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My sable is G-4, so I can confirm it works.

And I have heard of some RIDICULOUS pricing on battery/Alt replacements on new cars in the last few years. And not just new cars. Older ones too. It's like the mechanics know that people are becoming more and more scared to work on their own cars.

Definitely glad I'm mechanically inclined enough to do the bulk of my own work, even if I just need a little help on how.

SubFrameBolt_zps01cd624c.jpg

Sub frame bolts need to be removed every 8 years or so you do not have what is in the pic. Rusted one from '01, better from the JY pickup.

There is a car sitting in our local grocery with the rear of the subframe on the pavement. Been there several days. Not a bull but just the same, it is a maint item in my op. So, while up on ramps, and the air dam is off, I run mine out one at a time with electric impact, wire brush the threads, and grease the shanks. Makes me feel better. For my part, loosening the sub bolts is minor effort. Just my take.

Even bigger is getting the 3 wire connector unplugged and the other issues like the bolts. And then, getting the PS line support back on that thread was a pain. Ford could have at least made the 18MM nut a bit thicker, and the thread shorter. Ford has a thing for long bolts.

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Bonus: Your headlights produce a fresh, minty scent.

I save used bolts/nuts and also have a variety of metric automotive quality from Surplus City, buy by the pound long ago.   Helps when I loose something, or when I need to fix some damaged threads

Today's Project See pic, someone's lame fix. I have had the car 8 years and it is not my fix. It is heated and Silver Frost so little chance at the JY. Need to find some screws and I will have it

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While I'd rather jump in a telephone booth with a live alligator and tickle his @$$hole than own an Essex, I am a little jealous of the top mount Alt on the Vulcan.

 

 

I own two vehicles with the Essex. And I can say, the Essex is an amazing motor, and it'll destroy the Duratec in power and performance (When mated with the proper internals and supercharger :P )

 

And, I have had the honors of working on Essex, Vulcan, and Duratecs. I'll stay with Vulcan/Essex before I consider a Duratec.

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While I'd rather jump in a telephone booth with a live alligator and tickle his @$$hole than own an Essex, I am a little jealous of the top mount Alt on the Vulcan.

That comparison was... oddly specific. :ph34r:

:P

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  • 4 weeks later...

HLpaint_zps4fcdf118.jpg

My frist experiment with this. HL is prone to water so it is not in use. Lots of check cracks and yellow. I removed the yellow with household ammonia and rag. When dry for sure, I used rattle can clear coat. Gonna let it sit outside for a while to see if it holds up to the elements.

Did a quick spray in the wind so not the neatest job, just a quick and dirty test.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some Tran Fluid maint on used '03 Wagon DOHC, just for comparison.

Used vac pump and vacuum jug to remove 5.5 Q or fluid and replace with the vent cap off.

TranFlWgn1_zps1a70089e.jpg

TranFlWgn2_zps6ad9d0c0.jpg

TranFlWgn3_zps823a9f0a.jpg

First fluid as it was removed, second after first exchange, last after exchange #2.

Of course, I do not have a sample of what is in it now as it has not been run and a sample taken yet.

Pics are small clear cups filled to 30mm depth as measured from outside.

Small LED flashlight in vice, cup resting on the flashlight.

For me, color counts, or rather clarity of fluid is some measure. Car has 100K on it. Doubt it was ever serviced. '03 Sable Wagon, DOHC. Trans shifts great before and after. No change. It is about saving my tran for years to come.

Fluid exchange takes maybe 20 minutes but some disposal of used fluid to do yet.

Total cost ~$50. Wallyworld Mercon V of course.

Now since this was exchange #3 then the cost is about $75 now. No more planned.

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Battery14_zps34d75348.jpg

 

Battery stuff. I do a test using a resistor that draws 14A average 13-11 Volts. Have heavy wires and good clamps and read volts at the power port inside. I test my battery in the fall. In the chart, same battery 3.5 years old vs new. Sams club bat. Starts well, no sign of issues but no way it was going into winter. Secong battery, the green one new WM just put in. I only ran it down for one hour as it clearly was the same trace. This also tells me about how long one could drive with the alt out.

 

I put the Fox Valley on the '03 wagon today, used keep alive through the power port and portable battery while hooking it up. No loss of memory.

Car was warm but not so the fans would come on with A/C off. Pulled the Alt fuse so no charging. The amps moved around a bit random and I relate that to the fuel pump. I took 10 readings and average the 9.1amps. This gives a cloo as how long I could drive with a dead alt. I checked the blower by this. Key on but no start =5A. Added blower which was EATC and added 1 to 14A depending on speed. HL was done with key off, just lights. Just sharin.

 

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WheelCenter3_zps506e5f6a.jpg

Today's project.

My Lin is starting to show some very minor corrosion on the caps.

This cap from the JY $2 rather hard life. Been in the dirt for a while.

I removed the clearcoat with paint remover. Sanded out the corrosion pits with 400G. Then sanded all over with 1500g.

Painted the emblem with paint pen. Buffed with a power buffing wheel. Did not plan to do it real careful. My clearcoat rattle can did not do well and I did not check it out on scrap first. Had to clean the nozzle and do over. Some spatter from first pass.

Plan to put this out behind the shop in the garden for the winter to see how it weathers. Sun and snow. Right beside my headlight which I clearcoated. Gonna see how that holds up.

Will report in the spring as to success, or fail.

"Failure is not a person, it is an event."

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Parts brands:

PCVbrands_zps1d4cbf00.jpg

New MC vs somewhat used AZ. Reason for removal later.

MC uses guides on both ends to center the spool while AZ just lets it fall wherever. This PCV valve is horizontal in use so it seems reasonable it should be guided near center. But what do I know, I am just the messenger.

PCVAZ2_zps0dbe96be.jpg

Insides of AZ, note steel spool, quality of finish much like a steel nail.

PCV_zps5d33d2ce.jpg

OK so PB rotated my pic for some reason. Here you see the spool with slots to meter air flow at idle, where high vacuum pulls the spool closed against the spring. Also note, the amber disc is a check valve prevent flow in the reverse direction. I do not know what that does, but Ford must have a reason or it would not be there. AZ does not have one. If AZ actually pulls the spool closed at idle, it has little to no flow as opposed to MC metering a specific orifice to regulate flow of crankcase purge. My logic tells me the plastic spool can shift much faster than the steel spool. Fast is good, but that is just op.

So, AZ is ~$5 at the store, and MC is ~$10 at Rockauto.

As to other brands, likely they have low cost suppliers who match the performance of low cost parts.

I put the MC in my '03 wagon, DOHC and it made the idle real nice. Took couple of trips for it to learn. So my '03 sedan was not so good with the AZ. Thus I switched it out.

Both valves cleaned well in mineral spirits and let dry.

Just sharing my exp.

 

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Chart,

 

That PCV looks near identical as the gen 5 PCV.  I swapped out the factory motorcraft PCV at around 55K with a BWD brand PCV and it looked identical to the motorcraft PCV that I took out.  It was not stamped motorcraft though....but just eyeballing it looked identical.  Obviously could not see the internals really....

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  • 4 weeks later...

G-4 grounding system.

PowerDist14_zps84fdc225.jpg

 

Sharing the grounding paths for G-4, might be the same for some previous but I do not know when they changed the HL to grounding switching.

Grounding for HL and cabing things like blower and such have a parallel path, one throught the engine block to the PCM grounding post, and the second through the fender into the body. Larger part passes through the engine and the ground from the rear of the engine to the firewall post, common to the PCM ground.

 

 

If you do the key on, not started, blower max, HL high beam, then measure volts from the ground post to the fender, and to the engine block, you should see ~80mv or less to the fender, ~40mv or less to the engine block. Positive post to the mega fuse bolt, ~40mv or less. This checks all but the positive cable to the starter.

 

The engine to firewall ground is rarely checked for condition. It is very important as it keeps the PCM ground to engine/sensors on a close potential.

My '03 has a double ground to the fender. I get 47 to the fender, 33 to the engine block, 36 to the mega fuse post. All mili volts.

My cables are in top notch condition. :nopity:

 

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O2S2c_zps7b885e7c.jpg

 

Took this for a reference for future use.

Gives idea of what to expect from S2 sensor 2 which is after the first cat.

S1 manages the fuel mix but it is not so clear what S2 does but it sets a code if it does not perform.

 

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Sensor 2 (after cat) is there to monitor performance of the converter directly upstream. Usually sets a P0420 Converter Performance Problem code if it's not working. The signal from the sensor should be consistently high (0.7-0.9v) as it signals no unburnt fuel left in the exhaust stream. A poorly performing or absent converter will cause a signal similar to the upstream sensor, varying from 0.1 to 0.9v that tells the computer there is not enough processing happening in the converter.

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Sensor 2 (after cat) is there to monitor performance of the converter directly upstream. Usually sets a P0420 Converter Performance Problem code if it's not working. The signal from the sensor should be consistently high (0.7-0.9v) as it signals no unburnt fuel left in the exhaust stream. A poorly performing or absent converter will cause a signal similar to the upstream sensor, varying from 0.1 to 0.9v that tells the computer there is not enough processing happening in the converter.

My simplified version according to Ford. The PCM compares the switching of S2 to S1 and that ratio must be less than 1. Thus the switching of S2 should be less than S1. Switching is the number of times it hits it's top and reverses. In my chart, S2 does not hit the top and switch much. That is good according to Ford. If S2 switches more than S1 it sets a code for cat performance.

 

 

 

-chart-

 

"In order to assess catalyst oxygen storage, the catalyst monitor counts front HO2S switches during part-throttle,

closed-loop fuel conditions after the engine is warmed-up and inferred catalyst temperature is within limits. Front

switches are accumulated in up to three different air mass regions or cells. While catalyst monitoring entry

conditions are being met, the front and rear HO2S signal lengths are continually being calculated. When the

required number of front switches has accumulated in each cell (air mass region), the total signal length of the rear

HO2S is divided by the total signal length of front HO2S to compute a catalyst index ratio. An index ratio near 0.0

indicates high oxygen storage capacity, hence high HC efficiency. A switch ratio near 1.0 indicates low oxygen

storage capacity, hence low HC efficiency. If the actual index ratio exceeds the threshold index ratio, the catalyst is

considered failed."

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  • 1 month later...

When the engine is running, the negavite power goes from the Alt through the engine block through the ground strap to the firewall common post with the PCM which is double grounded there.

 

Parallel path to the battery post and then the fender is longer path.

 

Wonder how many people ever check that ground strap?

 

Oh well.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

LampTest1_zpsb7pwsahx.jpg

LampTest2_zpsbmvxk3xp.jpg

LampTest3_zpsqpxcfzgb.jpg

Test setup to compare bulbs and housings.

One seen here off the car, looks ok but been polished a few times, maybe average for our location for 14 year old car.

Then used same bulb, Xvision with modest use.

Compare to one from '05 Sable at the JY yesterday, only cleaned with windex and soft towel.

Target 9 feet away, using light meter finding the peak light location.

250 ft candles for JY housing, 170 FtC for one off my car.

That is 47% more light with the same bulb.

 

Now bulbs. Used 47K miles factory OEM 200 with JY housing, 250 for Xvision = +25%.

 

Opinion: these cars get a bad rep for weak HL. I can see why.

I was surprised and happy to see such nice housings at the JY. In the North country, they are more likely to be sand blasted from winter road sand than damage from UV.

The early bird gets the worm/HL from the winter inflow of cars inventory. 7 windchill, but it was worth it.

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The junkyard here is reasonable on all prices, except headlamps. I can buy a ton of things for under $30. Headlights? Normally $45 a side. Guess they know which items are fast to be demolished and required by laws...

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The junkyard here is reasonable on all prices, except headlamps. I can buy a ton of things for under $30. Headlights? Normally $45 a side. Guess they know which items are fast to be demolished and required by laws...

 

Their published price $27.50, my ticket $16.00. Guess I got the senior discount.

My total with tax and env fee included.

I thought I was doing good out there in the single digit wind chill then see people older pushing wheel barrows in the snow.

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  • 3 weeks later...

My data on cables. My idea was to get a Lin Cont set from the JY and put on my ’03 Wagon. The layout is the same, battery, mega fuse, and starter. Got a nice set.

Testing on the shop floor, I used a battery, clips, and headlamp to put 4 amps through the cable, and then measure volts loss. In the pic, 14.5mv loss at the crimp and 4.0mv loss in the wire itself. Fender ground. Now note, the Lin cable approx twice the capacity of the Sable. The crimp is clean, no sign of corrosion. I soldered the wires to the clamp and get 0.2mv loss for 4.2mv loss over the whole. Similar for the larger, longer engine ground. Similar for the positive cable set. There is no measurable loss at the tab on the other end of the cables. I can measure 0.1ma with the meter. The other ends of the cables are soldered and crimped OEM.

On all 3 of my Sables, I have added aux fender grounds. By amp "lay on" meter, my cable carries 2x the amps of the OEM in parallel, similar length. The OEM is #8 and mine #10 so the OEM is 59% greater wire capacity. I am sure the issue is the crimp loss at the battery post clamp. Does not matter, the aux wire is easy. I soldered eyelets on my aux ground. See pic.

Soldering the cables is not easy. I clamped the wires in a vise, at the insulation to keep from melting the insulation. Used a propane torch with a fine point tip to heat at the wire ends. Used liquid soldering flux and 50/50 lead solder. After cooling I soaked the end in a cup of ammonia to neutralize any acid residue.

Ground6_zpsisii9ucz.jpgBatCableL_zpsd4gpm4tv.jpgBatCableS_zpsv0mtphio.jpg



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Rules for elect wire, load, length, heat.

Start with #10 copper.

1A at 1 foot, lose 1mv and heat is 1mw heat to dissipate.

More amps, more feet, and the volts loss goes up proportional.

Since we normally only use even numbers:

Each even number larger (smaller number) carries 60% more with the same volt loss.

So, #8= 1.6A at 1 foot, lose 1mv but watts is 2mw heat to dissipate.

Every 3 numbers doubles the capacity, but we do not usually use odd numbers.

sidebar: the 60% is not true math but good rule. Actual is 58.92%

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Rust preventing test.

RustTest14b_zpspqrwufeq.jpg

RustTest14c_zps4qflnyid.jpg

 

Found this under leaves and snow and put it up for melting. Will wash it off soon and evaluate how each treatment did.

The center cap is another test of clearcoat but not ready for evaluation yet.

 

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  • 4 months later...

Visual inspection is a good thing. Saves pain.

Pic is the only one in the set on the Lin Cont. Others fine. Tire shop today.

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  • 1 month later...

Modified my check of power distribution tests.

Anyone want to change any of this or it is confusing, just have at it.

 

Battery cable/wiring check

This should take about 5-10 minutes.

Tools. Digital VM, range 200MV to 2.0V.

Hood open.

  1. Key on (not start) Blower on high, lights high beam.
  2. Probe leads, Pos battery post to mega fuse (or older cars use post on fuse box) Not the cable ends, but, post to post to bridge the cable.
  3. Volts range ~100 mv or less. ( 0.10V or less)
  4. Neg bat post to engine metal 50 mv or less.
  5. Neg bat post to body metal 100 mv or less.

On the pos side, high reading = bad cable, or ends not good connection.

On the body ground (fender) high reading = bad cable or ends not good connection.

 

If you have a high number, then measure one step at a time; that is post to clamp, clamp to wire, wire to eyelet, eyelet to fender etc. Find the weak connection, and fix it.

 

On the negative side, the ground is split with one to the body, one to the engine block and then the ground strap from the block to the body near the passenger side firewall. Thus the body is double grounded. You need both. Engine strap to firewall is important as this is the ground to the PCM.

 

Ground strap test. Key off . Remove the battery ground to the fender from the fender. Turn HL on high beam. They should light normal. If not the ground strap from the block to the firewall/PCM post is bad. Clean the fender where the neg cable bolts on, put the ground cable back. Fix the ground strap. The ground strap keeps the PCM and engine block/Alt at the same ground level.

 

When the engine is running, the negative current path is mostly engine block-ground stap to the body, bat cable to fender is secondary.

 

Alternate test of ground strap: HL high, blower max, start engeine and idle in N.

Test volts engine block or Alt to the body common post for the ground strap/PCM. Max 75 mv.

 

pic of my data, Sable has Lin Cont cables, all cars have the bat post clamps soldered to the wire ends. Secondary ground from the neg clamp to the fender, #10 soldered eyelets.

post-1834-0-91126000-1458739611_thumb.jp

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Keys:

Lost my second key to the wagon. Key ring on the hook, flashlight, house key, no car key.

No idea where it went.

 

Spent $107 and 1.5 hours at the dealer getting a key made. Counter lady told me this:

Ford does not keep key codes for cutting the key beyond 10 years. Within 10 they can make a new key to fit the tumbler from a code.

After that, if you have no working key, they have to remove the cylinder and replace it. Pays to have a spare cut key even if generic. Thus you can keep the door and trunk lock and not have to remove the tumbler by force.

 

Went to put the new (working) key on my key ring and noted, the house key does not fit, the flashlight is from some insurance company so the key ring is not mine. Somebody has my key ring and I have someone's.

 

Life is a pain at times.

 

Key fob did not work this am. Have 2, one works one did not. Remove the battery, 3.07V so it is good. Used pencil eraser to clean the side and put it back. Programmed both and it works fine. But maybe not thinking, it maybe was not my key fob but went to someone else who owns the key ring I have. No idea who.

 

I am good but somebody is not.

 

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Ford does not keep key codes for cutting the key beyond 10 years. Within 10 they can make a new key to fit the tumbler from a code.

 

I got my brother the code for his '97 in 2007 so I guess he got lucky there. Not that it matters, never needed it and the car doesn't exist anymore.

 

Didn't know it was 10 years, I had always heard that they retained them back to 1997. Anyone with an '05 or '06 should probably see the dealer soon and get the code for future reference.

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I got my brother the code for his '97 in 2007 so I guess he got lucky there. Not that it matters, never needed it and the car doesn't exist anymore.

 

Didn't know it was 10 years, I had always heard that they retained them back to 1997. Anyone with an '05 or '06 should probably see the dealer soon and get the code for future reference.

I have 2 chip working keys, and one good cut but not programable. I should be good. Lin Cont has 3 keys from the factory. One is Valet key which stays in the glove box. My memory says it will not unlock the trunk but can drive the car. However unless the door button for the trunk is not locked, does not matter. You can program your 3rd chip key if you have 2 working chip keys.

 

My Sable sedan has 2 good keys, daughter uses one set and I keep a spare at the house.

 

However, not going to say the Ford counter gal knows the exact infomation. However she said they had cars come in on a rollback and they needed to pull the tumbler and replace it with new one and new key. Of course it will not work the door or trunk. Then they are stuck with a 2 key car, like the good old days. That is if they still have a cut key. Otherwise they would need to replace the whole lock set on the vehicle.

 

Not going to let that happen.

 

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