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OK, so for 3 days I've been beating on my steering knuckle on my 03 sable per 1a autos YouTube video:

I've got the sway bar, steering rod, brake caliper and rotor all disconnected, as well as all the things mentioned in the above video.

I've also got the ball joint loose, but couldn't actually get it out for the same reason I can't lift the strut out: the control arm is bottoming out before it comes loose.

The damage done: beating marks on top of the steering knuckle, lower strut tab bent to all hell from trying to pry it out, and I tore the rubber seal on the ball joint.

The only thing I can think is that the control arm is bent up, which is possible from a rookie tow truck driver several years ago, although the car drives and aligns straight.

Any ideas?

Also, if anything I've said rhymes with "replace", don't hesitate to say so. I don't want to have to pull this apart again. Thanks guys!

post-3342-13899772871359_thumb.jpgpost-3342-13899773108747_thumb.jpgpost-3342-13899773378061_thumb.jpgpost-3342-13899773595846_thumb.jpg

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To get the ball joint out of the LCA, you place a sturdy long bar through the hole in the control arm and stand on the bar to get the arm lower. Then, an assistant guides the strut assembly out. This, of course, can be very dangerous. Make sure the car is secure, and don't do it if you are not sure it is safe.

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OK, so for 3 days I've been beating on my steering knuckle on my 03 sable per 1a autos YouTube video:

I've got the sway bar, steering rod, brake caliper and rotor all disconnected, as well as all the things mentioned in the above video.

I've also got the ball joint loose, but couldn't actually get it out for the same reason I can't lift the strut out: the control arm is bottoming out before it comes loose.

The damage done: beating marks on top of the steering knuckle, lower strut tab bent to all hell from trying to pry it out, and I tore the rubber seal on the ball joint.

The only thing I can think is that the control arm is bent up, which is possible from a rookie tow truck driver several years ago, although the car drives and aligns straight.

Any ideas?

Also, if anything I've said rhymes with "replace", don't hesitate to say so. I don't want to have to pull this apart again. Thanks guys!

attachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1389977284314.jpgattachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1389977308449.jpgattachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1389977335247.jpgattachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1389977356152.jpg

 I have pryed the LCA down with a length of pipe, maybe 3/4" iron pipe and by far the best way though is to loosen the sub frame bolts and drop the sub down about inch. You can take one out and put it back and do 2 turns of engagement of threads to hold it. Then do the other one same thing. Good time to check the bolts for rust and may need to replace them.

 

-chart-

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By the way, dropping the sub frame a bit is not my idea, but has been discussed on this forum a bunch.

One of many things I have learned here.

First time I did it on my '01 found the front bolt really bad shape from rust.

 

-chart-

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Thanks for the tips guys! I've been scouring the forums trying g to find any info I can, and I stumbled across a post that said very specifically NOT to break the seal on the ball joint. From the pics above, you can see the tear I put in the existing Bj. Its all the way through, I can see metal through the hole (not so much in that particular pic). Do I need to replace that? I don't live anywhere near the rust belt out here in California.

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Go to AutoZone or the like and buy some polyurethane Energy Suspension tie rod end boots.  They are red.  Pop the joint from the lower control arm, put the sleeve overtop and refill with grease if needed, then reinsert and reinstall.

 

Ball joints are still good and tight right?

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Once you pop ball joint out of lower control arm, you just slide it over the existing boot.  Drop the ball joints back into the lower control arm.

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Update:

I decided it would be easier to pull the rear bolt from the LCA. qu4y4ave.jpg Once that bolt was out, I was actually able to remove the strut completely by hand. No hammers, no pry bars. Piece of cake. And as for the BJs, those polyurethane sleeves worked perfect!ry6ube8a.jpg Thank you!

BTW bull geek, how did you figure that one out?

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StrutLin3_zps78131668.jpg

 

-IN my case '03 shown here, rear LCA bolt is out but I put a small wire through the holes as the rear wanted to come way out and I was afraid it would pull the inner CV joint out too far. Still needed a pipe to get the last clearance.

 

And as I remember, on old '98 last time I had a ball joint out I had a puller and could not pull it. Hammering no help. Had to use tourch and heat the steel LCA with the puller on it.

 

-chart-

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Good call on the wire, chart. I noticed mine was stretched, but it never seemed to actually detach. I'll try that on the other side.

Not lebeled in my pic is the safety. Arrow to the tire with a "2 peice of wood on it for easy safety support.

As I remember getting the nut off the LCA was a pain, and getting it out of the hole also.

Next time I'll do the sub frame drop.

 

Not sure how on U-Tube they get the spindle off the strut so easy, and any one I have done are needing big pry bar pipe.

 

Of course everything is easy on TV.

 

-chart-

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OK, so for 3 days I've been beating on my steering knuckle on my 03 sable per 1a autos YouTube video:

I've got the sway bar, steering rod, brake caliper and rotor all disconnected, as well as all the things mentioned in the above video.

I've also got the ball joint loose, but couldn't actually get it out for the same reason I can't lift the strut out: the control arm is bottoming out before it comes loose.

The damage done: beating marks on top of the steering knuckle, lower strut tab bent to all hell from trying to pry it out, and I tore the rubber seal on the ball joint.

The only thing I can think is that the control arm is bent up, which is possible from a rookie tow truck driver several years ago, although the car drives and aligns straight.

Any ideas?

Also, if anything I've said rhymes with "replace", don't hesitate to say so. I don't want to have to pull this apart again. Thanks guys!

attachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1389977284314.jpgattachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1389977308449.jpgattachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1389977335247.jpgattachicon.gifuploadfromtaptalk1389977356152.jpg

 

My observations.

I have never seen OEM spring rusty. They are plastic coated.

I have done a few strut remove from spindle, never had one come off that easy.

I always remove the tie rod end, it is usually quite easy and gives more room.

And what if they lowered the sub frame a bit and did not tell, just to make it look easy.

 

Just sayin.

 

-chart-

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Slowed down. I learned a hard lesson in smacking the bottom of a ball joint. Threads mushroomed and now the nut is stuck on there. Then I found the tie rods were bad, so I just decided with 159,xxx mi, and a minimum goal of 250,xxx, that I would replace everything. Ball joints are on the way. In talks with MOOG due to some part number changes to get bushings, end links, and inner/outer tie rod ends.

I've been quietly embarrassed over the ball joint.... Haha

On the plus side, I pulled the LCA rear bolt using a box wrench on the nut side pinned into the wheel well, and an 8" extension/u joint on my socket for the bolt side. Came out piece of cake. Then the strut came out entirely by hand. No pounding, no prying. I will definitely repeat this procedure on the other side once I get all my parts in.

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Good job. Don't feel to bad. I have damaged worse. Next time you need to pound on a threaded fastener. Move the castle nut to the end so it takes the brunt of the impact. 

Edited by thesavo
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Slowed down. I learned a hard lesson in smacking the bottom of a ball joint. Threads mushroomed and now the nut is stuck on there. Then I found the tie rods were bad, so I just decided with 159,xxx mi, and a minimum goal of 250,xxx, that I would replace everything. Ball joints are on the way. In talks with MOOG due to some part number changes to get bushings, end links, and inner/outer tie rod ends.

I've been quietly embarrassed over the ball joint.... Haha

On the plus side, I pulled the LCA rear bolt using a box wrench on the nut side pinned into the wheel well, and an 8" extension/u joint on my socket for the bolt side. Came out piece of cake. Then the strut came out entirely by hand. No pounding, no prying. I will definitely repeat this procedure on the other side once I get all my parts in.

StrutLin1_zps7ddd14bc.jpg

I've done this 4 times this Summer. Not too hard but I hit the spindle by the tie rod end and they all popped off. One before I hit it.

Howevr, if I was going to hit any bolt with a hammer on the end, I would remove the castle nut and put it on backwards and flush for a better hit area.

Hardened bolts like the pinch bolt that is pointed is ok for mild tapping.

 

 

-chart-

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See post 54 here for other tips.

 

http://www.taurusowners.com/topic/3717-charts-tips/page-3

 

For what it is worth, ball joint and tie rod end shafts are not hard. In a wreck they are designed to bend and not break.

Cutting one off is not hard, common seen at the JY. Someone needs the spindle, just cut the BJ stud at the LCA.

Not my idea, just observing what others have done.

Sharing with the team.

 

-chart-

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Hey guys, tell me bushings are an utter nightmare...?

I just ordered new LCA preloaded with bushings because I've always heard bushings suck.

Did I waste my money?

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Hey guys, tell me bushings are an utter nightmare...?

I just ordered new LCA preloaded with bushings because I've always heard bushings suck.

Did I waste my money?

I have never replaced one, never had a reason. (7 Taurus/Sable all bought used, all but present one to my 2 daughters).

And those seem to come home for maint. That's what dads are for.

Ford garage replaced one on my daughter's '98 but it did not fix the problem.

It was the sway bar link which they did after the LCA did not fix the issue.

Dumb on their part, not to notice.

After market warrenty.

 

-chart-

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I had the LCA bushings replaced on my car, the shop pressed new ones on though. It kinda depends I guess, for some vehicles it is just easier to replace the LCA.

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Alright, sorry for the absence, but SAS is officially gone!

zy2e2e4u.jpg

However, once I set got it on the ground, as soon as I pulled out of the driveway there was a clunk. It's in the rear. I checked around the forum, and the most common answer seems to be end links. But I put 4 new end links in. All Moog.

Any ideas?

Edit: just found end link loose. I'll let you know if it is the problem.

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