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Rusty

Still Having Misfire Issues

35 posts in this topic

Alright, Marylin has been off the road for a week and a half now, as I am having no luck with this damn misfire. The codes were misfire cyl 2, and misfire first 1000 rpms. I have since cleared the codes a couple of times, and the only one that returns is the cyl 2 misfire. Plug ain't the problem, wire ain't the problem, I have a hard time believeing it would be the coil pack as it isn't even 6 months old yet. Do we have injector problems on these motors? I haven't found much about the injectors going bad regularly, but maybe I just missed it. I need to get this car back on the road. I miss my MACH! Any ideas?

Edited by Rusty

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OEM coil pack or aftermarket? Pull the plug and check the color of the ceramic, too lean (gray or white), too rich (black and sooty), or just right (tan or light brown). Check the insulator for carbon tracking. Did you use dielectric grease on the plug boots? Too rich or too lean could be caused by a faulty injector, but only after all the above has been ruled out.

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Aftermarket to ''OEM specs''. The plug wasn't toast but it was pretty dark. Put a new one in and still have the issue. Yes, I did use the grease for the boots. I guess I could test another coil pack and see if that is the problem. Was trying to avoid this since it's new...

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I had misfire problems for several months, fixing and replacing everything we could think of. Finally the coil pack was replaced. It was OEM and had 3 cracks in it. Car runs like new now.

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OEM coils seem to last the longest, and that's not saying much. But aftermarkets rarely last very long at all.

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I had misfire problems for several months, fixing and replacing everything we could think of. Finally the coil pack was replaced. It was OEM and had 3 cracks in it. Car runs like new now.

Same here. In Feb this year. Guess I better go research the RockAuto warranty rules and see if I can find my damn reciept. I hope that it is a faulty coil pack and not an injector or..... worse...

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I've had this problem for months as well. Coils, wires, plugs, injectors, intake gaskets, vacuum leaks etc.... turns out a simple little cracked head was to blame. New head=no issues with misfires. BTW under 200 for a new ford head bolt on ready and shipped.

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Cracked heads on the Vulcan are not uncommon, but quite unlikely on the Duratec.

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Well I sure as hell hope it ain't a cracked head, I am not skilled enough to do that one on my own. I'll get back to the coil and keep on tracing from there. Gettin the s**ts of it

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If I weren't having to replace a valve body(only I hope) this weekend I'd come up and play with it with you.

Swap the coil and see if it moves.

On an unrelated note: If you forget to hook up the front bank on a 3.4 it still sounds like a V8.

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Can't swap coils. That would be too easy. Mine has just one coil pack. So it's gonna hafta wait untill I get a chance to go the the j/y again to get another test unit and see what happens. That'll be next weekend...

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Not even paying attention. Guess I should get more the 2 hours of sleep(nap?) before posting.

There are only a few things it could really be. Plug-I've had cracked porcelain do that and it drove me nuts as it looked fine until the third time I tried to take it out and it was stuck in the boot, boot, wire, coil, running rich, running lean, and ECU.

Pull a plug beside it and see if that plug is sooty. If it is a hit and miss that isn't fuel related that plug will be sooty as it has extra fuel in that once cylinder. If the plug beside it is fine then you don't have a fuel related issue. Then you can check out the boot and wires for obvious flaws and then I'd go with the coil swap.

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OK I didn't check the plugs next to it. Checked one of the front plugs, and it looked alright. Guess I'll dig in tonight and see what I see with plugs 1 and 3. This is gettin on my nerves. Can't wait till it's paid off.

Edited by Rusty

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The only reason I say beside it is because bank 1 can be different then bank 2. I don't think it's the problem though. I think it's most likely the coil, but I always go free>cheap>not so cheap. Could be as simple as spark plug gap.

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Nah put a new plug in a dble checked the gap on the new one, too. No change in the way it was running. And the misfire code never moved, either. So used coil test pack is next. Just sucks I can't get to it till next weekend :(

Hell, the car don't even start, now. Dead battery.

Edited by Rusty

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Too hot to get into anything right now anyway. Better off.

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Yeah, no kidding. Plus with the s**t they are calling for later this evening...

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Tomorrow is the day. Fingers crossed, people. This recurring misfire issue is really getting annoying.

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OK got a coil pack from a newly arrived 01 Vulcan yesterday, Motorcraft part. Also got the bolts so I can swap out those stupid hex head screws, and make future removal easier. Will be out in a bit, assuming the rain holds off. Wish me luck, people.

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this thread read like a Stephen King manuscript that someone ripped the last pages out of!!!! GIRRRRRRRRR!!!!!! I have this same damn problem and all I wanted to do is see at least ONE complete happy ending. nope. I am feeling blue balled right now. blue bulled? ...

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The used Motorcraft part is still running strong, problem gone. So long story short, if you need a coil pack, get Motorcraft.

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Excellent! I try to tell people these cars hate aftermarket coils/coil packs but nobody ever listens :rolleyes:

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Excellent! I try to tell people these cars hate aftermarket coils/coil packs but nobody ever listens :rolleyes:

WELL...

Marilyn is living proof :rofl:

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Thanks for the response Rusty. I am hugely in favor of using OEM where possible too.

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Almost all Fords don't like aftermarket ignition parts. Granted my SHO has all aftermarket coils as there isn't really a choice.

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