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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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You know what they say, "when in doubt throttle out". This usually ends with the car getting muddy.

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The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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Rack Delivered, let's hope I have a T-Bird LX by the end of the day :)

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Got a fantastic phone call today!!!! The new rack is installed, BIG amazing difference.

 

We actually measured the threads, the AutoZone Rack gave us 2.5 Inches of threads, the stock and O'Reilly rack gave us 3 3/4 inches of threads...

 

I am furious at that s**t store, they sell s**t products, and just more reason to never shop there again. Let's count:

 

AutoZone Water Pump in the 3.8L Essex: Ruined my car. Car ran great until that pump failed by seizing up. The pump cursed my car.

 

AutoZone steering rack: Not even enough threads to properly align the car.

 

AutoZone Batteries in the past: They'd die after looking at them. One thing I found out about O'Reillys, they actually rotate their batteries to prevent old batteries from sitting on the shelf. If a battery gets past a certain age, they drop the price in half and sell it as a reconditioned battery after it's been charged and tested.

 

My Thunderbird LX has a Meijer (Grocery store) battery, it's lasted a lot longer than any Duralast, DieHard, or even Interstate battery I've ever owned. Kind of sad when a grocery store sells better car parts than a car part place. I used to work at AZ Long ago, I don't remember it being this horrific. But, I did leave that crapshack for a reason.

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Kevin,

 

I'm pretty sure everyone sources from the same manufacturer......A1 Cardone.  I can't speak for AZ, but I know both Advance and OReilly source reman parts from A1 Cardone.  Seems to me that sometimes they have better quality control than other times.  I wonder if these racks came from the same manufacturer?

 

Brian beat me to it.....just sayin', but he's probably right.

 

Jeff

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According to my brother, O'Reilly's brand is MasterPro and generally come from AC Delco Mexico in reboxed packaging. AutoZone was probably A1 Cardone or Atsco. Although sometimes many of their products are even OEM in their own boxes.

 

 

Based on how I saw the reman quality between the two, I can't say it'd come from the same supplier, there's a huge difference in quality in just the way they boxed it up and the instructions. I'll have to study the box once I get it home to see if there are any other markings on it.

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Steering has never been better. Drives like a dream. :)

Now to put the front passenger seat in which I steam cleaned, put the center console in, put some trim back in, and it'll be a full Bird. :wub:

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Changed oil in the LTD yesterday. So refreshing being able to do it outside.

 

Cranked over the Olds this morning to make sure the battery had held its charge. Didn't bother starting it since there's too much stuff in the way and I wouldn't've been able to back it out of the barn. Going to try to get it on the lift sometime in the next couple months and track down the ATF leak.

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Replaced the coil and swapped injectors on the 3L SVTC. It's running properly again. The old coil was a Screamin' Demon performance coil which had been in the car for about 30k miles. I didn't see any cracks on the body. The engine would stumble under a load. Light to mid throttle and stumble. Previously I had replaced plugs, wires, and swapped in another set injectors. Fuel pressure tested OK. Coil was the last piece. I purchased the least expensive coil from RockAuto. Once installed, problem solved.

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Changed oil in the C230 today. That stuff was black. Used Mobil 1 0w-40 as called for by the book, this time around. Service interval is 13,000 miles. I really do not like not having a dipstick to check the oil level. The info center only gives an "OK" when the oil level is in spec. There is a "secret" service menu which gives the oil level in liters, but only while the engine is running, so it's not accurate to the total fill.

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It's a good thing the Contour is fixed. Driving home from work this morning in the C230, check engine light comes on, engine running rough. I pull into a well lit parking lot. Fortunately my code reader is in the car. Pull the code P0304. Misfire cyl 4. The plugs are almost new but the coils are original. I'm really hoping it's just a bad coil cuz that's a simple fix. I limped the car home another 25 miles on 3 cylinders. Not something I would normally do but my wife and I each have hair appointments this morning an hour away. I'm getting shaggy.

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Changed oil in the C230 today. That stuff was black. Used Mobil 1 0w-40 as called for by the book, this time around. Service interval is 13,000 miles. I really do not like not having a dipstick to check the oil level. The info center only gives an "OK" when the oil level is in spec. There is a "secret" service menu which gives the oil level in liters, but only while the engine is running, so it's not accurate to the total fill.

 

 

German engineering. 

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The Marquis is at the dealer. I thought the front end was about to let go today as I was leaving downtown. I got a loud clunk with every bump the driver's side wheel went over. The dust boots have been torn on the ball joints and sway bar end links for some time, but they were kept greased, however it was only putting off the inevitable. 150K of service, good enough, now for the front end to get freshened up.

 

 

I'm just waiting for an estimate... :ohnoes:

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The Marquis is at the dealer. I thought the front end was about to let go today as I was leaving downtown. I got a loud clunk with every bump the driver's side wheel went over. The dust boots have been torn on the ball joints and sway bar end links for some time, but they were kept greased, however it was only putting off the inevitable. 150K of service, good enough, now for the front end to get freshened up.

 

 

I'm just waiting for an estimate... :ohnoes:

 

 

 

:makeadeal:  :merc:

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:makeadeal:  :merc:

Looks like this will be a drawn out process as I put in about $1500 of labor+parts. :suicide:  I can only do basic work in my garage, so I got to pay up for a shop to do the work.

 

Taking care of upper and lower ball joints first, along with two brake caliper bolts that were missing (the brakes were just done and everything was re-torqued to spec. I had no extras of anything laying around)??? What the hell ever. Running about $800.

 

Next week after payday front and rear shocks. Going to order KYB Gas-A-Justs for Police Interceptors to stiffen the ride some. That'll probably be around $250 installed. Apparently the ones right now have got some bending going on and the control arms could be damaged, so gotta take care of that soon.

 

Sway bar end links are after that. I haven't either bothered to price those yet.

 

All I know is that if I had everything replaced in one swing, I'd be paying that figure at the top in one sitting, which I really rather not do. I'm trying to avoid denting up my savings account for repairs.

 

 

So why does all of this stuff need replacing? Everything is 150K, 18 year old originals holding up the car. While the drivetrain has been kept in good order by the previous owner and myself, suspension stuff has been allowed to get bad. I have no one to blame but myself, and I've got to pay the price.

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Why is that costing you so much, you can get both sides, upper and lower control arms with ball joints by Moog for $260 from Rockauto. KYB front police shocks are $35 and have a rebate, same for the rear. Moog front sway bar end links are $11 each.

 

So your looking at $500 in parts. That job should not cost over $1000, its a southern car and should come apart like butter compared to what we deal with up here. Just find a shop that will let you bring in your parts.

 

You should be able to do shocks on your own, that can't be very hard.  I know the rear setup is stupid because Ford mounted the shocks inboard of the frame not outside where you can easily wrench on them.

 

 

I had the front end of the Explorer overhauled for less than $1000 and those are much larger and more complex components, and I'm sure all the bolts were nice and rusty.

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Why is that costing you so much, you can get both sides, upper and lower control arms with ball joints by Moog for $260 from Rockauto. KYB front police shocks are $35 and have a rebate, same for the rear. Moog front sway bar end links are $11 each.

Because dealership.

 

My mother wanted to have it taken to the dealer repair center just to ensure the work, so that was that. I did talk to the service adviser regarding bringing parts and having them install them and she said that was fine. I plan to order those KYB shocks and end links myself and have them do it next week. It will significantly knock down the price. I think a Motorcraft shock on RockAuto was around $35, so I could only imagine the dealer mark up.

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The 1997 Grand Marquis won't let the key turn :(

 

I think the key is just so worn down. I'm hoping I can get it to turn so I don't have to spend a ton of money to have a new key cut or replace the entire steering column.... Either way cross your fingers I can just find the key code!

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I have been collecting tons of parts for the Super Coupe the last few days:

Front seats

Rear seat back

Trunk latch assembly

Sub amp

Doors

Mirrors

Fenders

Antenna

Keyless module

Body harness

Audio harness

Strikers

Heads

Lower intake

Intake inlet

Exhaust manifolds

Wheels and tires

Hood struts

Pillar pod

Now I just need to get the car so I can start working on it.

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The 1997 Grand Marquis won't let the key turn :(

 

I think the key is just so worn down. I'm hoping I can get it to turn so I don't have to spend a ton of money to have a new key cut or replace the entire steering column.... Either way cross your fingers I can just find the key code!

A girl at work had a '98 Mustang and the key was super worn. I kept slightly adjusting the key in the ignition along with jiggling the steering wheel back and forth until I could get the ignition to turn.

 

You could try that if need be.

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A girl at work had a '98 Mustang and the key was super worn. I kept slightly adjusting the key in the ignition along with jiggling the steering wheel back and forth until I could get the ignition to turn.

You could try that if need be.

Been trying... To no avail. Will keep trying tomorrow. May have to break the cylinder out and replace it.

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Bring your car out here not this weekend but weekend after and I'll do shocks and end links. We'll fix your window too.

And no, shocks don't bend control arms wtf who told you that....

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Bring your car out here not this weekend but weekend after and I'll do shocks and end links. We'll fix your window too.

 

And no, shocks don't bend control arms wtf who told you that....

The lovely technician over at Ford told me about shocks bending control arms. Listening to the service adviser say that just made me go "What?". Just a dealership attempting to make more money off of the work needed by trying to get me to immediately okay the shock work.

 

Also, thanks for offering to help on the car. I really do appreciate it! :)

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