So I can't get that file to load on my stuff. I've not seen a *.vpj file for a video. If you're using a particular type of video editing software, I might recommend checking to see if it has an export feature to a normal video file, like *.avi, *.mp4, or something like that.

As per fuses 37 and 38, I don't know what circuit those protect.

Regarding the new booster, you may hear a little air escape, but it shouldn't be constant hissing.

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I can not seem to up load video for some reason this site is not letting me see if I can do it this evening I have to redo to 2MB

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If you need to, upload the video to YouTube or another video hosting site.

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I will try to upload it to YouTube or other site and let you know- I have raised the wheels off the ground so I can look under for loose wiring and test o2 sensers, since I did that I ran car though all gears and wanted you to see what the car does. Hopefully I can get this video uploaded soon

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I Really do appreciate the help your giving me, Thank You!!

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I uploaded short video on YouTube under GdragonLucero, 2000 Ford Taurus stalling while in gear while Brake is applied if you would like to see that one

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Interesting to see that it stalls only when you really press on the brake pedal, and not when you lightly just tap it enough to get the shift interlock to work so you can move the shifter. That eliminates my thoughts about the brake light on/off switch, if it was somehow causing trouble.

Have you tried disconnecting the booster yet and seeing if that's had an effect on if it stays running or not?

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Yes I did diconnect the brake booster vaccum and blocked vaccum hoses the car still stalls but with this brake booster test it stumble a little then dies, I have to step on brake harder before it dies but it just might be cause of no brake assist?!-I have been checking vaccum hoses and not found any air leaks, I checked ground wires and test most of them to be good, I switch relays to see if any change but nothing, so I don't know what to do from here,until I can get OBD code to come out

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I can't say I've seen a car that just plain out stalls regardless of gear selection (Park, Drive, etc...) with just mashing down the brake pedal enough. Outside of an electrical issue or mechanical issue, I'm a bit clueless.

Only electrical stuff I could consider for the brake system though would be the brake light on/off (BOO) switch under the dash and usually the fluid level sensor on the master cylinder. If you wanted to rule those out, you could disconnect them both. Just take note, you may want to place the car in neutral before disconnecting the BOO since the shift interlock should be tied to that. If you disconnect that first, you won't be able to shift out of park.

If it still stalls after all that, there may be an underlying mechanical issue that we're not seeing.

 

FWIW, not every trouble issue will set a fault code, so while diagnostic codes are helpful, we can't always be reliant on them.

Edited by Kodachrome Wolf

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I can not find wire diagram for brake circuit  if there is any way you be able to get one that would help I'll be checking Boo switch this morning with the fluid sensor and I will let you know the resaults 

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Well I finally got to do the test on brake switch car still stalled then I disconnected the master cylinder switch still stalled-, I got a different OBD2 scanner w/ live data I'm going to run that as soon I get chance to  and post the Data!

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