Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hey chart!

I have been looking for a good way to get the stuck rotors off the 07 forenza. What do you all think of this method? It involves the caliper bracket holes and common bolt Hardware. It presses the rotor off.

Has an anyone tried this? These rotors lack any service hole. Where you thread a bolt onto the disc and it pushes off the wheel hub.

Edited by thesavo
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 175
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Bonus: Your headlights produce a fresh, minty scent.

I save used bolts/nuts and also have a variety of metric automotive quality from Surplus City, buy by the pound long ago.   Helps when I loose something, or when I need to fix some damaged threads

Today's Project See pic, someone's lame fix. I have had the car 8 years and it is not my fix. It is heated and Silver Frost so little chance at the JY. Need to find some screws and I will have it

Posted Images

Hey chart! I have been looking for a good way to get the stuck rotors off the 07 forenza. What do you all think of this method? It involves the caliper bracket holes and common bolt Hardware. It presses the rotor off. Has an anyone tried this? These rotors lack any service hole. Where you thread a bolt onto the disc and it pushes off the wheel hub.

It would work but:

How about a big hammer?

Toss the rotor anyway.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Chart, do have any pics of the valve cover vent "fix" that you use on your DOHC Sables?

 

See pic, but last time I was at Autozone they had them in the help section for about $10.

 

-chart-

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Oil leak from pan on DOHC.

Hope someone else does this also and reports back.

PanLeak1_zpscdf4e16b.jpg

Remove one or two bolts at a time.

Clean oil off with kerosene in a cup.

Wipe dry.

Spray with brake cleaner and dry.

Put gasket sealer all around the bolt head.

Replace and tighten bolt.

PanLeak2_zpsaf13f2cb.jpg

Did all that are except those around the pulley end as they are not leaking.

Found Friday, the smell of burnt oil while sitting waiting for someone, and had the windows down.

When Home, put on ramps and found one bolt up front with a drip that falls right on the exhaust.

Most of the other bolts have drip of oil on them but they do not fall on the exhaust.

Did the sealer and drove 140+ Sat. No sign of oil on that bolt.

Did the other bolts today, and been driven 4 times since, no leaks.

 

There must be a catch, but I am waiting for someone to find it.

 

-chart-

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Oil leak from pan on DOHC.

Hope someone else does this also and reports back.

PanLeak1_zpscdf4e16b.jpg

Remove one or two bolts at a time.

Clean oil off with kerosene in a cup.

Wipe dry.

Spray with brake cleaner and dry.

Put gasket sealer all around the bolt head.

Replace and tighten bolt.

PanLeak2_zpsaf13f2cb.jpg

Did all that are except those around the pulley end as they are not leaking.

Found Friday, the smell of burnt oil while sitting waiting for someone, and had the windows down.

When Home, put on ramps and found one bolt up front with a drip that falls right on the exhaust.

Most of the other bolts have drip of oil on them but they do not fall on the exhaust.

Did the sealer and drove 140+ Sat. No sign of oil on that bolt.

Did the other bolts today, and been driven 4 times since, no leaks.

There must be a catch, but I am waiting for someone to find it.

-chart-

I think I might have 2 or 3 bolts leaking myself. I might have to try this.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Oil leak from pan on DOHC.

Hope someone else does this also and reports back.

PanLeak1_zpscdf4e16b.jpg

Remove one or two bolts at a time.

Clean oil off with kerosene in a cup.

Wipe dry.

Spray with brake cleaner and dry.

Put gasket sealer all around the bolt head.

Replace and tighten bolt.

PanLeak2_zpsaf13f2cb.jpg

Did all that are except those around the pulley end as they are not leaking.

Found Friday, the smell of burnt oil while sitting waiting for someone, and had the windows down.

When Home, put on ramps and found one bolt up front with a drip that falls right on the exhaust.

Most of the other bolts have drip of oil on them but they do not fall on the exhaust.

Did the sealer and drove 140+ Sat. No sign of oil on that bolt.

Did the other bolts today, and been driven 4 times since, no leaks.

 

There must be a catch, but I am waiting for someone to find it.

 

-chart-

OK now been 200 miles, 8 local trips today, looked under, and not a drip of oil on the pan or driveway. Can't believe it can be this easy.

 

This car before leaves half dollar size puddle under after every stop in my drive. I thought the drain plug was leaking as that is where it seems to gather.

 

-chart-

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's not a bad idea. I think my Thunderbird leaks a bit, I may have to try it with that method :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Example of my carchip recorder on my trip.

 

Date and time of day starting the leg.

Time of the trip, hr, min, sec.

Miles of the leg.

Max mph, red is over 72 mph.

Time over 72 mph.

Times hard brake

Times extreme brake

Times hard accel

Times extreme accel

 

-chart-

Link to post
Share on other sites

Chart do you have anymore info on the center caps for your Sables? I know on the other forum you posted an image of them repainted with a Dupli-Color spray paint. I'm looking to do the same with my center caps very soon. Any information on the color of the paint would be greatly appreciated!! 

I know this is old but, I now have traded cars and I have spare center caps. Have to look to see what kind, Taurus or Sable look.

 

Let me know, free for shipping.

 

-chart-

Link to post
Share on other sites

IACwagon03_zpsafaea2ed.jpg

 

This was put on my used wagon, last service before I bought it. Pepboys. I would bet it is just a used part, cleaned, OEM part # removed and relabeled. For the rest of us, check, double check, on what crooks are doing to us.

 

It is not really cleaned inside all that well. I switched it out for JY one I cleaned and tested. My cleaning is better than theirs. :notworthy:

But, then I CARE!

Just sharin!

 

And for many parts stores, lots of different IAC, same shape, same bolt pattern, different engine, different part. Do you really know if you get the right one for your engine? I'll take my chances at the JY with a real dirty one, no new part label, just OEM #.

You could put the Intech one on and I bet it would barely run.

 

-chart-

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Chart,

I work in parts and you'd be surprised at how many BWD parts are actually reboxed OEM parts. I've pulled both AC Delco and Motorcraft parts out of BWD boxes at work.

Jeff

Link to post
Share on other sites

Chart,

I work in parts and you'd be surprised at how many BWD parts are actually reboxed OEM parts. I've pulled both AC Delco and Motorcraft parts out of BWD boxes at work.

Jeff

 

When I replaced a few ignition coils a while back I went with BWD coils, as they were less expensive than Motorcraft branded ones. I've been very pleased with the quality and performance of the coils. I'm not surprised that they're the same! :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Some automakers use smaller suppliers for parts as it makes cost and quality controllable. The big brands like BWD are just a label on the box, they purchase the parts from the smaller supplier and resell it. Others import it from someplace far far away. It's a whole subcontracting and re-labeling thing. It's kind of like, for example, store brand potato chips. Except BWD does it without being a store brand. 

 

I remember back when I could buy a Goodyear belt at the local parts stores. Or even Bosch brake parts. I miss that.

Edited by Noluck4
Link to post
Share on other sites

GROUNDS:

 

Just saw this on another post, trucks.

 

"… it ended up being the grounding wire that grounds the cab to the frame the bolt was loose."

 

This after replacement of fuel pump, and FP driver module.

 

Just something to keep in mind about grounds and, check the little stuff first.

 

-chart-

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

DOHC Alt

AltBoltsMods_zps80da5d1b.jpg

Mods to bolts after I removed them. I used the spacer/nut for removal. Loosen the 18mm hex then add removal nut which is 13mm and works with my offset rachet box end. Craftsman. Nice tool, got mm and SAE sets. No 18 mm is included. When off, I made mods, shortening the threads and adding permanent nut for the shorter one. Locktite and very tight.

 

Alldata procdure is to remove crank puley but that is BS. From Nick the idea of lowering the sub works just fine. However a tip added. Do not lower the sub frame until the Alt is right down at the bottom ready to remove. Lowering the sub makes the gap from engine to fender closer and works against you. I used a jack under the sub for just the right lowering. As add on, I removed the sub bolts and replaced the front ones with non rusty from the JY. Fronts rust much worse.

 

Alldata says to remove the PS bolts and unbolt the PS resivor. I did remove the resivor and set it up out of the way a bit. Gives more access to the top of the alt for bolts. My tip, use masking tape on the hose clamps and any other catch point to reduce blood. I did follow the Alldata for part of this. I pulled the crank pos sensor connector as it gets in the way and could be damaged.

AltSaWh9-14b_zps34e7c768.jpg

 

AltSaWh9-14c_zps2948a6d8.jpg

I made a brief checklist on index card.

Long bolt in first.

Plug in the crank pos.

Put the O2 sensor wire bracket under lower bolt.

AltSaWh9-14_zps6acf70b6.jpg

Here is how far I got before lowering the sub. Close but no cigar. Yes, I watched the O2 sensor wire.

AltSable03_zps5787e01f.jpg

Old Alt, still working but had whine indicating, bad diode or broken wire in the field coil.The copper was within 0.005" of plastic assuming it is concentric. ASSUME?

 

Daughter drives this everyday, to work, grandkids to everything. It must go reliable or I get the CALL!

New battery at the same time I did the Alt. Old one 3.5 years. Must make it throught the winter.

 

-chart-

Link to post
Share on other sites
DOHC Alt

AltBoltsMods_zps80da5d1b.jpg

Mods to bolts after I removed them. I used the spacer/nut for removal. Loosen the 18mm hex then add removal nut which is 13mm and works with my offset rachet box end. Craftsman. Nice tool, got mm and SAE sets. No 18 mm is included. When off, I made mods, shortening the threads and adding permanent nut for the shorter one. Locktite and very tight.

Alldata procdure is to remove crank puley but that is BS. From Nick the idea of lowering the sub works just fine. However a tip added. Do not lower the sub frame until the Alt is right down at the bottom ready to remove. Lowering the sub makes the gap from engine to fender closer and works against you. I used a jack under the sub for just the right lowering. As add on, I removed the sub bolts and replaced the front ones with non rusty from the JY. Fronts rust much worse.

Alldata says to remove the PS bolts and unbolt the PS resivor. I did remove the resivor and set it up out of the way a bit. Gives more access to the top of the alt for bolts. My tip, use masking tape on the hose clamps and any other catch point to reduce blood. I did follow the Alldata for part of this. I pulled the crank pos sensor connector as it gets in the way and could be damaged.

AltSaWh9-14b_zps34e7c768.jpg

AltSaWh9-14c_zps2948a6d8.jpg

I made a brief checklist on index card.

Long bolt in first.

Plug in the crank pos.

Put the O2 sensor wire bracket under lower bolt.

AltSaWh9-14_zps6acf70b6.jpg

Here is how far I got before lowering the sub. Close but no cigar. Yes, I watched the O2 sensor wire.

AltSable03_zps5787e01f.jpg

Old Alt, still working but had whine indicating, bad diode or broken wire in the field coil.The copper was within 0.005" of plastic assuming it is concentric. ASSUME?

Daughter drives this everyday, to work, grandkids to everything. It must go reliable or I get the CALL!

New battery at the same time I did the Alt. Old one 3.5 years. Must make it throught the winter.

-chart-

Since I installed the 2" pulley I've noticed a wine from my Alt. It still works, charges great. Should I be concerned?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Since I installed the 2" pulley I've noticed a wine from my Alt. It still works, charges great. Should I be concerned?

I have had 2 whiners that started all of the sudden. One '96 Lin, found a "not soldered" diode. I cleaned and soldered the joint and whine went away. This one has been that way for a year. Still charged well but likely the only real issue was the slip ring, well into it's last roundup. Brush was maybe half of it's usefull ness.

 

With my new one, 700 rpm idle in gear, HL bright, blower max on A/C get 13.6V which is really good. Overdirve pulley of no use on this.

 

If the while does not get worse, or does not bother you inside the car, no harm. You can live without one diode and charge for years. This slip ring near done out in 125K is a mile marker for me. If I was not selling my '01 With 129K I would be changing it out for security. I have a JY one in good shape, and regulators for both kinds of use.

 

You likely went from 2.995 pulley to 2.105 which is common for 1.42 ratio up in speed.

 

-chart-

Link to post
Share on other sites
I have had 2 whiners that started all of the sudden. One '96 Lin, found a "not soldered" diode. I cleaned and soldered the joint and whine went away. This one has been that way for a year. Still charged well but likely the only real issue was the slip ring, well into it's last roundup. Brush was maybe half of it's usefull ness.

With my new one, 700 rpm idle in gear, HL bright, blower max on A/C get 13.6V which is really good. Overdirve pulley of no use on this.

If the while does not get worse, or does not bother you inside the car, no harm. You can live without one diode and charge for years. This slip ring near done out in 125K is a mile marker for me. If I was not selling my '01 With 129K I would be changing it out for security. I have a JY one in good shape, and regulators for both kinds of use.

You likely went from 2.995 pulley to 2.105 which is common for 1.42 ratio up in speed.

-chart-

I'm not sure if you remember, but it's a high output Alt. It originally came with a 2.5"pulley, but due to the construction of ** alts, it wouldn't charge at idle very well. So I ordered and installed a 1.9" pulley. Had to modify the Alt casing a bit, but it's on and charging at idle now. Both on board batteries are holding a good charge without having to plug them in at night now.

But to the point, I'll take your word on it. I'll let it ride until it dies.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ughhhhh.... What a nightmare... So glad I don't own a Duratec... Very good info though :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ughhhhh.... What a nightmare... So glad I don't own a Duratec... Very good info though :)

While I'd rather jump in a telephone booth with a live alligator and tickle his @$$hole than own an Essex, I am a little jealous of the top mount Alt on the Vulcan.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure if you remember, but it's a high output Alt. It originally came with a 2.5"pulley, but due to the construction of ** alts, it wouldn't charge at idle very well. So I ordered and installed a 1.9" pulley. Had to modify the Alt casing a bit, but it's on and charging at idle now. Both on board batteries are holding a good charge without having to plug them in at night now.

But to the point, I'll take your word on it. I'll let it ride until it dies.

One other thing, if dropping the subframe is your style, by all means, don't let me stop you. But I did run across a video on YouTube on how to change an Alt on a Duratec that only requires removing the wheel and some plastics. If you follow his instructions on when and how to flip it, twist it, and roll it, it comes out. I've used the method a few times now, and am confident I could swap an Alt in less than 2 hours, even though the book calls for 6.

Thanks for the tips!

Alldata calls 2.2 hrs.

I saw U-Tube G-3 done with some twisting. Drop the sub is rather simple for me. Of course I do not time my work. Wife called and needed to meet her to switch cars with the Corolla lady. Then coffee, then eat, then snack, then TV etc. Not sure you can twist it out on G-4. If you need to do this every 125K miles, no big deal.

 

Talked to guy Thurs with a Bug Diesel. Cost $1500 to do the alt. Had to remove front body stuff, and the timing belt. Not sure the price indluded the Alt.

Neighbor with Pirus and it was ~$400+ labor to do the engine start bat. Not related to the hybrid bat. No FREE bat install, only dealer job.

 

-chart-

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Alldata calls 2.2 hrs.

I saw U-Tube G-3 done with some twisting. Drop the sub is rather simple for me. Of course I do not time my work. Wife called and needed to meet her to switch cars with the Corolla lady. Then coffee, then eat, then snack, then TV etc. Not sure you can twist it out on G-4. If you need to do this every 125K miles, no big deal.

Talked to guy Thurs with a Bug Diesel. Cost $1500 to do the alt. Had to remove front body stuff, and the timing belt. Not sure the price indluded the Alt.

Neighbor with Pirus and it was ~$400+ labor to do the engine start bat. Not related to the hybrid bat. No bat install, only dealer job.

-chart-

My sable is G-4, so I can confirm it works.

And I have heard of some RIDICULOUS pricing on battery/Alt replacements on new cars in the last few years. And not just new cars. Older ones too. It's like the mechanics know that people are becoming more and more scared to work on their own cars.

Definitely glad I'm mechanically inclined enough to do the bulk of my own work, even if I just need a little help on how.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...