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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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Yesterday evening the body shop working on our XC90 informs us that the car is ready to be picked up. We picked up the car this morning. Everything looks great on the exterior. Service manager says the car has been washed and interior cleaned. I get in, the drivers door panel and especially the handle are very grimy. Service manager apologizes and cleans the door. I drive the car about 2 miles to get gas. Warning lamp on the dash comes on and info center says "STOP SAFELY. TURN OFF ENGINE. LOW COOLANT." Great. Temp gauge is OK. Pop the hood at the gas station. Radiator surround is falling off. Washer bottle is unbolted and hanging. Air box is loose. These are obvious issues, what else is left unfinished? Looks like the cooling system just wasn't bled properly. Return to the body shop. General manger looks over the issues with me. He seems displeased and apologizes, says it should be fixed by tomorrow. After we get back home, we get a call from the body shop. The new hood latch release they installed broke in the technician's hand and a new part must be ordered. No ETA this time.

So this is the preferred body for our insurance. The shop proudly displays "USAA Five Star" blah blah bullsh*t. In addition to the original $7000 estimate, an extra $500 was billed to insurance for supplemtal repairs. Just call me when it's ACTUALLY ready.

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The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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Strange happening on the Lin Cont. Sunday, we drove 1.4 miles. Car sat about 2 hours. Started home and the A/C was stuck on warm, no cool, no heat. When home I did the diag check 3 finger buttons and no codes. Started it up, max heat and air in right place but luke warm. Max cool and suddenly it went to cold and been ok since.

 

Strange part: same issue with my last Lin Cont, same trip, same weather. I got a code from it but the code was invalid, no listing. Reset and it was OK from then on.

 

Strange events do not make me confident in my cars.

 

-chart-

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Cougar finally got the new radiator I have been putting off since last year.

Looking into coilovers. Getting ready for my 300mm brake swap.

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Chart-did your evaporator core freeze over?

I do not think so. Car was parked about 2 hours and the issue was immediate after starting. And the heat would not work.

 

But it is a good thought, just reasioning how it could be.

And a side note: Lin puts the blend door motor in a horrible place. On top and you have to remove the inst panel/dash to get to it. I just looked it up just in case. Makes me appreciate Bulls.

Thanks.

 

-chart-

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Chart-did your evaporator core freeze over?

More I think about it, maybe good call on your part.

In this area we get Fall weather, cool fogy mornings ~50F. Then the sun pops through and things heat up quickly. In my case, 1.4 miles local roads in the cool fogy air might cause a temp freeze and cause the system to default. But there was no code. 3 finger reset and all is fine now. The Lin codes are nothing like Bull codes.

 

Wife plans ~250 mile trip Friday so hope all is well with it.

 

-chart-

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I did my first repair to my Olds, common GM Failure is the wiper pulse module, $13 later, my front wipers work like a dream :wub:

 

Symptoms include: Won't park correctly, won't shut off due to bad relay, or intermittent feature inoperable.

 

I already bought new speakers for it on Crutchfield, the stock speakers are trash.

 

A small list of things the 98 needs:

 

Full tuneup (Wires, spark plugs (OEM Plugs are iridium), cap/rotor, fuel filter, air filter, oil, some sea foaming, since it's DexCool - Radiator flush to be safe, and PCV Valve

Check on brakes, Parking brake does not work, and there is a grinding/squealing noise, suspected bad parking brake shoes

Transmission service. Gotta figure out how to service an AWD System.

 

Something I would love to do to the Bravada: Swap a Blazer/Jimmy/S10 manual transmission in it :D

 

Trucks and manuals are amazing, I might get better fuel economy with a manual in it. I am sure someone has swapped manuals into their GMT330

 

The Thunderbird Supercoupe - I ordered a new alternator for it, it was actually cheaper to buy a new one than to rebuild it. I do plan to sell the Supercoupe, I can't justify having this many cars. I love it, but I can't have 2 MN-12's when both are sort of impractical. Blue bird stays even though she kind of needs more work. If anyone is interested in possibly buying it... There is a TSOC Discount, It's not mint, but it's far from being a beater.

 

I plan to downside to have the following fleet:

95 Wagon

95 T-Bird

98 Olds

And maybe the motorcycle - still on the fence since I fixed it up.

 

The 2002 Sable once I get her fixed up a bit more I plan to give to my in-laws since they're struggling hard, and they just had a baby making me an uncle and a Godfather, and they kind of need something reliable. It looks like s**t, but it'll be reliable for at least a few more years.

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Your awd system is easy. It's actually an auto 4x4 system. Has a normal transfer case but is electronically controlled to connect the front axle when wheel slip is determined. Just have to service the transfer case fluid.

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How to service a transfer case...always break the fill plug open first, then then drain plug.  Install drain plug and fill until the transmission fluid spills out the fill plug. Done.

 

I wouldn't mess with changing the axle fluid, its a messy stinky job and there's really no reason to change it unless your having problems or the axle has been submerged.

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That is good to know about the Bravada. It does run and drive beautifully. I love it so far. But I still think it is important to address everything. The Death-Cool looks nice and clean, but I still want to flush it anyway. Better safe than sorry.

 

I did nothing on the Olds today, however, did a ton more progress today.

 

Start with the 89 S/C - It now is fixed. New alternator, I used the core from the 95 T-Bird steering rack to put toward the alternator, I bought it for about $26 after the core return, that also clears out the garage a bit more too :) However, I had a small scare, I had a bad multimeter that was showing 17+VDC with the car running, and 14 VDC with car off, at first I thought it was overcharging, however, I went from a $20 multimeter to a nice $300 Fluke Multimeter - proper 13.27+VDC - sometimes a cheap multimeter isn't an accurate one. A good one will last.

 

Began removing some things on the wrecked 05 Taurus, I will be going through the car, and things that are good for sale will be listed later. However, not much is really there.

 

Took the 95 Taurus Wagon for a legal drive, somehow it didn't die, but it felt horrible with the rusty brakes.

 

95 T-Bird - I did take apart the MFS again, cleaned it out, put it together, now I have working indicators, however, I do not have working flash-to-pass. I will take the 95 Taurus MFS and put it in the T-Bird.

 

Plan for the 05 Taurus is to begin gutting it, and using my garage to lay everything out, so both Birds will sit outside while the Taurus is being rebuilt, I am also slowly throwing things away in my garage, I got too much junk in there.

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That is good to know about the Bravada. It does run and drive beautifully. I love it so far. But I still think it is important to address everything. The Death-Cool looks nice and clean, but I still want to flush it anyway. Better safe than sorry.

 

I did nothing on the Olds today, however, did a ton more progress today.

 

Start with the 89 S/C - It now is fixed. New alternator, I used the core from the 95 T-Bird steering rack to put toward the alternator, I bought it for about $26 after the core return, that also clears out the garage a bit more too :) However, I had a small scare, I had a bad multimeter that was showing 17+VDC with the car running, and 14 VDC with car off, at first I thought it was overcharging, however, I went from a $20 multimeter to a nice $300 Fluke Multimeter - proper 13.27+VDC - sometimes a cheap multimeter isn't an accurate one. A good one will last.

 

Began removing some things on the wrecked 05 Taurus, I will be going through the car, and things that are good for sale will be listed later. However, not much is really there.

 

Took the 95 Taurus Wagon for a legal drive, somehow it didn't die, but it felt horrible with the rusty brakes.

 

95 T-Bird - I did take apart the MFS again, cleaned it out, put it together, now I have working indicators, however, I do not have working flash-to-pass. I will take the 95 Taurus MFS and put it in the T-Bird.

 

Plan for the 05 Taurus is to begin gutting it, and using my garage to lay everything out, so both Birds will sit outside while the Taurus is being rebuilt, I am also slowly throwing things away in my garage, I got too much junk in there.

 

I can't pass up good meters at garage sales. See pic, all these thus. The Simpson 260 on the right, new in the box with extra leads. Next to right best meter in the bunch, I think I gave 35 for it, but it is "true rms" which is uncommon but useful to me. Also does cap. frequency, auto range or manual range, auto shutoff or not, and such. Far left very good accurate but not on AC. It starts at not zero. Old but works otherwise. Second from left, low end autorange only.

 

The analog meter is useful for some things. As to DC, I can compare meter to meter and see if there is any I prefer to not use but they all agree within less than 1%. The one on the left does MA to 4 places while other digital go 3 places.

 

I also keep lesser meters, one in the laundry room for battery stuff, one in the computer room for watch batterys, one in each of my cars I drive. And have 2 clamp on AC current meters.

 

But I use them.

 

-chart-

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I can't pass up good meters at garage sales. See pic, all these thus. The Simpson 260 on the right, new in the box with extra leads. Next to right best meter in the bunch, I think I gave 35 for it, but it is "true rms" which is uncommon but useful to me. Also does cap. frequency, auto range or manual range, auto shutoff or not, and such. Far left very good accurate but not on AC. It starts at not zero. Old but works otherwise. Second from left, low end autorange only.

 

The analog meter is useful for some things. As to DC, I can compare meter to meter and see if there is any I prefer to not use but they all agree within less than 1%. The one on the left does MA to 4 places while other digital go 3 places.

 

I also keep lesser meters, one in the laundry room for battery stuff, one in the computer room for watch batterys, one in each of my cars I drive. And have 2 clamp on AC current meters.

 

But I use them.

 

-chart-

The 3 digital in the pic, volts on a new 9V range 0.03 or +/-0.01V which is about =/- 0.1% I do not have any reading that is that important.

But I did a cheap meter and it showed ~7V so I replaced  the battery in it and then it was fine. Seems it did not have a low bat warning like the good ones.

9.55 to 9.53V Then I noticed the more I tested the bat the lower the volts. Seems my hand was warming the battery.

-chart-

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The XC90 is going back to the body shop. The hood doesn't quite line up with headlights. Paint on the edges of the hood is very thin and missing in a couple places. Grease and paint smears on the interior.

The VW is going in for a timing belt service. Coming up on 140k miles... 20k overdue.

Took the C230 to Discount Tire yesterday for a rotation and balance. Salesman talked me into 4 new tires. Old tires were Yokohama YK580. Front set lasted 20k, rears only 10k. Last set of the same tires went 15k. Mileage warranty was to 45,000 so the old tires were prorated. 4 new Pirelli Cinturatos for under $500 out the door. 70,000 mileage warranty. 700 tread wear versus 580 on the Yokos. We have the same tires on the VW and they have done very well. Salesman commented that the heavier Mercedes was probably the reason the Yokos wore out so fast. Car drives like a dream on new rubber.

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You said this was a preferred shop. I saw on 20/20 that preferred shops only do what insurance says they can do. They stated you should really check up on preferred shops as they are ran by the insurance company most of the time and may cut corners or do bad work. Sorry to hear you're having these issues. Hopefully they get it all fixed up for you.

Jeff

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The XC90 is going back to the body shop. The hood doesn't quite line up with headlights. Paint on the edges of the hood is very thin and missing in a couple places. Grease and paint smears on the interior.

 

 

This is all kinds of ****** up.  :Picard2:  :rant:

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Ya it's been a joke. All we can do now is laugh and wait. We haven't even made our first car loan payment yet. This is the first major claim I've ever made against my auto insurance in almost 25 years of driving. (I filed for hit and run on the '99 SE once for a minor fender bender). I won't be returning to this shop. The general manager has been dealing with us since our first return and he seems sincerely interested in addressing our concerns. We used the shop because it's preferred by insurance and it's conveniently located (25 miles away is conveniently close for us). But next time we will find a different shop.

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That's horrible, it's why I hate service shops, too many piss poor quality places.

 

Now, I did finally change out the Oldsmobile's speakers. Only 1.5 actually worked, It has 4 speakers and 2 tweeters, I replaced all 4, and I replaced the tweeters with Ford JBL speakers from a 96 Taurus SHO.

 

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Good ol' Pioneers for the doors.

 

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The tweeters mount in the dash, I had to cut the base apart to make them fit.

 

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Size difference is amazing, the stock tweeters were blown up, so now I have sound, and it sounds great even with the s**tty Kenwood head unit :D

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I never posted pictures of my new car here, I've just been so damn busy I never get around to syncing my phone these days.

 

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And... The one to blame for selling me my first personal-owned General Motors vehicle:

 

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So far I love it, it's fun to drive, comfortable, and in the cold the heated seats have proven to be amazing.

 

It does need a bit of work as posted before, but for the price I got it, pretty much a steal, and for a 1 owner midwestern vehicle, it has very little rust on it when I normally see these things rotted out. The only rot on this is the bumper, which is something I can easily replace, and intend to do. There is surface rust on the frame, but I intend to treat that before it gets any worse.

 

I also brought an auxiliary cable to try this song in the Olds:

 

 

Sounds even better with the speaker upgrade ;)

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Do it ;)

 

I did, it goes to an automatic prompt.

 

For comparison, they are not generic GM lines, I checked with 1800-Chev-USA for the Chevrolet hotline, I was shocked to see GM maintaining all these lines. I am sure once you answer the prompts on the call, it goes to a generic GM call center operator who can see if you called from Olds, Pontiac, GMC, Chevrolet, etc.

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I think the alternator is failing the Marquis. The charging lamp will flash for a few seconds and go away after I have been driven around 3 or 4 miles. I guess I'll cruise down to the junkyard and see if there's another 6G alternator sitting around.

 

The current alternator is a replacement anyhow, but the donor car was a '98 P71 and the alternator had 233K on it and it showed. I think it has close to 250K or more on it now since I put it in.

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I began installing a new head unit in the C230. Wasn't able to finish in a day. I got as far as hooking up and testing the new stereo but didn't finish programming the interface for the steering wheel controls.

I ordered a Clarion CD player from Crutchfield. Had a $100 gift card to use. The Clarion was the only double DIN stereo with a built in mic. I didn't want to run wire for an external mic. The one thing the C230 lacks is Bluetooth. Some reviews stated the internal mic on the Clarion wasn't the best. I'm hoping the quieter interior of the Mercedes works better for the mic.

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It's a great truck so far, that truck looks like it wasn't quite 100% cared for. Talking to my neighbor who has had a few GMT330's says they're pretty rock solid as long as basic maintenance.

 

Thankfully, GM provides free of charge:

 

http://www.oldsmobile.com/content/dam/oldsmobile/northamerica/usa/nscwebsite/en/Home/Owners/Owner_Resources/Manuals/en/us/1998/bravada/1998-oldsmobile-bravada-owners-manual.pdf

 

The original owners manual, which is very detailed, including how to off-road properly in the vehicle :P

 

I'll need to print this out at work :lol::ph34r:

 

Kind of nice to see GM offers owners manuals all the way back to 1993, has a bit more detail than the one I got from a newer Blazer.

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