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thesavo

Parking Brake Adjuster Nut

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I have been meaning to post this since early summer.

Base part:2k390. I can't find a fitment or extended part number. My guess is the range of Gen 3 - Gen 4 should be compatible.

It needs a12 mm wrench. Thread count /pitch unknown.

It's basically a long nut with a thick washer welded to the end.

So after replacing the front parking cable, I need to replace the special nut at the adjuster. The replacement cable came with regular COTS Hardware. It's really a pain adjust or loosen for working on brakes. I had to supply my own washers.

Here's what mine looked like before I cut it off.

0529131807_zpsab81ef19.jpg

Here's a better pic of the nut I am looking for. I don't need the big spanner.

0924131850a_zpsd25285a8.jpg

Terms :

COTS - common off the shelf

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

Edited by thesavo

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I have been meaning to post this since early summer. Base part:2k390. I can't find a fitment or extended part number. My guess is the range of Gen 3 - Gen 4 should be compatible. It needs a12 mm wrench. Thread count /pitch unknown. It's basically a long nut with a thick washer welded to the end. So after replacing the front parking cable, I need to replace the special nut at the adjuster. The replacement cable came with regular COTS Hardware. It's really a pain adjust or loosen for working on brakes. I had to supply my own washers. Here's what mine looked like before I cut it off. 0529131807_zpsab81ef19.jpg Here's a better pic of the nut I am looking for. I don't need the big spanner. 0924131850a_zpsd25285a8.jpg Terms : COTS - common off the shelf Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

Unless I am missing something here:

Nut goes on the inside of the yoke, as in your top pic, it is on the other end of the threaded rod.

 

-chart-

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Right. But I had to cut the threaded rod to release it from the yoke(spanner) (adjuster).

I soked it in pb blaster for days. I forgot about trying ATF.

The replacement cable has no such specialty nut that allows you to tighten the cable. The special nut allows you tighten it outside the yoke with greater range of the wenche.

I have only common 1/4 nuts. To apply tension. You gave tighten it against a washer bigger than the whole, inside the yoke. Very little ability to turn a wrench. Then another washer and nut on the forward side to lock it in place.

That's what the new Napa cable came with.

Other sources also don't show or list the inclusion of this special nut.

I would like to avoid the $25 surcharge of a dealer, and I would have to buy the tile to get it. That's my guess anyway. The parts breakdown don't list it separately.

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

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PKBkAdj_zps2a4af3a8.jpg

 

I got my adjuster off by use of a propane tourch and tools shown. Removed the rubber bands first, just slid them down the cable out of the heat. Found I could tighten it first then when it turned a bit hot, let it cool, lots of oil and chrank, crank. I replaced the rear driver's side cable and readjusted. Now, I heated the nut most and not the threaded rod. Expanson loosened it enough to turn.

 

12 year old rust belt car.

-chart-

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Awsome work. I wish I had or thought of a torch when I did the cable.

Do think I can still extricate the nut from its threaded rod, after cutting it?

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

Edited by thesavo

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Awsome work. I wish I had or thought of a torch when I did the cable. Do think I can still extricate the nut from its threaded rod, after cutting it? Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

Some things you do not want to heat, others do not matter. This is mild steel, no harm to heat it. Vice grips are a real helper. For what you got, a vice would help.

 

-chart-

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