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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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Then my Blue Bird - The MFS is going bad... My right indicator isn't working right. So I gotta take that damn thing apart to service that or replace it. So I gotta hold it carefully to get my right indicator to work.

 

When I had that happen in a Ranger I just removed the MFS and hosed it out with electrical contact cleaner. Worked fine after that.

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The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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We havent even made our first payment and the car is going into the body shop.....ugh

 

Wife said she didnt swerve at all. Which is better than attempting avoidance and over correcting.

 

I can say that the XC-90 does hold the road very well. It doesn't feel as top heavy as other SUVs. Body roll is well controlled.

 

Your really never supposed to swerve to avoid wildlife, that's how you end up rolling your car and killing yourself when you hit a tree or land upside down in a ditch.  Hitting a 180lb white tailed deer at 50mph won't kill you but hitting the 15" oak tree along the road might.  I've always heard and been told to just brake and hit whatever it is straight on.  A lot of times swerving ends up confusing the deer or what have you and it will run back into you. 

 

When my mom smashed up the 2003 Escape she was going 65mph, the deer decided to run toward the car instead of back into the woods, and bang.  Didn't swerve or anything, just applied the brakes to try to lessen the impact.

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I bought this piece of crap today. Paid more than I should have but I really wanted the seats out of it. It's an 02 35th anniversary car. Black with silver perforated leather inserts on the seats. Will be parting it out and saving a few things for myself. The girl I bought it from said rear wheel bearing was out but after driving it I determined that the strut was just no longer attached at the top. I decided to drive it 70 miles back knowing the issues it had, including but certainly not limited to rod knock. Made it about 50 miles when the engine grenaded at 60mph. Talk about a smoke show. 9 codes in the computer too for various issues. Oil was about twice as full as it should have been. What a piece of trash.

Anyway, after ditching the car to go get the truck we make it back and it is already dark out. For the sake of safety both the Cougar and the F150 had their four ways on. Didn't take more than half hour to prep the car to leave (town bar and rear lights) get in the truck to back it up and the battery is dead. Pull battery from Cougar to try to jump it. Still not enough juice. After making a few phone calls and trying to get someone to come rescue us at midnight a state trooper pulls up and jumps us. Back in business! But the fun wasn't over just yet.

Car is dropped off and I am only a mile from home when the brakes blow out on the F150 -_- limp it home and carefully get it in the driveway. So glad they did not blow earlier and especially with the car behind.

And now it is 3:30 in the morning and I am wound up from the eventful day. Time for bed.

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Started at 1pm yesterday on teardown. As of 8:45 last night is what you see in the pic. Too dark to get more pictures after removing the wheels, fenders, and rear bumper cover.

Looks like cylinder number one is the one that blew

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Just finished replacing the rear window regulators. Left rear door had previously had its regulator replaced and the shop used nuts and bolts instead of re-riveting the regulator again. I wasn't as lucky with the right rear door as it was OE. My punches I had ordered failed to arrive today so I look a crappy Philips head screw driver that had a rounded off head and used it as a punch instead. :D It worked well and got all of the rivets punched out, even the ones that went through the glass.

 

Failed regulators:

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Replacement AC Delco regulators:
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The AC Delco ones cost a bit more than the Dorman ones, but I've heard some meh reviews on the Dorman ones, so I opted against those..The AC Delco regulators also included a baggie with all of the necessary replacement flange bolts, lock washers, and nuts, which was nice to have prepackaged.

 

Now the rears work properly again! They haven't been useable in around 2 years. I just never bothered to fix them since rarely anyone rode back there.

 

Tomorrow or Friday my left front regulator and motor should be in. That'll be the last window that needs repair and I'll have all four working again.

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Glad to hear you got them replaced !! Good work. I like the older design much better!

I assume the older regulators have a more robust design. I just hope these last for a while since it takes a good 30 to 45 minutes to get everything stripped out of the door. At least it gives you a good excuse to clean the whole window while it's out of the car. :)

 

The driver's regulator and motor will be in tomorrow and that'll fully wrap up this project.

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I am now the proud owner of my very own Oldsmobile. Bought a 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada yesterday. Drives like a dream, and somehow this 98 is in much better condition than the 02 Sable... Someone loved their Olds :wub:

 

 

Needs a little work, but shouldn't be much hopefully.

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Estimate to repair the XC90 is $6953.58. Over half of what we paid for the vehicle just under a month ago. The hood and radiator fans are used from LKQ, while radiator, headlamps, and condenser are aftermarket. Each headlamp is listed at $340. RockAuto lists the same lamp for $275 (CAPA certified). Used hood lists at $875. Used bumper cover lists for $850. Reconditioned hood and bumper from RockAuto lists at $315 and $200 respectively, with shipping adding $175. I'm calling my adjuster in the morning. I'm just paying the deductible, but there's no reason for such a high mark up.

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Damn, I paid under that to do a full restoration to my 95 Thunderbird, and she was in rough shape...

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I am now the proud owner of my very own Oldsmobile. Bought a 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada yesterday. Drives like a dream, and somehow this 98 is in much better condition than the 02 Sable... Someone loved their Olds :wub:

Needs a little work, but shouldn't be much hopefully.

My aunt had a Bravada. Someone hit her head on, the engine pushed back into the passenger compartment, pinned her under the steering wheel, then started on fire. Luckily the fire department got her out before more damage was done to her.

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Like the Sable is a gussied up Taurus, the Oldsmobile Bravado is the blinged out version of the Blazer/GMC Jimmy. They all did it and we bought it.

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Like the Sable is a gussied up Taurus, the Oldsmobile Bravado is the blinged out version of the Blazer/GMC Jimmy. They all did it and we bought it.

 

Yep, however, thankfully GM did enough for the Olds version to make it a bit unique such as SmartTrak intelligent AWD. It's RWD unless it detects slipping then engages power to the wheels it needs. GMC and Chevy versions had a manual selector for 4x4. Not sure if the others offered it, but the thing also has heated seats which is amazing in there. I am happy with it. It's small, but spacious. And the powerful Vortec V6 ought to be able to haul some stuff around. Good when it comes time to scrap Brian's 05 Taurus.

 

My aunt had a Bravada. Someone hit her head on, the engine pushed back into the passenger compartment, pinned her under the steering wheel, then started on fire. Luckily the fire department got her out before more damage was done to her.

 

Ouch, glad she survived. Front end collisions aren't good no matter what.

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Installed new driver's regulator and motor. Had four flawlessly operating windows until I was heading home from work and dropped all four and found the right rear window gave up. The little nylon plugs in the gear disintegrated. :angryfire:

Of course I'm not going to let that stupidity stop me. Since the driver's motor had failed the same way, I grabbed the old driver's regulator/motor combo from the trash, pulled off the motor, and I opened it up for a quick rebuild so I could put it in the rear door. Cleaned out the inner works of all the ground up nylon bushings and dropped in three 1/4" bolts from when I removed the busted regulator in the left rear door. Filled the gear case with white lithium grease and sealed it up. Opened up the door again, simply unbolted the motor from the door, separated it from the regulator, installed the rebuilt motor, and closed everything back up. Window goes up and down properly again. :D

 

I'm going to keep my eye on the left rear since it might do the same thing. At least it's a simple fix.

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pantherproblems haha. Good work fixing it. That was all your driver door one needed originally. Permanent fix is to use metal bearings instead of plastic for the motor.

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Picked up the C230 from my buddy's shop. He replaced a broken check valve buried between the supercharger and block. Also tightened the parking brake and got an alignment. Car rides much better after the alignment. Glad to have it back.

Bad news on my VFR800. I got everything apart and found the thermostat. Replacement was straightforward once it was accessible. The old thermostat was clearly stuck open. However, I found some wiring that has been chewed by mice. No broken wires, but all the insulation has been nibbled off. No telling how long it's been like that. The bike has never given any error messages. Looks to be wiring to a knock sensor and something else, maybe crank. The fun never ends!

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The Marquis is scheduled to go in tomorrow for brake service. The right front brake assembly hasn't been quite right for some time, it's always had some pulsation, but has otherwise stopped fine. Today someone pulled an illegal u-turn on a two lane road in front of me while I was doing around 35 MPH, and under moderate braking there was pop and it felt like the ABS kicked in on that side. The car now pulls right significantly with hands off the wheel and the wheel turns about 30 degrees from center.

 

I pulled off the tire and checked out the caliper and rotor. It doesn't turn freely and has one point where it really likes to stick. Worst case, the whole caliper will need replacing, or it could just be as minor as the slide pins being stuck.

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Welp, the brakes weren't the issue on the car today. They're fine actually. All of my wonky steering fell back on the near 156K idler arm. Bushings were shot and it was a complete slop fest. The alignment was way out. Mind you, about four months ago, the car got a serious front end overhaul and was aligned to spec. That's literally how terrible that idler arm was making things. Surprised the dealer didn't catch that when they did the ball joints and inspected everything else before Nick and I did the shocks and sway bar end links. Needless to say, I knew for a fact that the dealer wouldn't be able to take the car today, so I took it to Tires Plus and got the idler arm replaced plus an alignment. They said everything else was solid, and gave me some preventive maintenance items to watch for, one being the serpentine belt having hairline cracks, and the rear brake pads are down to 4mm.

 

I've ordered the belt, and I'll take care of the brakes towards the holidays.

 

 

BTW, I will say Tires Plus is a lot nicer compared to my dealer's service department, they seem much more customer service geared. I will say, however, I wouldn't ever do a belt service through them, because of the mark ups. The Dayco belt they would have used ran 59.99 + 52.50 labor. Amazon's Price: 19.50. But I did one better, I got a Gatorback belt on closeout through RockAuto for 12.15 shipped. I'm not paying $112.40 to put on a serpentine belt.

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