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TaurusKev

My Write Up For Eatc With 2000-2007

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For those interested, I decided I would port over my writeup on EATC to this forum. I put a lot of hard work, research, and effort into this mod, and I hope those interested in doing the same, are able to with my writeup. So first off, here are things to consider:

Note: All information provided in this thread may be reposted only if providing a source link to this page, and giving credit to me, the Author, and may only be used for non-profit, not for commercial gain.

So first off, here are things to consider:

There are two generations of EATC for the fourth generation Taurus. The installation I will be doing is from a 2000-2003. The 2004-2007 is similar, but untested. In theory that should work. Differences were stated that on a 2000-2003, you have Outside Temperature and Max A/C. The 2004-2007 replaced this with Recirculate air, and just normal A/C. Outside temperature on an 04-07 was done solely by the instrument cluster, and they do not talk to each other.

DISCLAIMER!!!!! You will be messing with electrical circuits, which if shorted CAN cause shorts, and could ruin components, or cause fire if fuse doesn’t blow, therefore unplug the negative battery cable. You also will have to remove your passenger airbag, airbags can detonate with enough force to dismember stuff. Unplug your battery for at least 30 minutes to fully discharge the car for safety. Ford recommends 1 minute, I recommend 30 just to be safe. Use extreme care when removing the airbag and handing the airbag.

This writeup assumes you have at least an Intermediate to expert skill in wiring, that you know how to splice, solder (if preferred), using electrical tape, electrical safety, and how to depin wires from Ford Wiring harnesses. There are other write-ups that explain how to depin somewhere, and it’s not hard. Wiring I can’t teach you. If you do not feel comfortable wiring, or confident, then I would not recommend this to you. This writeup also assumes you harvest the necessary parts from a junkyard. I strongly advice taking all the bolts from the junkyard to bolt it into your Taurus/Sable.

So for this mod, you will need to obtain the following:

Remote Climate Control module (RCC)

Temperature Blend door actuator, this is black, the manual one is white. They are not interchangable.

Blower Motor Speed Control

Wiring

ICP from the generation you intend to install on. I made a hybrid. You DO NOT NEED TO THIS! If you have a 2004-2007, you can probably suffice by doing the airbag light mod. But you lose the Passenger Airbag Light Off Display

Sunload Sensor (Best to do the Autolamps mod too if you are going to do this :) )

The vacuum tubes to control the vents that goto the RCC

The Vacuum tube and plug that goes to the In-vehicle temperature sensor to the blower motor box below passenger airbag

OAT Sensor behind grill.

The wires prior to install:

P3020972.jpg

I harvested all the wires, but really, I could have just cut about a few feet and yanked it out.

There are a lot of wires here, but some are not used, because it goes from RCC to Temperature blend door, or blower motor speed control. On my setup, there was two wires at the end of the harness that went to a sensor for the A/C, I did not use that, because the Gen4.5 already had that wired, and that went to the PCM.

I added some labels to the picture with Photobucket, I’ll describe each part here, take note for I will refer to this image numerous times throughout the article:

A is the harness that has all the wires you need to add with 16 wires. You will be adding most of those. A few I did not use because they aren’t important.

B is easy, because you don’t need to add anything here. It’s ready to go. Attached to B: D E and F. D goes to the RCC, the heart of EATC. E goes to the Temperature Blend door. F is not used for me, for it is for the EVAP Discharge air temp sensor. Which plugs directly into the PCM. I left the existing wire, so I did not have to rewire something. So that subtracts 2 wires from the 16 total wires you need to add in A.

In A: There is C. Which goes to the blower motor, this is attached to the A side. On C, there is a big Pink/White wire, you won’t need it, for the existing setup with Manual HVAC has it. It’s the power to power blower motor, which should already exist, and you will depin it from there, and put it in where it was from the donor car.

There are two other wires I did not add, and that is the two wires that goto the OBD for the ability to use a computer to pull diagnostic codes. So now you are down from 14 to 12. If you harvest the harness as a whole, it should also include the wires that goto the In-vehicle temp sensor, so that’s only 10 wires you need to connect.

P3020975.jpg

Ground that I separated with the ring, attached behind ICP on right side

P3020976.jpg

How I started this project was to run 2 wires from the passenger compartment to the engine bay. On my Taurus, behind the Cruise control module is a grommet I used to add wires. The only two you have to run to engine bay for OAT.

I used my own wiring, used two colors so I did not confuse myself. Just remember where you plug them into with the OAT sensor behind the grill.

IMG_3344.jpg

IMG_3343.jpg

I used a coat hanger to fish wires from one side to the other above the radiator fan support.

IMG_3330.jpg

Leave wires on the floor for now, not time to wire stuff in. You got one other project to do. That is to add a tube from the blower motor box so it can get a vacuum (confirmed, this is a vacuum tube that measures in vehicle temperature, as it forces air to gently suck into the sensor)

First you have to remove your passenger airbag. Remove the glove box, by removing 3 bolts on the underside, remove the trim plastic under the glovebox that expose your blower motor (For later) and the airbag unbolts by 2 big heavily tightened bolts. Once they are removed, gently rock the airbag out, then unplug the harness going to the airbag, and place airbag in a safe place facing up.

If you did the removal of parts from a junkyard, this is the tube you need to add:

IMG_2605.jpg

On the Non-EATC cars, that is just solid plastic with writing on it. I used a dremel, and just cut by eye the hole until it fit correctly. Then used a screw with a sharp point to screw it into place.

On my dremel, I used a thin drill bit, I did this without removing my dash, just requires some skill, start the hole, then you should be able to get an average dremel into the space the airbag would be in, then do the cutting.

Completed looks like this:

IMG_3359.jpg

Note: The White vacuum hose goes on the piece facing up, the piece sticking straight out is just a relief, otherwise the In-vehicle temp sensor would be sucking a ton of air. It sucks enough to get a sample reading.

Next step!

Run the new vacuum lines! Biggest pain in the ass if you ask me, because two modules are behind the dash in the center. This is good to have skinny hands.

There are 5 Vacuum lines: Yellow: Defrost door, Blue: Panel/Floor door, Black: Source Vacuum (Goes into engine bay, accessed in the airbag space. White: Air Inlet door (Recirc/max AC), Red: Panel/floor door. Red and blue are hardest ones. If you have adapters, you COULD splice existing vacuum tubes, and get a ********* to connect them. I chose not to, since I didn’t feel like running to AutoZone to see if they had the right size adapters.

Vacuum pics:

Yellow:

IMG_3339.jpg

White: (Behind passenger airbag)

IMG_3338.jpg

Red and Blue: Behind dash, accessible on driver side floor, to the right of the accelerator linkage.

Edited by TaurusKev

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Red is closest to the accelerator, blue is deeper in, and harder to get.

IMG00018-20100420-1708.jpg

IMG00020-20100420-1708.jpg

Black: Disconnect under hood, then pull it out from inside the cab, then thread new one in carefully into engine bay (Unless again, you are just splicing these) Located on passenger side, in airbag area, and next to the passenger strut tower, close to the firewall. (Unconfirmed on Duratec, pretty sure it is the same, since this was pulled from a Duratec Taurus)

This tube is the feed to climate control vents.

IMG00015-20100420-1706.jpg

IMG00017-20100420-1707.jpg

Then route the opposite side to where the RCC bolts in, I didn’t bolt it to RCC yet.

Now to install the modules: The 3 things to install are the Blend door (Remove old, install new), install RCC, and install Blower motor speed control. On the 2005, the holes/mounting points existed.

Blower motor speed control bolts in here:

IMG_3365.jpg

Remove the Old Air temperature blend door (White) and install the new one.

Old one:

IMG_3340.jpg

This is with it gone, you can see the hole where the blend door is turned by the module behind the red wire:

P3200985.jpg

You gotta stick the new module in that hole, you may have to the module sideways so it fits in, then once it is in, you can turn the thing right side up, and bolt in. And it will just bolt in at whatever temperature it was turned off.

Differences between Manual and Automatic:

P3200984.jpg

Then lastly, plug in your RCC.

At this point, plug Connector D from the B Harness (See above for references if forgotten), attach the vacuum lines, then bolt RCC in (Viewed from glovebox, easiest place to reach the Lower bolt, upper bolt is reachable though ICP hole)

IMG_3373.jpg

Now for starting to do the wiring! YAY!! Almost there. I found this part to be the easiest…

On your Part A of the harness, these wires exist:

1. Black/White – Ground – Connect this to the same ground that comes off Harness C (If properly removed from a donor car, should already be connected to it)

2. Pink/Light Blue – OBD (You can choose not to use this, I did not, goes to OBD Port, same colors)

3. Tan – ACP/Data Bus (Splice into this at ICP Pin 14)

4. Red/White – Hot at ALL times, I spliced into this at ICP (Connect at ICP Pin 11 white/red)

5. Pink/Black – This goes to both Pin 1 of In vehicle Temp Sensor, and Pin 1 of OAT (Spliced together)

6. Tan/Orange – OBD (You can choose not to use this, I did not, goes to OBD Port, same colors)

7. Light Blue/Pink – ACP/Data Bus (Splice into this at ICP pin 13)

8. Gray/Red - Not used, EVAP Discharge to PCM, should already be wired now.

9. Brown – Sunload sensor Pin 1 - I have untested to see if this will work without Sunload plugged into the SJB/GEM It MIGHT work using Pin 1 and Pin 5 for Ground, if not, add autolamps :) )

10. Yellow – Blower motor relay control (unpinned from Manual HVAC, same place the Violet one is)

11. Tan/Orange – Not used, EVAP Discharge to PCM, should already be wired now.

12. Violent/Orange – Hot In Run (spliced behind ICP Red/Yellow Pin 16)

13. Red/Orange – Goes to OAT

14. Violet – A/C OnDemand Signal (Unpinned from the Manual HVAC, and spliced together, same color, behind the selector knob for panel, floor, etc)

15. White/Orange – Goes to In-vehicle temp sensor

16. Orange/Black – Should already be attached to the green plug (Harness C from above)

For Both 10 and 14, here is the harness you depin to splice into.

Wires.png

They are the same color (Yellow and purple), and goto the same exact spot. I depin’d mine rather than cut. This way, if I ever want, I can undo the splice, and hook it back to manual HVAC.

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You will need to Depin 1 pin from the blower motor, then depin a pin from Harness C, that is the thick Pink/White wire From the Manual HVAC Setup, undo the harness, and unpin that, it’s the same connector that will fit into the Blower Motor speed control.

IMG_3365.jpg

The Blower motor speed control takes that Pink/White wire, that goes from SJB/GEM to that, then the Blower motor speed control has a separate harness that plugs into the blower motor. This replaces the existing wire.

Once that is all in, and all the wires are connected. I electrical taped the harness together to give it a clean look. Then combined the old plugs behind the ICP, I did not cut them out, just in case I decide I want to switch back to Manual HVAC.

Make sure you run connect the white hose that goes from tube you installed to the In-vehicle temperature (IAT) sensor. I did not get a picture of this, but again, that plugs into the tube with elbow facing up, not to the side. That side will be empty. Then run the white hose to the ICP, and connect to IAT.

Now you should be able to do a test! You can power up the car, if ready with the airbag and everything out to test that everything works, but then unhook the car to reassemble everything. You will have an airbag code, but it will erase when you unplug the car to reassemble everything. Secure and make everything all neat. Assemble, and you should now have EATC!

How I tested mine:

th_MVI_3382.jpg

(Airbag light was on due to no Airbag installed, and disabled the system too by pulling fuse so I could drive like that, I did some pre-work prior to the install)

IMG00012-20100419-2335.jpg

To ensure everything is properly connected, do a diagnostic test/self test, press OFF and the Floor button simultaneously and then press AUTO within two seconds. The display will show dashed lines in the display, then either flash the error code(s), or 888

th_MVI_3383.jpg

Press Defrost to exit.

I hope this guide helps anyone wanting to convert over. It looks complicated, but it really isn’t. Just time consuming (about 5 hours?) But so worth it! Went on vacation a few weeks later, set my car to 73°F, and it was comfortable the whole time, no adjusting the knobs :)

Next part will be about combining a Gen 4.5 ICP with a 4.0 ICP to make a 2000-2003 Taurus/Sable EATC system work flawlessly with a 2004-2007 Taurus/Sable Faceplate with PAD (Passenger Airbag Display)

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Stuff you will need:

1. A Soldering Iron

2. Soldering braid to absorb the old solder

3. Soldering skills (Obviously)

4. Gen 4.0 ICP w/ EATC

5. Gen 4.5 ICP w/ EATC

Now I am very familiar with a soldering iron. This is helpful, this I would not recommend unless you consider yourself an expert.

There are two parts to the ICP. There's the display board with buttons, and the "brains" which is above the tape deck. It's a very simple computer. There are two chips, one chip is the CPU. This takes all the signal it gets from the button (So if I push Auto, the CPU will then do the work, and control all the outputs (Temp and fan). Or if I pushed Outside Temp, it would then communicate to the RCC, which will communicate to the OAT, and then send the signal back to the ICP, etc)

Both display boards are exactly the same, except two things. Gen 4.0 to 4.5 launched a new vacuum fluorescent display board (Since a 4.5 does not have OAT in the ICP, and different recirc feature) And the PAD.

So, I swapped the two, and the results were promising... The display didn't kick out the right info, because they were not designed for the OAT or Recirc. So, I decided, unsolder the two vacuum fluorescent displays... Which I did :)

IMG00058-20100207-2236.jpg

Then installed (And powered, look in the lower right corner, there are 3 small LED's, two on top, one on the bottom centered, that's the PAD indicator)

IMG00061-20100208-0039.jpg

SO IT DID WORK!!!! I officially have the first Gen 4.5 EATC Module designed to work with a Gen4.0 RCC! B):D

But there is a second part. The "Brain" circuit, needed to be accommodated to work with the PAD. Which, there are 2 wires I had to redo. On the Gen4.0, the pins are just grounded, thus would cause the airbag light to work, first step was to separate Pin 3 from ground, then wire Pin 3 to the big connector that connects to the face plate, then wire Pin 5 (which is powering the light) to some resistor, to another pin on the big connector to the face plate.

A Piece of the Gen4.5's ICP Logic board you need to harvest:

DSC01996.jpg

And transfer to the 4.0 Logic Board Note the orientation before harvesting, make sure that if you pull it one way, that it is installed the same way in series of the new line going to the ICP Control board:

The ICP Board that would plug into the wiring harness to the vehicle

IMG00056-20100207-2236.jpg

The Greenish wire is attached to what appears to be Pin 4 (counting from left to right) And the Red/White is on Pin 9. You will have to cut these pins from the Logic Board, bend them up, and attach your wire to it. Or else it will short to ground, and even after installing, short to ground, and cause the Airbag system to throw a code.

IMG00057-20100207-2236.jpg

I had to rip the resistor out of the donor Gen4.5 board. Had to use a multimeter to try and find the sources, took a few hours, but it is worth it so far.

So here are some pics of it being tested in my Taurus.

IMG00068-20100208-0126.jpg

IMG00066-20100208-0125.jpg

Showing 0 degrees, because the RCC isn't present. The unit is still not functional until I wire in my Remote Climate Control module. Got all the wiring, just need a warmer day to shove it in...

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Misc stuff:

Different Temp blend door actuator, blower motor (which the one with EATC includes speed controller), obviously I will need to add the circuit from my sunload sensor into the EATC (easy), then the selector uses the same tubes, just in a different configuration. That should be a bit of a challenge to reconfig that, seeing I can't easily splice vacuum tubing. Probably just yank the donor car's vacuum tubing all together...

RCC Module (Remote Climate Control) is specific to Gen 4 and 4.5, therefore, 2000-2003 Taurus uses one, and 04-07 uses another.

Ford Part number for ECC for 2000-2003:

1F1F-18C612-AB

Ford Part number for ECC for 2004-2007:

4F1Z-18C612-AA

How I harvested from a junkyard: (Again, not needed to go in this much detail, I chose to since nobody has ever done this before)

What we did: Remove the dash of the wrecked Taurus (with a little violence I am afraid to say, it was already wrecked), harvested all the wires, and components, took the main harness, cut what I didn't need (Instrument cluster, lights, etc) and when home, harvested what I needed, a smaller harness. I could have just cut and spliced what I needed, but I felt that wouldn't have been sufficient. Decided to go all out on this.

And now, here are some intimidating pictures:

IMG_2603.jpg

IMG_2604.jpg

IMG_2605.jpg

Where that tube is sticking out is where the tube connects to the In vehicle temp sensor. Imagine: Under the passenger airbag. This sucks in air, very gently. Which is why the tube has an Elbow to it. so it can have some relief. If this is closed, it would make a whistling noise from the suction from the flex pipe. It just needs a very gentle air breeze to sample the air, and adjust the temperature in car to make it comfortable and luxurious :)

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