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99 Sable Frontend Jumps/pulls Sideways During Shift


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This is my first post and need help. My 1999 Sable with DOHC and automatic with less than 85,000 miles seams to jump / pull sideways during an acceleration. I notice this mainly when starting out from a stop and when it goes into overdrive, it seams to pull or jump sideways enough for steering correction by me

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We currently have an 01 Cougar that does this. It has one ball joint that is EXTREMELY loose. A good place to start is to just make sure everything under the front end is still nice and tight.

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^yes, as well as all engine/trans mounts. I had an older car do that ('80s Honda Accord I think it was), turns out the engine/trans mount was so worn that the entire powertrain was shifting to one side or the other when the trans shifted.

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This is my first post and need help. My 1999 Sable with DOHC and automatic with less than 85,000 miles seams to jump / pull sideways during an acceleration. I notice this mainly when starting out from a stop and when it goes into overdrive, it seams to pull or jump sideways enough for steering correction by me

In addition to what others note.

Small loose in BJ will cause wandering, pulling, torque steer.

 

Plan do one this week with ~22K on dealer installed BJ. It just wanders at this time.

 

-chart-

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Plus 1 with what the others have said. My '96 SHO needs front ball joints and outer tie rods. It exhibits severe torque steer during acceleration and reverse torque steer when I lift off the gas pedal. A little scary when I'm driving down a bumpy narrow back road. Motor mounts and subframe bushings are new.

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^ My V-6 Tempo was bad for that. It'd pull you so hard one way during acceleration, and jerk you back the other way when you let off. I learned to anticipate and control it, but I think the engine overpowered the car's other components (motor mounts, suspension, etc. all seemed to wear prematurely compared to my 4cyl Tempos). The way I drove it (like I stole it) probably didn't help. :lol:

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My volvo does the torque steer/reverse torque steer thing because of the poorly designed control arm bushings..

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Thanks to all the help in giving things to look for and check. I will be getting a 3 day weekend here soon and will be investigating this soon.

Is there a diagram available that shows motor and trans mounts?

This has the DOHC and big heads, does this make it harder to change mounts if needed?

Since this has struts, what is the best way to check the ball joints?

Could the rack & pinion cause any of this steering / torque problem? I ask because it seams to be leaking a little oil and the boot on the drivers side is loose.

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I personally don't have experience with the Duratec in your generation Sable, so I honestly have no idea.

 

One way I've checked motor mounts before is to park the car on a level surface, put it in park and DO NOT set the parking brake (which is a good idea otherwise). Pop the hood (engine not running). Walk around to the front of the car. Position your knees on the bumper, and rock the car back and forth if you can. You can see the engine/trans moving with the car (rocking back and forth, somewhat up and down), but excessively worn motor mounts will cause much more movement than is normal. You can usually tell the difference. Some movement is normal, its to cushion you (the driver/passenger) against vibration from the engine/trans. But, there needn't be excessive movement.

My V-6 Tempo's motor mount got so bad that the engine's upper intake manifold created a wear mark on the hood's insulation pad where the engine was flexing so far up upon acceleration that it was in contact with the hood enough to create that mark. Helluva thing.

 

I'd pay just as much, if not more, attention to your ball joints and other suspension pieces as the others suggested. It's more important that they function correctly. A worn engine mount is annoying usually, but won't really cause you to lose control like a failed ball joint, tie rod, or other major suspension/steering component.

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I personally don't have experience with the Duratec in your generation Sable, so I honestly have no idea.

 

One way I've checked motor mounts before is to park the car on a level surface, put it in park and DO NOT set the parking brake (which is a good idea otherwise). Pop the hood (engine not running). Walk around to the front of the car. Position your knees on the bumper, and rock the car back and forth if you can. You can see the engine/trans moving with the car (rocking back and forth, somewhat up and down), but excessively worn motor mounts will cause much more movement than is normal. You can usually tell the difference. Some movement is normal, its to cushion you (the driver/passenger) against vibration from the engine/trans. But, there needn't be excessive movement.

My V-6 Tempo's motor mount got so bad that the engine's upper intake manifold created a wear mark on the hood's insulation pad where the engine was flexing so far up upon acceleration that it was in contact with the hood enough to create that mark. Helluva thing.

 

I'd pay just as much, if not more, attention to your ball joints and other suspension pieces as the others suggested. It's more important that they function correctly. A worn engine mount is annoying usually, but won't really cause you to lose control like a failed ball joint, tie rod, or other major suspension/steering component.

 

I've seen older Audi A4s where the motor mounts got so bad the engine jumped and smashed the hood, putting a massive dent in it.

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