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Bought Another Taurus ... A V8 Sho!


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Y'all can keep your Vulcan boat anchors. It takes a real man to rebuild a SHO.

Bye. Good riddance. er, uh... sorry to see you go!

*AHEM* Do you see that title in red under my username? I move to the front of line automatically. Step aside, mister.

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Oh good. Obsolete headgaskets. This could be fun...thanks for the info though Vash.

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I am still thinking that I will be doing this, but I just want to price out all the new gaskets I'll need, plus how the heck I will get the engine out of the car to do the job.

Sorry about the coolant tank slip - I read your post twice and still missed it.

Engine comes out the bottom. I have replaced both front and rear heads while still in the car, I would not recommend trying the rear head in the car unless you are a skilled mechanic with a deep toolbox.

Headgaskets AND headbolts are reuseable/ have been reused by many people with lots of documentation. I've got 2 cars in my driveway running on just that after repaired cam failures.

While I would never reused gaskets or bolts on a customer's car, I wouldn't hesitate to try it on my own car. Many folks have gone the used gaskets and bolts route with years of success.

Parts. Yeah, I have a few V8 SHO parts.....

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Wow. I just checked. Can't even special order the gaskets. I figured someone would have a replacement.

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If the testing confirms hydrocarbons in the coolant, that should verify the need for new head gaskets. Why is the cam weld so complicated that you would take the entire valvetrain apart and send the cam accross the country to have the work done? It seems a good welder could go to your house and do the work right on the car, no?

It can be done in situ, but it's impossible to clean the cam well enough for a perfect weld. It next to impossible to get them completely clean with the cams removed. I welded the cams (removed) for my '96 SHO a couple months ago. Even after hot tanking, there was still enough gunk in the crevices where the sprocket is pressed onto the cam to cause some gassing during the stitch.

Most if not all V8 SHO engine gaskets are no longer available.

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Headgaskets are obsolete, and I believe there are no aftermarket ones available, most v8 SHO owners that pull the heads reuse the headgaskets... And a set of cam cover gaskets is 160, at least that's the cheapest I could find...

How can he reuse the head gaskets if they're the cause of the problem?
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How can he reuse the head gaskets if they're the cause of the problem?

That's exactly why I pointed it out.

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Yeah, I think if I ever got a SHO, and it had problems, I'd just put a Conti V8 engine in it. Parts exist for those from what I hear.

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Yeah, I think if I ever got a SHO, and it had problems, I'd just put a Conti V8 engine in it. Parts exist for those from what I hear.

Funny, that's exactly what I was thinking...
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They don't sell the material in sheets that the headgaskets are made from?

if you could get your hands on that stuff you could carefully remove the old headgaskets and create a stencil and send off a sheet of the raw material to be CNC cut.

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They don't sell the material in sheets that the headgaskets are made from?

if you could get your hands on that stuff you could carefully remove the old headgaskets and create a stencil and send off a sheet of the raw material to be CNC cut.

Head gaskets I've seen have metal rings to strengthen the cylinder holes. Not easy to replicate.
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Well I found some head gaskets. RCM Auto has them, so does eBay. Not cheap, anywhere from $300-450 to my front door for both of them.

I got a quote for having the two cylinder heads cleaned up, have the valves adjusted & shimmed, and somewhat set for reinstall: $1000 add another $125 to have all 4 welded.

The cylinder head bolts are under the shafts, so camshafts have to be removed to take off the head bolts from what I'm told.

Headbolts I found at $6/pop. I need 10.

Then I still will have to figure out the timing cover gaskets (3 of them are needed), valve cover gasket, upper/lower intake gaskets, spark plug well gaskets, crank seals too. It would seem foolish to me to leave them alone unless some of these are reuseable. Found that the oil cooler is dripping fluid, oil dripping all down the oil filter. So need to figure out what the leak is there. Oil pan is damp but not dripping oil. So not sure if bolts need to be snugged up or what.

>>>As a side note, working on the Vulcan has allowed me to gain a lot of appreciation for the simplicity, durability and design of it...especially when I am looking at this SHO.

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Not sure exactly about the v8, but on the v6 SHO the timing cover, upper intake, and valve cover gaskets are all reusable, unless damaged.

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>>>As a side note, working on the Vulcan has allowed me to gain a lot of appreciation for the simplicity, durability and design of it...especially when I am looking at this SHO.

Agree about the little Vulcan. Cam sensor awareness and never using tap water in the coolant has got me almost 400,000 miles out of the Sable.

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You SHO and Duratec guys may have the horsepower bragging rights, but at least my Vulcan doesn't require Unobtainium Alloy parts to stay running! laugh.gifph34r.gif

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That's true. Vulcan existed for thousands of years. Duratec I can't see being a problem for parts yet though.

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Well I found some head gaskets. RCM Auto has them, so does eBay. Not cheap, anywhere from $300-450 to my front door for both of them.

Make sure they are OEM gaskets, not just OEM "Replacement" gaskets. The proper OEM gasket is "MLS" Multi Layer Steel. They are a sandwich of several layers of steel, the outer layers are coated in a very thin layer of black - Viton? Teflon? something that adds flexibility to movement.

Several ads I have seen on Ebay sell a "OEM Replacement gasket" that is a single flat piece of gray fiber material, so common in older engine designs. Those won't hold up. The Aluminum in the V8 SHO engine moves a lot (Heat expansion and contraction) and will scrub the fiber type gaskets to an early death. If it is not a MLS gasket, you don't want it.

$300.00 for both headgaskets is dirt cheap for the real gaskets. I'm pretty sure Doug at FPS still has the proper gaskets in stock.

I got a quote for having the two cylinder heads cleaned up, have the valves adjusted & shimmed, and somewhat set for reinstall: $1000 add another $125 to have all 4 welded.

The cylinder head bolts are under the shafts, so camshafts have to be removed to take off the head bolts from what I'm told.

I had a fellow SHO me a repaired head he had redone from a camfailure + broken valves - the combustion chamber and seats were chewed up pretty bad in 2 cylinders - anyhow, he had the work done by these guys,

http://cylinderhead.com/

and the work was amazing. They rewelded the combustion chamber and replaced all the valves and valve seats. I don't know anyone else who has actually cut in new valve seats into the SHO heads. Anyhow, I'd contact them in a heartbeat for a quote if I was having any serious machine work done to a set of SHO heads.

Headbolts I found at $6/pop. I need 10.

Seriously, THIS is a corner you can cut. Put in the bolts to a regular 3 step torque, but on the third swing, add 5# before doing the final 90' turn. This puts the bolts into a fresh stretch zone.

I KNOW the book says change the bolts, literally hundreds of these bolts are living second lives still holding repaired SHO motors together.

FWIW, of all the people I've heard of reusing bolts, I've NOT heard of any problems caused by the bolts. Not once.

Then I still will have to figure out the timing cover gaskets (3 of them are needed), valve cover gasket, upper/lower intake gaskets, spark plug well gaskets, crank seals too. It would seem foolish to me to leave them alone unless some of these are reuseable.

Crankshaft seal changed without a doubt. Front cover seals would be nice too, as they are a huge PITA later on. Upper gaskets? not so much worry. If they are soft and pliable, reuse them. The LOWER intake gaskets need replaced if removed, UPPER just wipe off and hit with a coat of engine paint right before reassembly.

Found that the oil cooler is dripping fluid, oil dripping all down the oil filter. So need to figure out what the leak is there. Oil pan is damp but not dripping oil. So not sure if bolts need to be snugged up or what.

Oil cooler leak is common -

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/RepairingaLeakyOilCooler.htm

(A 30 mm deepwell socket makes this repair easier than the wrench used in the writeup)

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/OilCoolerOring.htm

>>>As a side note, working on the Vulcan has allowed me to gain a lot of appreciation for the simplicity, durability and design of it...especially when I am looking at this SHO.

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hahaha. 205k on mine and she shifts great.

What's your secret to getting those high miles out of a transmission? smile.gif

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What's your secret to getting those high miles out of a transmission?

It's not the 1st gen ATX/AXOD. Every one I've ever seen grenades around 120k.

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What's your secret to getting those high miles out of a transmission? smile.gif

Tasca Ford in Cranston RI. and luck. luckily the car has been good me. i just had the timing chain gasket replaced that was the highest repair cost i had in the car. I never added a transmission cooler either.

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