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Rohand901

Vulcan MTX swap FAQ

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Near as I can tell it's all good on the wiring front. I had one brown wire confused for another brown wire, but everything seems to function properly now that I've got that resolved. I need to find a floor mat or something to cover this godawful mess with. 1f29d4bacf71bc6c72d789c4f817e2f7.jpg

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Weekend Update (8/14/16)
Dear Diary,
I didn't accomplish much, its just been too brutally hot to really work hard.
My plan was to get the shifter mocked into place and rerun the exhaust around it
But after dropping the mid-pipe and looking at what I needed to do, I decided against it.
I still mocked the shifter into place, but in case I didn't have to positioning 100% perfect, I didn't want to have to remake the exhaust again once the mtx is in.
So, the exhaust will be a whole day project once the trans is in. No real way around that one.
The shifter itself wound up being pretty rusty, so I cleaned it up and had to paint it and re-grease everything. And I welded the rod to the shifter cup while I had it all apart, that's known to be a weak point.
I also swapped the resonator out for a smaller one. I'm planning on using he old resonator on the focus. 
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In keeping with the theme of rice that i've got going on, most of the "speed parts" have a lovely shade of SAFETY YELLOW, If you're dumb enough to rice a Taurus, might as well do it right.


 

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Weekend update: (8/20/16)
I'm trying to keep jamming away on this project and not loose motivation.
The Ax4n has been acting weird when it gets hot and its getting worse. The TC lockup shudder is motivation enough lmao.

Earlier this week I blew the trans apart on the bench to go over it, get new seals, and clean and inspect everything. Its 2016 and parts for these have been obsolete for at least 10 years, so if I found any significant problems, I was pretty much screwed.
I bought this trans from an SHO enthusiast and he claimed that he bought it back in the late 00's as the third replacement trans for his gen 2 SHO because it kept throwing diff pins. This trans has been "ring welded" which is just a ring of aluminum strip welded around the outside of the diff to keep the pins in. He ran it for a few hundred miles before the motor blew up and the whole car sat. I decided that I needed to at least make sure the diff was good and the synchros weren't totally smoked.

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So, I'm happy I pulled it apart, the diff is ring welded which is great news, but there was a TON of aluminum chips introduced into the fluid, as well as some nasty grime from the years of use. This trans got blown apart compeltely and I scrubbed every component of it clean. 
The last pic above was the aluminum shavings from the 5th gear idler shaft. Those were just waiting to eat the lining on a synchro.

All ready to go back together. I ordered new seals from rockauto. Only the input shaft seal and shfit shaft seals fit, the output shaft seals did not fit, those look okay, and im not really worried about it. I'm gonna try to find the right ones still.
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BAM! All put back together, just that easy!
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Stay tuned, big changes soon.

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Man, you really are cruising on through with this. Who knows, your super unrealistic time frame of having done before the meet might actually be a reality. I guess the most serious action starts when things start flying off the car and new stuff gets fitted.

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When we see pics of the subframe dropped, that's when shit gets very real. 

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Problem? Possibly me.

92feb9339a0d385f6361db1270df30b3.jpg

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22 hours ago, Rohand901 said:

Problem? Possibly me.

92feb9339a0d385f6361db1270df30b3.jpg

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#5 is low, #'s 2, 3, 4 look more or less good, #'s 1 and 6 are waaaay high. I think.

If I remember right the Vulcan should make between 150 and 180 psi. If I remember right. Regardless #5 is low and 1 and 6 are high.

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Maybe you should perform some version of a leak down test and listen for air leaking. If its just leaking past the piston rings...whatever, what would you do anyway, its a Vulcan just run it. Problem is you are putting so much time, effort, and money into that car.

Why do a compression test on a perfectly good running engine anyway?

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14 hours ago, Thub said:

Maybe you should perform some version of a leak down test and listen for air leaking. If its just leaking past the piston rings...whatever, what would you do anyway, its a Vulcan just run it. Problem is you are putting so much time, effort, and money into that car.

Why do a compression test on a perfectly good running engine anyway?

I've had a persistent random misfire on this car since I got it all those years ago. It's always missed at idle with no load (in park/neutral or with the A/C off). Recently, I got a pending cylinder 5 misfire which is the first time I've seen a problem on a specific cylinder. I did perform a leak test on both heads and had leaky intake valves on #1,#4,#3. But more concerning to me is that I'm down compression on #5. I'm gonna run it as is, until I figure out what I want to do with it. But I wanted all the info I could get, was just waiting for a 3 day weekend in case I needed to get parts ordered or ran into a big problem.

I think that If I get new valves and seats and maybe hit the cylinder bores with a ball hone and get new rings, I should be okay. But I'm not to the point of needing to do that work yet.

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Replace the coil pack, and wires. Mine would misfire exactly like your saying. The coil pack had those minor hairline cracks in it.

Sent from my XT1250 using Tapatalk

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Replace the coil pack, and wires. Mine would misfire exactly like your saying. The coil pack had those minor hairline cracks in it.

Sent from my XT1250 using Tapatalk

It got a new motorcraft coil and Taylor wires last year about 25k miles ago. Coil isn't cracked. I think it's a vac leak, but I've got through and changed every gasket above the LIM and it hasn't helped. I'm used to it. It's a Vulcan and runs like shit, kinda par for the course really. But it shuffles me lots of miles everyday so I figured I would see if it was really hurt

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That's really odd though, yah the Vulcan is kinda a rough runner to begin with but not many issues with low compression or leaking like that. Once I replaced all the ignition related components mine ran perfect, nice and smooth like it should.

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This project aint dead.

Things....

Soon....

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Oh, shit. :creeper:

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10a42538b31e241ffb43f8e8c8a90557.jpg

Just but the K&N drop in Air filter does this really gain horsepower?

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20 hours ago, Jaybrooks said:

10a42538b31e241ffb43f8e8c8a90557.jpg

Just but the K&N drop in Air filter does this really gain horsepower?

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Not sure this is the right topic for this....

But no, the drop in filter gains no power at all. To gain power you need one of their intake replacement kits which 1. do not exist for our cars and 2. require a tune to work anyway.

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I run that filter only because I can clean it every oil change and never need to buy another one ever. But no, the best way to make power with a taurus, is to sell it and buy a miata foxbody mustang

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Ermagherd spinny, clampy things

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Yes! Are those V6 SHO, Ranger or Tempo parts? 

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On 10/3/2016 at 9:07 AM, Rohand901 said:

I run that filter only because I can clean it every oil change and never need to buy another one ever. But no, the best way to make power with a taurus, is to sell it and buy a miata foxbody mustang Thunderbird Supercoupe

Fixed that for you ;)

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15 hours ago, Brian_05_SEL said:

Yes! Are those V6 SHO, Ranger or Tempo parts? 

Flywheel is a tempo, clutch kit is Gen 1 SHO. 9.25", I guess the later SHOs were 9.75", I have no idea if those fit. 

I hope this all fits on the vulcan like the internet says it does

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1 hour ago, Rohand901 said:

Flywheel is a tempo, clutch kit is Gen 1 SHO. 9.25", I guess the later SHOs were 9.75", I have no idea if those fit. 

I hope this all fits on the vulcan like the internet says it does

 

The later V6 Yamaha SHOs got an upgraded clutch because the 9.25" wasn't quite up to the task. It should be just fine for a Vulcan though. 

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2 minutes ago, Brian_05_SEL said:

 

The later V6 Yamaha SHOs got an upgraded clutch because the 9.25" wasn't quite up to the task. It should be just fine for a Vulcan though. 

Yeah its only gotta hold like 12 torques. Not worried about that, the clutch dumps to burn off my winter tires tho.......

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