Front camber?

[SoNic 36]

A few year back (2-3?) I have replaced the front struts with KYB Strut Plus assemblies (spring+shock). I had new tires. The newer struts are much more stiffer than the ones that where on the car... but I can't tell if they are stiffer than a new car because I never had one.

Well, now, the inner part of front tires is worn badly. The car drives straight, so I assume it is because of camber angles. This is how the top of the towers look like - to me it seems that they are already "pushed" to the max.
Is there a solution?

[Angrod 280]

I had the same thing happen to my bull. Turned out the toe was off. Had to get it aligned and new tires.

Apparently, once tires wear in a certain pattern they will continue that way regardless of an alignment job.

[Spridget 498]

I think these cars are just prone to inner tire wear. Any part of the suspension or steering is worn, you’re gonna get inner tire wear. Even worn subframe bushings. 2-3 years is a reasonable expectation between alignments before components wear out and advance tire wear. You can drill the spot welds and cut the little tabs to allow an extra few tenths of a degree of camber adjustment. 

[SoNic 36]

Thank you all.

I agree, McPherson front suspension is a cheap, light, and prone to generate issues in long term. Although I have replaced completely the front struts (three years ago), it's still not right.

A true double wishbone style suspension is more robust in the long run.

My Hyundai cars (Sonata and XG350) and of course the Ford Explorer have the double control arms and... they just stay aligned.

 

Before I attempt any alignment, I have ordered the front lower ball joints (well, the are the only ball joints on front with McPherson), and I will have them replaced. I went Motorcraft this time, the last Chinese cheapies that I put in lasted only 3 years, they are clonking already.

Edited April 15, 2018 by SoNic

[-chart- 287]

I have 4 extra tires mounted on 7 spoke alloys. I switched out better ones on the '03 sedan for inspection yesterday. Sears did a courtesy alignment printout. All 4 corners are on the limit for negative camber. All is tight on the car, 170K miles. I like the front toe to be half turn toe in compared to specs. They drive better in my op and tire wear is not my concern. I keep 32# all the time. Outside on the tire in the pic is to the left. No idea about miles as I switch wheels between my two '03's to keep the best on the sedan. Some toe in will compensate for small excess negative camber. As for the half turn toe added, if the steering is straight, I try to take a quarter on each side. Otherwise all on the side to make the it more centered. Just my take.

On my 7th and 8th Bulls, never had to fix a camber issue.

-chart-

[SoNic 36]

The control arm bushings are shot too. So I have ordered the whole LCA's too.

[-chart- 287]

2 hours ago, SoNic said:

The control arm bushings are shot too. So I have ordered the whole LCA's too.

My experience with MOOG as in the pic. they are on top of each other, dowel to align the left, bottom aligned with a square and they you can see in the center where the MOOG rubs the sub frame, arrow and note. It rubs hard and I ordered a AC from RA and it fits like the OE. I only replaced the right side so the bad part was only one side issue. I also have a pic of the binding of the MOOG on the sub frame opening if anyone is interested.

-chart-

[SoNic 36]

Thank you all for the responses. I have replaced the LCA's (MEVOTECH "Supreme") and ball joints (Motorcraft) and did go to shop for an alignment.

Nice contrast with the rusty subframe...