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So I decided even though I've had my car for years, I'd start a build log and see how many old pictures I could find. Well, I found the first pic I took off my car, from the day after I actually bought it (I bought it at night; dumb move, I know).

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Sorry for the bad pic, but phone cameras werent nearly as good then. This was taken in Carson City, NV. At the time I lived in Gardnerville, NV, so it was a hop, skip, and a jump from where I actually bought the car.

I believe this was taken about January 06ish.

Still had clear windows.

I took delivery the night before at 41297 miles.

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Heres the tail/brake/turn: http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=170989429220&alt=web Here's the reverse: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221437420824&

->removes valve stems from Kevin's car<-:-) :-p

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/3157-switchback-led-bulb--dual-intensity-60-smd-led-tower,-a-type/1916/4478/

And here's one from March-ish 06 when I had the windows tinted:

ybusyga6.jpg

Again, sorry for the bad pic. Cameras still hadn't improved yet. Haha

3% in the back 3, 32% in the front two. The max legal shade in Douglas County where I lived at the time. Now technically illegal in Contra Costa County (actually almost all of CA) where I currently live. Only been harrassed once in 8 years of having it though.

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Phone took a swim. Lost a lot of pictures of the Sable. :wacko:

But my brake light LEDs came in today. They look good, only marginally brighter, but with the red LEDs they seem to be a truer red. Reverse LEDs should be in tomorrow. I expect those to SHINE.

My speaker baffles also came in. Put them in and definitely noticed a difference. The bass was more prominent and natural. I only ordered the rears because I have the back half of the car down to sheet metal for sound deadening anyways, and I wanted to test them before committing the fronts of my car and all of my wife's car. But after what I heard today, I'm sure I'll be ordering all of the above.

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Reverse LEDs came in. One was giving me trouble. Switched it with the other one, all is well. Took a little video with one side LEDs and one side incandescent for reference:

And a pic of the final:

aby4ubyp.jpg

Im happy with the results. Now I have to get the license plate lights converted.

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Something strange has happened.

Suddenly my remote start has stopped wroking again, but it seems to be failing the initial startup procedure. Almost as if the immobilizer bypass (the module that fools the PATS into thinking there IS a proper key in the ignition) fell out of programming. When I hit the button to start it, the electrical powers up for a brief second, then almost immediately shuts back down. Never actually cranks the motor.

Also, my cruise control stopped working. It just plain won't turn on. Ive looked in my manual and cannot find a fuse that would be the culprit. Any ideas?

Oh, and I was oh so pleased to find my pristine manual got some red grease of some sort across a few pages. Loved that, let me tell you... >_>

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Heres the remote start failure:

Remote Start Failure:

Im wondering if the remote start and cruise control issues are somehow related...?

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And now,

Adjustable pedal fail:

Wtf? Put Cruise in diagnostic mode, came back code two: BPP, broken circuit, ot brake pedal pressed. Gonna get under there and inspect. Ive read that the wires can get frayed. Ive checked fuses, brake lights, and horn. All are fine. So ill check the wires and the cruise deactivator next opportunity.

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Heres the remote start failure:

Remote Start Failure:

Im wondering if the remote start and cruise control issues are somehow related...?

Only one I had, if you touched the brakes, the engine would die. I would get in and touch the bk pedal befor getting the key in and on and it would quit.

 

-chart-

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Only one I had, if you touched the brakes, the engine would die. I would get in and touch the bk pedal befor getting the key in and on and it would quit.

-chart-

That's exactly how a properly installed remote start should work, to stop would be theives.

Now, the fact that the remote start doesnt work and is stopped by tapping the brake, and cruise control does the same, leads me to believe im having an issue with the brake pedal switch. (I ran CC diagnostics and it came up BPP problem.)

Heres the problem: my brake lights still work. What would that make you think?

I'm not positive the RS and CC are related, but im going to continue to try to diagnose the problem as if they are. It was way to coincidental they both stopped working at the same time.

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Found the culprit behind my CC and RS.

I thought the LEDs would be fine once I put in the LED compatible flasher, but it looks like I have to install a resistor anyways.

Switched the tails back to the incandescents until I get the resistors.

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What LEDs did you buy for the tails and the reverse lights?

Heres the tail/brake/turn:

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=170989429220&alt=web

Here's the reverse:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221437420824&alt=web

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(Tapatalk is giving me hell for some reason. Sorry for extra posts)

Got the LED resistors wired in. LEDs look great, and Cruise Control and Remote Start work properly. And since I had the resistors in, I swapped out the LED compatible flasher for my original factory one. The LED one was too tall and blocked the cover from latching properly, forcing me to keep it off.

But all better now!

And it looks as if Im finally going to have an opportunity to build a new enclosure for my new sub that has been sitting on my garage floor for the last month. :)

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I don't think so:

IMG_20140609_212529.jpg

Mine have a blue hue to them

Mine are about 5 shades bluer and on the complete opposite coast. Here's to hoping! haha

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Finishing up some sound deadening before the box build.

y5ery5uj.jpg

Have to suppress those vibrations. Im not what you call a "license plate rattle lover".

I can already tell the difference with this stuff. Ive have my backseat out and trunk down to sheet metal for some time. Everytime I add in a bit more sound deadening, the road noise is suppressed a little more. Noticeably. With what ive got so far, it actually sounds almost as quiet as having the backseat and all the carpets installed. :ph34r:

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Got started on the new sub box today.

7ytu2amy.jpg

ryhypase.jpg

ejypumuv.jpg

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Little bro is an artist when it comes to wood. He's got a bum knee slowing him down though, so we called it early. Try again tomorrow.

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Finally hunted down and found some rattles ive picked up since rebuilding the front end. The upper strut mounts were about 15lbs too light each, mostly because of my own lack of knowledge. Torqued them down to 35lbs and all is well.

Also found the front bolt of the driver side control arm not as tight as Id like. Torqued it down to 95lbs, and I dont hear any more rattles.

My neighbor came over and we got to chatting, so ill go over the passenger side tomorrow or Friday to make sure everything is properly torqued.

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Finally hunted down and found some rattles ive picked up since rebuilding the front end. The upper strut mounts were about 15lbs too light each, mostly because of my own lack of knowledge. Torqued them down to 35lbs and all is well.

Also found the front bolt of the driver side control arm not as tight as Id like. Torqued it down to 95lbs, and I dont hear any more rattles.

My neighbor came over and we got to chatting, so ill go over the passenger side tomorrow or Friday to make sure everything is properly torqued.

I tightened mine to feel but when I went back with a TQ wrench, they were light. Maybe my "feel" is getting light. I have 26# on the strut to body.

 

-chart-

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