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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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Adding dye to both systems was stupid. Pick the one most likely to be the source and add dye only to that system. If the leak continues and you find dye, you can rule out the other, and vice versa.

And if the leak is bad enough to leave drops on the driveway, you only need to drive a day or two before re-inspecting. Otherwise, too much mess and it's impossible to locate the source. 

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The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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Repo'd the '05 C230K tonight. Buyer didn't come through with remaining balance so, too bad, car is mine. Still registered in my name. 

Drives like shit. Steering wheel at 10 o'clock. Skips sideways over bumps. All four wheels have curb damage. Front left control arm bushings rattle loudly over small bumps. Right rear has too much negative camber while left rear has too much positive. Shift knob is busted. Shifter pops out of reverse, effectively no reverse gear at all. 

Not sure if I'll fix it or scrap it yet. 

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19 hours ago, Jeff said:

Good deal.  Speaking of trans fluid change.  I have 5 qts of  motorcraft mercon lv waiting for my Fusion when it gets back and a long bendy funnel to put it in with.

 

Jeff

Just getting the cap off seems like a chore. There is some kind of a vacuum line or something right above mine.

Unlike the other Fusion owners, I will do my trans fluid according to the owners manual interval. 6f35 has been around for a while and is pretty reliable.

I'm not concerned.

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5 hours ago, Spridget said:

Adding dye to both systems was stupid. Pick the one most likely to be the source and add dye only to that system. If the leak continues and you find dye, you can rule out the other, and vice versa.

And if the leak is bad enough to leave drops on the driveway, you only need to drive a day or two before re-inspecting. Otherwise, too much mess and it's impossible to locate the source. 

Maybe it was just the transmission and i heard what i wanted. :huh:

They initially wanted me to come back next oil change. Umm our last car we went 8 months before hitting the 3k mark. Normally we don't do 5k a year on her cars. Bought the Kia with 30k on it in 13 and traded it in 17 with 49k.  Worst part about that, is that's still driving it daily.

So I told them nope but since we don't drive that much they wanted enough time to circulate so i settled for the 11th.

Honestly its not my problem, I just bought this car its a CPO fix it and give me my loaded 17 Escape courtesy car again.

 

 

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23 minutes ago, mmmfloorpie said:

Just getting the cap off seems like a chore. There is some kind of a vacuum line or something right above mine.

Unlike the other Fusion owners, I will do my trans fluid according to the owners manual interval. 6f35 has been around for a while and is pretty reliable.

I'm not concerned.

 

11 minutes ago, Bull Geek said:

The 6F35 is "pretty reliable"? Ahahahahah. You gota go Google it!

 

Ehh my 08 Milan with the Asian Transmission was reliable and I flushed that every 30k. The 6F35 honestly i hate it, its too clunky. It can't get out of its own way and doesn't know how to shift when you need it to.

I also can't stand the down shifting when going down a hill coasting.  I don't trust the transmission and i'm glad its a lease.   I'd say out of 5 days its shifting smooth 1.5 of those days.

When i get transmission flushes I don't do power flushes I do what ever flush Valvoline offers. Its seriously the best one out there. Dave can attest.

I think what ever my next car is I will make sure to buy a CPO again just to have the 100k Powertrain warranty.

I would honestly look in to it with these transmissions.

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7 minutes ago, Bull Geek said:

The 6F35 is "pretty reliable"? Ahahahahah. You gota go Google it!

 

People complain about the hard shifting between 2-3 but thats not a reliability issue. My car is my family's 5th 6f35 and not a single issue. Compared to a A4XS (I think that was the bad one right?) it's pretty good.

Wow I can't believe how many people are on this early.

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3 minutes ago, Gentz said:

 

Ehh my 08 Milan with the Asian Transmission was reliable and I flushed that every 30k. The 6F35 honestly i hate it, its too clunky. It can't get out of its own way and doesn't know how to shift when you need it to.

I also can't stand the down shifting when going down a hill coasting.  I don't trust the transmission and i'm glad its a lease.   I'd say out of 5 days its shifting smooth 1.5 of those days.

When i get transmission flushes I don't do power flushes I do what ever flush Valvoline offers. Its seriously the best one out there. Dave can attest.

I think what ever my next car is I will make sure to buy a CPO again just to have the 100k Powertrain warranty.

Mine is pretty good I think. Do you ever unplug the battery and let the transmission re learn?

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5 minutes ago, mmmfloorpie said:

Mine is pretty good I think. Do you ever unplug the battery and let the transmission re learn?

Honestly not in this car, I hate the placement of the battery so i just don't try. I did just did a reset of all the stored stuff in the car with Forscan the other day so maybe that will help. But i'm not sure.

 

And Ehhh this early is probably the best just getting in to work not actually doing shit for an hour.

 

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2 minutes ago, Gentz said:

Honestly not in this car, I hate the placement of the battery so i just don't try. I did just did a reset of all the stored stuff in the car with Forscan the other day so maybe that will help. But i'm not sure.

 

And Ehhh this early is probably the best just getting in to work not actually doing shit for an hour.

 

You don't have to take the whole battery out, just remove the positive... It's easy.

Anyone else have trouble replying to a post on a desktop? I have to click the "Quote" button like 5 times before it opens up the reply box...

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11 minutes ago, mmmfloorpie said:

You don't have to take the whole battery out, just remove the positive... It's easy.

Anyone else have trouble replying to a post on a desktop? I have to click the "Quote" button like 5 times before it opens up the reply box...

Maybe I will this weekend just do it leave it off over night. I hate the placement I had to jump my wife's sonata off it pain in the ass to get to the ground.

Also no i don't have a problem with it. Browser History?

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Works for me.

taurus Transmission are not great either. AOD was great - so long as pressure cable grommet didn't fall out, it would last a looonnggg time.

the 6F35 is junky and clunky - maybe Ford will figure it out on next gen Fuze?

my day starts at 615-630 every workday...

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On 3/28/2017 at 9:40 PM, Gentz said:

I do hope you are still blaming Sean for all Roadmaster issues... Since he did make the check engine light turn on. 

Lol, it is all his fault, didn't break it in properly :lol:

I did also repair the vacuum selector. My brother in law and I went to a junkyard, found a very clean Cadillac Sedan DeVille complete with Trojan Condoms in the backseat (unopened thankfully, but he found it hysterical) had a nasty front end smack, so I took the vacuum controller out of that.I love domestic cars for parts bin engineering :wub:

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Well the big revel, the new vehicle. I didn't hold back on this one.

2013 F150 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4, 3.5L EB. 38,000 miles.

Lariat plus package

Chrome Package

"Eyeball" HIDs

Max trailer tow with 3.55 electronic locking rear axle

36 gallon gas tank

Sony premium sound, navigation, etc. About as loaded as a Lariat can get.

In Blue Jeans Metallic with Pale Adobe two tone and a black interior.

IMG_0297_zpsyhmqrcks.jpg

 

IMG_0299_zpssz6h00nj.jpg

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IMG_0305_zpsmtxyat3e.jpg

The truck is in amazing shape, only 1 blemish on the tailgate. Interior is in perfect condition, already has front and rear weather tech mats.

Previous owner converted everything over to LED, the tail lights are ok but I think they are going to go and I'll switch back to the incandescent bulbs. I really like the billet grill insert and will keep that in place. The hard tonneau cover is going to go though, its useless to me.

It rides like a truck but honestly its like driving a luxury vehicle, its super quiet and smooth, and the ecoboost just pulls like a freight train.

Its a lot of truck but I plan on keeping it a long time and it will be the right choice. The truck can haul just about anything, and with that massive interior it will make a good family vehicle in the future. I figured I better buy what I want now before I do have other commitments and can't afford it.

Everyone else with other cars hangs around here so I won't wander too far away, this is a good tight knit forum and I will continue to share, plus I still have the SHO machine.

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46 minutes ago, Thub said:

Well the big revel, the new vehicle. I didn't hold back on this one.

2013 F150 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4, 3.5L EB. 38,000 miles.

Beautiful!

I love F150's, I think they're fantastic vehicles.

Also, consider tuning it. If you think it pulls now, wait until a tune gives your an additional 90WTQ and 65WHP

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On Fri Mar 31 2017 at 8:53 AM, Gentz said:

Maybe I will this weekend just do it leave it off over night. I hate the placement I had to jump my wife's sonata off it pain in the ass to get to the ground.

Also no i don't have a problem with it. Browser History?

I use the ground post on the strut tower.

On Fri Mar 31 2017 at 9:02 AM, Bull Geek said:

Works for me.

taurus Transmission are not great either. AOD was great - so long as pressure cable grommet didn't fall out, it would last a looonnggg time.

the 6F35 is junky and clunky - maybe Ford will figure it out on next gen Fuze?

my day starts at 615-630 every workday...

I think that 10 speed they are working on should be out by then.

I estimate a brand new Fusion should be out around 2020.

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I took the hard tonneau cover off the truck so I can actually haul stuff around which I actually did immediately following that. The cover retailed for over $800 new so I am hoping to get a few hundred from it at some point.

Most likely should cover the cost of a new soft roll up cover. I will probably ditch the drop in plastic bed liner at some point too, get it sprayed with LineX instead.

 

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The Endeavor's Service Engine Soon magically fixed itself and turned off. Had an EVAP Leak, and I tried to resolve it, and it came back, but I guess now it's fixed. However... Like any old car. Something got fixed, and something else broke. I can no longer use the tailgate window. The plastic hinge broke, it's not horrible, but I probably shouldn't open it. And it looks like the same style with a Taurus Wagon with the Torx screw that looks corroded on and probably will destroy the window upon removal...I'll have to start soaking it in penetrating oil to hopefully remove it carefully and replace it. And the ebay assholes want $40+ for it. I don't think it is worth that. So I'll wait until I see an Endeavor in a junkyard.

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Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it.

Gn1N6P.jpg

Parts fixed/replaced:
New calipers on both sides
New slide pins on both sides
New brake hoses on both sides
New anti-rattle clips on both sides
Rotors Turned
Brake pads replaced with Ceramic pads (warranty swapped my basic, dusty Semi-Metallics)
Brakes bled; Fluid flushed at every corner

The calipers I took off looked like they finally got to the end of their rope. The boot for the driver's side piston was tearing apart and the passenger's side was folding over on itself. The hoses were very soft and quite easy to hold shut by pinching them closed with vice grips. I guess 20 years and 182K on factory parts their isn't terrible.

The fluid that came out of the car was likely to be the factory fill. It came out a greenish black color and left sediment in the bottom of the tin can I was using to catch the fluid. All calipers were bled until it ran clear. I'll likely have to redo the flush in the future to get any additional contamination out. The boiling point of the oil fluid was stupid low, I could make the pedal fade to the floor holding the brakes while creeping in very slow traffic.

The test drive went fine, brakes bit well, and the pedal felt great. Since I got the car, it has always been very stiff, and never felt linear like cars with brake systems in good order. The car always stopped, but the pedal feel was awkward. Now it appropriately firm and responsive, just like a brake pedal should.

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The '97 got washed, polished, waxed, and the interior conditioned today. It's been a while since I've done something more than a quick wash for the exterior, and with the heat starting to ramp up, I can't risk the leather getting excessively dried out. I'm impressed that the seats have held up as well as they have for being 20 years old, since it seems like even newer cars in the junkyard have absolutely roached interiors.

I also have a 70mm throttle body on order. It's coming off a 5.4 Econoline 150. It doesn't make a huge performance difference over the 65mm throttle body on my 4.6, but supposedly helps with low end responsiveness. 

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Tossed on the replacement throttle body for the '97. Definitely helps with the low end response. Wound up goosing it out of the garage on accident since I didn't expect it to be as responsive as it is. Higher up on the RPM band, harder to tell if it really does anything. 5mm doesn't seem like a lot, but it really does help with some extra airflow when you're just driving normally or starting from a stop.

I need to find someone who does gears around here. Tossing some 3.55s in the rear and re-installing my P71 ECU would put the car where I would like it to be performance wise.

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17 hours ago, Kodachrome Wolf said:

Tossed on the replacement throttle body for the '97. Definitely helps with the low end response. Wound up goosing it out of the garage on accident since I didn't expect it to be as responsive as it is. Higher up on the RPM band, harder to tell if it really does anything. 5mm doesn't seem like a lot, but it really does help with some extra airflow when you're just driving normally or starting from a stop.

I need to find someone who does gears around here. Tossing some 3.55s in the rear and re-installing my P71 ECU would put the car where I would like it to be performance wise.

And get the corbas mounted and balanced with ventus v12 evo2s

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