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Today i was goign to pick up my sister in my 03 sable, i jsut put the short bypass belt on, when my power steering pump pulley blew, taking out the upper passenger radiator line (the one about the size of a finger) Does anybody know if i need to replace the whole radiator to replace the plastic nipple that broke off?

Edit:

Is it sad that i am tempted to just repair her, and then sell it...let someone else have the misery.

Edited by steveg1988
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If you are talking about the hose that connects the radiator to the reservoir, the nipple is part of the radiator side tank. Unless you can fix it with some JB Weld, you need a radiator. :(

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If you are talking about the hose that connects the radiator to the reservoir, the nipple is part of the radiator side tank. Unless you can fix it with some JB Weld, you need a radiator. :(

I might try JB weld...but how well will that stuff hold?

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I might try JB weld...but how well will that stuff hold?

JB Weld is pretty good stuff. Sorry to hear of all your problems with the Sable.

Off topic, but are you seriously getting over 28mpg in that? :o

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JB Weld is pretty good stuff. Sorry to hear of all your problems with the Sable.

Off topic, but are you seriously getting over 28mpg in that? :o

Yes, yes i am...she was only turning at 2200 RPM at 65-70 mph on the NJTP...and that was before i fixed the a/c compressor, put on Contiprocontact tires, and a new air filter. She purrs now.

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Son of a... The only time I crested 20mpg was on a trip to Atlantic City.

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Son of a... The only time I crested 20mpg was on a trip to Atlantic City.

Use the cruise control, go easy on the loudness pedal, make sure your tires are inflated properly, have good oil in the engine, and make sure every filter on it is clean, once i get her fixed i should be at 30ish mpg. Once at highway speeds i normally just cruise at 65-75 on the turnpike, whatever traffic is flowing at.

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I keep up on the maintenance pretty good. Seems to be a bit better with the new trans though, still not no 28MPG. Not a fan of crusie control, personally, but cruiseing at 65-70 I am at way more than 2200RPM, aroun 28-3000 actually

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I keep up on the maintenance pretty good. Seems to be a bit better with the new trans though, still not no 28MPG. Not a fan of crusie control, personally, but cruiseing at 65-70 I am at way more than 2200RPM, aroun 28-3000 actually

The duratec engine family revs high to begin with, Just try using your cruise control, that way it will keep everything at constant RPM.

But back to the original subject, JB weld, is it a good permament solution, or is it a long term temporary one?

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I would call it temp. Lots of people use it as permanent, but it all depends on what you are using it for. In your case, it would be a perfect solution until you find a new radiator. Give yourself some time, instead of having to get one right away, but I, personally, wouldn't use it as permanent. With teh cold/hot/cold/hot it would experience it wouldn't last a lifetime anyway.

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I would call it temp. Lots of people use it as permanent, but it all depends on what you are using it for. In your case, it would be a perfect solution until you find a new radiator. Give yourself some time, instead of having to get one right away, but I, personally, wouldn't use it as permanent. With teh cold/hot/cold/hot it would experience it wouldn't last a lifetime anyway.

Yeah, i am probably going to order a all aluminum replacement before spring and have it installed.

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Look for Water Weld. it is made by the same company as JB Weld. I think this would be a better option to fix it.

http://jbweld.net/products/water.php

I will look into that product next weekend (leaving the car at home and taking the train upto where i go to school)

Any leads on all aluminum radiators?

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My experience is that every time you install a new belt, it might "pull" harder on the existing components. Look at the belt tensioner mark - where is settling with the new belt? This is how I blew one water pump and one alternator - in two different cars. It's nothing you can do about it, the bearings that "give" were worn and needed to be replaced anyway.

But once you fix all those, you don't have to worry about them for 100k miles. A "new" old car, that was neglected will have lots of those incidents at the beginning. After a while it will become more and more reliable (if fixed corectly) and cheaper to maintain.

I would just try to JB Weld that nipple till you get some money - carefull, there is pressure there while the car is hot and running and it might eventually blew away... A new radiator has the advantage that is less clogged and will help with cooling the engine in summer.

Edited by SoNic
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^ You pay up front but are rewarded with no BS for miles.

Like I dumped probably too much money into my 2000 bet day I bought it and today. But short of issues that were human error (cross threaded spark plugs and a bad tank of gas)...nothing has left me stranded due to mechanical or part failure.

I am now at the point 4-5 years later where I have to catch up on some things again.

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My experience is that every time you install a new belt, it might "pull" harder on the existing components. Look at the belt tensioner mark - where is settling with the new belt? This is how I blew one water pump and one alternator - in two different cars. It's nothing you can do about it, the bearings that "give" were worn and needed to be replaced anyway.

But once you fix all those, you don't have to worry about them for 100k miles. A "new" old car, that was neglected will have lots of those incidents at the beginning. After a while it will become more and more reliable (if fixed corectly) and cheaper to maintain.

I would just try to JB Weld that nipple till you get some money - carefull, there is pressure there while the car is hot and running and it might eventually blew away... A new radiator has the advantage that is less clogged and will help with cooling the engine in summer.

I know for a fact that the alternator is brand new (repalced July 2011) the water pump did not seem to ahve any issues....just the plastic power steering pulley went.

Edited by steveg1988
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I wouldn't take chances with epoxy. Too much temperature swing from cold to hot engine. An aftermarket one is about $100 online. The plastic tank is fine.

Problem is the money, the cost to replace the radiator and everything is 150 for labor, 23 bucks for a metal pulley, and 60 or so for a radiator off rockauto

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Problem is the money, the cost to replace the radiator and everything is 150 for labor, 23 bucks for a metal pulley, and 60 or so for a radiator off rockauto

I suppose the only suggestion is do the labor yourself if possible. If the questionable fix breaks at an unfortunate time it will probably cost the same as the labor(or more).
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I suppose the only suggestion is do the labor yourself if possible. If the questionable fix breaks at an unfortunate time it will probably cost the same as the labor(or more).

The "fix" will only last about 2 months anyway. I plan on getting the rad and having it installed in march. I cannot afford the labor yet, so i want to order it while i can still afford it. I am income limited for now (i am in school and i get money from the VA every month for anxiety and tinnitus) So i have to do repairs a bit at a time. The car gets driven only on the weekends and once a day, when it was operating.

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Just an aside- Ive gotten 28 mpg in my sho. Normally about 18-21 though.

Jb won't hold that. You may be a able to find someone to plastic solder but I'd go new.

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What about the junkyard option? You're in the part of the country where rust can cause rads to rot out.

Remember on the Gen 3/4 the rad comes out the bottom of the car, not through the top like on a Gen 1/2.

You can still do the job in your driveway, you just need a good amount of height off the ground to get the rad out the bottom.

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Time to get dirthy and save the 150$... Radiator replacement is not so bad like it looks. You need warm weather (or a heated garrage) thou.

You need some car ramps anyway, for future oil changes :)

Edited by SoNic
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Time to get dirthy and save the 150$... Radiator replacement is not so bad like it looks. You need warm weather (or a heated garrage) thou.

You need some car ramps anyway, for future oil changes :)

I do not do oil changes at my house...my grandparents do not want hte mess, and they want me to do it at a mechanic, not on my own, so the repair is done 100% right.....their words not mine.

When i do my own oil, i have to head over to my uncles place and use his jack stands and floor lift, my grandmother has issues with my grandfather (Long story, he kept oil around before he died, and my grandmother remarried, and my current grandfather agrees with her, i live with my grandparents) and how he did oil changes. So i just do it at my uncles or have it done for me if i can get a good deal, like 24 bucks with a car wash.

I am doing the repair the proper way, brand new radiator, and a brand new metal pulley.

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