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2000 Duratec Swap

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First off, I'm a new member just wanna say hello.... Hello.

Have a 2000 Taurus SEL w/ Duratec sitting dead in my garage for the past year...its off the ground btw. Bought it for fair price, bad dealer. Two months after I bought it, 13 days after their warranty expired, it started knocking. Rod bearing. Drove it for over 18 months , knocking and all, till it died. Thankfully I was on my street and coasted to the driveway. Cash has been tight with children and whatnot, so I haven't been able to fix it. Can't part with the car, its immaculate! Fully loaded w/ leather.

Well here I am now, with a complete donor 2000 Taurus with the Duratec, only the transmission is shot. Perfect for what I need. Not only do I get a motor with only 86k on it, but all the spares I'm gonna need as well; starter, alt., pwr steering pump, and so on.

I'm gonna be doing this job primarily solo, just looking for the best way to remove the engines. Ford mechanics I know said they would do it at home thru the top, but they aren't helping me out with labor charges. I've read that people have done it at home with hand tools. I've worked in plenty of these cars all the back to 2nd Gen.

Time is not an object really, but it would help to have it done ASAP. Any input on how to go about this would greatly help.

If I drop the motor thru the bottom, can I leave the AC system intact and just hang from the radiator supports, to avoid discharging the system?

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When I pulled mine I went from the top. Just take the hood off, make sure not to forget the torque convertor nuts, and pull all the accessories off the front. It is pretty straight forward. I left the rear exhaust manifold in the car, left the alternator, took the cooling fans out. Swapped pretty easily that way.

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Welcome to the forum! Happy to see you willing to give her new life instead of abandoning her in some scrapyard.

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Vash, thanks for the input. How'd u go about the AC system?

Rusty, can't just leave her for dead. Love these cars!

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Unbolted it from its bracket and let is rest on the subframe. Sits out of the way perfectly. I would suggest putting locktight on the compressor bolts upon install though. A few months after my swap I noticed one bolt missing and another loose, even though they were tightened to spec.

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Rusty, can't just leave her for dead. Love these cars!

I know the feeling. Year ago I put a $3000 trans in mine, and looks like she'll be getting a fuel pump in the near future, too. Can't beat it for the fact that the engines are for the most part bulletproof, and they are great overall cars. B)

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I know the feeling. Year ago I put a $3000 trans in mine, and looks like she'll be getting a fuel pump in the near future, too. Can't beat it for the fact that the engines are for the most part bulletproof, and they are great overall cars. B)

Pretty durable motors yes. I was VERY surprised when I heard her knocking. Not something that happens to many Duratec's.

On a side note, got almost everything electircal disconnected from the motor this afternoon. Only had a couple hours and I just HAD to do something to it today. Now I'm off to work for 12 hours. Joy!

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First off, I'm a new member just wanna say hello.... Hello.

Have a 2000 Taurus SEL w/ Duratec sitting dead in my garage for the past year...its off the ground btw. Bought it for fair price, bad dealer. Two months after I bought it, 13 days after their warranty expired, it started knocking. Rod bearing. Drove it for over 18 months , knocking and all, till it died. Thankfully I was on my street and coasted to the driveway. Cash has been tight with children and whatnot, so I haven't been able to fix it. Can't part with the car, its immaculate! Fully loaded w/ leather.

Well here I am now, with a complete donor 2000 Taurus with the Duratec, only the transmission is shot. Perfect for what I need. Not only do I get a motor with only 86k on it, but all the spares I'm gonna need as well; starter, alt., pwr steering pump, and so on.

I'm gonna be doing this job primarily solo, just looking for the best way to remove the engines. Ford mechanics I know said they would do it at home thru the top, but they aren't helping me out with labor charges. I've read that people have done it at home with hand tools. I've worked in plenty of these cars all the back to 2nd Gen.

Time is not an object really, but it would help to have it done ASAP. Any input on how to go about this would greatly help.

If I drop the motor thru the bottom, can I leave the AC system intact and just hang from the radiator supports, to avoid discharging the system?

Congrats on your project.

Either luck of good engineering to match a '00. They are one year only engine setup. COP and offset water pump.

Send some pics when you get a chance and share with others.

-chart-

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Pretty durable motors yes. I was VERY surprised when I heard her knocking. Not something that happens to many Duratec's.

On a side note, got almost everything electircal disconnected from the motor this afternoon. Only had a couple hours and I just HAD to do something to it today. Now I'm off to work for 12 hours. Joy!

12 hour work day? I feel ya. Used to put in 14-16 a day 5 days a week. I don't miss it laugh.gif

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I did a swap in my 04 just a few months ago here the link maybe it will help you out a bit. gotta love these cars. mine took about 2 to 3 weeks to do. i had a lot of unexpected things happen that took a lot of time to get around. like trying to get a connecting rod out the side of the block. and trying to get a pulley off that seemed like it was welded in....

http://www.taurusown...etail-overkill/

feel free to ask for help. when in doubt....

Edited by BIGCJ

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Have decided its going out the top as well as everything else. Found quite a bit of rust, which is par for the course in NE Ohio, and I'm gonna redo the engine compartment. Since I have it down and I'm not pressed for time, why not. Looks like I'm replacing the tranny cooler lines, 2 brake lines and possibly the master cylinder, and radiator since the fittings are rusted to shi.tt The more I take out, the more in gonna have to replace.. With everything out of the vehicle, I'm gonna undercoat everything to prevent more rust. Its gonna be a project but I'm psyched its actually all in motion now.

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Sorry its been a while, haven't had any time to work on the car or post for that matter. My apologies.

So...over the last week I was able to go to the garage and work a couple hours here and there. The bad motor was pulled today. Total estimated 10 man hours, by myself for that matter. @ BIGCJ, I feel ur pain doing it all alone. Hardest part about taking it out was probably removing the Y pipe since the bolts were rusted and destroyed. Ended up needing craftsman bolt removers. After I got that disconnected, splitting the engine and tranny was seeming impossible. After literally 3 hours of prying and hammering, they finally split right apart.

Tomorrow I'm going to start removing the engine from the donor car. This time I will be removing the powertrain from the bottom, dropping the subframe. Basically a trial, see what's more logical I guess. Plus I have to do this in my driveway, middle of November,so its gonna be cold and possibly raining. Going thru the bottom has got to be faster. I've been looking at what its going to take and it looks to be easier, people have said its easier, hell, even the damn chiltons book says go thru the bottom. Either way, the motor is going in my car thru the top.

BTW, I'll post pics when I get to a computer. Been posting from my phone and this website isn't playing nice with my android browser. Will post more tomorrow as I get things done on the next car.

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You should have just got it as high in the air as you could and dropped the engine and transaxle as one unit.

Put the good tranny on the good engine then stuck it back in.

That's how it would be done if you were paying someone to do it.

Mike

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Oh man Y pipe was a pain. My torch wasn't getting hot enough. i had to freeze them off with some stuff from advance. you seems like you had better luck with your engine then i did.

Depending on your tools and space. its not always the best to pull it out the bottom.

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@mwt... ideally yeah I should have gone thru the bottom. But I couldn't get the car high enough. Not enough space. I actually had to lower the car all the way to the ground to pull it. Plus I'm doing this by myself and dropping the subframe isn't something I felt strongly about doing alone.

@BIGCJ ... yes the y pipe sucks. Don't wanna have to do it again let alone put it back together. All I did tho was remove the bolts connecting it to he rear manifold, and dropped the entire exhaust. But yes as far as bleeding everywhere, I didn't experience any of that mess. Everything went real smooth. No broken nuts/bolts other than the y pipe.

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@mwt... ideally yeah I should have gone thru the bottom. But I couldn't get the car high enough. Not enough space. I actually had to lower the car all the way to the ground to pull it. Plus I'm doing this by myself and dropping the subframe isn't something I felt strongly about doing alone.

@BIGCJ ... yes the y pipe sucks. Don't wanna have to do it again let alone put it back together. All I did tho was remove the bolts connecting it to he rear manifold, and dropped the entire exhaust. But yes as far as bleeding everywhere, I didn't experience any of that mess. Everything went real smooth. No broken nuts/bolts other than the y pipe.

Pro has this one car garage. It is really tall to the hoist. He told me, they drop the subframe, and then lift the car off the engine/tranny. Quicker and less labor.

Not many people have that much overhead to have a hoist to do that, but it sounds like a nice plan for the pro.

-chart-

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