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I save used bolts/nuts and also have a variety of metric automotive quality from Surplus City, buy by the pound long ago.

BoltsSpares_zps5ab821d3.jpg

 

Helps when I loose something, or when I need to fix some damaged threads. Note the 1/2" lug nut, split with a hack saw and used to fix some damaged lug stud sometime. Split a sacrafice nut and mend damaged threads, slit a bolt and use as a one time tap to freshen a nut. Castle nut on backwards makes a thread fixer like on a ball joint or tie rod end stud.

 

Upper box all metric, lower box mostly SAE/fraction. And that is not all of them, but general larger automotive.

 

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ThreadsChase_zps622ac36d.jpg

 

The bolt here is to clean the threads of my 4 jaw chuck on the lathe. Chips and stuff gets in the jaw threads and gets stuck. I use this to chase out the stuck chips. The chuck is hardened so no way to run a tap through.

 

On the sawing a nut through, you can open it a tick with a screw driver in the slot to help it get started if the threads are damaged at the end, then squeeze it with vice grips to make it clean up it's stud.

 

 

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Bonus: Your headlights produce a fresh, minty scent.

I save used bolts/nuts and also have a variety of metric automotive quality from Surplus City, buy by the pound long ago.   Helps when I loose something, or when I need to fix some damaged threads

Today's Project See pic, someone's lame fix. I have had the car 8 years and it is not my fix. It is heated and Silver Frost so little chance at the JY. Need to find some screws and I will have it

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I save used bolts/nuts and also have a variety of metric automotive quality from Surplus City, buy by the pound long ago.

Helps when I loose something, or when I need to fix some damaged threads. Note the 1/2" lug nut, split with a hack saw and used to fix some damaged lug stud sometime. Split a sacrafice nut and mend damaged threads, slit a bolt and use as a one time tap to freshen a nut. Castle nut on backwards makes a thread fixer like on a ball joint or tie rod end stud.

Upper box all metric, lower box mostly SAE/fraction. And that is not all of them, but general larger automotive.

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Thats a neat idea with the castle nut.

Are the green twist-ties to things organized by matching threads?

How does the hacksaw-split-nut thing work. I have an idea, but I need a visual. Same with the cut bolt.

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Sockets8-13_zps2cc510e6.jpg

 

Garage sale tools are cheap and OK. I do not go out of my way much, but on the way home from the gas station, fillup this am, stopped at this mostly trash sale. Got this for $3. Crescent brand, looks ok. 5 metric and 5 fractions.

 

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ErrCodeReady_zps621f190b.jpg

 

Ready status for inspection, my scan tool does this. Yellow says no codes but "not ready".

The circles are black when OK blinking when not drive cycle ready.

 

OBD-II Monitor Exercised Drive Cycle Procedure

Drive Cycle Preparation

1. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds.

2 Drive at (40 MPH) until ECT is at least (170 F). (coolant temp).

3. Is Inlet Air Temp within (40 to 100 F)?

HEGO

4. Cruise at (40 MPH) for Up To 4 minutes. Executes the HEGO monitor.

EVAP

5 Cruise at (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Gas tank 1/4 to 3/4 full.

Catalyst

6. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period. Executes the Catalyst Monitor.

EGR

7. From a stop, accelerate to (45 MPH) at ½ to ¾ throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor.

SEC AIR/CCM

(Engine)

8. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive for 2 minutes. Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.

CCM (Trans Auto)

9. From a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at (40 MPH), activate overdrive and accelerate to (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 9 five times. Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.

Misfire&Fuel Monitors

10. From a stop, accelerate to (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times. Allows learning for the misfire monitor.

 

My simplified list to relearn the PCM.

From the code, tells me which ones to do. Drive local couple of days and most will set by normal driving. For me, the EVAP is the slow to do and I have to do by special driving. EV on the scanner.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Struts. My pic of how I did it. This on '02 Lin Cont, very close to G-4 Taurus/Sables. I did both sides of '03 Sable with quick struts. Quite similar.

StrutLin1_zps7ddd14bc.jpg

Removing the tie rod end. This one not very tight, Sable very tight. This one fell out without hammering.

StrutLin2_zpsbf87f5cf.jpg

Arrows to things I removed, note: not clear, I pulled the bolt from the lower control arm to subframe and put a wire through the hole to get some extra movement, but not allowing it get out place. Others people do not remove the brake disk and caliper, but it makes more room and less weight to be pounded down to get the spindle down the strut.

StrutLin3_zps78131668.jpg

Removing the strut from the spindle. Pipe is critical here. I lean on it then tap the spindle with a thumper. I loosen the top nuts, removing the one toward the inside. This allows the strut to swing out at the bottom

StrutLin4_zpse9827245.jpg

New strut in place, and checklist for tightening. Reverse of removing, in that, I use only 2 nuts, outboard side snug but not tight. Swing the spindle top out, strut bottom out, engage with the tab aligned with the split and push hard, rolling it into place. Checklist two times to not forget anything. 

 

Also, I use a second cheap floor jack under the ball joint, jack up to align the hole in the tab with the one in the spindle for pinch bolt pass through. Then jack up some more to get the sway bar link to align with the hole in the strut.

 

Any comments and suggestions welcome.

 

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Wow a Plastic sway bar end link on a Lincoln, Chart that needs to go.

Got 3 car with original links. '01 124 miles, '03 111K miles and the Lin '02 57K miles.

All are solid, no sounds, no slack.

Last '02 Lin 101K miles, end links sound.

At the first sign of wear, they can be heard if one pays attention. I do.

If it ain't broke, or worn, no reason to fix it.

 

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I just can't believe that they put those garbage links on a Lincoln product, that is major cost cutting on Fords part in the factory.

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I just can't believe that they put those garbage links on a Lincoln product, that is major cost cutting on Fords part in the factory.

So you are likely not willing to pay the higher price for replacement links in plastic.

They cost more on the aftermarket.

Rockauto 3 brands at the top of the price list use them.

 

I do not intend to replace mine as they will likely last the life of the car.

 

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Why would I ever buy a plastic link when I can buy a metal link that is 10 times better and only cost $15.  Some after market plastic links cost $30 and up, thats outrageous.

 

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25470_K8702_K8734_En.pdf

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Why would I ever buy a plastic link when I can buy a metal link that is 10 times better and only cost $15.  Some after market plastic links cost $30 and up, thats outrageous.

 

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25470_K8702_K8734_En.pdf

 

I have now 3 cars with OEM and have had 3 others. No experience, no issues, so I have no opinion. Cannot relate.

I have replaced 4 struts this Summer, had links disconnected, non issue with removing and attaching the nut.

You must of had a bad experience.

 

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U-tube on Taurus spring.

Not my idea, not my opinion, just passing it along.

StrutSpringIdea_zps8df8e798.jpg

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fyU96hiI4E

 

Good strap = 900 safe load, 5 rounds =10 layers for half a spring, and with compressors maybe safe.

Use this with screw compressors for added safety net.

Just passing along.

 

 

 

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Re to Nick

Wish I knew this when my impact quit and I cranked the screw comp off by hand, rachet, ckick at a time.

StrutLin9-13_zps43a4305a.jpg

 

My nice clean workshop, and my old school strut holder.

I could have wrapped this one and made the removal easier. I think I over compressed a bit.

 

I know a guy would would compress and change this but: BUT

I saw him doing one in his shop. He had the big air impact running and running trying to get the bit nut to tighten but the shaft kept turning. On and on and finally it took and he really hammered the nut after it tightened. He did not rechedk to see it the spring ends were in their pocket ends. I am a bit of a stickler for quality work. I do it, it will be right. Double check.

 

I used the two adjustable wrenches in the pic to start the top nut to snug. Then about half second with the impact and it is done.

There are warnings about over tightening the top nut with impace. Stretches the shaft.

 

 

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You and I clearly follow the same idea...it's done correctly, and it's done once.  Double/tripple checking your work.  

 

Start it by hand, then move to impact, smart move.  Good use of an old brake rotor.

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You and I clearly follow the same idea...it's done correctly, and it's done once.  Double/tripple checking your work.  

 

Start it by hand, then move to impact, smart move.  Good use of an old brake rotor.

Oh yes my holder. Started to look at what was just sitting around the shop. First thought was front rotor, but did not need that big. Also note, the threaded rods through the wood, one passes through the tab on the strut. Thus when I pick this assembly up, no chance of it falling off and braking my foot.

Never broke something but have damaged some things and been on crutches and pain pills.

Hope to never do this again. Raeady struts for the Sable, but none I could find for the Lin. Low volume car, last made 11 years ago, limited choices. Happy with KYB.

 

Now my '01 wagon does not pass my bounce test on the front. And I hear that swoosh in one strut when I bounce it. Meaning, low gas pressure, not the best. It rarely goes out of the ~12 mile radius of here, maybe 5K miles year, it will just have to keep on. Hope to do the O2 sensor first of the week and keep it in tune.

 

Have a fine Sunday.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Mat cleaning.

I used a watering sprinkling can and wet them down on the pavement.

About half hot water, half household ammonia.

Brushed them with a handle brush. (top of ladder in pic)

Strung them up with clamps and a wire over ladder.

Hosed them down.

Sunny day project.

Ammonia cleans well, no residue, minor suds to rinse.

 

MatCleaning_zps4674f213.jpg

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Struts for what is worth.

StrutWhL13b_zps33830935.jpg

 

KYB (shown) the new one, is sold in R and L. Others brands not, they just use the R on both sides. I have seen it at the JY and it has bent or broken the sway bar link on the L side. The bracket is facing the wrong way and can bind the link.

 

Now note in the pic. The new KYB has one more turn on the spring. Also, the bottom spring shape is different, letting it rest in the rubber pocket more degrees, and leave the bottom at a lower angle. I have had two cars break springs, '95 and '01 Sables. Both break in the same place. See them at the JY broken same place. Right were the spring leaves the rubber when the spring is extended as in the pic. Sand gets in the rubber, imbedded and eats away the steel spring and rust sets in pitting it and it breaks right in the rust pits.

 

For my part only KYB R&L for me.

I am not usually a fan of brands, but when I can see a difference, I prefer the good one.

 

Just my take.

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  • 1 month later...

Bulb List

AutoBulbs_zps24baeb06.jpg

Worth note, lots of numbers for the same bulb. Same lumens same watts. LL is long life, AK is amber.

 

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The only issue I had with my Monroe quik-struts was the brake hose didn't screw into it. I needed a nut on the other side. With my 2000 the hose bracket screwed directly into the little bracket off the strut.

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The only issue I had with my Monroe quik-struts was the brake hose didn't screw into it. I needed a nut on the other side. With my 2000 the hose bracket screwed directly into the little bracket off the strut.

You are supposed to use the self tapping screw to make it attach.  The one that holds the line on, on a Motorcraft strut.  

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You are supposed to use the self tapping screw to make it attach. The one that holds the line on, on a Motorcraft strut.

I had the same issue. I thought the oe bolt was self tapping , but by then I was finished and didn't want to force anything.

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OK one more tip from my experience. Take the self tapping screw and run it in the new strut and cut new threads before putting the strut on the car. Then remove the self tap and you are much easier in installing later. I did this with electric impact and it goes really quick. Run it up, back it out and now ready to install.

 

But usually remember this after the strut is on the car. :pat:

 

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Might be time to think about fuel filter.

FuelFilterPin_zpsf674b28b.jpg

GasFilter11_zpsf8b44455.jpg

And remember, the hairpins must be the right size, and remember:

Put the pin in the fitting while it is off the filter, facing the right direaction, then push the fitting on the nipple until it snaps over the bulge.

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OK one more and this applies only to 2001 years.

FuelFilt01_zpsc1d63aeb.jpg

The filter comes with a new bracket. Toss it. Removing the bolt from the frame is likely a real PAIN!

Mine really rusted in place.

I poped the new one out of the bracket, poped the old one out of the bracke on the car and put the new one in the old bracket. I put a hose clamp around the filter and bracket just because I had a clamp the right size.

 

The '01 year is a one year only fuel system with the regulator inside the filter and a 3 hole filter.

 

Happy filtering.

 

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