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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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1 hour ago, Rohand901 said:

Perfect Candidate. I wonder if the cheapest sleaziest ebay honda civic coil-overs will fit on it, cause it needs ALOT more low. And its a green 90s explorer, so best car ever

 

If not we'll just cut the springs, thats what the kids do right?

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Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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If not we'll just cut the springs, thats what the kids do right?

 

 

 

Old man Nick will be yelling at us to get off his lawn in short order

 

 

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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Not my house, not my problem LOL

Oncr I get off what I want from it - the rest of it I was going to call a guy I know that hauls junk cars.  You'll have doors, body, and frame. If someone here wants it - cage it and have fun. And it comes with. Salvage title!

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6 hours ago, Bull Geek said:

 You'll have doors, body, and frame. 

Okay, but like what about the front and rear suspension and the axle. Cause like. I've got an itching to build a dope ass wagon
From the TC I mean. 

By the way, is garys wagon still sitting out front? unrelated.

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2 hours ago, Rohand901 said:

Okay, but like what about the front and rear suspension and the axle. Cause like. I've got an itching to build a dope ass wagon
From the TC I mean. 

By the way, is garys wagon still sitting out front? unrelated.

Me thinks the suspension should still be in place (I don't foresee a reason for Nick to take it out unless he has some other Frankenstein project) which would make it easy to work with. 

Assuming the engine harness and things to run it are in place, any old 4.6 could be adapted to work. If the wiring isn't usable, one supposedly could use early Town Car engine mounts (1990) or custom fab up some mounts and a 302/351 with a carburetor could be adapted (or at that point, whatever fits and makes it go; slap in a four cylinder and see how long it takes to blow up from the weight). If you went if with the 302/351 route, a AOD from a Town Car could be used and it probably would be the right length for the driveshaft to fit normally.

BTW, if this project actual becomes a thing, I'll be more than happy to try and help when I have time available. It'd be cool AF to build something just on borderline crackpipe thinking.

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11 hours ago, Rohand901 said:

Okay, but like what about the front and rear suspension and the axle. Cause like. I've got an itching to build a dope ass wagon
From the TC I mean. 

By the way, is garys wagon still sitting out front? unrelated.

Gary still has that wagon for sale!  It's not out front but at his house.

ince I get my vehicle acquisitions in line and see closer what I'm dealing with I'll keep y'all posted!

on the crushed blue 03 I'll be moving some things to my new purchase.

itll be easier to say what it comes with once I'm done.

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Well, I did it. I bought a truck.

I was trying to find something for under $1k and kept finding trash, either with the truck or the sellers. So I relented and upped my budget to $1500 and came across this:

1997 GMC 2500, 3.43 HD rear, 350 Vortech engine. 110K miles on the engine, 50k miles on the transmission, 354k miles on the body.

From the bed forward, this thing is fucking mint. But the bed is pretty beat up, which is fine. It is a truck...

So, Lemons tow vehicle?

IMG_20170510_192100_mod.jpg

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Weeee! It's a GMC!

weeeeagmc.jpg

 

Very nice truck too :)

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2 hours ago, SHOenough said:

Well, I did it. I bought a truck.

I was trying to find something for under $1k and kept finding trash, either with the truck or the sellers. So I relented and upped my budget to $1500 and came across this:

1997 GMC 2500, 3.43 HD rear, 350 Vortech engine. 110K miles on the engine, 50k miles on the transmission, 354k miles on the body.

From the bed forward, this thing is fucking mint. But the bed is pretty beat up, which is fine. It is a truck...

So, Lemons tow vehicle?

IMG_20170510_192100_mod.jpg

If it was a 1500 C/K series you'd fit perfectly into a large number of the demographic who visit my parts store. :D

 

If the Exploder got turned Lemons, we can use that. If the Town Cah gets done instead, lets tow it with the wagon for that Panther on Panther action.

 

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That looks like the "let's make America great again" vehicle of choice haha.

seriously nice truck.  I'll race you in the 90 Town Car!  

I can confirm In stop light races a 90 TC will beat a 05 Sable 24v. Once I hit 55 though....the other party will win even with 3 people in the car...

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5 minutes ago, Bull Geek said:

That looks like the "let's make America great again" vehicle of choice haha.

seriously nice truck.  I'll race you in the 90 Town Car!  

I can confirm In stop light races a 90 TC will beat a 05 Sable 24v. Once I hit 55 though....the other party will win even with 3 people in the car...

Should change that car to a 5.0 HO. :ph34r: 

 

24 Heures Du LeMons' rules do require that the car was purchased for no more than $500, not counting the cost of safety equipment. Sounds like you'd need to write up an appropriate bill of sale for these prospective racers... :P 

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13 minutes ago, Bull Geek said:

That looks like the "let's make America great again" vehicle of choice haha.

seriously nice truck.  I'll race you in the 90 Town Car!  

I can confirm In stop light races a 90 TC will beat a 05 Sable 24v. Once I hit 55 though....the other party will win even with 3 people in the car...

Doesn't it? it'll fit right in in the country haha

Thanks! You're on! As soon as I figure out why it hesitates on tip-in and idles rough. Thinking bad gas, it did sit for 8 months.

Dat low end torque!

Also, if you ever need a truck you're more than welcome to borrow it!

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Truck came home today!

Really was struggling up the hills. Shaking like crazy, no CEL though.

Found my ELM327 and plugged it in anyway, which showed me that the CEL should have been on. Cyl 4 misfire.

Did coil and plug on 4 and it ran better, for like 10 minutes. Then it started idling super rough and surging. So I did the rest of the 7 plugs and wires. Still did it a bit, so I replaced the battery (after also having trouble starting).

Thing runs like a top while moving now and still kicks at idle, albeit MUCH less. Hoping cap and rotor will take care of that tomorrow.

MAN this thing is easy to work on. SO MUCH ROOM, I sat in the engine bay with the intake removed for a little while today

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What a day...

So last few days, I was rebuilding an infamous alternator, that many forum members are aware of, that let out magic smoke of Buick Fury.

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The original alternator, with the stator removed.

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All removed with the bearing removed too, and degreased.

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Rotor's bearing was also replaced.

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New Brushes, voltage regulator, rectifier/diodes, all cleaned up, and all ready for assembly.

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All reassembled!

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Before I installed it, I got it tested. Prior to this, the alternator tester at O'Reillys wouldn't even spin up, it failed right from the start.

Of course, when I get home, this happens to the Thunderbird:

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What amuses me highly on this... The car is running, volts are about 11.5 Volts with it running all on battery, No battery light, no Check Gauges, just running. Previously shaking the regulator wiring would fix it. But it finally died. But this is the reason I adore volt gauges, even primitive with no markings of where 12, 14, 16 volts are. Once you know what it SHOULD be, vs Key on, Engine Off, it's easy to determine the actual "Norm"

Sadly, I decided against rebuilding the 3G due to the Ford Alternators having a built in rectifier/diodes to the stator. So... Because I don't want downtime with the Bird, I just bought a brand new one with lifetime warranty.

This job only took me less than 10 minutes. I normally despite working on the MN-12 because everything is in hard to get to places. The alternator? What a pleasure! Only 2 tools were needed: 1/2 inch socket wrench for the tensioner, and a 10mm socket to remove all the bolts.

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Great, now to install # 2

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And while I was under the hood of the Roadmaster... The following was also replaced: Spark Plugs, wires, OptiSpark/ABITS/Distributor, and a good coolant flush.

And for those curious... It's a pain in the rear, as the Opti is behind the water pump, and behind the drive pulleys.

20170513_154415.jpg

But, after all this work was done, the Roadmaster flew!!!! I was able to re-enact for my wife when my grandfather had his 92 Roadmaster (Not an LT1, but still) I had to change the battery, and he took me for a ride. On a side street in Chicago, no traffic, he turns to me with his Polish accent, "Watch" Turns his attention back to the road, and slams his foot down on the accelerator, doing a burnout and just flying down the street. I was able to show my wife how my grandpa did it with his, and it felt great being able to just have fun with this B-Body, with no codes, no hesitation, no stalling at high RPM. This is a fun car, and now I know why I was crazy enough to buy it.

I am hoping since I invested in the AC Delco parts, that it should last a long time like the Buick folks say.

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Were you able to single out exactly what component failed in the Buick's alternator? I just remember trying to jump off the car some time back and while trying to start it, we found the alternator started smoking and was insanely hot.

Cool to see you got it sorted out.

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I am going to bet voltage regulator. When I took it to O'Reillys originally, and threw it on the tester, it wouldn't even spin up the alternator, it just failed right as soon as you hit Quick Test on the machine. However, this site:

http://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/cs144d411/

Had exactly what I needed to fix it right. They have Ford stuff too. And had my garage been done, I would have rebuilt my 3G Alternator for my T-Bird. I just didn't want to risk bad diodes in the integrated stator. Chances are mine were good, as it would charge, but I didn't want to rip it apart and see it had a bad diode or two and then have to send it in for repair (Which they offered) and be without the car during a time I need to move it for the construction crews.

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Just don't give "jumps" to people and don't try to jump your car either if you have drained your alternator.

Jumping can damage the older-style regulators. Empty alternators can damage the rectifiers.

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Cap and rotor today - truck runs like a damned top now. No codes, no buck, no hesitation

One last problem to address: A/C. Compressor attempts to engage. Then grinds and stops. I can spin the clutch and watch it start to spin, but when I manually turn it it seems to turn pretty freely.

Might just be worth it to get a new compressor. Never done one, and don't know how to collect the R-134 so I may have someone do it. We'll see

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27 minutes ago, SHOenough said:

don't know how to collect the R-134 so I may have someone do it

I think you have to go to a shop that's licensed and has the right equipment to recover. It's not one of those DIY things. Now if you want to buy a recovery unit, Robinair makes a nice one for around $4K  :P  (Just bought one for our shop last year.) 

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