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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?

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After 7500 miles I performed the first oil change on the Feisty today. Managed to squeeze in all 5 quarts somehow. :blink:

Edited by Angrod
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Removing the throttle body and EGR spacer from an SEFI 302 upper intake is a massive PITA.

jbjAwd.jpg

One stud came cleanly out using two nuts on a stud and un-threading it from the runner portion. One remained generally stuck and the bottom two broke. It took a lot of prying and beating with a mallet to get it to come all the way off. I got the busted studs undone with a pair of vice grips.

Going forwards when I mount up the Panther EGR spacer, I'm using bolts instead of the stud approach. I'm also lightly coating those bolts in anti-seize to put off corrosion for a while. The coolant line that also goes through the spacer also is not being used. Galvanic corrosion is an issue from the start since the original setup is aluminum with steel studs. Mix that in with the common leakage at the coolant passage which either puts coolant down the intake or onto the studs, it makes for a nasty corrosion fest.

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I like how the work glove is basically giving the middle finger to that EGR spacer. :P 

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On 6/22/2018 at 1:13 AM, Kodachrome Wolf said:

eIIIkq.jpg
 

:ugh:

So I've been using the full size spare on the '97, and it decided to do this. One of regular tires got a leak, can't find where it is, plus the tread was low enough it wasn't worth getting it checked out. This particular tire was from an earlier set I had put on, so probably 2012 or 2013. Had no problems over the last week or so until today when I got a really harsh vibration coming home. Glad it didn't decide to let go. Inspecting the circumference, it looks like a belt shifted and the tread separated from the carcass. I was never a fan of how that particular set of tires wore either (Firestone Affinity Touring), and they wore out the center faster than the edges, even when being inflated to factory PSI. I personally prefer running these cars at 40 PSI all around, but I digress. The Kuhmo KR21s that preceded those and the Firestone Precision Tourings that succeeded them wore evenly across the entire tread area versus exaggerated wear down the center.  

Anyway I've been looking at tires since they're all due for replacement anyway. I'll be doing that sooner than later. In the meantime, I'm going to run out to the tire shop early in the morning before work and have a cheapo tire mounted up to make it to next week since I've got to call to order the set I've been looking at. Hopefully next week I'll have four fresh tires on. White wall will be going by the wayside this go around, unfortunately. I've opted to go with the Kuhmo TA11 225/70R15. Good reviews, good specs, meets my criteria, and Discount Tire has them at a reasonable price.

Things you don't think of to grab while at a junkyard i was getting some parts off a 1995 Ford Taurus for my 1993.. Ah after leaving the junkyard it ran though my mind of things i could of used like getting one of the four wheels for a full size spare instead of that small limited use dummy spare.

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Updated driveway picture

bug_atlas.JPG

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Did a little PM work and some computer related modifications to the F150 this weekend.

Started out with a transmission fluid change/pan drop and filter change on the 6R80 since I'm closing in on 60k miles. Overall it was actually pretty straightforward. Ford could have made it way easier by putting a real dipstick on the transmission but whatever I managed to reach up in between the cat and the side of the transmission with an heavy leather glove to check the fluid level without getting burned.

Others who have driven vehicles equipped with the 6R80 could probably confirm how good of a job Ford did on its shift schedule and quality but with the fresh fluid it was really smooth and crisp. The Ecoboost/6R80 combo is so quiet and smooth you couldn't even feel the shifts or engine change speed, the RPMs would drop and you'd just keep moving faster. (I know that sounds like a CVT equipped car but it really just goes to show the refinement that Ford put into a pickup truck.) Manually downshifting with the toggle switch was equally satisfying.

B1RDkjd.jpg

Most of the bolts removed and draining out over the exhaust...the dumbest part of the whole design and job.

 

gXUPrLm.jpg

Inside the 6R80. You can see the dipstick in the far left front corner of the transmission, notice the massive catalytic converter right behind it where the dipstick access point is. The 6R80 is sealed well, when you crack the 19mm cover nut you can hear the transmission suck in air releasing the vacuum.

 

Then I got to work on the some programming work with Forscan, I had previously activated DRL fog lights, so I continued with adjusting the code to allow the fog lights to remain on with the high beams. I then activated the compass feature in the IPC screen, so I have the full compass app in the IPC and a direction readout all the time on the IPC screen as well as the compass readout on the MFT screen.  Several days ago I also installed the Hill Descent Control switch, turns out I didn't have to activate it using Forscan as it was already activated in my truck, just needed the switch. Needless to say that feature works pretty well, it uses ABS to keep the truck from going over a set speed.

 

ienGGsr.jpg

HDC and Traction Control combo switch.

 

s3obcxM.jpg

IPC compass app. A nice touch as the vehicle shown is actually a pickup truck.

 

Edited by Thub
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On 8/12/2018 at 9:52 PM, Thub said:

Did a little PM work and some computer related modifications to the F150 this weekend.

Started out with a transmission fluid change/pan drop and filter change on the 6R80 since I'm closing in on 60k miles. Overall it was actually pretty straightforward. Ford could have made it way easier by putting a real dipstick on the transmission but whatever I managed to reach up in between the cat and the side of the transmission with an heavy leather glove to check the fluid level without getting burned.

Others who have driven vehicles equipped with the 6R80 could probably confirm how good of a job Ford did on its shift schedule and quality but with the fresh fluid it was really smooth and crisp. The Ecoboost/6R80 combo is so quiet and smooth you couldn't even feel the shifts or engine change speed, the RPMs would drop and you'd just keep moving faster. (I know that sounds like a CVT equipped car but it really just goes to show the refinement that Ford put into a pickup truck.) Manually downshifting with the toggle switch was equally satisfying.

 

Most of the bolts removed and draining out over the exhaust...the dumbest part of the whole design and job.

 

 

Inside the 6R80. You can see the dipstick in the far left front corner of the transmission, notice the massive catalytic converter right behind it where the dipstick access point is. The 6R80 is sealed well, when you crack the 19mm cover nut you can hear the transmission suck in air releasing the vacuum.

 

Then I got to work on the some programming work with Forscan, I had previously activated DRL fog lights, so I continued with adjusting the code to allow the fog lights to remain on with the high beams. I then activated the compass feature in the IPC screen, so I have the full compass app in the IPC and a direction readout all the time on the IPC screen as well as the compass readout on the MFT screen.  Several days ago I also installed the Hill Descent Control switch, turns out I didn't have to activate it using Forscan as it was already activated in my truck, just needed the switch. Needless to say that feature works pretty well, it uses ABS to keep the truck from going over a set speed.

 

 

HDC and Traction Control combo switch.

 

 

IPC compass app. A nice touch as the vehicle shown is actually a pickup truck.

 

Ermahgerd, now I want this forscan tool so I can mess around with my Feisty and see if there is any features I can turn on. Like drl's, instant mpg's, etc etc.

Edited by Angrod

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2 hours ago, Angrod said:

Ermahgerd, now I want this forscan tool so I can mess around with my Feisty and see if there is any features I can turn on. Like drl's, instant mpg's, etc etc.

That Forscan is awesome. Brian did it to my mom's Fusion SE. Was able to add the digital speedometer readout, and the detailed tire TPMS details. Before the Fusion only had an idiot light for low tire pressure. My mom (and I) when she bought her 2015 Fusion, we assumed that like most new cars, it had individual readouts fore the tire pressure, like my grandpa's 2012 Impala. Well, now she has both those enabled, and makes the car enjoyable. :)

I have no need for a Forscan utility since all my junk is too old to utilize it :P

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ForScan is definitely a cool and useful tool for working on newer Ford Motor Company vehicles. I enabled/disabled a few features on my 2015 Mustang using it already... like turning off the double horn honk when I exit the car with the smart fob while it’s running, and activating the use of the Drive Mode toggles after swapping the base Sync infotainment system for Sync 3 and the associated Mustang Premium dash bezel. 

Edited by Brian_05_SEL

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Working to unbreak what I broke over a year ago.

Just some mild disassembly:

qykfWP.jpg

 

Got more to do tomorrow.

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Atmospheric compression attained:

0Go8xG.jpg

 

Reasons why it didn't run right:

NZ9i4U.jpg

Managed to suck the valve past the seat, but nothing was amiss on the top end if you popped the valve cover and cranked over the engine. All that was known was that the compression on cylinder 1 was non-existent.

 

The replacement cylinder heads are already on it. Just the supporting stuff remains, but it'll go quicker. Maybe it'll be back together tomorrow. Or Tuesday. Or whenever.

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The Feisty reached a milestone on Thursday.

2wotg9S

It had 31,1xx on the odo back in late February when I drove it off the lot. The miles sure do add up fast.

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On 8/25/2018 at 5:10 PM, Angrod said:

The Feisty reached a milestone on Thursday.

2wotg9S

It had 31,1xx on the odo back in late February when I drove it off the lot. The miles sure do add up fast.

 

I bought the F150 in March of 2017 with 38,000 miles. It currently has almost 58,000 on it. A few cross country trips really rolled them up.

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So the wagon engine project is finished. The reassembly was done last week, but a driveability issue was making it run like crap.

Symptoms were: Idling too high (could unplug IAC, turn on the A/C, and put into Drive and not stall), Rich smell at idle, zero power at WOT, backfiring, misfiring, and bucking. Everything you want after you an engine back together and start it. <_<

Anyway, finally had some time to get out and poke at it. Grabbed my handy paper clip and test light, and ran a KOEO test and got Code 23 for TPS out of range or set too high. Probed the wires to the TPS and got 1.48v. That's way too high. Ford likes it under 1.12v, .84-.99v is preferred, and apparently all the way down to .54v is acceptable. The TPS is slotted for some adjustment, but not that much, but I don't have a faulty TPS. It was checked out good on the old throttle body, so what gives? Well, these do have a throttle plate stop screw that really shouldn't be messed with, and the best Brian and I could come up with was it got knocked out place or fiddled with after it came off his Mustang. I turned out the stop screw while measuring voltage as it steadily dropped and tuned it to the precision point all the Mustang fanboys like at the just-oh-so-perfect point of .997v.

5qPqH5.jpg

I also swapped all the plugs and wires. When putting the wires back on, it was clear many had lost their distinctive "click" you want when installing them. Figured it wouldn't hurt to do the plugs just in case despite being low mileage (and they looked the part). The old Autolites definitely had crud blown onto them during initial firing which would have been problematic if left alone, so new NGKs were installed.

Fired up easy, no vibration, and the engine idled down easy into a buttery smooth low idle. Road test was good. Throttle response is nicer with the larger bore. Has better "power" than even before the incident, and seems to breath easier with slightly less restrictive intake, heads and dual exhaust. It runs almost as smooth as the 4.6 in the '97, which is impressive for an old pushrod engine like this.

A big thanks to Brian for his assistance in supplying this project the necessary repair parts!  :ford:

All that's left is to adjust the TV block slightly (O/D comes on at 50 MPH vs 55 MPH, shifts aren't as firm as I like), re-install the 5.0 plate, and the two front accessory bracket braces.

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I fixed the Mitsubishi Endeavor's bladder problem. 

hASruUd.jpg

Normally, people freak out about seeing a puddle under their car, but I was happy, since this puddle was from the A/C's condensate drain. 

The Endeavor's drain has the same issue of having a cheap gasket between the firewall and A/C Box, and as water dribbles out, it dribbles down, and goes right back into the cabin, and flooding the carpet. Same issue the Taurus and Sable had! But this time, the Mits folks had a fix. 

kegc5G9.jpg

Solution was to make a new condensate drain, and that it leaves the cabin completely. Went to Menards and found a 3/8 to 1/2 Adapter, I cut off the 1/2 part, and had some old 3/8 Tubing, made it flat, then cut a hole on the bottom of the A/C's drain, plugged the old hole up with silicone, and now the new drain works great. Drilled a hole straight down the tunnel, away from the prop shaft, and zip tied it to the frame neatly so it's not a problem no more. 

I gotta say, one pro to drive by wire, pulled the accelerator pedal out and was able to work comfortably. Thankfully, since the A/C didn't work for about 2 to 3 years, forgot how long I've owned this beauty, but assuming it was a problem with the previous owner too as there was a bit of rust, but nothing terrible. I treated it with naval jelly, then sprayed it with undercoating, including the hole I drilled to ensure that doesn't rust up. 

So now fully functional A/C, and the drain should be fixed to not flood my car no more. This may work on the Taurus if someone wants to repeat it. Might look into it on the Roadmaster as it also has condensate issues. Why didn't all cars just do this method... 

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Spent the weekend on my back in the driveway fabricating a fuel return line for my 1986 Lincoln Towncar.

Rusted out and dripping.

Oh yeah - full frame car with fuel rail installed on and IN frame rails BEFORE body is set on frame. 22 feet long and dozens of bends.

Used stainless steel 5/16 lines from a SHO and carefully heated and rebent them. Yep, 3 piece design to replace line without removing body from frame.

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Oh wow, IN the rails. That sounds like fun. Glad you got it handled! :)

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4.6 Panther upper O2 sensors are supposed to be a real PITA, but I got the job done in roughly 45 minutes. I figure I'm cheating because I'm not in the rust belt.

cJxjla.jpg

Yanked the original sensors out at 205K. I'm sure they've gone lazy, but they've not set the CEL. New sensors are NTK brand. While they don't look exactly like the Ford part, the Ford sensors were branded with the NTK logo on top of the normal part number.

A crows foot type O2 sensor socket made the job super simple. The passenger side is the "worst", as it aims directly at the frame rail, so there's less working room.

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