Jump to content
Guitarslinger16

Engine Idle

Recommended Posts

Hello i am new here and have some ?s i have a 03 taurus 3.0 ohc v6. When i start the car it will move forward and it will idle high and when i am at a stop sign i can let off the gas pedel and it will accellerate on it own. When i am driving i put the car in neutral to see what happens and the car will rev up. Any suggestion? Thank u

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unless your idle is set high, thats kind of how the car is. all 4 of my taurii/sables do this. its just the torque getting you moving under load.

the idle i am curious about too, as my 94 will idle at 2KRPM at start up

$had3 :ford::merc::Shady_J:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Normal for the idle to be 1500 to 2000 for up to 30 seconds at startup, less time in warmer conditions. Extended high idle times are usually caused by sticking/dirty IAC valves.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you clean an IAC? seafoam or?

Guitarslinger16, is your engine a Vulcan or Duratec?

12V ohv, or the 24V DOHC (would say on the fender)

$had3 :ford::merc::Shady_J:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You clean it with either carb or throttle body cleaner. Sometimes cleaning just doesn't do it and it will need to be replaced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Carb cleaner on a Q-tip will get most of it clean. Don't forget the gasket if it needs replaced.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Vulcan should be right on top

should be 2 8mm bolts, and a wiring harness, unbolt and unplug, remove, and clean real good, reinstall, and try it out.

the little guy circled in orange is what your looking for:

post-60-0-78030000-1353105486_thumb.jpg

$had3 :ford::merc::Shady_J:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had no good success cleaning them myself. I read a specific article to clean them but maybe my problem was elsewhere like where the manifold port being clogged up where the IAC valve bolts on... I ended up pulling the upper manifold and thoroughly cleaning it with throttle-body cleaner and blowing the ports all out...

I have had good success cleaning MAF sensors however...

:pat:

Edited by mwzephyr

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello i am new here and have some ?s i have a 03 taurus 3.0 ohc v6. When i start the car it will move forward and it will idle high and when i am at a stop sign i can let off the gas pedel and it will accellerate on it own. When i am driving i put the car in neutral to see what happens and the car will rev up. Any suggestion? Thank u

I have cleaned all mine. All work good.

See pic, this one was from the JY from a totally plugged up one.

I poured kerosene in and cleaned it with Q-tip to get the liquid part of the oil out.

Then used household ammonia and Q-tips to get the solid part of dirt out.

Blow dry with compressed air, or you could use a hair dryer.

Now the rest of the story:

High idle comes from too much air in the intake.

It can come from stuck IAC or leaking vacuum.

The engine management adds gas to make the fuel mix happy according to the O2 sensors.

I would first start looking for vacuum leaks. Hoses broken, cracked, PCV not working right, even fresh air to the valve cover leaking unmetered air.

-chart-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I cleaned mine with throttle body cleaner and it fixed it's problem with a idle down and up problem. Usually they have to be replaced... but read what chart said above, maybe that can help you....

most of us don't have the patience like chart, and will waste $40 on a new one :P We're all not very smart haha

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Grab one from a junkyard.

Blast it with carb cleaner.

Seafoam the engine.

I don't think the Vulcan has a setscrew idle adjustment like the Essex, but as far as I know the idle in that little engine is quite up there, it's normal for it to be in the 2k range at startup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just cleaned my IAC just yesterday with a little carb clean to try an help a slight stumble at start up, and it seemed to work. It was'nt even that dirty, so it doesn't seem to take much to make them sluggish.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anything that causes the shaft to bind will affect the idle quality.

Related (loosely) is a 4.6 Romeo engine I worked on that would stall on cold starts. Removed the throttle body and cleaned the bypass screw and channel. IAC is hidden on the back side of the manifold on this application.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Inspect the vacuum hoses for cracks or leaks. Also check the PCV hose. Vacuum leak could explain the poor fuel mileage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok i will check that and i am sure that will fix the problem. Now i have one more ? . My car also has this terrible squeak on the passenger side. I replaced the altornator harmonic balancer and crankshaft pulley and the idler pulley it stopped pretty much after the idler pulley but it still does it slightly. Any other suggestions

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Squeak as in a chirping noise? Thats usually cam position sensor and synchronizer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Squeak as in a chirping noise? Thats usually cam position sensor and synchronizer.

True, but the cam synchro is on the driver's side of the engine. If the noise is from the passengers side it's most likely from the pulley system. I'm thinking the belt tensioner since he has replaced the idlers pulley already.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahh, true if it is from the drivers side then it isn't the synchro. I overlooked he said passengers side.

Could be the tensioner. My tensioner is a bit lax, sometimes at high engine speeds I'll get a belt squeal for a very short period of time.

Edited by breeves002

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as the squeak goes, try replacing the belt. That fixed mine but now its back, i think one of my pulleys are bad or not aligned right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahh, true if it is from the drivers side then it isn't the synchro. I overlooked he said passengers side.

Could be the tensioner. My tensioner is a bit lax, sometimes at high engine speeds I'll get a belt squeal for a very short period of time.

Easy and quick test of tensioner. Pull on the belt on a straight section and watch the tensioner mover. Release the hold on the belt and watch the tensioner return to it's home. This should happen smooth and quiet. Also, then check the alignment marks for it reaching it's maximum travel due to belt too long. And of course, key out and no one in the car.

A squeeky piviot on the tensioner is not really uncommon. As for squeeks in the system, other than tensioner pivot.

Remove the belt and spin each pulley with ball bearings. Water pump, A/C clutch, Alt, idler. The PS is a sleeve bearing and rare to make noise, and then not a squeek. It runs flooded in oil. Note: endplay in the PS is normal as it is a sleeve bearing. Ball bearings should have only very minimum play. Alt bearings take a lot of abuse.

-chart-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...