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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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My brother had a Dual Spark Mazda/Ford Ranger, he quit changing the "waste" spark plugs since changing those out involved taking the intake apart, never once did a Check engine come on, or other problems.

What year? I never had to disassemble the intake to replace all 8 plugs. The intake is molded to give just enough room for a socket and extension.

@Thub: agreed, dual plugs are mostly for emissions. Dual plug conversions on older Harleys will make a noticeable increase in power.

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Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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I think it was a 98 or 99, the Mazda B2500 ranger with the 2.5L.

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Dad's is a '99 Ranger, 2.5L. I know the manual says to remove the manifold, but it's not necessary. Hardest part is getting the wires off which are underneath the manifold. Just need a spark plug socket to retrieve and place the plugs. 5/8" deep socket to tighten. (my spark plug socket likes to stick to the plug and come off the extension, hence the need for the additional socket).

 

Dad's Ranger is around 300k miles now. Water pump failed last week. He had it repaired at a shop... back on the road. Grandpa's '94 Ranger 2.3L (also dual plug) is over 300k. Replaced the fuel pump last summer. He drives it everyday.

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His reverse gear went out, and it was a total rust bucket, thing had over 250k and no trans service ever... motor was still strong 

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85 Octane... Wtf? I wouldn't even put that in my lawn mower.

 

We used to have this old Michigan front end loader. Not sure how old... my guess is from the late '60s. "75 octane minimum" was embossed on the side of the engine block. I always found that strange because I had never seen any gasoline rated lower than 85 octane.

 

(I dug around the web to find the old beast. It was a model 125A)

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Dad's is a '99 Ranger, 2.5L. I know the manual says to remove the manifold, but it's not necessary. Hardest part is getting the wires off which are underneath the manifold. Just need a spark plug socket to retrieve and place the plugs. 5/8" deep socket to tighten. (my spark plug socket likes to stick to the plug and come off the extension, hence the need for the additional socket).

 

Dad's Ranger is around 300k miles now. Water pump failed last week. He had it repaired at a shop... back on the road. Grandpa's '94 Ranger 2.3L (also dual plug) is over 300k. Replaced the fuel pump last summer. He drives it everyday.

 

See pic, my plug tools. Note: I put masking tape on the one extesion and drive it into the socket. It will stay. For the Lin Cont, need all 3 extensions to get the back ones.

-chart-

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I got a free Delco Electronics/Chevy CD player for my GMC Savana, sadly, it is broken. When I plug it in, it quickly comes up on Radio, then shuts off right away. The clock recall works when pushing it, and the clock can be set. As far as the radio is concerned, the car is off. I don't see why GM would change wiring between the AM/FM model and the CD Player version. Unless there is supposed to be an amp that is missing...

 

It does have TheftLock, but it's not flashing or saying LOC. I hope I can fix this, me and my GMC are going from Chicago to Springfield, IL on Friday, I kind of want better audio quality... :P

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Watched the car develop a new feature over the weekend. It now blows the interior circuit fuse controlling clock, radio, seat belt light, power mirrors, instrument cluster back lighting, all interior lamps, auto lamps, and the RKE keypad and door lock switches (though the key fob makes them work fine).

 

I have to drive 12 hours tomorrow, kinda wanted to listen to the radio and streaming audio over my phone would sound/be terrible. Gotta find what's shorting, and it's going to be a pisser. I do know, however, it only blows when put in accessory or on.

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Do you have an aftermarket stereo?

 

 

 

Also, I gave up on the broken GM/Delco radio, tried to find the pin from 12VDC Remote to wherever, the stereo won't power on, it acts as if there is no power supplied, which is why someone was throwing it away at work I suppose. Was worth a shot. :P

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I attempted to replace the hood struts on the 2004 Grand Cherokee with two I grabbed at the junkyard, of course they for some reason also didn't hold the hood up. Otherwise my "office on wheels" is running pretty good.

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Went hunting for the short with the tester. Results seemed generally inconclusive. I could not find an "exact" point where anything had rubbed wire sheathing to expose bare strands. I checked a questionable wire on the visor since it looked possibly pinched, wrapped it up with electrical tape and readjusted it. Popped in a 15 amp fuse, no blow. From there I slowly started plugging things back in with the ignition on. The fuse never blew over the course of the reconnecting of all driver's door panel connectors and once everything was put together, all switches and toggles were functioning properly.

I took the car over some rough road just to see if anything would be jostled and short out should I have missed something. Wound up with an inconclusive situation. I don't know what directly caused the issue since I could never make a 100% positive I.D. on the troubled area, but I feel that the visor might have had a hand in the issue, but I can't be for certain. I'll keep my eye on the circuit and keep my driving local until I feel comfortable the issue is reasonably resolved.

For now, everything is in working order, and that is something I can live with. :)

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I changed the oil on the 2003 Escape, I think I finally developed a nice little splash shield to prevent the oil from spraying all over when it hits the subframe/control arm recall brace that was installed last summer.  I took a 1 gallon milk jug and cut it in half and then sliced it down even further.  Punched a hole in it and secured it in front of the bracket with a zip tie. So now when the drain plug is pulled the oil splashes off the milk jug and then waterfalls down into the catch pan.

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Bought Goodyear Eagle Sport 225/60/16 V rated for the T-Bird. Might be selling the old 215/70R15 tires and wheels soon. Debating what to do with them

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Scored a full set of Mercury splash guards today.

ynV5LX.jpg

 

I went ahead and did the rears because why not.

I had to attempt an eyeball setup since I was having a difficult time finding any type of part number for them to get a installation guide. I did eventually find the info I needed after all was said and done, apparently Ford calls for them to be mounted where they're 6 inches from the ground, -/+ 0.5 inch. I got them both mounted at around 6.75 inches just working on using photos on the internet. :D

 

Excuse the filth from the tires slinging crap all over the bumper. The weather was extra crappy today with storms and such.
4S6zO6.jpg

4Pg1zm.jpg

 

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They should work fine given the setup. I'll do the fronts later since those will require some drilling into the lower fender lip. I plan to get some touch up paint and silicone to put in the holes once they are made (trying to prevent any corrosion; the North Dakota donor car didn't have rust at the screw points if that means anything).

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Changed the headlight bulbs prior to getting my harness upgrade (I want to be able to make a comparison). The old SilverStars were dimming on the low beams from age/use and the filament was looking pretty eaten. The high beams were better, but I changed them regardless to try something different.

Close up of the bulbs:
Ki0VBa.jpg

Low beams are Philips Diamond Vision HB4s (9006s). Available on Amazon for a pretty reasonable price. Bought them based on suggestion from ShelbyRacer. They have very white light with a barely noticeable tint of blue.

The high beams are Optilux XY Selective Yellow Bulbs HB3 (9005). I am trying them out as an alternative to running another white color bulb on the highs. If I don't find them to be decent in the application, I'll replace them with a white bulb since they didn't cost that much.

 

 

After doing some night driving, I really love this setup. Low beams are perfect for in town illumination and light up the area well with crisp white light. The high beams are great over the open road and are easy on the eyes at distances and when illuminating signs since the reflectors don't glare as sharply as a white high beam would while providing excellent lighting distance .

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Changed the headlight bulbs prior to getting my harness upgrade (I want to be able to make a comparison). The old SilverStars were dimming on the low beams from age/use and the filament was looking pretty eaten. The high beams were better, but I changed them regardless to try something different.

Close up of the bulbs:

Ki0VBa.jpg

Low beams are Philips Diamond Vision HB4s (9006s). Available on Amazon for a pretty reasonable price. Bought them based on suggestion from ShelbyRacer. They have very white light with a barely noticeable tint of blue.

The high beams are Optilux XY Selective Yellow Bulbs HB3 (9005). I am trying them out as an alternative to running another white color bulb on the highs. If I don't find them to be decent in the application, I'll replace them with a white bulb since they didn't cost that much.

 

 

After doing some night driving, I really love this setup. Low beams are perfect for in town illumination and light up the area well with crisp white light. The high beams are great over the open road and are easy on the eyes at distances and when illuminating signs since the reflectors don't glare as sharply as a white high beam would while providing excellent lighting distance .

 

For the record, standard bulbs rated 320 hours at 12.8V. OK math, 320 hours at 50 mph = 16,000 miles of life. Since both mine factory wires, 11.8V at the bulb, = life 3.7X.

OK, give me light forget the life.

-chart-

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I got a wheel well cover finally installed in my Blue Bird, I temporarily fixed the old one with duct tape since the POS was cracked in half.

 

This means I will be doing a lot more driving in my favorite car.

 

I did drive it, and charged the A/C with UV Leak to find leaks, and I took it to Sam's Club and I saw this

 

20150706_121122.jpg

 

20150706_121135.jpg

 

 

Sexiest Turbo Coupe I've ever seen :wub:

 

Too bad the owner never showed up. I decided it was safe to park Blue next to it since nobody parked near us lol

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It with my MN-12 is the most beautiful thing Ive ever seen... I wanna buy that owner a beer for maintaining such a beautiful bird.

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I just wish I never had to own it... And that thing remained with my grandma, not me... :(

 

At least for another 20 years, 75 is too young... :(

 

 

I remember when I bought my first car, my 95 Contour, and my grandma was saying to me how we both had the same year car and how she said they were like siblings, I miss her voice, I miss seeing her behind the wheel of that car... I'll never forget the times I shared with my grandmother. I loved her so much, which is why I love that Thunderbird so much, so much great memories of her with it.

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Let there be lights!

 

bN7GTH.jpg

 

I got my upgraded headlight harness today from a CVN member. Virtually plug and play in this setup, I just had to make a minor extension, otherwise everything on it is solid.

 

I'm really digging the extra light output.

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Just picked up my mom's Explorer from the shop this morning. The compressor seized over the weekend, so we needed a new compressor installed along with a few other random A/C bits. Truck has 123,xxx miles.

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Haven't posted any pics of the new car since the winter so...

 

Today I got her all nice and clean:

 

20150710_173733_zpsyb3xgk8q.jpg

 

20150710_173740_zpsp82fcaqs.jpg

 

I just polished and waxed the hood last week. Same with the trunk lid. Will have to do the rest of the car sometime. Already did the whole car back in the spring but it's time for a summer wax.

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