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Brian_05_SEL

Scarlett: 1987 Mercury Sable (A Low Mileage Survivor)

762 posts in this topic

Oh and something else I wanted to point out- those lamp lenses are pristine! Most older cars in this region have yellowed, hazy lenses. But my original 1987 head- and taillamps are still beautiful. :wub:

I was gonna say, Those front lenses on your '87 are pretty clear. Not even yellow'd yet, not to mention the condition of the paint. Can totally tell that, that car has spent alot of time indoors.

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Ladies and gentlemen... she has a name. B)

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Well, I picked up a pair of #2040 bulbs earlier tonight. And now I can report that the famous Mercury "Laser Lamp" front grille on Scarlett is 100% functional. :D

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I have these items, that will be installed on the Sable soon. Also picked up a new radiator cap, and have some other miscellaneous items such as switches coming...

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When I replaced my originals around 2005, It was like driving a whole diffrent car. So much less vibration and noise.

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Well, I picked up a pair of #2040 bulbs earlier tonight. And now I can report that the famous Mercury "Laser Lamp" front grille on Scarlett is 100% functional. :D

That grille would look pretty cool illuminated by some white led bulbs. :)

Edited by Radioflyer
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It would appear that the driver's seat belt is actually working OK. I mistook the built-in ”comfort regulator” feature for an inability to properly retract the belt. :blush: Pro tip: ALWAYS read your owner's manual, folks.

With my next paycheck will come more replacement parts for Scarlett, such as a new power antenna mast and a driver's side wiper arm.

My GF also wagered $10 that I wouldn't dare to mount chrome spinner wheelcovers on the stock 15” steelies. :ph34r: We shall see, my dear... muhaha.

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That grille would look pretty cool illuminated by some white led bulbs. :)

That is a neat idea!

The original lights burned out, and were rather expensive back in the day. Most people did not bother to replace them.

I am of course, "not most people".

The LED thing is great.

-chart-

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Please, please, anything but chrome spinners on steel wheels. For the same price you should be able to score a set of Generation 4 aluminum 16" wheels or eve a set of 17" Lincoln LS wheels. Borrow a set of spinners to win the bet, but do not waste money on such tripe.

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Ok, I topped off the coolant and power steering fluid tonight. Good news: the heat functions great, and so does the analog coolant gauge. :D As it turns out, it was just missing about a gallon of coolant to make things right... :huh:

The current plan is for Kevin and I to do the CV axle replacement and transaxle pan drop tomorrow...

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There is currently a hissing/vacuum noise coming from the front left corner of the firewall at all times, but it gets much quieter as the brake pedal is applied. And on the drive home Monday night, cruise control did not function at all when I tried it out. Seems like there would be something related there? :huh:

Kevin and I just put about 20 miles on Scarlett to go get some eats. The heater is quick to engage from a cold start, and man is it POWERFUL. :o

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Vacuum bypass hose/valve from the cruise control attached to the brake pedal is leaking. This will prevent cruise from working.

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Vacuum bypass hose/valve from the cruise control attached to the brake pedal is leaking. This will prevent cruise from working.

Sweet. Do you know how involved it would be to repair/replace said leaky hose? :icon_neutral:

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More pics, and a video. B)

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Got a red/tan leather cover for the steering wheel- it was pretty worn...

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Running the Vulcan:

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Oh, and it turns out that the panel dimmer switch and the headlamp/parking lamp switch are OK too! Scarlett is slowly waking up and shaking off the dust over this past week. :P

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Look under dash, Follow the brake pedal up, near the light switch is a 5/16" hose attached to a plastic valve assembly. My guess is this valve is leaking. IIRC, this hose has a white stripe on it, it goes out to the cruise servo on the left strut tower.

Hardest part of replacing it is fishing it through the firewall.

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Probably explains the high idle. I think I know a way we can test this Brian, unhook the hose, then plug the end, and see if the noise goes away. There's like a little block where all the vacuum lines go. Must be that vacuum line that disappeared into the fender, into the passenger compartment.

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The hose into the left fender goes to a vacuum reservoir. The hose in question goes through just under and outboard of the brake booster.

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Awesome Brian!!! Maybe I can come by one weekend and see it in person?!?!?!? :icon_mrgreen:

Love the red interior. Reminds me of my Mom's old Oldsmobile.

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That ODO is digital, how many digets does it go to? I really like the tach!

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The digital odometer will go up to 199,999.9 miles, and then it should cycle back to 0 or 0.1.

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Well I hope she doesn't have 250k on her ;)

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The CV axles are finished. :D Ran into some hurdles along the way, but we finally succeeded...

Coolant leak will need to be addressed in the future, and the vacuum leak too.

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If you need a radiator like you're talking about on the phone, there are two models sold that fit the 1st Gen (and 2nd Gen Taurus).

Factory, these cars had a 1 inch radiator with and without AC. However, Vista-Pro (former Visteon, supplier of many parts to Ford), sells a 2 inch thick radiator. They sell the 1 inch version as w/o AC and the 2 inch w/AC. They won't list the sizes on the net. If you want the extra thick radiator, it never hurts. Just figured I'd pass that info along.

And congratulations on getting the job done! Hopefully it's quiet now.

Funny listening to Kevin trying to buzz the endlink nut off, then keep trying repeatedly when it won't budge :lol:

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The CV axles are finished. :D Ran into some hurdles along the way, but we finally succeeded...

Coolant leak will need to be addressed in the future, and the vacuum leak too.

One thing at a time man! Good you have one thing down!

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I still got that sonuvab***hin thing off. Had to do it the manual way. But results are results. Sometimes gotta get pure man power to get it done right.

The thing I learned most. A Chevrolet Aveo that was involved in a front end smack, with damaged components, was easier to work on than a car that was not in any accidents.

I also learned, telling the car it should behave much like a Chevrolet, stuff magically begins to work the way it should (Such as the halfshaft sliding into the transmission the way it should, or stuff lining up, or bolts going together the way they should)

Not sure if the Chevrolet Celebrity/Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera would be any easier... But I still told the car it probably would have, I think it hurt her feelings a bit, and she began to behave the way a car should. :lol:

Anyway, car sounds much better on turning. Now we need to focus on the coolant leak, and figure out the vacuum leak.

I found out if I disco the power brake booster, and plug the line, idle drops from about 1500ish to 800ish and hiss goes away. So perhaps that is bad. Also, I still hear a minor hiss inside, so either the brake booster is bad, and then a 2nd issue, or they relate somehow.

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