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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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On 6/2/2016 at 11:22 PM, Josh_GL_Limited said:

It's going to look like a brand new car again!!!

That's what I strive for in all my builds.  Even if it's an older car..I like it to look like it's new or near new.  This one is special to me so I'm trying to do it up just a little nicer than my others.  I know it won't be the way it was when my mom had it, but underneath it all...it's still her car.  I purchased another taillight on ebay tonight as the RH one I bought at pull a part was cracked (the red lens) and I didn't notice it until last night(the fella painting the car actually pointed it out to me).  Not looking to settle living with a cracked taillight...I searched and I lucked into a white one for $25.00 out of Michigan so he will finish up the car and it will be minus one side taillight cover for a little bit, while we wait for it to arrive and then get it painted.  We tried removing the cover so we could apply it to one of my assemblies, but it was on so good that it started to crack the cover.  Oh well, I'm not super upset about it.  Luckily another was had cheaply.  Also, I purchased some new in package front door "impala" emblems to put on as well.  One is the correct "cashmere/sandstone" color and the other is white.  I'll spray the white one myself here at home using the OMNI basecoat in an aerosol can that we make at work and I'll put those on when I get the car back.  He had it pulled up next to the building when I went by to drop off the center trunk lamp with the sport cover installed so he could paint it.  He told me that it was the next in line after he sprayed a Trailblazer this afternoon.  So maybe tomorrow it will see some work on the front end going on. I'm looking forward to having the car back at home soon and getting all the loose ends taken care of.

Jeff

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The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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The Chrysler was in an accident on Tuesday and most likely totalled. The driver in front stopped hard for a yellow light when he was nearly in the intersection and the mother in law rear ended him. The kids are ok wife has a bit of whiplash and concussion. Those vans have a nasty airbag in the footwell that pushes the pedals into your legs a messes them pretty bad, they seem kinda stupid for a fairly low speed collision like that was.

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5 minutes ago, Vulcanator said:

The Chrysler was in an accident on Tuesday and most likely totalled. The driver in front stopped hard for a yellow light when he was nearly in the intersection and the mother in law rear ended him. The kids are ok wife has a bit of whiplash and concussion. Those vans have a nasty airbag in the footwell that pushes the pedals into your legs a messes them pretty bad, they seem kinda stupid for a fairly low speed collision like that was.

:( 

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T-Bird is a money pit still. 

Getting towards the end now. IAC is going bad on it, stalls when the a/c is on and the car is parked. 

New intake manifold swapped onto it, so it has a 2005 Performance Improved Intake, with aluminum crossover.

New Coil Packs installed, accel this time.

New Water Pump.

Complete power steering flush, the fluid looked like poo...literal poo. now it is nice and transmission fluid colored.

New Brake Lines. The steel ones rotted from the inside out.

Makes me miss the simplicity of the D186

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Birds are always a money pit. :lol:

I decided to finally work on the Supercoupe... I had a spare power seat base in my garage. Well... Even though the power motor dimensions are all the same... Ford changed the teeth on the motor, so I could not use it in my S/C... So now, I have to go junkyarding with a drill battery to test and grab a base out of a MN-12... Damnit. Oh well, I need to go junkyarding to find parts. I think next Monday I'll go out to Aurora and go visit my favorite junkyard. Maybe I'll find a Galant or Endeavor and grab an A/C High pressure line. Even though they fit different, I don't see the hard parts being too different hopefully. I love A/C, and I hate not having A/C in the Mits.

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14 hours ago, TaurusKev said:

Birds are always a money pit. :lol:

I decided to finally work on the Supercoupe... I had a spare power seat base in my garage. Well... Even though the power motor dimensions are all the same... Ford changed the teeth on the motor, so I could not use it in my S/C... So now, I have to go junkyarding with a drill battery to test and grab a base out of a MN-12... Damnit. Oh well, I need to go junkyarding to find parts. I think next Monday I'll go out to Aurora and go visit my favorite junkyard. Maybe I'll find a Galant or Endeavor and grab an A/C High pressure line. Even though they fit different, I don't see the hard parts being too different hopefully. I love A/C, and I hate not having A/C in the Mits.

Why is it that way with the T-Bird. Is it just due to the nature of the beast they put some half baked ideas in that worked when new, but age badly?

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Pretty much. Cheap plastics that weren't meant to last forever, and designs that make servicing them super fun... Lol

 

On the other side, I decided to test my Mitsubishi's A/C...

20160611_203006.jpg

There's a nice hole there. Appears to be from the bracket that held it down, it corroded the aluminum and created a nice hole. I put a shit load of JB Weld over, I let it sit for over an hour, and this is the result:

20160611_201031_HDR.jpg

It has been holding the vacuum, but I do not want to stress it out, so I am going to let that sit for a day, then I will attempt to charge the system. What I hope to accomplish: Determine if the Evaporator is bad or not. I don't mind servicing the rest of the system as it doesn't seem impossible, but taking the dash apart seems like a bitch.

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Still waiting to get the Impala back.  He's got the hood repaired ( few dings and lots of rock pecks).  Still no color up front yet.  I hope I can get it back this coming week.  I got the rear wheels put on.  They were the only two with decentish tires.  I really just wanted to see them on the car even though they are stock wheels.  I'll be having new rubber installed on all four soon.  The tires on these wheels were really good compared to the bald tires that were on there prior.  One of the old tires had a broken belt which caused a nice shimmy/wobble.  I also purchased one used center cap to replace the bad one that came with these wheels.  Also, purchased the impala door script emblems to install once I get the car back.  

2016-06-07_11.34.31_zpsjlyvbzbk.jpg

2016-06-07_11.34.50_zpsq8w51nws.jpg

Jeff

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That Impala is starting to look like a new car. I love it :)

 

Today I went to the junkyard, got a ton of things. Sadly... No Endeavors with AC lines. They had 2, and thankfully one was a 2004. I got an owners manual, rim center cap, and rear window washer sprayer as the old one broke off. The Endeavor feels more complete with all 4 wheels with the center caps. Then at the junkyard, I got the a power window motor, and power driver seat base for the 89. The 89 is nearing completion. Now to thoroughly clean it, then try to sell her. It's a great car, but I'd rather sell it and invest in a better garage for the 95 T-Bird which does matter more.


Once I got home from the junkyard and the in-laws, I finally worked on the Mits. I didn't leave the manifold gauges on, but when I hooked it up, it still had a vacuum. I re-vacuumed it, then let it sit for about an hour or two while I repaired the S/C on putting the seat together, putting the window together. I didn't bolt the seat in as I want to take the interior out to clean it. I also replaced the defective driver speaker on the S/C. So once all the work was done to the S/C, I went back to the Endeavor. Charged the A/C, and shockingly... It is holding! :D

I did reinforce the repair.


20160612_210056.jpg

The end result:


20160612_210001.jpg

That thing was freezing me. I loved it.

I put about 20 Oz, which is the capacity, so it should be fully charged. I also added some dye, so even if my repair leaks a bit, I can tell if the Evaporator leaks, or any other components, so I can consider replacement parts. If it's evaporator: Screw it - too much work. Unless it's a real slow leak I'll live with that.

Also off topic - I really love the junkyard in Aurora. They let me have the owners manual, the center cap, and the washer fluid parts for free. And they complemented my tool box that I used. Perhaps that helped ;)


20160611_193207.jpg

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Glad you have working AC again Kev.  It's really too hot out not to have that and it's only going to get worse.  Maybe you'll luck into finding an ac line for it soon. Like the toolbox too....I've never seen one like that.

I finally sat down and looked for new rubber for the impala. I wanted good value, but didn't want to buy a no name Chinese tire.  I do have a budget so in the end I chose the Hankook Optimo H724.  It seemed to have really good reviews in all but ice and snow.  The impala won't see winter driving so that's no real concern.  It's a 50k mile rated touring tire and Discount Tire had them for $307.00 shipped to my door which was only about $50 more than some no name Chinese tires.  I should have them by Thursday according to their website.  I could've gotten these locally but PayPal has a special no interest offer right now and I decided to take advantage of it before it expired.

hankook-tires-optimo-h724-left-01.png

Jeff

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Thanks, it was working, till late this afternoon. So with proof of concept that it works, I switched to a compression union. And it's working again, and in 90°F Heat, it cooled down to 40°F. I think had the previous owner done some cleaning under the hood, and cleaned the crap that was at the base of where that A/C line was, this would have never been an issue. But I think a rusty steel line against aluminum with a ton of crud on top was a perfect combination to corrode the aluminum line to cause a hole at the bottom. Should it fail again, I'll just invest in the proper line knowing everything is top notch on this. Coming up is a tune up, oil change, transmission too.

I will admit, Mitsubishis are pretty tough. But when it has issues... Good luck... It's a shame too, if I could easily get what I need for a Mitsubishi I'd consider another one. But the fact that parts are a pain in the ass makes me not like it. With 178k miles she runs like a dream, and so far, nothing has been too difficult to where I wanted to smash the car into little pieces. I mean for $100, I can't expect a perfect car, and once the flaws are ironed out, I am sure hidden ones will begin to pop out.

But now that the Endeavor is fixed, I decided to take the bike out to wash it. Take the bags off, the trunk off, and take the seat off. Well, I pressed against the Fuel Line quick disconnect which was a brittle piece of plastic. And now I need a new fuel T. Bought a new one of them and the bike sits back in the garage :(

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Actually the motorcycle part is common. Others have had issues with brittle plastic as a fuel line connector on a 2000. New one has been ordered through my dealership and they're mailing it to me. Only about a $30 part thankfully

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Ordered a set of good condition used red leather sport bucket seats from a Fox-body Mustang GT for my convertible. :) Along with that, I ordered a new rear seat delete kit (made of plywood framing and covered in black carpet) and a black fabric headliner for the convertible top to help upgrade the rest of my interior. Planning to get the subframe connectors welded on and full suspension replacement/upgrades done next week. 

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11 hours ago, Brian_05_SEL said:

Ordered a set of good condition used red leather sport bucket seats from a Fox-body Mustang GT for my convertible. :) Along with that, I ordered a new rear seat delete kit (made of plywood framing and covered in black carpet) and a black fabric headliner for the convertible top to help upgrade the rest of my interior. Planning to get the subframe connectors welded on and full suspension replacement/upgrades done next week. 

This post does not interest me because it lacks one or all of the following terms (V8, 5.0L, turbocharger, intercooler, manual transmission, drag slicks).  Besides for that it sounds like the car is coming along nicely.

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Went and changed the oil in my friend's truck, the '95 C1500. I had him on a 3000 mile OCI, and I added at least 2.5 quarts within that time. We were using 5W-30 Motorcraft SynBlend. Beyond excessive consumption, the truck also has a knock on start up and oil pressure at idle was considerably low, even when enough oil was present. At this point, I was curious how to curb oil consumption and get oil pressure up some by trying some tricks. Before anyone gets afraid and starts tripping and WTFing over the next step, we're dealing with a Chevy 350 V8 with 200K that could benefit from a rebuild, but that won't happen.

We ventured down to the parts store and after doing some reading online on other forums, came to the conclusion that guys with our issues were running 15W-40 and some were using HDEOs (Heavy Duty Engine Oils). Seemed that those guys (a few well over 300K) didn't mind using Shell Rotella T oil. We grabbed 5 quarts of that and a STP filter. Changed the oil and filter, and fired it up. The knock on start up went away quicker than before and the oil pressure is back in an optimum area at idle. Now we're just going to keep an eye on consumption and see what it does. If we curb the consumption some (at least less than 2.5 quarts in 3000 miles) then that'll be the game plan from now on.

 

A few things I also found out today:

1.) His truck doesn't have the catalytic converter anymore. It appears it was removed and regular pipe added instead. It's an OBD I setup, so I assume it doesn't have monitoring for it since the CEL isn't on. This must have happened before he got the truck, as this seemed like a fairly old job.

2.) I'm fairly confident that AC Delco oil filters are STP filters. The date/info stamp on the top is similar in print and color, the color of the filter housing are the same shade of blue, the base plate has the same design between the two, and both are dimensionally the same size and shape. However, the STP filter was a few dollars cheaper than the AC Delco variant.

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11 hours ago, Thub said:

This post does not interest me because it lacks one or all of the following terms (V8, 5.0L, turbocharger, intercooler, manual transmission, drag slicks).  Besides for that it sounds like the car is coming along nicely.

Cute. The rest of the chassis needs to be made ready first before such power-adders. And the GT bucket seats have better side and thigh bolsters like the V8 SHO seats we all love, while a rear seat delete cuts down curb weight. 

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I wouldn't worry about running 15w-40 in an old GM 350CI.

Sent from my XT1250 using Tapatalk

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19 hours ago, Kodachrome Wolf said:

Went and changed the oil in my friend's truck, the '95 C1500. I had him on a 3000 mile OCI, and I added at least 2.5 quarts within that time. We were using 5W-30 Motorcraft SynBlend. Beyond excessive consumption, the truck also has a knock on start up and oil pressure at idle was considerably low, even when enough oil was present. At this point, I was curious how to curb oil consumption and get oil pressure up some by trying some tricks. Before anyone gets afraid and starts tripping and WTFing over the next step, we're dealing with a Chevy 350 V8 with 200K that could benefit from a rebuild, but that won't happen.

We ventured down to the parts store and after doing some reading online on other forums, came to the conclusion that guys with our issues were running 15W-40 and some were using HDEOs (Heavy Duty Engine Oils). Seemed that those guys (a few well over 300K) didn't mind using Shell Rotella T oil. We grabbed 5 quarts of that and a STP filter. Changed the oil and filter, and fired it up. The knock on start up went away quicker than before and the oil pressure is back in an optimum area at idle. Now we're just going to keep an eye on consumption and see what it does. If we curb the consumption some (at least less than 2.5 quarts in 3000 miles) then that'll be the game plan from now on.

 

A few things I also found out today:

1.) His truck doesn't have the catalytic converter anymore. It appears it was removed and regular pipe added instead. It's an OBD I setup, so I assume it doesn't have monitoring for it since the CEL isn't on. This must have happened before he got the truck, as this seemed like a fairly old job.

2.) I'm fairly confident that AC Delco oil filters are STP filters. The date/info stamp on the top is similar in print and color, the color of the filter housing are the same shade of blue, the base plate has the same design between the two, and both are dimensionally the same size and shape. However, the STP filter was a few dollars cheaper than the AC Delco variant.

AC filters have been made by Champion Labs (same supplier as STP) for many years. However, since Champ introduced their cheap filter alongside the traditional one, AC-Delcos can be either type. Last time I bought one, the PF24 (standard B-O-P filter) was still the good type. I think AC set it up so that the normal filters kept the same part numbers and the cheap ones had an "E" appended to it, but I can't be certain.

I'd have no qualms about running 15W-40 in that engine. I probably would've switched to at least 10W-40 a long time ago. When I went from 5W-30 to 10W-40 in my CVPI, oil consumption dropped by 60%. In a worn-out SBC I wouldn't think twice.

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Well....the back is done.  It looks good, but I'm not used to  it yet.  Front is still unfinished, but I needed it tomorrow to have the tires mounted as I don't really have space to store them in my house for very long.  It goes back to them tomorrow evening.  There is a color difference....the camera really picks it up, but to the eye it's pretty close.  New paint will never match 12 year old paint that's had a lot of sun exposure.  After a year it'll probably match better.2016-06-15_19.17.03_zps66qt5eks.jpg

Jeff

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3 hours ago, Jeff said:

Well....the back is done.  It looks good, but I'm not used to  it yet.  Front is still unfinished, but I needed it tomorrow to have the tires mounted as I don't really have space to store them in my house for very long.  It goes back to them tomorrow evening.  There is a color difference....the camera really picks it up, but to the eye it's pretty close.  New paint will never match 12 year old paint that's had a lot of sun exposure.  After a year it'll probably match better.2016-06-15_19.17.03_zps66qt5eks.jpg

Jeff

Love it, Jeff! Can't wait to see it all finished up! Any chance the windows will get tinted?

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They've been tinted since 2004.  You're looking at the legal limit in Arkansas using Llumar film.  It's held up quite well.  It may be slightly faded....not sure.  One window needs to be redone as its started to lift, but otherwise it's been great.  I have no immediate plans to retint the car other than repairing the rf tint sometime in the future.

Jeff

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I have a GM again! Although... Not a real GM to me... But it still sports a bow-tie, and the price was right.

20160616_173542.jpg

Although I got it cheap, I plan to fix it, flip it, and sell it, then give a cut of the profits to help the owner of the Aveo. They're going through some tough shit that I would never want to be in, and they're probably some of the best people I've met in Illinois who have hearts of gold. It needs a timing belt, some P/M, and then just some basic repairs to the body and cleanup. It only has 78k miles on it but being that it is a stick shift, it'll probably be a bit harder to sell since it's not a fast car. In fact... Not fast at all...

So if it doesn't sell, I might give my Endeavor to my in-laws once I fully repair the A/C then drive this thing for ultimate fuel savings and begin to find higher trim Aveos and start swapping parts into it.

The owners of this Aveo also had another Aveo that their son beat the hell out of, and did have a timing belt failure, and this is how incredibly fast it was with the automatic transmission:

 

 

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Wanna race for pink slips? :lol:

Just a reminder: Aveo specs:

TORQUE 107 ft-lbs. @ 3600 rpm HORSEPOWER 103 hp @ 6000 rpm
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