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Was wondering if you guys had any input on a replacement alternator brands for the duratec. Are the ones from autozone,advance ect... good? Would a junkyard alt be a wise decision either? Just looking for any input right now. 

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The ones we sell at work (Advance Auto) are fairly decent. There is the new (ToughOne) which I really do not know much about, but have not yet heard anything bad about them. The cheaper ones are remanufactured OEM ones and for the most part they seem to hold up. I have a reman one in my car and so far it has been good.

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Look into getting yours rebuilt. I found a place in Antigo called Karl's Quality Auto & Electric that offers alternator rebuilds, also these guys but they're a bit of a drive: http://www.cmkstarter.com/

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Only issue is that I broke the + post off the case of my current alternator =[ Unless they can set me up with a new case. Nekoosa isn't too far away for me right now as I'm going to stevens point for school right now. I'll have to give them a call.

Edited by adio
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JY is likely out. Location of the Alt makes it hard to remove.

 

Published reports, 99% of those for rebuild have worn out slip rings/brushes.

Rebuilders replace the rotor, regulator/brushes, and bearings.

Clean the rest and paint.

 

OEM life is quite good IMHO. My two 110K and 124K are just fine. (for now)

 

The Tec uses 130A alt, good record.

 

-chart-

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Am at almost 190K on my 2000 in miles, still has same alt.  A few other guys have gone further, like mwt.  Another guy made it to 210-220k on his DOHC alt.

 

Anyways, I would see if you can provide the local rebuilder some business.  Majors wagon had a rebuild done by a shop on the opposite end of town from me.  Nice, quiet, smooth operation.

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Am at almost 190K on my 2000 in miles, still has same alt.  A few other guys have gone further, like mwt.  Another guy made it to 210-220k on his DOHC alt.

 

Anyways, I would see if you can provide the local rebuilder some business.  Majors wagon had a rebuild done by a shop on the opposite end of town from me.  Nice, quiet, smooth operation.

http://qui-quote.com/ford-taurus-engines/

 

For what it worth.

 

-chart-

 

AltKit_zps07d9b6df.jpg

Edited by -chart-
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We can get either new alternators or OEM rebuilt units if you are interested: http://www.shosource.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=61_75

 

We include a free return tag and shipping is included in the price for the US.

 

If you are interested let me know and I get pricing.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Didn't turn out good =/  Had a local guy rebuild my old one. Get hardly any output at ldle, and only clamped 150A from it when he said it should be 180A. I'm wondering if the guy would let me get a refund for the parts he put into it. Just getting sick of messing around with the labor putting in a new alternator every damn week. Saw that mechman has a 240A alternator for $350, had I seen that earlier I woulda just went with that. I bought an alternator earlier online from company X last month, and literally the same thing, no output at idle and clamped 170A from their claimed 220A. Is a good alternator really that hard to come by these days?

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Didn't turn out good =/  Had a local guy rebuild my old one. Get hardly any output at ldle, and only clamped 150A from it when he said it should be 180A. I'm wondering if the guy would let me get a refund for the parts he put into it. Just getting sick of messing around with the labor putting in a new alternator every damn week. Saw that mechman has a 240A alternator for $350, had I seen that earlier I woulda just went with that. I bought an alternator earlier online from company X last month, and literally the same thing, no output at idle and clamped 170A from their claimed 220A. Is a good alternator really that hard to come by these days?

AltOutPut_zps88411bdc.jpg

Here is what Ford specs for "130A".

To get 130 there is a rpm spec for engine rpm and I do not remember but is really high.

And to test that you would need a really sever load.

IdleAmps_zpsf614eb92.jpg

 

Here is my idle output, warm, in "N".  and the place to check. This for DOHC 130A alt, idling with all things running that I can get to do at one time. I did both Sables, got the same value and for me, this is what it should do.

 

And as I read the chart, this is about on par.

 

-chart-

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Didn't turn out good =/  Had a local guy rebuild my old one. Get hardly any output at ldle, and only clamped 150A from it when he said it should be 180A. I'm wondering if the guy would let me get a refund for the parts he put into it. Just getting sick of messing around with the labor putting in a new alternator every damn week. Saw that mechman has a 240A alternator for $350, had I seen that earlier I woulda just went with that. I bought an alternator earlier online from company X last month, and literally the same thing, no output at idle and clamped 170A from their claimed 220A. Is a good alternator really that hard to come by these days?

 

 

The problem is typical with a high out put alternator.  They usually do not generate all of their potential at idle.  One thing you can check, is if you have the smallest pulley possible for the alternator.  When I had my H.O built I wasn't even getting 13+V, but it turns out somebody at some point had installed an oversized pulley.

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The guy said I didn't have to change any pullys or belts. I realize it won't put out a ton at idle but 25 amps at idle? That's just wayyyy to low. I saw the same voltage when I ran my car without my alternator, which was around 12-12.2 volts. The mechman I'm looking at does around 110 amps at idle and it is a highout alternator.

Edited by adio
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Only issue is that I broke the + post off the case of my current alternator =[ Unless they can set me up with a new case. Nekoosa isn't too far away for me right now as I'm going to stevens point for school right now. I'll have to give them a call.

 

plus post... like this?

 

My SHO now uses an alt off of a windstar thanks to these fine people. it stops working at 5500 rpm, but that doesnt bother me, the car doesnt constantly run that high anyway. swap pulleys and bada bing, we got juice.

 

my point, are there no substitutes/ones that will fit in place of, for the 3L tec alternator?

 

1006224_453799851385199_561019203_n.jpg

 

$had3 :ford::merc::Shady_J:

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The problem is typical with a high out put alternator.  They usually do not generate all of their potential at idle.  One thing you can check, is if you have the smallest pulley possible for the alternator.  When I had my H.O built I wasn't even getting 13+V, but it turns out somebody at some point had installed an oversized pulley.

AltPulley_zps07c88a65.jpg

 

Want a small pulley, this from Lin Cont from the JY. I got the alt for a spare.

By the book, the Cont spins the alt ~50% faster than the Duratec. Same alt so it will not hurt the alt to go faster. Just takes a bit more power.

The 130A alt V-8 and the Duratec are the same but the aluminum mounting is different. They can be removed and changed. V-regulators are different from one year to another in the Duratec, like my '01 and '03 are different. The '03 adjusts the output with a signal from the PCM while the '01 does not.

 

So for me, I have 2 spare used, checked well, good bearings, good slip rings, and good regulators. One setup for the Lin Cont, one for the Duratecs.

 

-chart-

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Any interest in overdrive alt pulleys from common stock at the JY.

 

Measured pulley OD of the belt rib top. (not the flange)

 

TEC 2.995"

V-8 rear drive 2.315"

Lin Cont 2.105"

Common method of ratios is from belt OD wrapped around the pulley.

Add 0.215" for that on the OD.

 

From TEC standard pulley.

V-8 pulley 1.3X alt rpm.

Cont Pulley 1.4X alt rpm.

Rounded off values.

There is a method of approximate belt length for under/over drive alt pulleys.

If anyone really needs it I will find the text.

 

And if ilde amps more than ~50A is desired, you might want do do this.

 

-chart-

 

 

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