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The Official Dang Near Anything Thread


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Starting a new business with an old friend. He currently owns and operates a small auto repair shop in south Austin. His current location is too small to meet demand so he has been wanting to expand.

Finally looking at a job "upgrade", at least for me. Got a conditional job offer from O'Reilly Auto Parts making considerably more than what I do now at Zaxby's with the added potential of being able

Its a rental car, remember it gets the piss beat out of it... Don't be gentle its a rental.

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Having a Jeep doesn't guarantee you a few things :lol:

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If I had one I definitely wouldn't treat it like that. Although, I have sorta done that in my 09 back in March, but basically I just hit a very slushy road at about 35-40 because when I tried slowly I just kept getting stuck. Speed worked....though probably stupid....as I could've gone anywhere going that fast on ice/slush

Jeff

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Err... wow. Stupidity trumps logic there.

 

Despite the general lack of snow down here, I did have the chance to drive in it back in February. The only area I actually found myself unable to go was a incredibly steep hill in a friend's neighborhood (much steeper than the one in the video). Backed it off that hill gently and resumed putting around in second gear. Something should just say flooring it on a slick surface won't help much. I had my fun doing that on my driveway just for fun since there wasn't much to do then, either.

 

Decent tires help, too. If I lived in a snowy area, that would be one of my first investments for the car.

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Idiot clearly has no working knowledge of how to drive in snow or how to operate his jeeps fancy 4x4 system. There are so many things he did wrong this could be used to teach people how not to attempt to rock a vehicle in snow.

 

Clearly backing up and just driving off would have been the easy way to get out but...

 

He's got the wheels turned all over the place while trying to get out...that never works, just keep them straight until you can pop out.

He's doesn't have the car in the proper driving mode for the conditions.  It may be he only has the single speed T case but it still should of got out easy. If he had the Q-Trac 2 he could have dropped it in low and it would have pulled right out.  Of course in low range and slamming on the gas like that he probably would have destroyed his transmission.

 

I've driven the Explorer though thick heavy snow just like that, probably even deeper.  My apartment driveway last year was a nightmare with all the snow we got.  Very steep and not uncommon to get +18 inches of wet heavy snow that plows pushed off the road.  In most cases people would just park at the gas station next door until we were plowed out, but not once that I attempted to get into the parking lot was the Explorer unable to climb up into the parking lot. There were several times that I did pass and park next door, mainly out of fear that I might slide off the steep driveway and into the ditch while powering though the snow.  The nice part about an SUV is that the back end has much more weight on it than a pickup truck.  I loved it when several of my neighbors watched in as I was able to get up the driveway but their 4x4 pickups couldn't.  Of course non of them had any extra weight in sand bags, etc in the bed to keep the rear axle planted.

 

I think the biggest problem I witness at school with winter driving is tire choice.  Guys who run big lifted trucks and jeeps for serious off roading sometimes fail to understand that their big fat mud tires are the absolute worst tires to have in snow.  Those guys would have a harder time driving in snow that a compact car with all season tires.

 

Sometimes getting unstuck can be so simple too, getting extra traction to one or two of the tires though the use of a crummy floor mat can make a huge difference.  I can't even remember how many people I have helped by tossing 2 floor mats under their tires and 10 seconds later they are on their way. It is the perfect solution for vehicles that are just on the verge of breaking free but too hard to push free.

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Sup Rusty, not much, I now roll in a Duratec Sable :lol:

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He lives! Things have been good. Still in the same old Taurus, just bought a house a couple months back. How about you?

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Eh. No house yet, but shopping. Still in the same job, same Taurus, same Cobalt LOL. Nothing much has changed.

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Nice, for me I got the house, I don't know if you were around when I got it, I added a TON of cars to my fleet (See my cars in my name)

 

I am getting married myself, and just the same old. Also, since I know you were an Olds man, you might appreciate this :P

 

20141223_160438.jpg

 

:D

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There is a special feeeeeel, In an Oldsmobile! :lol:

 

 

Btw: Don't disappear again, it's forbidden :ph34r:

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Need somebodys to read this and proof it. It is in my file of maint things in a word doc.

 

Just updated it. I can't see the forrest for the trees sometimes. Help appreciated. :read:

Battery cable/wiring check

This should take about 5 minutes.

Tools. Digital VM, range 200MV to 2.0V.

Hood open.

  1. Key on (not start) Blower on high, lights high beam.
  2. Probe leads, Pos battery post to mega fuse (or older cars use post on fuse box) Not the cable ends, but, post to post to bridge the cable.
  3. Volts range ~100 mv or less. ( 0.10V or less)
  4. Neg bat post to engine metal 80 mv or less but not under 20 mv.
  5. Neg bat post to body metal 100 mv or less.

On the pos side, high reading = bad cable, or ends not good connection.

On the body ground high reading = bad cable or ends not good connection.

On the engine ground, low reading = body to engine ground strap not good.

On the negative side, the ground is split with one to the body, one to the engine block and then the ground strap from the block to the body near the passenger side firewall. Thus the body is double grounded. You need both. Engine strap to firewall is important as this it the ground to the PCM. If you get a low reading engine block to ground, then the firewall strap is likely not working. Your power is all through the fender to the cabin. Larger part should be through the engine block to the firewall.

 

 

-chart-

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Like the testing info on batt cables. Volt drop is the only (cheaply) accurate way to measure resistance less than one ohm. Not quite in agreement re: neg to engine, though. Each section of the cable needs to be checked independently for the volt drop. For the big cables, however, I would apply more of a load by having a helper crank the engine while testing. Obviously,be mindful of hot or moving parts. In this test, I like volt drop to be less than 200mV. 

 

Had a Land Rover, slow crank condition. Battery was grounded to the frame, Separate large strap frame to engine. Drop from battery to engine block was 3.2 volts. Fault in this case was frame to engine strap.

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Like the testing info on batt cables. Volt drop is the only (cheaply) accurate way to measure resistance less than one ohm. Not quite in agreement re: neg to engine, though. Each section of the cable needs to be checked independently for the volt drop. For the big cables, however, I would apply more of a load by having a helper crank the engine while testing. Obviously,be mindful of hot or moving parts. In this test, I like volt drop to be less than 200mV. 

 

Had a Land Rover, slow crank condition. Battery was grounded to the frame, Separate large strap frame to engine. Drop from battery to engine block was 3.2 volts. Fault in this case was frame to engine strap.

Good ground goes directly to the starter bolt. If it cranks briskly, no need to check.

I had some warrenty work done on '93 Lin Cont and after it cranked really slow. I called their hand and they looked and the ground cable to the engine was just hainging down under the car. It was feeding through the cable to the fender, and the strap from the body to the engine. Of course the Lin had big cables and the Essex cranked rather easily. I doubt the G-4 Bull would crank at all without a ground cable to the starter.

 

-chart-

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Ahhh, what a good junkyard run. Grabbed the horns from the 85 Olds, just a dual note, but they sound big and modest.

 

Grabbed all the locking pins from the Olds, they look like golf tees. And 2 starter relays from a Toyota Camry, and a Toyota Solara. My in-law's Vibe decided to intermittent start. Replaced battery and starter. Same thing, noticed when they turned the key, not a single click. Eventually it starts after fiddling with the key. The Ponyota uses a starter relay, and thanks to Rock Auto, I was told I can find a starter relay from pretty much every 90's/00's Toyota, Lexus, Pontiac Vibe, and Chevy/Geo Prism. :D

 

Also, it's about 17°F out today, but it was around 5/8, I went over to the beloved Olds, she started right up in this cold ass weather, and even shifted into gear :(

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Speaking of horns, who was the one on here who put the four note Caddy horns on their bull?

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Brian did that.

 

I used to have the quad note Buick Roadmaster horn setup on my Contour. But it was too much work. Dual note should be fine, and I won't need a relay. :)

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My horn died, and I've been toying with the idea to replace with 4note Caddy. Just wondering how much work it will be.

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You can generally find the same horns in Buicks. Roadmaster and I have even seen some in Park Avenue ultras 

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