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167 posts in this topic

I can point to where the head gasket will be blown...right in the middle where the coolant port and exhaust header are closest together. Its like magic.

 

Its time to take out the top end of the motor, with OHV its not *that* difficult unless you plan on pulling the block to have it decked...

 

Once you have found the PS fluid leak, use Mercon III instead of PS fluid, its thicker and just works better. Essex heads (and complete engines) are easy enough to find if its a cost/return situation.

I thought the left exhaust header looked a bit damp but I couldn't tell with the lousy flashlight I was using at the time. If it was ejecting coolant out, it would have explain the steam from under the hood.

 

I would have taken apart the engine awhile ago, but my mechanical expertise seems to run awry when it has come to re-assembly. Lets just say I tried to replace my Marquis' intake manifold after the coolant passage ruptured. Bad idea, but the story is fun to tell looking back at it.

 

I'll load up the P/S pump and see if I can find the seepage on my day off this week and run the car for a bit to see if it leaks out anywhere in particular. Maybe the seals just haven't enjoyed sitting for as long as they do with no activity.

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Duratec can't do this.

 

mmfp_0609_shoot_13_z%2Bturbo_coupes_vs_s

 

 

No. The Duratec prefers twin-turbocharging. ;)

 

125360_Engine_Web.jpg

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Duratec can't do this.

 

mmfp_0609_shoot_13_z%2Bturbo_coupes_vs_s

 

No. The Duratec prefers twin-turbocharging. ;)

 

125360_Engine_Web.jpg

 

Its hell to fit the components to make a taurus-SC swap, and the early gen taurus is far from an ideal candidate for a duratec... its a lose/lose situation for someone who can't reassemble a 4.6 intake, don't you think :)

 

In other words, there's no reason you can't both be wrong.

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3-0_supercharger.JPG

 

Maybe a supercharged vulcan swap with massive hood scoop would work better? :nutkick:

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3-0_supercharger.JPG

 

Maybe a supercharged vulcan swap with massive hood scoop would work better? :nutkick:

:boink:

Quit posting engine porn.

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Its hell to fit the components to make a taurus-SC swap, and the early gen taurus is far from an ideal candidate for a duratec... its a lose/lose situation for someone who can't reassemble a 4.6 intake, don't you think :)

 

In other words, there's no reason you can't both be wrong.

It probably doesn't help that the friend that was assisting usually only worked on a 4-cylinder Honda and had a bad torque wrench. The bolts were a bit too tight to say the least.

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It probably doesn't help that the friend that was assisting usually only worked on a 4-cylinder Honda and had a bad torque wrench. The bolts were a bit too tight to say the least.

 

I have a new-in-the-box torque wrench and I don't do hondas.

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I have a new-in-the-box torque wrench and I don't do hondas.

TroqueWrench_zps080d259f.jpg

 

All that I need, 0-100 and 0-200. '100" perfect for wheel lugs.

 

I dislike snap action. Most people misuse them and over torque. I watch them, pull them to snap so fast it goes by and does more than the setting.

 

Old school beam wrenches require some vision, but they stay calibrated unles abused. Then it is obvious.

I have had the smaller one since high school, and the larger one, I walked up the street couple houses when they had professional garage sale on end of the day get rid of what is left. Think I gave $1 for it but do not remember, no more thant $2. Guess no one else cared about "old school". It ain't broke, no need to fix it with new maybe accarute stuff.

 

 

-chart-

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I just go to my buddy and borrow his $500 Snap On.  Its Electronic so you can swap between ft-lbs, NM, and degrees.  It's honestly the best type of torque wrench if you have the money and care for your tools.

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I just go to my buddy and borrow his $500 Snap On.  Its Electronic so you can swap between ft-lbs, NM, and degrees.  It's honestly the best type of torque wrench if you have the money and care for your tools.

For that price, it should talk to you in 12 languages.

And say, "pull slow and steady until I say "STOP'.

 

-chart-

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For that price, it should talk to you in 12 languages.

And say, "pull slow and steady until I say "STOP'.

 

-chart-

It's Snap On, the best quality tool that you can buy. It reads out what torque you are currently at and then begins to beep when you achieve your set torque.

 

Any time I am doing work on the car I go to him, partly for help, and partly to use his high end tools.

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Mine is a click type, which is my preference. 1/2 inch drive.

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Well the diagnosis is bad at this point after doing a check on Friday. The power steering pump started immediately losing fluid towards the bottom and has bad air contamination which foamed up all of the fluid and as of today, there is nothing left in the power steering reservoir, except for a shimmer of what little is left, and it is not enough to get assist under any speed.

tz96.jpg

 

I really didn't expect anything other than the head gasket to be a target issue in the engine bay, but this has done the car in. I'm looking at nearly $1,500 in expenses now to fix engine accessory issues and there is no recovery zone if I decided to sell the car in running condition. It hurts to say I have to stop, but if I go any further, it will just be a deeper money pit that I won't dig out of so well. I don't want to wind up fixing something that I know may self destruct another part soon after throwing money at it.

 

HOWEVER, I'm not just going to throw the thing away, I can't bring myself to do that right now, so I will be posting up the WHOLE CAR for sale exclusively to Taurus Forum members for about two weeks (under scrap value since it could be a test mule if you wanted it that way or for parts) and if nothing bites, I'll be parting it out myself for anyone who needs usable parts for first generation model cars.

 

I'm sorry to anyone who expected fruition of the project. Like myself, I expected to see the car in a drivable state after taking a bullet at the expense of the head gasket, but more problems keep popping up and would make this a very expensive waste should something else decide to stop working.

 

 

 

For Sale Ad here: http://www.taurusowners.com/topic/4992-89-sable-wagon-whole-car/

Edited by Kodachrome Wolf

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Okay, let's get re-tracked.

 

Good news, I've suspended the sale.

 

Better news, it's not getting parted or scrapped.

 

The great news, I've priced up full head gasket kits I will probably be ordering a Victor Reinz set (similar to this but with all necessary new bolts: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2651988&cc=1203567) from RockAuto and attempting to hunt down a set a re-manufactured/rebuilt heads for the FWD Essex. Bull Geek has graciously offered his time and garage space to help me out with this, so it will be making its largest move in due time from Georgia to South Carolina (on a trailer of course!) to hopefully be brought back from the brink.

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I've never done head gaskets - so it'll be a good learning experience for both of us. Don't buy any parts until we disassemble - just incase there's something wrong with the block.

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Nick, doing head gaskets isn't that hard :)

 

Done it before on other cars. It's just getting things off in the proper order that sucks.

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Oh ya.

I'm confident I/we can do it. Just putting the disclaimer out that I've never done them before. But I've done plenty of other jobs around there/to that level.

I have three cars ahead of the Sable to finish up - 87,97, and 00. Luckily with garage and heat we I'll be good.

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Back in the day, when lots of these were being done, some people, replaced one head gasket only,  and did not remove the intake. Sounds wacky but my mother's '92 was done that way.

 

Not on anything I am doing is that kind of shortcut being done.

 

-chart-

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Good plan, the Victor Reinz kit should seal the block and heads without requiring machining. I've heard about it from someone with ownership experience of a Gen 2. After going through three sets of MLS Mustang gaskets, he put on the Reinz instead and it lasted another 80k miles before the car got sold (running perfectly) to a neighbor. And then another 30-40k miles on those same Reinz gaskets for him until the car body rusted out.

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If you guys need any help I'll make the trek up there. Its only an hour away.

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I stopped by one of the area junkyards yesterday and they had a rummage box of center caps and hubcaps for $3 a piece. Naturally I had to see what was in the box and came out with what I believe were four Expedition centers, one Mountaineer center, and a Grand Marquis center.

 

The cool thing is, despite having slightly different bolt patterns, all of them fit except for the Grand Marquis center. Since they do fit, I'm going to need some opinions.

 

I have a full size spare steel wheel, so I'll show it off first in full dress with a trim ring from my Grand Marquis, I'll show off a Basketweave rim.

 

Ford Center

aebz.jpg

 

Mercury Center

6exg.jpg

 

Ford Center on Basketweave (Mercury Center is too large to fit)

zuvm.jpg

 

Full Side Profile

4oj2.jpg

 

I don't know, but the way I lean, I might need to go find some 15" steelies. :)

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The Ford caps are from an Explorer with 16" wheels, Expeditions are 6 lugs.

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The Ford caps are from an Explorer with 16" wheels, Expeditions are 6 lugs.

Thanks for the correction. They look a bit like them, but after comparing them I see that beside the obvious six lug pattern on the back, Expeditions have fully circular centers without the indentations.

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I have royally shot myself in the foot today.

 

ktlb.jpg

 

While putting on the black steering column cover, I decided the best way to get the lower left quarter on was to remove the ignition cylinder. Great in theory, bad when I went to go put it back in and while rotating it in place to reinsert, rotated it to the position to remove the tumbler assembly from the outer housing which caused a pin to shoot out. That pin and damaged tumbler assembly may have explained why the key could be removed while in any position.

 

There is still an '89 Taurus wagon with ignition key at the junkyard and I have a '90 Taurus ignition cylinder and appears the tumbler assembly could be added to the Sable's outer housing. I'll have more tomorrow.  

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That Dilbert comic with the robot is a total ripoff of HK-47...

 

Meatbag.jpg?width=500&height=400

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