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I figured that since there isn't another actual writeup on this subject, I'd add one. I performed this modication on my 2005 Taurus SEL in April 2009.

Disclaimer- This is a basic step-by-step guide to adding an aftermarket UDP to a 2005 Vulcan-powered Taurus. Different Generations or engines will likely not follow the exact same procedure or torque specs, or necessarily require the same tools because of differences in the fasteners. Please consult a Chilton's or Haynes repair manual for your specific Generation of Taurus/Sable before attempting to perform this modification at home. It is also recommended that this be done with a helper to simplify the process of operating the belt tensioner around the beginning and the end of the procedure. All text in bold should be treated with extra-special super close attention- you could either be injured or killed, and/or seriously f**k up your car if you don't follow the bold instructions very carefully.

Supplies needed:

-New UDP and drivebelt- SHOSource has an excellent package- SHOS-VUDP - made for the 93-07 3.0 Vulcan V6.

-13mm deepwell socket with appropriate-sized drive ratchet; or an impact wrench if deemed necessary.

*required only if rust is present*

-Assorted sockets, extensions and screwdrivers- the sizes needed may vary by Generation, but a typical SAE/Metric mechanic's tool set should have most or all of the pieces that you need. My old 25 piece Craftsman handtool set had everything needed for doing this modification on a Gen 4.


1. Place vehicle up on jackstands, after raising the front end with a floorjack. Chock both rear wheels and set the parking brake first.

2. After raising the hood, sketch the drive belt's path between every pulley. You will need this later, so don't forget to do it before any further steps are attempted. Otherwise, it can normally be found illustrated in the Chilton's or Haynes repair manual for your specific car.

3. Remove forward half of passenger-side inner fender liner by removing all fasteners. Depending on the Generation of your car, most of them will probably be screws, though some might be hex-bolts or even the plastic christmas-tree clips.

This is what you'll see:


4. The 13mm deep sockets will remove these four bolts holding the crankshaft pulley on. If rust (as shown above) is present on pulley's center, spray with some penetrant to loosen the rust's hold on the pulley. DO NOT try to force the pulley off; use the damper puller after spraying to gently coax the pulley loose. You don't want to cause damage to your crankshaft!

5. As shown below, the tensioner has to be reached with a 15mm wrench to loosen it enough to pull off the drivebelt. On the 04-07 Vulcans (other years of the Vulcan may have this technique reversed), pull the wrench backwards towards the firewall (counter-clockwise if looking at the front of the engine) to loosen the tensioner and then slip the belt off the tensioner pulley. Once this is done, it will come off the rest of the accessory and drive pulleys easily.


6. When the belt and old crank pulley have been removed, slip the new UDP onto the four crank pulley studs and torque down the bolts at 30-44 ft-lbs.

This is how it will look after you slip the new drivebelt down into the accessory area. That's a Goodyear Gatorback belt; it came with the UDP.


And this is how it should look after you've completed Step 8.


7. Slip the belt around each of the pulleys, following the guide sheet that was made earlier during Step 2. Put it around the idler pulley (the black, rubber-coated wheel, above and to the left of the tensioner as seen below) last.


8. Then, pull the tensioner bolt again to loosen it, and slip the belt over the tensioner until it is centered on the belt-rubbing surface. Slowly release the tensioner as it pushes the drivebelt into place; You should see the belt centered on every pulley as in the picture above. Failure to do this may cause the belt to come loose and slip off a pulley(s) during future driving.

9. If you feel confident the car is chocked and placed on the jackstands securely, start the engine to ensure that the accessory drive is now turning easily and that all pulleys are being engaged. Turn the car off again once you have established that the drive belt doesn't snap off, squeal, or bind up in the pulleys. Otherwise, if you're not sure about its stability, complete the beginning of step 10 before attempting to start the engine.

10. Reinstall the inner fender liner from Step 3. Put the wheel/tire back on and torque lug nuts accordingly. Lower the car to the ground and start your newly modified, parasitic-drag liberated Vulcan V6!

Not counting some lost time spent easing the OEM crank pulley off of it's rusty mount, this took me approximately one hour from start to finish; that was with an assistant to help me open the tensioner. On that day, we installed the UDP and front Duralast ceramic-padded brakes in about 3 1/2 hours. Not too bad for a rainy Saturday spent in the garage!

The accessories will probably show the following minor side-effects of being turned slower than before: The interior lighting may be slightly dimmer from less alternator output at idle, the power steering may require more effort during idle or driving with slower engine rpm's, and the air conditioning may not blow quite as cold or could take longer to cool down during idling-engine conditions. All of these symptoms are normal with an underdrive pulley, and will not cause any harm to your vehicle. The modification is now completed, and you can enjoy the added pep of a Vulcan V6 without its usual mechanical shackles. Enjoy!

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