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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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Is that user still around who was the cop in Florida or something? He had the white G4 with the black tail gate and the Police Interceptor badges. And he also had the CVPI caps too.

 

He'd be the one to ask!

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The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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Is that user still around who was the cop in Florida or something? He had the white G4 with the black tail gate and the Police Interceptor badges. And he also had the CVPI caps too.

 

He'd be the one to ask!

That was one of them, and a police academy cadet in Michigan too.

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kdERa44.jpg

When I claim my car is a daily driver, that includes even in winter. Yes, I do try to stay off the heavily salted roads, but the car does get driven in snow. Why else would I have installed and hooked up heated leather seats? Unlike some cars, the front-wheel-drive with traction control does work.

Of course some might think the owner of a performance wagon nuts, but a car first and foremost, is transportation. I have fun even when the weather turns cold.

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Do I look bored? No, wait. I am on this forum. I take photos. I post photos. Don't answer the original question. Ouch, the truth hurts.

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Got the Durango back at 6pm day before Thanksgiving, drove it for the first time on Friday -- straight back to the dealership.

 

It keeps powering off (everything completely dead) at random intervals, and has blown what appears to be the rear main seal.

 

Anyone else think this is perfectly normal for a brand new engine?

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Got the Durango back at 6pm day before Thanksgiving, drove it for the first time on Friday -- straight back to the dealership.

 

It keeps powering off (everything completely dead) at random intervals, and has blown what appears to be the rear main seal.

 

Anyone else think this is perfectly normal for a brand new engine?

 

 

Is it a new engine or a reman'd? 

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Got the Durango back at 6pm day before Thanksgiving, drove it for the first time on Friday -- straight back to the dealership.

 

It keeps powering off (everything completely dead) at random intervals, and has blown what appears to be the rear main seal.

 

Anyone else think this is perfectly normal for a brand new engine?

 

With Chrysler/Dodge? Yes.

 

Makes my Focus sound dependable :lol:

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Is it a new engine or a reman'd? 

 

New short block obtained locally, and they rebuilt the heads at a local performance shop with a spotless record.

 

On the up side, I've gotten to know a lot of local Dodge performance enthusiasts.

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Got the plates for the Subaru today so I was able to legally take it for a drive. 

 

First thing was to inflate all 4 tires (they ranged from 14 to 22 psi) to 35psi, this dramatically improved handling.

Driving at night I immediately noticed the floor shift indicator light was burnt out, being a new vehicle to me I had no clue what gear I was going into or moving out of. I had to actually stop and count the notches as I moved it from Park to Drive, so that will be getting fixed right away. I then also noticed the license plate lights weren't working.  As I drove around I figured I would screw around with the radio a little...pretty weak compared to what I am accustomed to and of course one of the speakers is rattling and making all sorts of nasty noise.  I can accept the burnt out lights but I really didn't want to have to tear a speaker out and replace it.

 

Since I was more relaxed than during the test drive and the initial drive home I could really take in the Forester driving experience. Some notes...

 

1. I cannot drive this thing like I drive the SHO, as most can confirm you can give the SHO a lot of throttle before it really gets moving, not with the Subaru, you hit the gas and that little thing will take right off, its got a lot of bottom end power.  Probably why it needs AWD, I think with just FWD this platform would chew up tires very fast.

2. The steering is very fast and much different than the "ZF Precision" steering that I am use to.  I've gotten so familiar with the SHO basically steering itself down the road.  It really does, my hands are either off the steering wheel or giving very minimal inputs over 50% of the time I'm driving.

3. Compared to the Gen III/IV Taurus platform the Forester is very compact and it feels every inch smaller that it actually is (197" vs 175") almost a full 2 feet.  Backing up and maneuvering is so easy, the front end is so short and its has an SUV back end so it basically ends at the rear hatch.  This is the smallest car I have actually ever driven.  The Escape may be 2" shorter but it rides much higher is wider and feels and drives much larger than the Forester.

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Big exhaust leak on the Forester fixed yesterday. Spring/doughnut flange behind the last converter was rotted out and leaking bad. Cut out and replaced with a flex pipe and section of straight pipe. The car is much quieter now and there are no more exhaust fumes rolling up past the driver door.

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Knock sensor replaced on the Forester, old one had several cracks and was corroded as seen below.  Torque spec was in the 15-18 ft-lb range but it must have been rammed down to at least 50 because I really had to crank on it to break it loose.

 

IMG_20151212_210236257_zpsre48etva.jpg

 

 

IMG_20151212_210156845_zps15tmsxtl.jpg

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Cleaned out the wiper cowl drain tubes on the Caravan. From info on the Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country forums, they eventually fill up and get blocked from debris and pollen sediment in the tubes. We live in a rainforest and the van is always parked under a tree, so when the rain hit us the cowl filled up with water, and overflowed into the intake for the HVAC system. And the result was basically what happens with Gen 3-4 when the rain hat extension allows it to leak, but on both sides of the interior. 

However with the amount of rain that we got in such a short amount of time (3" in 4 days), and our floor mats in the van, we didn't catch it soon enough. With all of the defrosting and heat and moisture in the van over the last week and a half, that also allowed the headliner loosen from the foam in the front section. 

The leak is now fixed but the van's leather seats need to be removed and carpeting needs to be pulled out and dried/shampooed, and the headliner dealt with sometime in the future. :P

Edited by Josh_GL_Limited
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More work on the Forester today, I changed both the front and rear differential fluid, all new synthetic 75W-90. The rear diff with its simple drain and fill plug setup proved to be difficult. As expected I couldn't break the plugs loose so I had to use the floor jack to lift the end of my 25" breaker bar to get them to break loose.  They were tight enough that when I jacked the end of the breaker bar it flexed the entire rear drive line. The fluid was surprising fairly clean and the magnet on the drain plug only had a light coating of crud on it. 

 

I'll give Subaru credit for a neat setup with the front differential dipstick, although it is a pain to reach and requires removing the air box on the back of the throttle body which is where I discovered that this car has 2 engine air filters.

So an air filter in the regular fender mounted box and one in the throttle body box.  The filter in the throttle body box was complete trashed and falling apart, pieces of cardboard and paper had clearly been ingested into the engine...always a good sign.  It appeared original based on the Japanese script and "Made In Japan" stamp. I guess during the 1999 transition between MAP and MAF they moved the air filter location and maybe during assembly this car got filters in both locations. I read that the throttle body box is supposed to have a sealer gasket but its a bit expensive and I'm fine with just running 2 air filters for the time being, since I bought a replacement and put it all back together.

 

Anyway the front differential fluid was a lot dirtier and stinkier, and the magnet on the drain plug was caked in black sludge. I was able to break that plug loose with just a 1/2" ratchet.

 

Filling through the front differential dipstick port. As you can see that sucker is buried down in there good.  You can also see both air filter boxes. I'll have to look into maybe just using the filter gasket to seal that upper box or just buy the OEM gasket as I am sure it is reinforced to hold its shape.

 

IMG_20151213_163848065_zpsm8y6bes2.jpg

 

 

I was quite surprised to find this and good thing I did, that paper is just crumbling apart.  What really surprises me is that this car has had head gaskets done twice. I find it very hard to believe that a mechanic didn't stumble across this while removing the entire engine from the car, and if they did why in the hell did they leave it in place.

IMG_20151213_193922379_zpskqgzwmj6.jpg

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As some of you may remember I picked up a 2015 Ford Fusion in April


 


Magnaflow catback with resonator delete


K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake


Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs


Focus ST wheel wrapped around 235/50/18 Continental ContiProContact Tire


Illinois State legal 35% window tint all around


Two 10in Alpine bassline subwoofers with 1400w infinity amplifier


 


To Come:


Port and Polished heads and intake with custom tune


Yellow Paint front and rear brake calipers


Morimoto 6K HID Kit


Full LED conversion


 


 


 


 


11205527_824273774351483_919787972758684


 


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Edited by blackout
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more money for modifications to make it my own haha it has a sun roof that's all i was worried about

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Wow, haven't posted here in a while. What have I done to my other vehicle(s) lately? Not much, just wash them. Enjoy some pics...

 

SVT is stock, Fuze is not...

 

 

 

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Changed the rear differential fluid with fresh Red Line 75w-140 gear oil. Everything seemed fairly clean inside, no shavings or bits that didn't belong. Closing it back up, I opted to use an actual gasket between the differential and the cover instead of using black RTV. Part number for that gasket is P27608TC; should work on cars equipped with the 8.8 rear axle.

 

I'm not sure if my car ever had the differential gear oil changed before. I never saw a mention of it in the maintenance receipts, so if not, it went almost 161K on the original oil. I have my doubts, but at least now I have the comfort of knowing it has been done.

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I need to do the rear dif on my T-Bird. I am betting it has never been done, and being a 95 with 80k, might as well. It drives beautifully. Might as well do the Olds as well.

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I need to do the rear dif on my T-Bird. I am betting it has never been done, and being a 95 with 80k, might as well. It drives beautifully. Might as well do the Olds as well.

 

While you're in there, change out those granny gears for something a bit more lively :)

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