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I do not usually drive my '03 but did today. Daughter drives every day to work.

Sable LS '03.

OK key in, first position nothing, second pos ign, third pos start. I believe that is the way is supposed to be.

No acc position. Key does not go that way.

 

No harm, just can't use acc.

 

Any ideas?

 

-chart-

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What happens if you put it in and turn it backwards to lock? Will it do that? I remember in my 2000 if I did that it worked as ACC. In just ACC nothing happened. At least thats what I think it was.

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What happens if you put it in and turn it backwards to lock? Will it do that? I remember in my 2000 if I did that it worked as ACC. In just ACC nothing happened. At least thats what I think it was.

Put key in, turn it ccw, and it moves a bit but not nearly far enough, then it does not move any further.

 

-chart-

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I've had issues with that on all Fords, but it was worst on my F-250.

 

Sometimes I tried to put the key in backwards, that can help.

 

On the F-250 the issue was that the OEM Ford key was just too worn down after 16 years of use. I had a copy made of a copy I'd had, both the copy and the copy of the copy went into ACC with no issue.

 

I prefer Honda's way. POS1, ACC. POS2, Run, POS3, Start.

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I've had issues with that on all Fords, but it was worst on my F-250.

 

Sometimes I tried to put the key in backwards, that can help.

 

On the F-250 the issue was that the OEM Ford key was just too worn down after 16 years of use. I had a copy made of a copy I'd had, both the copy and the copy of the copy went into ACC with no issue.

 

I prefer Honda's way. POS1, ACC. POS2, Run, POS3, Start.

 

Those older Ford style ignitions with the little button to release the key can be kinda tricky.  Especially for those who have never used one before.

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  • 1 month later...

Chart, that's a common situation with both the Ford 10-cut (1986-1996) and eight-cut (1996/97 to present) ignition locks. They're both sidebar designs, very susceptible to worn keys and worn wafers in the locks as well. Lube the lock liberally with TriFlo or WD-40 - no graphite! - and have a locksmith cut a key back to original specs if necessary.

 

If the key is off depth-wise by even .006"  (normal wear for a ten-year-old brass or nickel-plated brass key) the sidebar will allow rotation forward since that's the normal direction of rotation. Few people use the ACC position often enough to wear in the sidebar in the opposite direction, though, so when the key does wear the sidebar sticks up too high to allow rotation CCW. It's a common repair I do in the shop. Either design of lock can be removed and disassembled, and the sidebar gently filed to take down the higher edge on the CCW side.

Edited by Lgbpop
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I once encountered an ignition lock in a '76 Ford pickup (pin tumbler) where one of the cuts on the key was worn down by .020" - one full cut depth. You could just barely get the lock to turn by jiggling the key just right. Had the local locksmith cut a new key to the original depths.

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I prefer Honda's way. POS1, ACC. POS2, Run, POS3, Start.

 

Escort was that way too ;)

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Chart, that's a common situation with both the Ford 10-cut (1986-1996) and eight-cut (1996/97 to present) ignition locks. They're both sidebar designs, very susceptible to worn keys and worn wafers in the locks as well. Lube the lock liberally with TriFlo or WD-40 - no graphite! - and have a locksmith cut a key back to original specs if necessary.

 

If the key is off depth-wise by even .006"  (normal wear for a ten-year-old brass or nickel-plated brass key) the sidebar will allow rotation forward since that's the normal direction of rotation. Few people use the ACC position often enough to wear in the sidebar in the opposite direction, though, so when the key does wear the sidebar sticks up too high to allow rotation CCW. It's a common repair I do in the shop. Either design of lock can be removed and disassembled, and the sidebar gently filed to take down the higher edge on the CCW side.

Thanks for the input. Since I have a new key that is not used, maybe I should try the new key. Daughter has the old key and I have the new one cut by Ford as the car had only one key when I bought it 3 years ago. She drives the car all the time and my new key is hanging on our rack in case she looses the key. (again) She lost the key to my '01 and I had a new one cut and programmed by Ford. Then she found the key and fob, and it had been in a pocket and just run through the washer and dryer. Key and fob still worked, so I have 3 for my '01 Wagon.

 

-chart-

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  • 7 years later...
On 11/13/2021 at 6:36 AM, MarshChirshtian said:

Try fixing the problem by using the internet and if it doesn't work then contact an auto for help.

Nice necrothread

 

Also, what an awful reply.

"Use the internet" -> We're already here on the internet

"Contact an auto locksmith" -> Plugs a very city/region specific locksmith webpage; just a wee bit like spam there

 

Welcome to the forum, hopefully your experience is more up hill from here.

Edited by TaurusKev
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Yeah.... First post, get a locksmith? Banned. 

  • Haha 1
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