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Bonus: Your headlights produce a fresh, minty scent.

I save used bolts/nuts and also have a variety of metric automotive quality from Surplus City, buy by the pound long ago.   Helps when I loose something, or when I need to fix some damaged threads

Today's Project See pic, someone's lame fix. I have had the car 8 years and it is not my fix. It is heated and Silver Frost so little chance at the JY. Need to find some screws and I will have it

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Weird looking filter.

The '01 is a semi return, fuel to the filter and returns when the pressure relief hits the desired pressure which is done inside the filter.

Return is the larger line so little to no backpressure.

 

It seems dumb to add a replacement bracket to this one year. My '03 Sable and '02 Lin use a hose clamp and no bracket replacement.

When I first saw my '01 I knew removal of the bracket was not in the cards. Likely twist the bolt off if I could get to it.

 

Just thought this might help other '01 owners.

 

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Solder1_zps81333d62.jpg

My take on solder. I taught this in school and required all students to do a good job. So guess I am sort of expert. I use really cheap elect solder iron, can be had Walmart for ~$10. This one in the pic I bought on expense for a road job maybe 20 years ago and used it hundred of times. When I wear out the tip from filing it will get another like it. I would never try to solder without soldering paste. As shown can be had at Lowes. When the iron tip gets just hot enough to sizzle in the paste, I wipe it off with old cotton glove and tin it with solder. Ready to go. After a couple uses, it needs a new file to keep the shape as the copper erodes and corrodes. Best for elect casual use 60/40 solder, small size wire best. For perfection 63/37 but expensive and hard to find as that alloy is perfection. For convenience, I pull off a couple feet of solder and wrap it around 2 fingers to make a convenient holding and use and put the spool on a hook where I can find it. I got a 1# spool 60/40 .041 dia at the surplus center for about $7 and it will last me a lifetime and maybe the grandsons too. When ready to solder wire, melt a pool of solder on the iron to help conduct heat to the copper wire. Point contact of iron to wire is useless.

 

Happy soldering.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Alternator and charging system. This for 130A alt.

 

ChargingDiag_zpsacfbed8e.jpg

 

Charging_zpsbbcc154a.jpg

ON cars that use alt output trimming the LB/RD wire changes volts to trim the output level. Trims for temperature, time since starting, starting, WOT. Cars which do not trim will have the LB/RD grounded and will always be "0". Some V-8 engines do not connect to the center terminal of the regulator and do not trim or ground. I presume if a wire is connected it will be grounded or trimmed, if no wire is connected the regulator acts as if it is grounded. As to which Bulls trim and which do not, hard to tell. My '03 does according to Alldata. My Lin cont does not. Obvious since there is no wire.

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VacLeakDetc_zpsb621c27e.jpg

 

My vacuum leak detect tool.

Propane tourch with the jet and nozzle removed, plastic hose and length of antenna tube from scrap radio.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fog Lights.

FogHL14_zpsfc05dc9b.jpg

If you want your fogs to be available, anytime your lights are on, parking, low, high: G-4 diagram.

Add the relay shown at the bottom of the pic, add wires shown in red, cut the existing wire from the existing relay.

Existing relay is in relay box behind the battery on G-4 cars. Relay can be located free standing behind the driver's side HL.

Wire to cut is the RD/BK from the relay center, and the new wire connects to the wire from the relay, and old wire leading to the HL low beam will be capped. Tap the parking light hot wire where ever you find it. And pick the PK and not the turn signal wire.

Connect a ground to one side of the NO contacts and to one side of the coil.

Have not done it, just a passing thought.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just posting for whatever. I made this for a future reference. Used Carchip recorder and put data into XL spreadsheet.

 

SableChart14_zps28f90360.jpg

Fuel pressure dances around a lot. Looked at the Lin Cont, same pattern. Guess that is normal.

Also a peek at how the engine temp control is working in cold weather.

I know my '01 DOHC does not have pressure sensor but likely '02 and later do.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

FuelTrims14_zpsaa49fdef.jpg

Did a data record with my Carchip and put the data into XL spreadsheet. Thus short and long term fuel trims for a car that I think is running perfect for an old DOHC 126K and 13 years old. This from two day sitting, single digits overnight and up to low teens when this run was done.

Short term trims take the place of old school choke for cold starting. By less than 1 minute the trims are at running levels. One more reason I do not let mine idle when started cold. Start and drive is my way. I get enough crankcase water with this and usual short trips in cold weather without adding the idling fuel dillution and slow warming.

Long term terms go well negative on long coast. No need for fuel for coasting, but not full cutoff like the Lin.

 

If there was any vacuum leak, then the short term would go well positive at idle and back to normal under load.

 

My '03 DOHC runs more negative at all times than this, and my Lin more positive at all times than this. It is what it is. It ain't broke. No reason to worry about the trivia. Enough real issues to take up my time.

 

No surprise that I find a chart tells much more than text or tabular data.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Tranny Cooler option.

 

The '95-'02 Lin Cont used a combination PS/Tranny cooler, fin type, 3 tubes. Looks like one tube for PS and 2 for tranny.

 

These cars are old enough to be in the JY. Looks like a really nice package. Ends are hose clamped rubber hose.

Should not be any issue adapting to Bulls.

 

For what it is worth.

 

Brackets fasten to the area of the air dam. 22" long approx, top tube staight through. Lower two tubes are "U" on the pas side and in and out on the driver's side.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

PlugFail3_zps971e5a85.jpg

 

I am going to say, I have found the source. The plug and wire one year old, wire Motorcraft. Replacing OEM wires with the same fail carbon tracking on the Autolite plug.

 

If I put that wire on that plug, it is "loose as a goose". Any other plug and it is tight. Something about this plug does not latch, it is like it is too long and goes past the spring points. It is normal hard to put on, but then it is floppy and I can spin it in the wire. I have about a dozen old plugs, this is the only one that is loose in that wire. I have the OEM plugs from the LIn, they are all tight in this wire.

 

I do not like unsolved mystery.

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U-Tube of drum brake wheel cylinder replace with frozen line to the cylinder.

I have done this maybe 13 years ago and again 3 years ago but not seen this before.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcJQa9kh_js

 

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Importance of filter

FilterWag14_zpsd332ce81.jpg

 

6 months ~2500 miles, all winter short trips. Punched hole in bottom, punched hole in check valve on top, let it drain out in my change pan couple days.

Punched hole in side, cut the hole out spiral cut with snips.

cut out a section of filter.

 

 

Filters14b_zps65c880fc.jpg

Blotted the oil a bit with paper towel, upper blot is dirty side of filter.

Put filter sample in kerosene for couple hours and then dryed the filter sample in the sun. Under 30 power, could not find any sign of metal. Just sludge. The sludge in the kero did not settle to the bottom, so it is very fine stuff, but still caught in filter.

 

From the appearance of the filter, it was pushed to it's limit. Oil did not look all that bad.

 

My take: you can pay for long life oil but: sludge is sludge, does not care about kind of oil.

Filter is KING in short trip drives.

Open road drive is different story.

 

Just sharin!

 

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Importance of filter

FilterWag14_zpsd332ce81.jpg

6 months ~2500 miles, all winter short trips. Punched hole in bottom, punched hole in check valve on top, let it drain out in my change pan couple days.

Punched hole in side, cut the hole out spiral cut with snips.

cut out a section of filter.

Filters14b_zps65c880fc.jpg

Blotted the oil a bit with paper towel, upper blot is dirty side of filter.

Put filter sample in kerosene for couple hours and then dryed the filter sample in the sun. Under 30 power, could not find any sign of metal. Just sludge. The sludge in the kero did not settle to the bottom, so it is very fine stuff, but still caught in filter.

From the appearance of the filter, it was pushed to it's limit. Oil did not look all that bad.

My take: you can pay for long life oil but: sludge is sludge, does not care about kind of oil.

Filter is KING in short trip drives.

Open road drive is different story.

Just sharin!

-chart-

So is there a type of filter you would recommend? I typically use fram, but this time I used k&n due to the hex head on the top of it. Didnt want a repeat of shoving a screwdriver through the side of the filter....

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Never use Fram, pretty much anything is better than the orange can of death. Motorcraft is very good and for the price why not use the factory filter.

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Never use Fram, pretty much anything is better than the orange can of death. Motorcraft is very good and for the price why not use the factory filter.

Good to know. Price difference for the K&N is (surprisingly) negligible. Think I'll stick with that.

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So is there a type of filter you would recommend? I typically use fram, but this time I used k&n due to the hex head on the top of it. Didnt want a repeat of shoving a screwdriver through the side of the filter....

Ford says it is the thing to use, cheap at Wallyworld, I bought 10 last time. Point is, important to change it. How often, depends on your time/miles and kind of driving. It would not matter much who's filter, this kind of driving is really ******* filters.

Back in the late 90's, we took a 3000-3600 mile round trip in ~10 days, every other month. Usually changed oil and filter just before each trip. Oil would be so clear after a trip you could not tell it from new. Color does matter.

 

And then Vulcans use a smaller filter, and less oil volume. This is a big filter, same as the Intech.

 

There was a time they recommended changing the filter every other oil change. That sounds like a bad idea.

One sidenote: I think I mashed the pleats while cutting the hole with my cutters. Do not think the pleats in the filter looked like that before I opened it up.

 

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I believe the larger FL 1A or whatever filter fits the Vulcan but being as tight as a space as it is, your going to make an even bigger mess than with the normal sized filter.

A quick look inside any filter will tell you if it's decent or not, Fram filters use a lot of cardboard in place of metal. I personally don't want a filter made of cardboard cleaning my engines oil. Fram somehow claims that it's better but I don't buy it.

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Interesting to see that Purolator doesn't have that string tied around the filter element anymore.

 

I believe the larger FL 1A or whatever filter fits the Vulcan but being as tight as a space as it is, your going to make an even bigger mess than with the normal sized filter.

Correct, the FL-1A and FL-400S have the same threads and sealing surface so they do interchange where there's room.

 

However, the 400 has a silicone anti-drainback valve (hence the "S" suffix) which the FL-1A is not available with as far as I know.

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  • 2 weeks later...

ATFchange_zps0cb2d2b1.jpg

Tran fluid exchange. 6Q out 6Q in.

Takes about 2 min to get 2Q out.

Jack up the pas rear to get the max out.

Lower it to add fluid back.

This is first in line of my stable, the Lin uses a different vent cap so no need to remove it.

For the Sables, I will for sure remove the cap for less pain in the refill.

I rob the muffler from my air compressor to keep it quiet.

Keep a pic to remind me how I did it for next exchange. One exchange per year.

-chart-

 

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Chart do you have anymore info on the center caps for your Sables? I know on the other forum you posted an image of them repainted with a Dupli-Color spray paint. I'm looking to do the same with my center caps very soon. Any information on the color of the paint would be greatly appreciated!! 

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Chart do you have anymore info on the center caps for your Sables? I know on the other forum you posted an image of them repainted with a Dupli-Color spray paint. I'm looking to do the same with my center caps very soon. Any information on the color of the paint would be greatly appreciated!! 

I used Dupli-Color High perfomrancd wheel coating. I Just looked at the spray can.

 

And I have 4 spare center caps and 4 spare wheels. Since I am in the lookin for another wagon, if I get one and it has a different wheel, I will switch to the 7 spoke so both my Sables have the same wheel types. I put the new tires on the '03 for my daughter, and my wagon gets the "hand me downs". Was going to give away two of the spares but then had a chance to get one more and I did, now have a set of 4 so I will keep them. Good property for old coot with 8 of them on the road.

 

I am happy with the spary paint on the caps.

 

Last week I took the best lookin one shown in the pic to complete my set. Cost me $21 total as the price of scrap is up. Core price now $10.

 

-chart-

post-1834-0-59290400-1401738076_thumb.jp

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Cleaning14_zpse4771edf.jpg

My cleaning of floor mats, from the '03 Sable.

Used power washer with the spinning head, makes patterns and they stay that way when dry. Hanging them lets the dirty water drain out.

I do both till the dirt stops draining out, then flip them end for end and continue. Sun dry.

And you might guess, the wife likes flowers.

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  • 5 weeks later...

O2 experience on '01 DOHC wagon

O2Wagon7-14_zpsae536964.jpg

 

OK yesterday got a CEL ~400 miles into a 500 mile day. Not a pleasant surprise.

Ran a carchip recording today on O2, S2.

From the chart you can see the old one still works a little, but it is lazy and done. It's mate was new a while back.

Should have done both at the same time. Plan to sell this car. Still will put a new sensor on tomorrow. It is Bank 2 which is the easy one to do. I will then run a repeat of this run and share.

 

Somehow I expected to see S1 fail first, not S2 but live and learn.

Just sharing.

 

-chart-

O2wagonFix_zps7984091a.jpg

So got a used one at the JY this am while getting a donut spare. Put it in, did a short test drive.

Maybe slight less volts swing than a new one but think it is much better. CEL went out on it's own before doing this.

 

-chart-

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  • 2 weeks later...

HLrelay14_zps4192d5dd.jpg

Removed my HL relay system intact, except had to cut the red wire at the pas side to remove it.

Way it was wired, did not disturb the factroy harness on the car in any way.

Will install on my mewer wagon sometime. Just hot wire, ground wire, and splice the red wire to the pas side.

HeadLampRelay_zpsd4c3b7be.jpg

Basic diagram but does not show where the wires were spliced in. All on the dust caps of the lamps.

Best I can remember gets me +1.7V at the lamps.

 

-chart-

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