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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?


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I feel I should make it known that the trumpet is actually the highest note on the car right now. The regular high/low tones are from the 50s/60s, and are fairly deep.

 

When I'm talking about the Sparton set, it's like this (not my actual horns, but a good representation):

N0hNP7D.jpg

 

And then the trumpet.

 

It might be easier to source Cadillac/Buick four note sets, or you can try my route. For a high note trumpet substitution following a setup like mine, I'd just try the high note from a standard Fiamm set (typical on our cars).

 

 

Now, for those that are handy, I do have a Cadillac 3 note set on hand, which is a hi/lo and snail-shell trumpet note, but all three are not functional. Someone with a Dremel and a little time could get them open and unfreeze the coil, I bet. There's some how-to videos on Youtube for those older ones that need repair. Those would sound pretty serious if made functional.

 

IMO, this would be the coolest setup:

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The only trouble is if either of you try showing down on the street no one will think you're racing, just attempting to briskly accelerate.

Work day today for the '97. The brake shudder came back, so I went ahead and decided to see if replacing the brake hardware will eliminate it. Parts fixed/replaced: New calipers on both si

More mods! Found the part number for the OEM black Charger emblem, so I did a swap. Yes yes, I could have plastidipped it, but this was just as cheap, and won't peel over time.

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You guys gotta go with air horns to get the real true locomotive horn sound where it fades out and you can hear it from miles away.  Obviously not having an air supply on a car makes that difficult but that's the way to go.  I love it when once in a while you get the hopped up Peterbilt on a construction site and the guy has a set of train horns, and they usually aren't afraid to use them. 

 

They got me once this summer, I was walking along the curb while paving and right as I was walking past the dump truck the driver just let me have it, 6 horns set behind his fuel tank between the cab and box, the amount of air that they displaced was amazing.

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You guys gotta go with air horns to get the real true locomotive horn sound where it fades out and you can hear it from miles away. Obviously not having an air supply on a car makes that difficult but that's the way to go. I love it when once in a while you get the hopped up Peterbilt on a construction site and the guy has a set of train horns, and they usually aren't afraid to use them.

They got me once this summer, I was walking along the curb while paving and right as I was walking past the dump truck the driver just let me have it, 6 horns set behind his fuel tank between the cab and box, the amount of air that they displaced was amazing.

My dad and my brother both are truck driver who at one point also had actual train horns on their trucks. 160+ dB. And they drain an air tank faster than you can say "Union pacific".

Couple times I went for a ride with my brother. Going through the Caldecott tunnel at 55mph with a belt driven compressor at 3 a.m. Meant the horns were blaring from end to end. Add the resonance of the tunnel, and it was deafening.

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The LTD turns 30 this week (I think it was on the 28th, but I'm not sure). Haven't bought it anything, and I suspect the only thing it wants is a beater truck for me so it can spend winter in the garage.

 

A bit strange knowing that my daily driver is now as old as my "classic" car was when I bought it.

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Did a little work and "upgraded" the blinker mod.

 

Original:

 

Upgraded:

 

I modified the housing a bit to accept a 7443 socket to replace the 194. Decided it would be a bit nicer than the alternating pattern with the lights on, and a bit more noticeable on the sides than before, especially in the day time.

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Well, for work I got a new work truck. It's a 1997 Ford Econoline 250. There are things I like better about the interior than the 07, actually feels a bit more roomier on the inside, but holy hell is she a beast.

 

 

I just cannot take it home. :(

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Zach, it seems like the signals on the GM flash kind of fast... like they don't stay off long enough for the bulb to go out completely...

 

Have you thought about getting an LED-rated flasher unit? It regulates the blinking speed, usually used to fix the rapid-blink that happens when you put LED's in.

 

It might help make the signals even more noticeable. Just something to think about.

 

Also, great job on the mod. I like it. Always hated that about the Gen 3 Taurus, how they "wig-wag". Caused a lot of issues when trying to add LED's or other mods.

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Zach, it seems like the signals on the GM flash kind of fast... like they don't stay off long enough for the bulb to go out completely...

 

Have you thought about getting an LED-rated flasher unit? It regulates the blinking speed, usually used to fix the rapid-blink that happens when you put LED's in.

 

It might help make the signals even more noticeable. Just something to think about.

 

Also, great job on the mod. I like it. Always hated that about the Gen 3 Taurus, how they "wig-wag". Caused a lot of issues when trying to add LED's or other mods.

The signals were run off of two different flashers in that video, which is why there's a discrepancy between the directionals and hazards flashing. Directional signals were handled by a Tung-Sol 325 flasher and the hazards by a Ideal 536 flasher, both pretty old. I have had the LCM flasher bypassed since I got a decent set of LEDs for the rear and the resistors I was using back there weren't enough to stop the fast flash. Now that I have essentially the same load as stock (3 lamps), I can try hooking up the LCM flasher again, which should work more consistently.

 

Also, regarding the LED issue on cars where they wigwag, I got a nice set of LEDs for the markers before the swap, and surprisingly weren't polarized, and worked properly with the lights on or off.

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Also, regarding the LED issue on cars where they wigwag, I got a nice set of LEDs for the markers before the swap, and surprisingly weren't polarized, and worked properly with the lights on or off.

 

Wow. That's surprising!!!

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Both cars covered with ice with sleet over, about inch total once snow is scraped off.

Wife and I needed to go to the doc for scheduled cortizone shots.

Last night I put my hair dryer heater in the Lin for hour and got the windows clear.

This am heater in for 45 mins, car warm inside.

So two 15 mile runs and windows fine. car still iced in.

Couple hours after home and the ice slid off the hood making a mess on the driveway.

Top still solid.

Sable still frozen in.

Ice on the car makes wind noise.

Worse for wagons as it gets in the rack.

Maybe tomorrow I will get the wagon clear again.

 

-chart-

 

 

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We installed a new electric gate opener so I took the older battery from my motorcycle and wired it parallel with the tiny gate battery for extra capacity. Bought a new battery for the motorcycle so I don't have to worry about a dead battery. Rode the bike to work for a couple days since the weather has been nice, and now the thermostat is stuck open and bike is running too cold and rich. Argh!

Back in the truck until the momo is fixed. This morning as I'm leaving work the check engine light comes on, major vacuum leak. Evap hoses are split again. I've replaced them a dozen times. It would be a simple fix if the hoses weren't molded with different diameters on each end. But I gotta find a permanent solution cuz this is ridiculous. And really the only issue I have with this Dakota, otherwise the most reliable vehicle I have owned.

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'12 Jetta Wagon went to the dealer for 110k oil change. During inspection the service manager found the headlight switch does not stay secured in the dash. The lock tabs appear to be fine. Extended warranty runs out at 120k. He said they may end up replacing the dash :rofl: If so, about half the interior will have been replaced due to defects. Rear seat was replaced at 5k. Panoramic roof and headliner replaced at 10k. Now the dash? Silly. Otherwise car has had no mechanical issues. Last dealer oil change in 10k more miles then it's fair game. Time to increase the pressure on the fuel injectors and boost!

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Hooked back up the LCM flasher. Works fine since the correct load is on it again with the new setup.

 

Also finally found a leather wrapped H-Bar steering wheel.

ObSChFn.jpg

 

For the donor car having about 200K+ on it, electrical tape on a few areas on the rim, and being generally grimy (almost black around the horn buttons), I'd say it cleaned up well, save for a few nicks associated with existing for 21 years.

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This is my mom's 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan ES, the ES stands for European Sport, and on earlier versions of this trim featured more black accents, imitating the black trim and lack of chrome on European cars at the time.

Anyways I detailed the van's exterior yesterday and I thought it turned out pretty nice...

post-3362-0-18075600-1424106482_thumb.jp

post-3362-0-07569600-1424106528_thumb.jp

post-3362-0-45562500-1424106584_thumb.jp

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Also finally found a leather wrapped H-Bar steering wheel.

 

For the donor car having about 200K+ on it, electrical tape on a few areas on the rim, and being generally grimy (almost black around the horn buttons), I'd say it cleaned up well, save for a few nicks associated with existing for 21 years.

 

The joys of one-year-only parts...

 

Looks nice.

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...the ES stands for European Sport, and on earlier versions of this trim featured more black accents, imitating the black trim and lack of chrome on European cars at the time.

 

eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeEURO-SPORT!

 

 

Sorry, that's the only thing that could come to mind when you said that. Nice detailing job.

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Got two of 3 leaky tires from the Volvo fixed today. I wasn't aware that Discount Tire did free repairs. But, they won't touch anything that has a previously repaired wheel associated with it so I have to find someplace else to fix the last one..

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Got two of 3 leaky tires from the Volvo fixed today. I wasn't aware that Discount Tire did free repairs. But, they won't touch anything that has a previously repaired wheel associated with it so I have to find someplace else to fix the last one..

This is true. When I bought the Mercedes it had a couple scuffed rims. I found a pair of wheels on Craigslist. My wife picked them up from the seller. I took them to Discount to have the tires swapped. Unbeknownst to me, one rim had been repaired. Discount would not touch it, although the repair appeared strong and professional. Fortunately the seller was really cool and refunded my money. So I bought new aftermarket rims instead.

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Don't tell Kevin.

 

 

I've had that in my favorites for awhile now :P

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The Probe has developed yet another coolant leak. Far too cold to go look for it. It's about as bad as the one on the Cougar is so I'm not really that concerned. Last time I was under the hood I found 3 different coolant leaks. Tightened a couple clamps and got some to stop, obviously I missed one or tightening the clamp didn't help. These cars don't like low coolant, they start to idle funny. Was really a little surprised that this car started last night at -10° the throw out bearing absolutely screams at these low temps. And these Firestone tires are terrible in the cold. Car keeps going though. Broke 193k this week.

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