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AKeternal

Quick An Easy Ball Joint...

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Hey guys, so the lower driver side ball joint on my bull has been progressively been getting worse and worse, and it's to the point of being to shift the tire back and forth with it airborne, causing my toe to be thrown out, and causing the front end to drop down.

 

To do the lower driver side most shops want between $250-$300, and I don't have that kindv'e money at the moment. So I picked up a ball joint from Autozone, $30, full metal construction. And I'd like to do it myself, but I don't have a garage so I'll be doing it outside the parts store in the parking lot much like everything else I do to it.

 

Through research I've found to get the ball joint out I have to pull the cv-axle out of the steering knuckle because it's in the way, but I'd like to know some opinions on weather I can get the cv-axle out and press out the ball joint without removing the entire knuckle from the car. Like If I can just back the cv-axle out of the knuckle and get it out of the way, then go from there pressing up the ball joint. Any tips or info would be greatly appreciated, because it's making it very unsafe on the hwy. I drive about 50 miles a day for work alone, so it's quite a priority.

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I imagine it will be quite difficult to push the CV axle out of the knuckle considering the condition. It's hard enough where I live (TX). A little bit of rust and corrosion glues the CV into the hub. Same goes for the ball joint.

 

I plan to replace the ball joints in my '96 SHO soon enough and I don't plan to completely disassemble to front suspension. I think it can be done like this:

 

back off the strut mount nuts to the last thread.

remove a bolt from the lower control arm (can remember if it's fore or aft bolt off the top of my head) to allow the knuckle and strut enough room to pull away from the CV axle.

remove the cir-clip from the ball joint and beat out the old joint with a BFH.

 

I will certainly require plenty of penetrating oil and possibly some heat. I always apply anti-seize to the splines of the CV axle to make disassembly easier.

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I recently did mine, and there was definitely no way to get the ball joint out of the knuckle without removing the knuckle. The press that you can rent from AZ had to go through the strut hole in order to properly push the ball joint out. And for what it's worth, removing the rear bolt from the LCA gave me plenty of room to remove the knuckle. If you put an open end wrench on the front side of that rear bolt and pin it against something, then a series of (18" or more) extensions and a U joint on a socket wrench for the back side, it's actually not too bad.

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I recently did mine, and there was definitely no way to get the ball joint out of the knuckle without removing the knuckle. The press that you can rent from AZ had to go through the strut hole in order to properly push the ball joint out. And for what it's worth, removing the rear bolt from the LCA gave me plenty of room to remove the knuckle. If you put an open end wrench on the front side of that rear bolt and pin it against something, then a series of (18" or more) extensions and a U joint on a socket wrench for the back side, it's actually not too bad.

Since I re-did the sub frame bolts, I will use them next time and lower the sub a bit. Easy with elect impact.

 

-chart-

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Well, I'm tackling the project tomorrow morning, wish me luck.

 

Also keep in mind, that my struts are mounted 2" lower on the body of the car than stock, like to get my car up off the tires I have to use pallets under my jack to get the height I need, so that extra play at full extension will hopefully make it easier to get my CV-axle out of the knuckle. Then hopefully I can get the joint out without removing the entire knuckle, because as I said, I'll be doing this in a parking lot, thankfully it was like 50 out today, so it'll likely be warm tomorrow as well.

I'll post the process on here when i get it done, might replace the CV-axle too while it's disassembled. Then if it proves easy enough to do, I'll do the other side for even wear life.

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So, I got it taken care of. And I DID have to remove the entire knuckle to be able to do it.

 

After removing the Axle Nut, Tire, and Caliper/Rotor.

Unbolted the Tire-Rod End, Lower Strut Pinch Bolt.

Then using a McPherson Spring/Strut Compressor, I was able to pull the bottom of the Strut out of the Steering Knuckle, then remove the Steering Knuckle from the Lower Control Arm.

Then pulling the CV-Axle from the Steering Knuckle I was able to pull the entire Steering Knuckle from the car.

Autozone has a ball joint press tool specifically for the Taurus, so pressing the old one out and new one in was quite easy.

Then of course reassembly is the reverse.

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