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What Have You Done To Your Other Vehicle Lately?

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eIIIkq.jpg
 

:ugh:

So I've been using the full size spare on the '97, and it decided to do this. One of regular tires got a leak, can't find where it is, plus the tread was low enough it wasn't worth getting it checked out. This particular tire was from an earlier set I had put on, so probably 2012 or 2013. Had no problems over the last week or so until today when I got a really harsh vibration coming home. Glad it didn't decide to let go. Inspecting the circumference, it looks like a belt shifted and the tread separated from the carcass. I was never a fan of how that particular set of tires wore either (Firestone Affinity Touring), and they wore out the center faster than the edges, even when being inflated to factory PSI. I personally prefer running these cars at 40 PSI all around, but I digress. The Kuhmo KR21s that preceded those and the Firestone Precision Tourings that succeeded them wore evenly across the entire tread area versus exaggerated wear down the center.  

Anyway I've been looking at tires since they're all due for replacement anyway. I'll be doing that sooner than later. In the meantime, I'm going to run out to the tire shop early in the morning before work and have a cheapo tire mounted up to make it to next week since I've got to call to order the set I've been looking at. Hopefully next week I'll have four fresh tires on. White wall will be going by the wayside this go around, unfortunately. I've opted to go with the Kuhmo TA11 225/70R15. Good reviews, good specs, meets my criteria, and Discount Tire has them at a reasonable price.

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I am hoping this is the permanent fix to this A/C in the Mitsubishi

YJjLF0v.jpg

I didn't document it, but it was leaking between the line and the compressor. Compressors are expensive, and mine worked, and lines are also expensive. Upon close examination, I noticed corrosion around the surface where the O-Ring meets the line. So I think I had a similar effect as corrosion on a tire rim. I used Naval Jelly and gently worked it on the surfaces, it really cleaned up the surfaces well, then I did the same on the compressor. Then I replaced the O-Rings again, and then pulled a vacuum on the system. It held the vacuum well, even after a day it was exactly where I left it, before I used to think my cheap Harbor Freight gauges were trash, but nope, was a legitimate leak. So I filled it, and seems to be cooling nice and cold now. Mitsubishi does have a pretty amazing A/C system when it works, makes sense as they also make HVAC systems as well. Better than the Pontiac's A/C, which I'll have to look at and see if it's just low on charge. The next big thing is to fix the EVAP leak as emissions is due August... 

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Replaced the worn tires today. Got some Kumho Solus TA11 225/70R15 tires. Plenty of grip and they do not feel like they have as much sidewall flexing like the Firestones did. I went with these because they had very good reviews on TireRack so I figured they were worth a shot. The white wall may be gone, but the extra benefits of a wider tire with better compound is worth the trade off. 

Plenty of tread:
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Back on the base model look:
Hd4WEH.jpg

I also got the shop to take the one good Firestone (about 60% tread) and have it mounted for the wagon’s spare. The wagon had a 23 year old Michelin that looked okay, but would not be trusted outside of maybe just letting the car sit on it. 

All in all I now have a nice new set of matching tires, a new spare for the ‘97, and a good spare for the ‘87.

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should have done something with those cobra wheels and some ventus V12 evo2s....

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2 hours ago, ShelbyRacer78 said:

should have done something with those cobra wheels and some ventus V12 evo2s....

Should have, but I needed good tires cheap like a week ago. Otherwise, those would have been on the menu. 

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Some of you may not like this addition, but I decided to add the retro charger badging to my Charger.  It's placed roughly the same area it would've been on the early 70s cars.  I'm not 100% sure that I'm keeping it, but I do think it looks alright on there.  What do y'all think? Don't mind my dirty car.  I did clean the area where these were applied.

IMG_20180701_191354497_HDR.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Jeff said:

Some of you may not like this addition, but I decided to add the retro charger badging to my Charger.  It's placed roughly the same area it would've been on the early 70s cars.  I'm not 100% sure that I'm keeping it, but I do think it looks alright on there.  What do y'all think? Don't mind my dirty car.  I did clean the area where these were applied.

IMG_20180701_191354497_HDR.jpg

I like it. Gives it some added class imo.

 

Now about my Fiesty.....

Just like my last Taurus the Fiesta a/c doesn't get cold. It gets cool but cannot bring the temperature down more than a couple degrees as long as the car is in the sun. Just like the Taurus I have to put it in the shade for 10 minutes so that the interior cools off. As soon as I go back into the sun it starts to warm up again. Anyone else can leave their car baking in the sun all day, we can go for a ride and within a couple minutes the air from the vents is ice cold and the interior cools down nicely. Can my cars do that? NoooooOOOOOOooooooo.....

Of course, the a/c system charge is not covered under my CPO warranty, only the physical a/c parts. And you know Ford would want $$$ just to pull my car into their garage. So I grabbed one of those stupid recharge kits from Wally World and put some in the system. Now I just have to wait until tomorrow to see if it helps at all...... And we're in the middle of a serious heatwave too.

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When you have your A/C on, does it help if you give it a little gas when in the sun? Some cars I notice have crappy A/C's until they move more air. I am tempted to try something on my Pontiac since its A/C is a bit weak in the heat, whereas my Mitsubishi, it doesn't seem to discriminate, it gets cold no matter what, but it seems to have a good radiator fan that moves a lot of air. 

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My friend had an 06 Fusion with AC that acted up.  Sometimes it worked good sometimes not.  Turned out she had a bad evaporator core temp sensor.  It finally played out and the AC stopped working all together.  It was reading -41 degree temperatures even in 100 degree heat.  I took her dash mostly out and replaced it.  It has been great ever since.  During that process I couldn't believe how dumb a design it was.  They could have made this thing accessible through the glovebox, but no!!

 

Jeff

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47 minutes ago, TaurusKev said:

When you have your A/C on, does it help if you give it a little gas when in the sun? Some cars I notice have crappy A/C's until they move more air. I am tempted to try something on my Pontiac since its A/C is a bit weak in the heat, whereas my Mitsubishi, it doesn't seem to discriminate, it gets cold no matter what, but it seems to have a good radiator fan that moves a lot of air. 

Doesn't matter if I'm in stop and go traffic or doing 75 on the highway. The air never gets beyond a mediocre cool. If I run the engine at higher rpm's for a minute or two it gets colder but still not as cold as it should imo.

The Taurus at least would get cold after driving on the highway for a few minutes. The Fiesta just doesn't seem to want to cool.

Edited by Angrod

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54 minutes ago, TaurusKev said:

When you have your A/C on, does it help if you give it a little gas when in the sun? Some cars I notice have crappy A/C's until they move more air. I am tempted to try something on my Pontiac since its A/C is a bit weak in the heat, whereas my Mitsubishi, it doesn't seem to discriminate, it gets cold no matter what, but it seems to have a good radiator fan that moves a lot of air. 

The F150s A/C is kinda fussy like that. Its kinda lame and struggles to produce cold air when its just sitting still or driving slow but when your at cruising speed on the highway the A/C blows ice cold. Its almost obnoxious how loud the high speed cooling fan is on the F150 too, I don't understand how a fan that big roaring that fast can't move enough air over that huge opening but I guess it doesn't quite cut it.

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Replaced the door speakers in the '87. Now all six speakers work and sound quality is much better. Also made up a weather barrier for the driver's door on it since the original was long gone (original stuff looks like a brown paper back with a thin rubberized coating on the back). Used some heavy plastic sheet and just cut it to cover where it should and taped it in place.

Then I moved on to opening up the engine bay a little bit by using the 1990 Town Car specific air intake, fan shroud, and washer bottle.

Before (not the best angle, old pic):
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After:
ODRrNG.jpg

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Cleaned up the angry spaghetti to make it a little less angry. Not sure if the relays will remain there, but my relocation options are limited since the washer tank now lives where they use to.

In the OE configuration, the coolant overflow tank and washer tank are a combo unit mounted where the air cleaner lives now. That leaves a space where the relays are normally mounted. Obviously this change moves stuff around.

The '90-'91 LTD CVs and GMQs get a more modern relay/vacuum configuration that is seen in the '92-'02 Panthers. While it's possible to swap in that newer style vacuum box and relay holder vs the coffee can and tower o' relays, I'm not sure if I want to do that right now.

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On 7/1/2018 at 10:12 PM, Thub said:

The F150s A/C is kinda fussy like that. Its kinda lame and struggles to produce cold air when its just sitting still or driving slow but when your at cruising speed on the highway the A/C blows ice cold. Its almost obnoxious how loud the high speed cooling fan is on the F150 too, I don't understand how a fan that big roaring that fast can't move enough air over that huge opening but I guess it doesn't quite cut it.

The fans on my Fusion are crazy loud too at idle but A/C works great.

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I can never leave well enough alone with any of my cars.  So, as such, I ordered rear Bilstein B6 shocks for my Charger and next week I'll order the set for the front.  The rear already arrived and I'll be installing those in the morning.  These are supposed to be a handling upgrade over stock, but for use with OEM springs.  We shall see if my boat feels any different.  Also, had the car in for its first official service at just over 3200 miles.  I actually changed the factory fill about 3 weeks after I bought it.  I let Glen Sain Ford service it using my supplied oil and filter(Valvoline Synpower 5w20 and Wix filter).  Cost me $12 to let them do it and as a bonus it goes on the Carfax.  That's really why I let them do it was for the Carfax record.  Local Dodge dealer charges $49 for a semi synthetic oil change(not too sure what barrel they get their oil from).  This one cost me $52 bucks all in with a good name brand synthetic oil so I'm not too upset.  Also, I let a Ford garage do it because I have a really good relationship with them and they have top notch customer service.  I dropped my car off on my way to work and when it was done they asked me if I wanted it delivered to my home or work.  I declined and picked it up, but that says something about their commitment to customers.  I may just keep paying them the $12.  Saves my back and rolling around on the ground.

Jeff

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22 hours ago, mmmfloorpie said:

The fans on my Fusion are crazy loud too at idle but A/C works great.

Probably double that noise because I doubt the Fusion has 2 - 15 or 16 inch fans.

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Well the a/c in the Fiesty is a bit colder now that I've added maybe half the can of refrigerant. It actually cools down in the sun, it just takes a while. I might add some more at some point but now that the heat has passed I no longer have a pressing need.

Also, the rad fan is very, VERY loud when on high. I can hear it inside over the noise of the blower running at max!

Edited by Angrod

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I got a project car! For my brother in law though, he bought this off his brother in law for dirt cheap, needs work, and I told him I could do it. 

1998 Honda Accord, 3.0L V6, pretty damn rough, but has plenty of potential!

698WQoL.jpg

Got into a small accident awhile back, thus they decided to just get rid of it. It's all purely cosmetic, so I might either try to straighten it out, or just find an Accord from a junkyard and fix it up. 

UduoczS.jpg

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Owner had it for over 10 years before he sold it to my brother in law who needs a cheap car for commuting to and from school. 

Things this piece of shit needs:

Timing Belt

Clunking noise from CV Halfshaft when turning, so one of them sounds bad

Full tuneup

One of the valve covers appears to be leaking oil

Maintenance Required light is on, I think for Hondas that just means it needed an oil change? This will be the first Honda I truly get my hands dirty on. 

Seems only 1 or 2 light bulbs remain in the instrument cluster at night, and can barely read the speedometer

And possibly more, but the above should make it reliable. 

When I got it, the HVAC controls had no knobs, so yesterday, was at the yard and grabbed them. I am trying to minimize the amounts of times I start this car since I have no idea how old the timing belt is, but I decided to see if AC worked since it had an accident. HVAC panel was dead, only the blower worked. 

Apparently a common failure on Hondas, even had a coworker at Comcast who had a 2006 Civic, and his A/C button did nothing, betting similar problem. 

First fix on the HVAC Controller was to run a new wire: 

T8hr76H.jpg

That brought it to life, but it was now flaky, and lights would flash, so I looked the board over for a good while, flexed it, noticed it worked, so I began touching up main solder points, eventually found the solder between some of the resistors on the front of the board were bad, after I resoldered those: 

hUEcX9v.jpg

The offending issue was a zener diode on the front, next to that open hole where the light bulb would go (R5 Resistor and the ZD1) After touching those up, the panel was reliable, I smacked it around a bit, still worked no issue. 

0RqEQ7d.jpg

All cleaned up and ready to reinstall now. 

Funny how complicated a manual HVAC system is... Why manufacturers made these so complicated is beyond me. This thing has two rear plugs: the panel, then the blower motor. Makes me appreciate the Taurus's manual HVAC, very simple, 3 separate knobs for 3 separate controls, nothing fancy with them. I found a few spare of those stupid light bulbs lying around, so I was able to fix the illumination with that, but now I need to find a light bulb for the blower speed control, looks like the same one the Gen1/2 Taurus used for small illumination. 

 

This is also why I decided to fix it, this asshole wants too much for a nasty ass worn out panel: https://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-01-02-Honda-Accord-HVAC-Climate-Control-AC-Heater-Panel-OEM/283037462212 seems faded too. 

Then for a "cleaner" one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/98-99-00-01-02-Honda-Accord-Manual-Climate-Control-AC-Heater-HVAC-OEM-AA/292639907181 Yeah, just saved $65-70 by just fixing this one, and now it hopefully will be more reliable than the others that seem to fail too. 

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I believe the ‘Maintenance Required’ light is the MIL, but it’s been a while since we’ve had our Odyssey, so I’m not 100% sure. 

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Nope, there is a separate Check Engine light, and it was burnt out. I ordered a few bulbs to replace the smaller burnt out bulbs, but this is what it looks like now: 

DAo3vpo.jpg

I find it cool that Honda put some lights above for a nice glow above: 

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(This was bench tested, not installed in car)

But the weirdest part, these look like Ford Part Numbers: 

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Doing a quick search for a Ford cluster, I was right: 

BfxcvLX.jpg

Same style and everything :lol: 

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