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Alignment/noise After Eibach/koni Installation


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I finally got the koni struts/eibach springs put on but instantly discovered that, when going over speed bump or pot holes, both front struts made a loud noise. Turning it to full hard made it somehow better but still really loud. We put it on lift and re-checked everything front suspension wise, swaybar, tie rod.. everything and seemingly  the noise are coming from the struts when they were compressed past a centain point. Is that a normal thing with those Konis? I have never used their product so have no idea. Your input is greatly appreciated.

Another thing that worries me is that after the installation of those struts the car barely aligned with the front driver side camber at negative 1.7 and passenger side negative 1.2, this, especially the driver side will certainly chew out the tires rather quickly. I understand that the lowering effect of those eibach springs will increase negative camber, but 1.7 seems very excessive. Thanks for n\any comments and suggestions in advance!

 

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Paul had some special modifications on both front strut towers to compensate for that problem- even the FSTB that I got from the same car has some tweaks to allow more adjustment because of the lowered setup.

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Hello Tim,

Paul (SHOZ123) said those strut mounts are nearly new and don't need replacement , that's the only reason I ididn't change them. Can they be reused? 

Thanks for all of your reply. I will reply to the rest of your comments shortly.

Did you change the upper strut mounts?

Tim

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 Yeah I had the alignment shop do it but still not enough adjustment..it was not even align-able before the original plates were drilled out.

Do you think a Moog  camber/alignment kit will help?

Did you drill out the plates in the strut tower?

You gotta drill the spot welds, and even then it may not be enough. Expect inner tire wear.

Edited by Vashthestanbeto
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 Thanks for your input. Paul didn't tell me this when he sold me there struts and I assumed that he had no problems.Crap. Sounds like a fairly expensive solution. I don't have any more money left to burn for this car at the moment. but thanks for letting me know-the front tires that I am currently running are cheap Falkens and I guess for now I can at least replace them when they wear out until I got the alignment problem properly fixed. Do you think a camber plate kit will help? Outside of the noise(I can live with it for now long as its nothing dangerous) and alignment issue mentioned, the firmness, eliminated nose dive, improved steering response etc was excellent and I certainly wouldn't take them off for another setup-unless we are talking about Coilovers  :blush:

   

I also wrote a positive side of report here:

http://www.taurusown...ly/page__st__82

Slightly off topic, but the shop which did my cobra bracket machining told me that they can make a none-adjustable version of the strut tower brace if there is something to copy from  :rolleyes:

Paul had some special modifications on both front strut towers to compensate for that problem- even the FSTB that I got from the same car has some tweaks to allow more adjustment because of the lowered setup.

Edited by Vashthestanbeto
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Aftermarket camber plates won't help much, if at all.

I have the Eibach/KYB combo, and ended up having to enlarge the holes in the strut tower to allow for further camber/caster adjustment with the lowering springs. There is still a bit of negative camber, but it's in the low 1's. The rear is another story (needs moar adjustable bars!).

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I drilled the spot welds and tossed the upper plates. The mount for the FSTB serves at the upper plate now. I hogged out the holes considerably and pulled the struts out as far as possible, to the point where the rubber strut mount cone bumps up against the strut tower. Finally, I was able to get alignment within spec and eliminate inner edge tire wear.

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Slightly off topic, but the shop which did my cobra bracket machining told me that they can make a none-adjustable version of the strut tower brace if there is something to copy from :rolleyes:

I'll get you the measurements from mine; they should be able to fab something like it.

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Mark, thanks. I won't waste money on camber kits then. as far as enlarging the holes goes, how large do they have to be? For the rear, my guess is you might need to use adjustable rear lower control arms.

Due to my nature of traveling long distances for my occupation and hobby sometimes, the rear Gen 3 spring is actually too soft for the amount of mass that goes into the trunk. I will have them changed to Moog CC859 cargo coils(which should also help improve the handling), so rear lowering isn't something I am worried about. 

Aftermarket camber plates won't help much, if at all.

I have the Eibach/KYB combo, and ended up having to enlarge the holes in the strut tower to allow for further camber/caster adjustment with the lowering springs.  There is still a bit of negative camber, but it's in the low 1's.  The rear is another story (needs moar adjustable bars!).

I see, thanks! I will live with the tire wear for now as they are cheap tires anyway and just hold off the plan to use pirelli P4 tires until its properly fixed.

I drilled the spot welds and tossed the upper plates. The mount for the FSTB serves at the upper plate now. I hogged out the holes considerably and pulled the struts out as far as possible, to the point where the rubber strut mount  cone bumps up against the strut tower. Finally, I was able to get alignment within spec and eliminate inner edge tire wear.

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Appreciated. Really. I was also thinking about making more than one for whoever that might want a FSTB.

Will those specs I sent you suffice to make one of your own?

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The Konis should not make any noises. Mine don't make any noises. The mounts might need to be replaced. I have tried to reuse mounts without much luck.

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Will those specs I sent you suffice to make one of your own?

I just got to check those pictures out..thanks! If you don't mind, I could use  bit more information..The thickness of the plate, the rough thickness of the bar itself, the length of the bar , and the diameter of the large opening for the top of the strut towers to go thru. The rest of the information were proved to be very useful and I will try to get a price quoted really soon.

The Konis should not make any noises. Mine don't make any noises. The mounts might need to be replaced. I have tried to reuse mounts without much luck.

I see, Thanks. I can live with those noises for now, it;s just annoying. but I will get them struts out when I am finally fixing the nagative camber problem. I will have the mounts replaced then.

Ohh one thing to ask you..The Koni struts are supposed to have a adjustable range of 3 turns right? does that stand for 3x360 degree full circling of the adjustable knob or 3x180 degree/half circle turns? Reason for asking is because I can only get the knob to turn 1.5 full circles.(540 dgrees) on both struts. which firmed up the ride considerably but still slightly soft for what I was expecting. So just wonder if that's normal too. Thanks in advance for answering.

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I just got to check those pictures out..thanks! If you don't mind, I could use bit more information..The thickness of the plate, the rough thickness of the bar itself, the length of the bar , and the diameter of the large opening for the top of the strut towers to go thru. The rest of the information were proved to be very useful and I will try to get a price quoted really soon.

The plate is 1/4" thick, and the bar itself is about 1" thick steel tubing. The bar isn't easy to measure, because it isn't a straight tube (it's shaped kind of like this: _/-------\__ to fit around the back of the engine). The inside diameter of the strut tower hole is 43/4".

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post-53-056922400 1279647595_thumb.jpg

post-53-010002700 1279647771_thumb.jpg

The pink paint outlines the FSTB mount. I made the holes larger than they really need to be. Best would be to simply elongate the holes laterally towards the side of the car.

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Gotcha, thanks a whole lot! I will try to get a quotation by Thursday and see about the possibility of making more than 1.

The plate is 1/4" thick, and the bar itself is about 1" thick steel tubing. The bar isn't easy to measure, because it isn't a straight tube (it's shaped kind of like this: _/-------\__ to fit around the back of the engine). The inside diameter of the strut tower hole is 43/4".

Thank you very much, please tell me you didn't take the front strut out just to take that photo, I didn't mean to cause you trouble like this. :wacko:

post-53-056922400 1279647595_thumb.jpg

post-53-010002700 1279647771_thumb.jpg

The pink paint outlines the FSTB mount. I made the holes larger than they really need to be. Best would be to simply elongate the holes laterally towards the side of the car.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fortunately for me, the guys in the shop did an awesome job of aligning my car without drilling out the spot welds. I'm running Eibach/Sensatracs

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I see, lucky you!

How long do you guys think I can live with the noise that the strut mounts make(almost sure that's what it is now) without it being dangerous? the steering is still smooth if that's any indication.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update:

Ok, this is great! I found the strut mount bolts to be too loose( can be easily turned by a ratchet without effort) thought that might be the cause, so decided to tighten them up, tightened some and found out that the noise when going over bumps nearly disappeared! so I went back to tighten the bolts a little more hoping to rid the noises completely and all it took was another quarter turn of the ratchet and one of the studs on my passenger side strut was busted..is the car driveable at all, limping? I need the car for the next few days bad.....

So far...strut mount= 1, Me= 0 lolz...

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Gravity pushes the car down onto those mounts, and two of the studs are still attached (presumably :ph34r:). It would probably be OK if you don't push the car hard until that mount gets fixed or replaced.

So, no catching air this week! :D

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Alright!

got both front balljoints and strut mounts replaced and my gold bull roared back to life! only one small question..one of the new strut mounts have the center hole(which allows the top of strut to penetrate through and the top nut tightened) was visibly larger than another one(which is snug) and allowed a little play of the strut inside when steering. It isn't avoidable as the store I bought both mounts from fetched a different mount and it too, shared the top hole size difference. It's making no noises nor feeling loose, just allows a tiny bit of play when the strut is turned. Is this something worthy of concern? please educate me in this regard , much appreciated.

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