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Ocelot10

List of problems to address.... (1995 SE vulcan sedan)

22 posts in this topic

  • coolant loss on heater hose lines, need to replace heater hoses
  • Cooling fan is likely worn - makes a rubbing/scraping sound when fan runs
  • the ugliest rad cap I've ever seen, rubber seal falls off every time I pull the cap
  • car creaks over every road bump - struts all still seem to have adequate damping, so I don't know what is squeeking/creaking.
  • both rear windows don't roll down, passenger side makes clicking noise, drivers' side is dead and dead-silent
  • airbag diagnostic trouble light shows code 23 (safing sensor issue?), as well as 5 consecutive airbag control module buzzes at random times
  • transmission does an ugly 2-3 shift under acceleration
  • radio antenna mount is loose
  • Headliner is sagging and ripped
  • Drivers seat has a rip in the leather of the back bolster seam
  • My air conditioner actually does work
  • This was a Texas car, so I'll need to install a block heater for Canadian climates

 

I can address the rad cap easily, but can I use generic heater hoses to replace the OEM ones? (I can't see if there was ever a by-pass line). It looks like the hose connection at the thermostat is larger than the hose connections at the heater core.

Replacement cooling fan is not a problem, I can do that myself

Where do I start looking as far as the creaks when going over bumps?

I'll save the power window issues till last.

What happens if I (theoretically) remove the airbag diagnostic bulb from the dashboard and pull the Airbag control module completely out? (does this disable anything other than the SRS system?)

I can't see addressing the transmission shift issues being of benefit now versus after it fails.

Has anyone ever done their own headliner replacement?

Upholstery shop told me 140 dollars for the seat repair - seats are actually in good shape other than this one rip.

Is there a way to install a recirculating heater on the vulcan block rather than a block heater?

 

Edited by Ocelot10

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The sqeeking that you are hearing are probably your dry/worn out  front sway bar bushings. Lift the car's front wheels off the ground then give those 2 bushings a thorough soaking of silicone spray. At best it will stop the squeeking for a long time, and you probably know the alternative. 

Edited by wendorms
Spelling.

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"the ugliest rad cap"

Get a new Motorcraft or Stant cap and make sure it is rated at 16 psi or higher. 

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hehe, a new rad cap is on order - apparently will be in tomorrow.

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"Is there a way to install a recirculating heater on the vulcan block rather than a block heater?"

I wud look in Amazon or ebay for something like that. J.C. Whitney is another good source. 

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1 minute ago, wendorms said:

"Is there a way to install a recirculating heater on the vulcan block rather than a block heater?"

I wud look in Amazon or ebay for something like that. J.C. Whitney is another good source. 

Finding one isn't a problem - I've several in a box in my Dad's garage... (we're both old "ice-road truckers").

I'm wondering if the vulcan block lends itself well to such a thing, or do I have to go the ghetto route and use T's in the lower rad hose and in the heater core line?

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"I can't see addressing the transmission shift issues being of benefit now versus after it fails."

I would have an honest (if u can find one!) trans guy take a look at it immediately. Your bull could leave you stranded for something as simple as a band adjustment and fluid/filter change!

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"  Your bull could leave you stranded ..."    :o

A situation one does not want to have in Manitoba in dead of winter. I agree with Wendorms. Get it looked at now while the car is running. (Mine crapped out one lovely Saturday morning in the spring. Cost me a fortune to replace not to mention a rental car for a few days. ) Though if the 2004 is your daily drive you wouldn't be stuck without transportation.

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Actually neither are my daily driver, the 2000 is my daughters, The 95 is my sons -it's up to me to keep them both on the road. 

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Ahh, so you're the one who gets the call at oh-dark hundred  - " Dad, my car won't start...." My second bull was a 95 and I loved it. Now I'm on my third one. 

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Yup, got that call two days ago. 

Coolant was low (heater hoses). Car was getting overly warm (noisy cooling fan).

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you can replace the rotted metal tubes/pipes with bulk coolant hose.  Replace the fan motor.

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Thanks, got the heater hose fixed by using 3/4" hose from thermostat housing connector to a 3/4 to 5/8 adapter, then I used a baby vise style tubing cutter to cut the crimp connector off the metal tube. I also replaced the radiator cap with a new one. Now that the cooling system can pressurized properly, I have a tiny radiator leak on the tank just above the drain petcock. 

I'm trying to find a fan motor now, mine is now seized up tight, front fan motor bearing carrier has its "balls" showing, and spiral metal flakes coming out of it. I'd like to find an affordable motor by itself, but it's tough to find. All the salvage yards either have a single speed motor assy or a dual fan set up.

In the meantime, the car is being put storage tomorrow. 

 

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My existing motor has this connector, and it's shaft has two flat edges that accommodate a washer/lock assembly. 

The ones on the Internet may have the same connectors but it looks like the shafts are completely round, are cross-drilled and have a shear pin driven through them. 

Edited by Ocelot10

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I can't edit the above, so here's the photos:

Plus, my existing shroud has a tab for a mounting bolt on the side as shown - my rad doesn't have tha bolt, only the one on the top....

IMG_0345.JPG

FullSizeRender.jpg

 

fan.JPG

Edited by Ocelot10

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I found out that a 1993 3.0 liter has a different fan connector than my 95 today. 

I put the 95 into storage till april, I can start looking for a few more parts at my own leisure now.

 

I'm seriously hoping I don't have a head gasket problem. (worrying about the coolant loss).

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I had a 99 with a Vulcan and the factory block heater. Never really used it. I live in S Ontario though.

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I brought home a cooling fan/shroud/motor that runs and doesn't grind - 45 dollars at a not-so local pick-a-part (huge yard, muddy, over 1000 cars inside). I needed to walk half a mile, 'cause no personal vehicles allowed. They even had a '93 in Electric Current Red with an in-tact rear bumper cover. and a blue '95 SE with "ok" discoballs.

I also got a brand-new Spectra Radiator for 100 dollars - no taxes.

Now to find out what frost plug (Casting plug, I know) to remove for the block heater. 

Hopefully no more coolant loss after this, I'm gonna scream if I have to do a head gasket or timing cover gasket - but I'm gonna re-iterate I have no visible white smoke in the exhaust and now chocolate milk in the engine oil.

Edited by Ocelot10

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RedTaurus.jpg

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I drove the 120 km to where the car is stored, dropped the new radiator and the salvaged cooling fan off and looked under the rad cap. The coolant level was right at the correct amount ( no evidence of gasses in the rad pushing the coolant out, Very unlikely I have a failed head gasket now.)

 think I'm in good shape as far as the  cooling system goes now. 

I spoke to a trusted transmission shop familier with the ax4n, he said not to bother with the pan drop/oil change as I'm describing a very likely servo issue - he can confirm it and do a filter/oil change at that time. He asked if the car has a trailer hitch, when I told him "no", he said it's very unlikely I have a completely failing transmission of the car only has 100k miles on it and it's never pulled a trailer.

Edited by Ocelot10

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It's getting to be time to pull this car out of storage, I don't have any issues doing the cooling fan/shroud now - it's a no-brainer.

However, the rad developed a leak at the end of the driving season last year, I bought a new rad (Spectre brand) and will be installing it the same time as the shroud and fan. Hopefully this is the only spot I'm still losing coolant from.

This new rad came with new barbed fittings for the trans oil coooler inlet and outlet, the old one looks like it has Ford's quick-detach fittings. I'm thinking my best bet is to buy some trans cooler hose, cut the factory quick connectors off with a hose cutter and extend them to use the barbed fittings with the new sections of hoses. I'm going to buy the hose stock, but won't be able to measure the size of hose I need. Does anyone know the OD of the stock lines so I can buy hoses and clamps to go over them?

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So I bent the in-rad trans cooler lines so badly that I couldn't use them again (and anger had a bit to do with it), so I installed an out-board aftermarket Hayden cooler and just cut the metal lines off at the transmission and plumbed it in there.

Filled it with coolant, boosted and started it and confirmed my trans oil level was ok - wasps made a nest inside the wheel-well where the fuel cap is - I got stung 6 times.

Squirels had made a nest behind the engine as well, on top of the exhaust sytem - had a small fire, put it out before any real damage occured.

Pulling the airbag control module fuse elliminated the annoying beep that accompanied the trouble code, but the dashboard light still flashes a code - I can live with that for now.

 

I just need to do the headliner, fix the two rear window motor/wiring issues so they roll up/down, repair the ripped leather seat and install a block heater.

Oh, and the A/C doesn't cool any more, I don't know if its a compressor problem, a pressure problem, an ambient temperature sensor problem or a refridgerant level problem - but that doesn't matter.

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