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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?

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Actually he's onto something with the full synthetic thing. If it had sludge built up the synthetic likely dislodged it and clogged up the oil returns. . . At least you didn't clog the pickup and cause starvation!

Gotta take the motor apart to get rid of that crap.... Just get used to burning oil.

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Kev - ill have to try one sometime lol

Sam - that's pretty much what I'm going to have to do. It's an old car, and its my brothers, it isn't worth the time or money troubleshooting the problem. There are worse things than burning oil.

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Just never forget, the Essex is very similar to the SHO V8. It has a horrible reputation, but once the necessary repairs are done to her, she's bullet proof and fun to drive. :wub:

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Even after you repair the heads Kevin, the issue can still easily return. Poorly machined block with well machined heads doesn't bode well for the future.

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I've heard otherwise. Remachine the heads, block, and put these gooder than hell head gaskets in. :)

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Ah yes, if you reman the block, and make it a nice level surface (read: barkentine's thread on tcca of his rebuild, look how crappy the surfaces of the block are, and that's OEM!!!), and use the MLS gasket, then yea, don't see why it won't outlast the car!

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Nope. Victor Reinz perma-seal head gaskets will hold for the long term, without machine work being necessary. ;)

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Weight reduction.

Rustflakes_zpsf22f0e67.jpg

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Busy week. Replaced windshield. Plastidip grille. Ran cb cable through the cab. Installed the red floor lights out of my taurus. Added amber LED flashers. Repaired running boards that came with it. Painted them with bedliner. And put them back on! And of course, a good wash and vacuum.

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Finally filled the Explorer's flat spare tire up with air and found the leak. That amazing full sized alloy with an all terrain tire was useless when it could only hold air for a day or two.

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Finally filled the Explorer's flat spare tire up with air and found the leak. That amazing full sized alloy with an all terrain tire was useless when it could only hold air for a day or two.

Congrats. Most people never check the spare.

Any of mine, with the mini spare loose about 10 pounds per year.

When I buy a used car, usually find #10 in the spare.

-chart-

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One of my tires MAY have a slow leak... Like REALLY slow. So slow it will be near impossible to find at this point.

I have never had a problem with Sam's Club doing my tire balance and rotation. Have them do it because its like $3.50 a wheel, and they may as well rotate while I'm in there since its free. You just have to ask them not to use the damn anti-seize because they slather WAY too much on it and when you take off the wheels the next time you're covered in the red goop. I usually watch them do the process, but this time I had to go somewhere and left. Got on the highway after getting it done and wheel shake... worst at 60-65mph.

So I'm taking it back and asking them to re-balance, and I'm watching them do it. The idiot tech told me my rim was cracked. FALSE.

If I haven't explained this before, my rims are aluminum, coated in plastic, coated in chrome. They do this because you can't plate chrome onto aluminum except in a vacuum so the plastic acts as a medium to allow the chrome to be plated to the wheel. The aluminum wheel doesn't stick out, the plastic and chrome does. So the PO hit a curb and screwed up the chrome on one wheel. Aluminum wheel is 100% okay. Just the chrome is messed up. Hopefully they didn't decide not to balance it because of that reason.

Oh, and when I picked it up, I looked at the sheet and it said all 4 tires were at 34PSI. Stock sticker says 32PSI, I like them at 33PSI cold. I thought this was normal since it was about 80 degrees out and the tires probably weren't fully cold when they checked it.

Complete bullsh*t. Low tire pressure light turned on the next day and one of my tires was at 23-24PSI. Yes, it did get cold (approx. 1PSI for every 10ºF difference in atmospheric temperature) that morning, about 60 degrees when it was 80 the previous day. As I drove, it bumped up to about 26PSI, still too low. Via FORScan and my MS CAN enabled ELM327, I checked all my tire pressures as the TPMS sensors read. Cold, none were at 34PSI. Even hot they didn't get to 34! Hot they were 25, 29, 30, and 31PSI.

I filled them all up to 32PSI cold (manual gauge confirmed this pressure). Checked the pressure via the TPMS sensors again over the computer a few days later and it seems that one tire is back down to 30PSI. Guessing the one with the slow leak.

TPMS warning light (low tire pressure) turns on when I believe a tire goes below 28PSI for X amount of minutes driving. The TPMS sensors won't update until you start driving. They go into sleep mode after 6 hours to preserve battery life and are woken up by motion.

TPMS is one of those idiot things that are helpful, but shouldn't be federally mandated. Honestly, most people with TPMS have the light just turn on because a sensor dies or they get new wheels, or they get one new wheel not from the dealer.... So they just live with the light on... Of course in a car with info center that would be a giant pain since it beeps at you every 10 minutes and when you start the car. . . . . . . . . Can't see the odometer unless you clear it.

If I still have wheel shake I'll be going to another, more expensive place, for my balancing. Should just buy a wheel balancer :P

Lastly, I want to get a TPMS training tool so when my tires are rotated I can update the tire location so my computer says the correct location for the tires. Every 4 rotations (if they were rotated right), they should pop back up correctly. Currently RR (the one that set the TPMS warning off) is actually FL. So since Ford rotated them last time, it looks like they updated the locations. I believe my car is old enough to have the band TPMS sensors, so I'm not sure which tool I need to update the locations.

Monologe over....

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Congrats. Most people never check the spare.

Any of mine, with the mini spare loose about 10 pounds per year.

When I buy a used car, usually find #10 in the spare.

-chart-

I like to have a good spare tire when I am driving in the middle of no where in the UP, if I got a flat I would be screwed and have to leave the explorer at the side of the road and have someone haul me and the flat spare to a gas station 30-40 miles away if I was really unlucky and got a flat on a certain stretch of road I drive often. This tire was at less than 5 psi, so pretty much no air at all. I think it must just have a bad seal or the fancy alloy wheel corroded and started a leak.

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Up here in the rust belt, have to wire brush the bead area of the wheel, steel or alloy and treat the rim before mounting a tire. Even then at times it leaks and have to un-mount and retreat the rim. Sams here will do that under their warrenty. That is a rust belt thing.

I used to drive over remote PA and WV mountain roads for my work. My '87 and '88 Bulls had full size spares. Only the tire was on a steel wheel, but same tire as factory. I think it was optional but maybe part of the LX/LS package. I never needed one but it was insurance. And then no one had a cell phone.

I have only driven on a temp spare one time. Bought the '03 with a bad alloy, likely damaged in repos. Drove it 150 miles on the temp and it was just fine.

Most imporant was, I aired it up.

Happy remote driving.

-chart-

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One of my work buddys came this morning saying that he hears a noise when brakes... Mitsu Galant. I helped him change the rear brakes just because I wanted to see a certain brake pad - that I am sharing with you here. Obviously he will need now a rear disc also... Caliper slider pins are bend and have mushroomed ends too.

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Edited by SoNic

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And just think the guy tailgaiting you likely has brakes like that.

We who are safe drivers have to watch out for them as we drive.

Safe braking.

-chart-

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Reset my sound system speed volume to 4 out of 7 this am on the Lin Cont.

It lost it's setting somehow. Default is zero.

Push on/off/volume for 5 seconds and the scale pops up.

"select" up of down and push the on/off.

Done.

-chart-

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Mine's set on 3 I think. Maybe 4. 7 is too much. It is a nice feature for when you get on the highway!

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One of my work buddys came this morning saying that he hears a noise when brakes... Mitsu Galant. I helped him change the rear brakes just because I wanted to see a certain brake pad - that I am sharing with you here. Obviously he will need now a rear disc also... Caliper slider pins are bend and have mushroomed ends too.

Oh Lord. This is what happens when someone just drives their car until it makes weird noises or smells.... My dad won't ever get an oil change or brake change unless it starts doing something really weird. . . Every few months I check his milage and see when I need to do a change. His oil changes cost me 15 bucks so I just do them for free....

One of his brake lines wasn't in the proper spot and was rubbing. Cut a hole in it after a while and when he hit the brakes just spewed brake fluid all over the place. Luckily I happened to notice it right away. He casually told me his brake light turned on when the parking brake wasn't on. I checked it and sure enough the fluid was dangerously low. I filled it up and gave him the bottle and told him to fill it up ASAP if the light turns on again. Changed the hose, bled the brakes, Problem fixed.

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Explorer passed the Enhanced inspection. The day i got it back, My driver door wouldn't lock. The  key cylinder didn't work.

So i came up with a fix, using a leftover spring from the E-brakes. As i found out its a pretty common problem.

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After fixing that my Airbag light came on. I don't know what happen there. But i guess i will be spending my next day off finding that problem.

 

Everything i had to modify, repair and the parts i had to make. I'm pretty sure it runs and drives, better than it did from factory.

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Crummy Duratecs and their aluminum oil pan.  Crap design on the Escape.  Went in for an oil change today and ended up replacing the oil pan because 99% of the threads on the drain plug were gone.  Needless to say, my mom wasn't very happy with the situation since the car has been cared for very well. I'm sure having various shops beat on it over the years didn't help but the super soft aluminum doesn't help.  If Ford wanted the oil to be cooler than put a bigger oil cooler on the car, don't use a aluminum oil pan.

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Don't worry, my Essex oil pan is rusted to s**t. I need to replace mine because I don't want to risk it rusting through and leaking oil...

 

But my Vulcan... That was a solid oil pan on my 05. Duratecs are rubbish. Dealt with my mom's Duratec, it's peppy and all, but eh... Gimme OHV. I like simplicity. :)

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Don't worry, my Essex oil pan is rusted to s**t. I need to replace mine because I don't want to risk it rusting through and leaking oil...

 

But my Vulcan... That was a solid oil pan on my 05. Duratecs are rubbish. Dealt with my mom's Duratec, it's peppy and all, but eh... Gimme OHV. I like simplicity. :)

 

 

Your right on that Kevin, its a peppy motor and runs good if your willing to care for it or risk spending a ton of money and time replacing or having someone else tear half the motor apart to replace a part.

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Modded my dad's Chevy express Van to have front seats with arm rests on Saturday.

Needed to grab the hole seat back.

The arm rest mount /fulcrum is welded to the seat back metal frame.

Edited by thesavo

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Crummy Duratecs and their aluminum oil pan.

Well, you just learned that never-ever you should leave a underpaid and probably high guy to change your car oil. DIY.

I have a few friends that ended up with stripped threads on oil pan, even on wheel studs, just because the shops don't care of who is working on those jobs.

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