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The 2002 Mercury Sa-Bley Ls


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I wonder if Chart would chime in, I recall him saying he used gasket maker on each bolt and it fixed his.

 

Also, did a ton of shopping with the Sable, now I regret it :(

 

I had a full trunk, and full back seat. Now I remember the joys of a wagon. :(

 

I will attempt to fix my 95 Wagon. I can't give up on a beautiful wagon.

PanLeak1_zpscdf4e16b.jpg

PanLeak2_zpsaf13f2cb.jpg

Took the bolts out 2 at a time and cleaned them, put silicone on them and retightened them. No more oil on the bolts BUT:

Still leaking from the front valve cover and it drips on the exhaust right about the O2. Plug one hole, another opens. Or there are a bunch of leaks on the DOHC.

Ford knows how to not leak. I am on Intech #3, dry as a bone, everywhere. All of them. No vacuum leaks, no intake gasket issues, no coolant leaks.

I have 3 Duratecs, all 3 leak the same way on oil. Here, there, everywhere.

 

-chart-

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Let's see, I have

2 Essex motors... 0 Leaks

1 Modular V8: Burns oil though valve stem seals

1 Duratec: Exxon Valdez :lol:

 

But I shall try that and see. Thanks Chart :)

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I would try a round of AutoRx and then some stop leak additive. The AutoRx will clean the gunk build up around the seals and the stop leak should help to swell the seals. High mileage oil also contains additives to swell the seals.

You may also try just snugging up the oil pan and front cover bolts. The seals squish flat over time, then heat cycles loosen the bolts.

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Not a bad idea.

 

I did more work to The Sable today.

 

I discovered this:

 

20141222_165644.jpg

 

My ICP has been replaced somewhere in its life. I wonder why... Maybe they thought the ICP was killing the blend door?

 

Either way, it goes in and out easily with my 1 DIN key I have.

 

20141222_170621.jpg

 

The end result, I now have a full fledged working cluster. No more bad bulbs.

 

20141222_175123.jpg

Not a bad layout at night.

 

So now that's one less thing on my check list. :)

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If it's leaking oil bad it mostly likely the oil pan gasket or the crank seal. Don't waste time dumping in an additive, just fix the leak and it will go away. My moms 03 Escape always pissed oil until the oil pan/gasket and crank seal was replaced. The rear valve cover also had developed a leak that stopped after I replaced the valve cover gaskets. It's been bone dry for 2 years since the oil pan and crank seal were replaced.

And Kevin your still missing 5 lights.

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Damn useless Duratecs. And I know, in the Spring I will try to add them :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

I put a remote starter into my car... What a royal pain in the ass it was...

 

Everything went smooth, except the bypass module. I went with the Bulldog Deluxe 500B, which found on ebay NIB for $49.

 

I had a Bulldog Remote starter in my Contour, then I moved it to my Taurus Wagon.

 

In the 05 Taurus I had a different brand that I did some weird stuff with and it all worked.

 

The Bulldog comes with an included bypass module, this module requires a key be left in the box. Thankfully, I have a ton of SecuriLock keys from junkyards, and I also had a blank/valet key from the dealer. They gave me a total of three. Programming the key took awhile since I can't just shove the spare PATS key in since it isn't cut for my car. That's the point, if someone ever finds and breaks the box open, it won't start my car. But the module itself, for whatever reason was being a royal pain. I google it, come to find out the instruction manual had the wrong pinouts. But after a ton of hours (Total about 4) I now can start my Sable up. No more suffering in cold weather with that horrid leather seats :D

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I put a remote starter into my car... What a royal pain in the ass it was...

Everything went smooth, except the bypass module. I went with the Bulldog Deluxe 500B, which found on ebay NIB for $49.

I had a Bulldog Remote starter in my Contour, then I moved it to my Taurus Wagon.

In the 05 Taurus I had a different brand that I did some weird stuff with and it all worked.

The Bulldog comes with an included bypass module, this module requires a key be left in the box. Thankfully, I have a ton of SecuriLock keys from junkyards, and I also had a blank/valet key from the dealer. They gave me a total of three. Programming the key took awhile since I can't just shove the spare PATS key in since it isn't cut for my car. That's the point, if someone ever finds and breaks the box open, it won't start my car. But the module itself, for whatever reason was being a royal pain. I google it, come to find out the instruction manual had the wrong pinouts. But after a ton of hours (Total about 4) I now can start my Sable up. No more suffering in cold weather with that horrid leather seats :D

What made you go with a key in box?

My RS bypass just programs like a key, with no key on board. Most of the ones I see nowadays are this style.

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What made you go with a key in box?

My RS bypass just programs like a key, with no key on board. Most of the ones I see nowadays are this style.

 

It came with the kit. The key in the box won't work any ignition or door keys though if someone can rip it down behind the cluster, and break it open. Basically only good for it's PATS Chip, and that is it. :)

 

Also did not know 2002 had steering wheel lock. My 05 had that feature cut. Now I know :P

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