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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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46 minutes ago, Rohand901 said:

"buys 2.3 mustang"
*internet roasts you about not buying a 5.0*

"buys 5.0 mustang"
*internet is waiting for the right moment to roast*

 

 

I can't hear you hating over the sound of roasting tires... B) 

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Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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4 hours ago, Brian_05_SEL said:
5 hours ago, Rohand901 said:

"buys 2.3 mustang"
*internet roasts you about not buying a 5.0*

"buys 5.0 mustang"
*internet is waiting for the right moment to roast*

 

I can't hear you hating over the sound of roasting tires... B) 

tumblr_o6xv98gRFt1sdrx9wo1_500.jpg

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So I posted earlier about me obtaining an Aveo LS to fix up for my parents neighbor who has Stage 4 cancer. Well, I am nearing completion of the car.

The other day I repaired the A/C. It actually wasn't anything wrong with it, but the cooling fan has 2 wires, a hot and ground. And then it has a low side and a high side. The low side has a resistor, and high side is just complete. Well, normally in cars, A/C would engage the high side. Not the Aveo. So what had happened, I think the A/C system overheated and stopped working. I had the system evacuated. Held a vacuum on it for a good hour to get all the remnants out of the system. Charged it, and it got super cold, but then it warmed up again as the fan wasn't engaging. I then looked and found the Aveo had a burnt out resistor. I just bypassed the resistor so the cooling fan only works one speed. But really it shouldn't matter much.

The remainder of the Aveo project: 1. Do a through detailing of the body. 2. Clean up the hub caps and wheels. 3. Go to junkyard to obtain some basic trim (Grab handle on driver side is broken, Passenger door lock is missing a grommet, and if I can find a good tail light as current one has a tiny hole on it.)

I have been driving it in the meantime and it is fun to drive. The 1.6L does have some power and kick to it. The fuel economy is great on it. The manual transmission shifts beautifully between all 5 gears and it is such a pleasure to drive.

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Picked up all my little random parts for the Subaru fuel filler neck repair at the dealer today. $60 of screws, clamps, nuts, and 3 small hoses.

Lets see if anyone can tell what the base of my makeshift table is.

IMG_20160809_172140809_zps0gkuxsjo.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Brian_05_SEL said:

One of your SHO Chromies?

All 4 of the Chromies, or junk wheels. Whatever you prefer.

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Picked up the Durango...Apparently the condition is called "fish bite" and the dealer calls it normal. They don't know the level of asshole showing up tomorrow.

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21 minutes ago, machausta said:

Picked up the Durango...Apparently the condition is called "fish bite" and the dealer calls it normal. They don't know the level of asshole showing up tomorrow.

Oh, that's what your Durango was doing? Shit, that's very common on those. 

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14 hours ago, machausta said:

Picked up the Durango...Apparently the condition is called "fish bite" and the dealer calls it normal. They don't know the level of asshole showing up tomorrow.

I did some searching and back in 2012 they should of made a new PCM for this issue.

Did they replace your PCM?

 

Edit: 

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-durango/348382-fishbite.html

This is a good thread. but i have a feeling your probably researched it too.

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Chrome Yellow looking sharp as ever. After the oil change today I washed and gave it a full exterior detail.

IMG_20160814_163420720_zpsladpsob4.jpg

 

IMG_20160814_163453050_zpsmd99dowy.jpg

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I removed the roof moldings on the impala the other day.  Got all the adhesive tape removed from each and we will respray them and renstall with window urethane (GM tsb recommends this fix for lifting).  They were starting to pull up at the front and one was severely sun damaged.  Found pieces of acorns and leaves under the drivers one.  Also I got a steal on Gabriel Ultra struts from an auto supplier liquidator.  They were significantly cheaper than buying Monroe at work.  $90 for all four....only downside is they have zero warranty.  I took the gamble on them as I have the ultras on my 09 and I like them.  Also,  this happened a few days ago:

IMAG0042_zps4vxy3pt3.jpg

I still have to put the lower bolts back in it this evening and then all that's left is the mirror and roof moldings...then a good cut and polish.  It amazes me how far its come in only 4 months.

Jeff

EDIT: More Pics! Front is 100% bolted up and liners installed.  I had to pull the plastic bumper/grille mounting panel(bolts to the radiator support) on the passenger side as the bumper cover was slightly inset of the hood which caused a rather large gap to appear between the headlight and the bumper cover near the grille side.  It looked unsightly and I couldn't leave it that way...I'm not sure if the panel got bumped in when it was lightly hit on that side or not, but it has adjustment bolts on each side.  I loosened the bolts and gave it a good tug and it moved about 1/4" or so then tightened it up, and now it looks like it should.   The shut lines all look good and everything fit back together pretty nicely.  I drove it for about an hour tonight and it is so much smoother riding than my Sable.  I can see myself daily driving this car.

1471313153_zpspqwkusur.jpgIMAG0046_zps7mpq77d3.jpgIMAG0047_zps80hshrpl.jpg

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Damn, that's nearly a complete car :wub:

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The CD changer is in, and it works! This finally completes all the parts of my JBL swap.

I purchased this changer along with a length of harness and the related bracketry off of a member on CVN who was upgrading his whole sound system on his '98 Grand Marquis.

For mounting, I cut a singular slit for one of the changer brackets in the trunk liner:
B8eF9mV.jpg

The other one just runs underneath the trunk liner. I'm guessing the '92-'97 cars had a somewhat different setup compared to the '98 it came out of. I wound up drilling one hole on the panel where the inertia switch is mounted so I could bolt the changer in place. I'll figure out a way to neaten up the liner eventually, but everything is tucked up for the time being, so I'll leave it as is.

Also, here's a quick video of the different audio modes (Radio, Cassette, and CD) on the head unit and how the lighted display and buttons change for each different mode:

I'm pretty happy with the results. :D

Edited by Kodachrome Wolf
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Haven't done much to any of our vehicles because of our weather.  Between the heat, humidity, and rain it has been hard to even get in a hand wash. Hope we can get some calm weather so I can get our vehicles cleaned and detailed....

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Did the most dreaded activity on the blue bird... Changed the oil... Ughhhhhhhhhhh I hate how Ford puts oil filters in the most idiotic places. (Under Exhaust manifolds, over starters, buried between body and engine) But, it is good for another 4k. However... I do notice other service items that needs to be done. Looks as if my power steering cooler is leaking, and there's some rust build up underneath I need to address.

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1 hour ago, TaurusKev said:

Did the most dreaded activity on the blue bird... Changed the oil... Ughhhhhhhhhhh I hate how Ford puts oil filters in the most idiotic places. (Under Exhaust manifolds, over starters, buried between body and engine) But, it is good for another 4k. However... I do notice other service items that needs to be done. Looks as if my power steering cooler is leaking, and there's some rust build up underneath I need to address.

Ford also puts oil filters in the best places, ever seen where they mount it on the 1st gen Expedition and 97-03 F150. Remote mount is positioned behind the front bumper on the drivers side all by itself, nothing else even near it. That has to be one of my favorite spots I've ever seen an oil filter.

The 2002 Explorer 4.0L was also super easy, the filter was mounted on the oil cooler which was remotely mounted behind the front axle on the passengers side of the truck, you could get a 12" channel locks on it without hitting anything.

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I wish the Fords I had were easy... However I remember the Contour was the worst... Had to remove the tire to get to the oil filter lol. At least I could never complain of stuck lug nuts on that one tire since it had to come off every 3/4k miles :P

There are kits, I just don't know how well I trust them. It's just a horrible place Ford put that filter though.

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17 hours ago, Thub said:

The 2002 Explorer 4.0L was also super easy, the filter was mounted on the oil cooler which was remotely mounted behind the front axle on the passengers side of the truck, you could get a 12" channel locks on it without hitting anything.

But when you take it out all the oil leaks on the swaybar and some wiring. Stupid.

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I remember the sway bar getting a little dribble on it but never any wiring.

Sent from my XT1250 using Tapatalk

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It was all cars all day for me. Started out at my friends helping him with a radiator replacement and coolant flush on his newly acquired 99 XJ Jeep. At only 86,000 miles and very clean for a XJ in Wisconsin the truck was a very good buy. Radiator replacement was fairly easy, new thermostat and hoses were installed, and the system was "converted" over to G05 coolant. He still needs to do a full tune up and address all the other major fluids, but otherwise it's a very nice little truck. I guess the plan is to address all the maintenance items, some interior improvements, and then toss a 3" lift and 31s on it.

Then I went home and tackled the rest of the Subaru fuel filler neck replacement...major PITA job. Hose clamps that were turning to dust when I touched to them, rusted metal embedded in the little EVAP lines, and of course anything rubber that gas touches just falls apart when you work on it. Rust was falling in my hair, ears, nose, everywhere. The hardest part was that the main filler hose and several of the little evap lines were tucked up above the rear subframe so I was always reaching up into a little cave to work on those items. Got it all put back together and then filled the tank up with no leaks or any smell of gas as I drove it around for a while.

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I got the front struts on the Impala swapped today.  The new old stock Gabriels I bought as a package were a bit of a let down.  The rear struts were good, but one front strut was bad out of the box.  No warranty on them so I threw out both front Gabriel struts and picked up some Monroe GasMatic struts for the front.  Man were the old ones shot.  They had 140k miles on them and you could compress them with your pointer finger, and at full compression....stayed fully compressed.  No dampening or rebound at all.  I also installed new Napa Chassis strut mounts with bearings(RA closeouts cost 4.88 ea).  Only had to disassemble the new assembly once when I realized I had left out a rubber insulator that I mistakenly thought came on the new mounts.  Luckily I hadn't bolted it back in yet.  I didn't forget that insulator the second time. Lol

IMAG0050_zpsr6fqspei.jpg

this is the reason you ALWAYS use new mounts when you swap struts.  These were toast and at only 140k.  So many people reuse these thinking they don't really wear out.   

IMAG0051_zpsip0kfark.jpg

I also swapped in a new denso post cat oxygen sensor to address a CEL for B1S2 heater circuit.  If it comes back then a new catalytic converter will be ordered and installed.  Rear struts are on the docket for this coming Saturday.

Jeff

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Added amber turn signals to the Mustang GT by installing new LED bulbs. The "Cheese grater" lenses remain the stock red translucent plastic, but when the turn signals are active it now flashes in bright amber/orange. B) I will still be swapping the cleaner looking LX taillamp lenses onto this car soon, though. 

 

Also removed the hood prop rod and installed a lift strut kit for easy access and appearance reasons, and replaced several burnt-out and missing bulbs so now the trunk and underhood areas all light up properly.  

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My B1S2 code changed to a p0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold code today while I was driving home for lunch.  Figured it might given that this engine had a head gasket failure.  In the coming weeks I'll order a new one and install it.  Until then I likely won't drive it too much.

Jeff

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I changed the filter and drained the pan on the Subaru 4EAT. That old filter had just been rubbing me the wrong way, since it looked like its been on there forever. 4 fresh quarts of Dex/Merc and a new OEM filter and it was shifting a little smoother and engaged quicker than it was before. I'm hoping the fresh fluid helps improve the delayed engagement into drive that these 4EATs suffer from.

Subaru makes it nice and easy to change the transmission fluid and filter. I wish all auto makers could set things up like this, easy to service. I also changed the fuel filter, another smart design by the Japanese, the fuel filter is under the hood and easily changed by loosening two hose clamps.

Old (View is looking forward from the drivers side, the finned aluminum housing is the front differential.)

IMG_20160822_182920313_zpskjzuoxvz.jpg

 

New

IMG_20160822_184303157_zpsdsax6dg5.jpg

 

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