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Jeff

Marilyn: Jeffs 2009 Sable Premier

188 posts in this topic

I know how to do Chrysler products Munroney labels.  Haven't looked into GM since GM is junk.

 

Maybe Ford did better with 05-09s? who knows.

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Here Gen 5s are much better than Gen 4 and down, but still... they are starting to get attacked. Next time I can, I will snap a picture of the rust on these. Door bottoms and wheel wells.

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Maybe the Gen 7 will have aluminum construction.

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I will have to get a picture of my coworkers 500. The rust has already been repaired once (doors, quarters, rockers, and rear wheel arches) and it has come back pretty badly on one of the rear wheel arches now.

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Nice car, hopefully you don't have as many issues as Sam's does!

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I was pretty confident I had a good car when I drove it home on the 500 mile journey.  It has it's needs, but they are minor.  So far, I'm really pleased with it.  The inner dog legs seemed solid.(I really had my hand up in there and they were still good and smooth.  The inner front fenders are also corrosion free so far as I can tell.  Even the steering components still have all their original coatings and are not rusty  The only rust I found was on the strut cartridge welds....they were a tad rusty, but nothing bad enough to be concerned about.  I think this one will be a good one.  I know it was serviced by the book by the original owner(it was a rental car for 10 months 19K miles).  The private owner I'm not so sure about, but they have spent some money on it because the front swaybar links are new(er) Moog brand aftermarket and it's last oil change was due in November when it was traded in per the Jiffy Lube window sticker.  The OLM said it still had 23% when I changed it.  I've never been much on those OLM systems.  I do it every 3K whether it needs it or not.  I might do 4K mile OCI's now that I don't have a Toyota engine with strict strict service intervals.  Also,  these cars are good value for money(if you plan to keep them).  I don't know where I would find a car with all the options this one has for as little money as this one was.  These are Cadillac options for a Chevy Aveo price.  It's got a good driveline and that's the most important part.  Plus, this one doesn't have the navigation non-sense that can break.  Good ole radio w/Sync and Satellite radio.  I don't need all that tech.  As I told Brian,  I rarely drive with the radio turned up.  If it's even on...it's turned down very low.  I listen to the car and the road(or lack thereof) when I drive.  

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Does yours have the rear sun shade? I want that in mine but can't find it for a decent price...or find it at all!

 

I go every 5k between changes on mine. Blackstone likes that interval after looking at my oil. Ford says go every 7500, but thats too long IMO. 5k is perfect on the 5w-20 motor craft semi-synthetic. 

 

Make sure you stay with 5w-20 though and don't change oil weights.

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I've never heard of a navigation system breaking.

4,500-5,000 seems like a good interval.

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I put 5w30 in.....I have a stockpile of it.  Brian and I seemed to think it wouldn't hurt it any.  So far, it's not making any wierd noises, etc.  My understanding was the 5w20 weight is for fuel mileage purposes only.  I did some research on it pretty extensively before putting it in.  Read many Ford boards across the web.  

 

Jeff

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NO bad idea. BAD IDEA! Okay you'll live but DO NOT DO IT AGAIN!

 

It will screw up your VCT. Those tiny capillaries in the cam phasers are based on oil pressure how they activate. SO the PCM expects 5w-20 oil and gets 5w-30 and the VCT doesn't act correctly because of the increased viscosity.

 

I would pull it out and put 5w-20 in so you don't do any damage. Whats the build date of your car? If it's late enough its less likely to cause issues but the earlier build ones had big cam phaser problems. Mine had it fixed already luckily by the PO under warranty.

 

So you'll likely not break anything but it will lower efficiency and power due to the cam phasers not working correctly and VCT not working correctly. May cause a noticeable misfire at cold idle (or stumbling that feels like a misfire).

 

Just a heads up...

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5W-30 is fine.  Rock n roll.

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Build date is March 2009.  I also think I may have scored a set of 16K mile Kumho Solus KR21 take off's for cheap.  We will see where that deal goes....

 

Jeff

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Okay good so you're past the time of cam phaser problems!

 

I would stick with 5w-20 from here on out though.

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5W20 is brown water. No.

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You don't understand how the cam phasers are designed then! May cause long term damage to the motor.... At least lowers efficiently quite a bit. So many of these are going 200k+ on 5w-20 with no issues

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5W-20 is fine. My car survived on it for 127,000 miles, and I'm thinking of going back to it on the next change. For finely crafted precision-designed engines, it's fine.

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Well see the 3.5L Cyclone motor was ENGINEERED to run on 5w-20. I mean I'm sure running 5w-30 short term (5k miles) won't do much damage but it will shorten the life of the VCT components and lower efficiency over time. Also increase emissions... I just vote you go to 5w-20 on your next oil change personally.

 

Now on my 2000 Duratec that was ENGINEERED to be run on 5w-30, it made sense not to listen to Ford/CAFE and put 5w-30 in. I say put the oil in the motor that it was designed to take. Except in extreme circumstances like when you live in super cold climates that 0w-20/30 may be a better alternative.

 

Brian, 5w-20 is NOT just brown colored water. Remember, viscosity is just one part of the equation for lubrication. These are very complex things and engineers are these brilliant guys who figured all this out and decide whats best for each application.

 

Which oil gets you better pressure further away from the pump? 5W20 or 5W30?

 

5W20.... it is thinner so there is less pressure drop through small passages AKA cam phasers....and better flow...

 

YES when CAFE was released many motors went down to 5w-20. There is NO WAY the engineers would have recommended 5w-20 if it would do damage to the motor............ One last thing. It's important to change oil enough and always change the filter on a motor with cam phasers because debris can clog the VCT capillaries. It's more likely to cause issues if there is debris in the oil system with the higher weight oil.

Edited by breeves002
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My friend with the S40 runs full synthetic 5W30 on his VVT/VCT motor. I believe Volvo specifies a wide range of 30 weight oils based on climate.  I would imagine that motor needs the 30 weight oil to handle the heat from the turbo, a lighter oil would probably break down too fast and clog the motor up. The fact that it is a turbo motor was another reason he switched it to full synthetic as soon as he got it. He can go 7000 miles and the oil still comes out gold like you poured it from the bottle.

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My friend with the S40 runs full synthetic 5W30 on his VVT/VCT motor. I believe Volvo specifies a wide range of 30 weight oils based on climate. I would imagine that motor needs the 30 weight oil to handle the heat from the turbo, a lighter oil would probably break down too fast and clog the motor up. The fact that it is a turbo motor was another reason he switched it to full synthetic as soon as he got it. He can go 7000 miles and the oil still comes out gold like you poured it from the bottle.

But that motor is designed for 30 weight:) different applications, different designs, different engineering, different programming = different weight oils.

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All this talk of messing something up scared me.....so.....I changed the oil back to 5w20.  I used Castrol Syntec Blend 5w20 in the silver/grey bottle along with a PL22500 Purolator Pure One filter.  It "might" be my imagination, but the car sounds quieter than with the 5w30.  On acceleration it "seemed" louder using 5w30.  Probably just my imagination.  Also,  I gave it it's first wash today since the trip back from Chicago!  I buffed the rear bumper using a medium cut pad and Meguiars medium cut buffing compound.  I managed to clean it up pretty decent, but it will need to see a paint shop to get it looking perfect again.  I may elect to have the bumper resprayed sometime in spring or summer, but I'm not too sure if I'll even worry about it or not.  I did get the ugly yellow paint transfer off of the RH corner of the bumper cover though....luckily no paint damage underneath.   Also,  I've got my eyes on some rims to replace the entire chrome set that are on the car now since my current two front ones are rashed up pretty badly.   I've also purchased a nice set of  225/55/R18 Kumho Solus KR21 tires that were taken off a buddy's 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe @ 16K miles to replace the mismatch set of Pirelli and Sumitomos that are on the car now.  I will probably hold off on mounting them and have them mounted to the new wheels once they are received.  So far,  I'm REALLY liking this big car.  It turned 51000 miles this morning just before the oil change.

 

Jeff

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I sure love mine :)

 

I'm happy that you like yours!!

 

What wheels???

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Took the mudflaps off.....

post-1374-0-27937200-1390706847_thumb.jp

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Looks good, I always preferred the gen 5 Sable over the Taurus, same with the Montego over the Five Hundred. The excellent Milan design language played well to the D3's shape, I think it could've been done with a little more flair, but it still looks good. Really makes me wish Ford had given Mercury another try. Another topic for another day.

 

You need to update your car(s) in your profile. ;) Still just the '92 listed.

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You need to update your car(s) in your profile. ;) Still just the '92 listed.

Look at his signature.

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I called LKQ about finding two replacement rims....none to be had. I guess I'm going to have to give up trying to keep the stock wheels as much as I hate to... Tuesday or Wednesday I'm going to remove the sway bar links just to make sure those aren't the culprit instead of the strut mount. We'll see.

Jeff

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