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Found 5 results

  1. Well, the day has come, your beloved power antenna has stopped working. Although the service has been performed to a Thunderbird Antenna Module, this write up is intended to help diagnose and guide repairing the Taurus. I will be adding to this as I expand on this. The Thunderbird and Taurus antennas are very similar. The only difference is the top where it'd mount to the fender. The bottom half however, is the same, and this is what needs to be addressed. Removing from your car is quite simple. Remove the top nut, either be very careful and use needle nose pliers, or buy the tool from O'Reilly Auto Parts. On Gen 1 and 2 Taurus/Sables (And Thunderbirds...), it'll help to remove the front passenger tire, and the fender liner. From there you can remove the bolts that hold the antenna to the frame. Then it should just pop out. On Gen 3 Sedans, it's all in the trunk. Gen 3 and 4 Wagons, Gotta find the brackets behind the plastic, and remove. Gen 4 Sedans... Well, this is only doable if you add it manually, so hopefully you can figure it out. But it's quite the same as a Gen 3 Gen 5+? Where's your luxurious power antennas?!?! No class from you... Anyway, once removed from your vehicle, on Gen 1/2's, you simply have 1 bolt that holds the case together. Mine was a 7 MM bolt. Be careful to make sure it comes off easily. Might help to spray PB Blaster first. After that, on Gen 1 and 2, you will see this: Note the washer on top of the plastic guide for the antenna mast track. Carefully remove both (Note, it helps to have the antenna erect, otherwise you'll have a ton of track spring out at you! Erect it before you unhook the electrical harness and it is free from the fender or trunk, if it won't erect... Keep going) On Gen 1, 2, and Thunderbirds... To remove the mast, loosen this screw, then pull up on the metal tube that holds the antenna. The antenna slides out from the bottom. Once done, remove the plastic shield. This is what takes the mast track, passes it by the gears, then moves it up into the plastic storage area when it is down. Note on the bottom right, there is a little roller that helps pass the track up past the bend. Do not lose this. I always make note of which cog or anything is. Now I begin my inspection... Uh oh... Mine failed inspection for the Thunderbird... This means there is debris inside... Anytime the antenna does not work right, you will want to thoroughly clean it out. Although my antenna was going up and down when bench tested... One missing tooth could get worse. Well... Let's move on shall we? Now to remove the big piece. This is what that broken cog will turn, and actually, the bottom gear is attached via a spring mechanism, this will stop before the antenna stops. This is to prevent damage to the motor by not directly driving the antenna. Also makes it so the antenna flows smoothly. The top gear is what the antenna mast is driven by. Remove the E clip, this is a pain in the neck, but it's doable. Do not lose this. This thing comes apart too, and it isn't complicated. When you separate it. You'll notice the bottom has a little gasket. Make sure it don't come off. The notch in the top piece, that slips between the two springs. This all comes apart! (Edit about the last two pictures... Ignore the little gear on top for now. If you're following step by step, yours is still installed) Almost there... You are left with this: Gross... Next, to remove everything is to remove the motor. There are two Philips screws on the top of the motor. Undo them. Carefully lift up, there are two pieces to the motor, one being the housing with magnets, and the other being the base of the motor. Lift both out, you'll see the gear lift out. Remove both 1 and 2 together. The piece outlined toward the bottom right, that is a plastic guide. This helps support the mast cable between. It only fits in one way. Remove this metal guide, this fits in two ways, but the other way the gear won't face the motor, so make sure you insert it right so you don't need to undo things later. Finally... You can remove the last gear. I would strongly encourage cleaning all the grease out, and when reassembling, add fresh White Lithium grease everywhere. Don't add too much, but add a nice liberal amount. Mine was brown because of rust. On mine I sanded off the center post (for the T-Bird) and put some POR-15 on it.
  2. For those curious, if your Gen 1 or Gen 2 Ford or Mercury branded vehicle has a keypad, and remote keyless entry, this procedure SHOULD work for you! (I say should, because there's always that what-if, or possible bad sensor in seat, or bad keypad. If you think this is an issue, diagnose each accordingly) Autolock Per the Ford Service manual from the 95 MY: NOTE: This feature is only available on vehicles with automatic transaxles. All doors will automatically lock after all the following steps are completed. l The autolock feature is activated. l The driver seat is occupied. l All doors are fully closed. l The ignition switch (11572) is in the RUN position. l The shift control selector lever passes through the REVERSE position. After initial lock, all doors automatically relock when any door is opened and then closed, except if driver seat is empty or ignition switch is OFF. To activate the autolock feature, use the following steps: 1. Enter the five-digit permanent entry code into keyless entry keypad (14A626). 2. Press and hold the 7/8 button on the keyless entry keypad within five seconds of entering the code. 3. Press and then release the 3/4 button within five seconds of pressing and holding the 7/8 button. 4. Release the 7/8 button on keyless entry keypad within five seconds of releasing the 3/4 button. To deactivate the autolock, repeat the above sequence. For Gen 3 Taurus/Sable: Appears you can go either way. Perform the Gen 2 method, or the Gen 4 Method. Gen 4 is below For Gen 4 Taurus/Sable: Here's for Gen 4: Autolock is a feature that will automatically lock all doors when all of the following occurs: - all vehicle doors and liftgate are fully closed - the ignition key is in the RUN position - vehicle is not in P (Park) or N (Neutral) - vehicle speed exceeds 5 kph (3 mph) The autolock feature repeats when all of the above occur and any door is opened and then closed 1. Turn the ignition to the 4 (ON) position, then press the power door UNLOCK control 3 times. 2. Turn the ignition to the 3 (OFF) position, then press the power door UNLOCK control 3 times. 3. Turn the ignition to the 4 (ON) position. The horn will chirp one time as confirmation that the programming mode is staged. 4. Within 5 seconds, press the power door UNLOCK control and then press the power door LOCK control. Note: The horn will chirp once if autolock was deactivated or chirp once then honk (one short and one long chirp) if autolock was activated. 5. Turn the ignition to the 3 (OFF) position. The horn will chirp once to confirm the procedure is complete. For those unfamiliar with key positions: Gen 5 Taurus/Sable, shockingly... Not different from Gen 4, but you CAN go back to programming with the keypad! (Who doesn't love using keypads... ) Power door lock switch autolock enable/disable procedure 1. Turn the ignition to the off position. 2. Close all the doors. 3. Enter factory–set 5–digit entry code. 4. Press and hold the 3 • 4. While holding the 3 • 4 press the 7 • 8. 5. Release the 7 • 8. 6. Release the 3 • 4. And, Ford added Auto Unlock, which can be disabled: Power door lock switch autounlock enable/disable procedure. Before starting, ensure the ignition is in the off position and all vehicle doors are closed. You must complete Steps 1–5 within 30 seconds or the procedure will have to be repeated. If the procedure needs to be repeated, wait a minimum of 30 seconds before beginning again. 1. Place the key in the ignition and turn the ignition to the on position. 2. Press the power door unlock control on the door panel three times. 3. Turn the ignition from the on position to the off position. 4. Press the power door unlock control on the door panel three times. 5. Turn the ignition back to the on position. The horn will chirp one time to confirm programming mode has been entered and is active. 6. To enable/disable the autounlock feature, press the lock control, then press the unlock control. The horn will chirp once if autounlock was deactivated or twice (one short and one long chirp) if autounlock was activated. 7. Turn the ignition to the off position. The horn will chirp once to confirm the procedure is complete. Keyless entry keypad autounlock enable/disable procedure Or via Keypad: 1. Turn the ignition to the off position. 2. Close all the doors. 3. Enter factory–set 5–digit entry code. 4. Press and hold the 3 • 4. While holding the 3 • 4, press and release the 7 • 8. While still holding the 3 • 4, press and release the 7 • 8 a second time. 5. Release the 3 • 4. The user should receive a horn chirp to indicate the system has been disabled or a chirp followed by a honk to indicate the system has been enabled. Gen 6: Good bye keypad, but you can use Gen 5's methods, OR!!! Use your instrument cluster... Welcome to the digital age, you folks have it easiest to disable/enable these features
  3. Copying over some of my writeups here, good for if you wanna change your steering wheel out to leather and or leather w/ wood, or downgrade to the vinyl/rubber one from a base model. Or any other reason to remove the wheel. Note: Although this write up is for the Gen 4.5 with the upside down taco air bag. This write up will help in the aid of removing a Gen 2 and 3 Steering wheel. I hear the Gen 4.0 is a bit silly. This is easy to do. But before I start - Disclaimer time!: You are dealing with your Supplemental Restraint System Airbag. Airbags can cause harm or death when improperly handled according to studies. This is a guide to point you in the right direction, but I will not be hold responsible for any harm done by fiddling with your Airbag system. Continue at your own risk, otherwise take it to a shop. Step 1. Unplug your negative battery cable, and turn some accessories on (Headlights) or whatever to help drain the capacitors. I recommend 30 minutes or more to let the car sit. Service manual suggests 1 minute, I still prefer 30+, be safe than sorry. Step 2. Remove the plastic covers behind your cruise control switches, they are 2 circles. And inside is an 8mm bolt. Remove those, and carefully make sure your airbag doesn't fall out on the last bolt, position steering column facing up is my recommendation. Step 3. carefully lower the Airbag, as you can access the two wiring clips behind that are what detonate your airbag. My guess is there are 2 plugs for the 2 stage? Dunno, just don't be stupid here and apply ANY power or test equipment to these plugs. Step 4. Unclip the wires from the back of the bag. These are color coded, and also shaped so they cannot be improperly installed. Remember, this whole procedure, your car is to not have your battery connected, at all, no lights, indicators, etc should be functional. The clips release from the sides, and pull out easily. Note, store the airbag so that the Ford emblem is facing up. Just in case the bag DID detonate, it wouldn't make itself fly up and cause damage. I placed mine on an antistatic bag used for computer parts. Step 5. Grab a T-50 Torx bit, and remove the center bolt in the steering wheel (image above for location of bolt) This is a b***h to get off, but doable. Step 6. (What I did) pull violently side to side, top to bottom, corner to corner, until wheel comes loose. I did not need a special puller. It will slide off. Optional part: Changing components from 1 wheel to another (You bought a leather wrapped wheel, or wood trim wheel, but wanna keep your Cruise control, and back housing.) Step 1. Remove the 4 big torx screws, size is a T-20. I recommend placing them on something like a carpet, and in the way it was pulled out, that way easy to put back in. Step 2. Remove the black plastic underneath, torx bit T-15, there are only 2 of these. The top half pulls out with some working out, they are wedged in, but easy to get out. Example of how I have everything laid out on the floor: Step 3. Remove all Phillips head screws. 4 Long ones for cruise control, 2 for holding the plastic cover on. Set these aside and remember which are for which (not hard to do) Step 4. remove switches and shove them into the middle. Then just pull on the plastic, and ensure you make sure the switches don't get caught on the wheel. I don't recommend separating the harness from Cruise control from plastic, then set it down. You now have your whole wheel apart. Reassembly is the reverse of removal for both wheel removal, and component removals. Enjoy! Hope this writeup helps someone interested in removing their Gen4.5 Wheel.
  4. Just a simple howto, removing a Gen 2, and possibly Gen 1 with floor shifters, this is how you do it First, it is easier to shift into 1st, then climb into the passenger seat. Second, locate this U Hook. Your shifter is made of a soft plastic, so you can wedge a flat headed screw driver in, and gently pry it out, then remove it. After this has been removed, you may need to pull up pretty hard, but the shifter will come out. This gives you total access to remove the PRNODD1 panel to clean it thoroughly from years of dirt. Installation is simple, put the shifter back in the same position, then press really hard down, then just put the U Hook back in, and gently tap it in. Do not force it. May need to use a set of pliers to compress it to make it a perfect U (Mine started to spread out, so I needed to use pliers) Enjoy!
  5. This is fairly simple in theory, but only hard part is when you have wires up the ass under your dash for: Alarm/Remote Starter, PATS Bypass, Custom EATC, Subwoofer in trunk, etc etc. Basically, it is a direct swap, 13mm sockets for everything, I recommend having a deep well, and a ton of extension bars to get around it. Removal of pedals: Take off the lower dash trim (2 8mm bolts, then yank off) Take pin off brake pedal going to master cylinder (You'll see a rod with a yellow pin) Note how the brake switch is wired in on the car to install. Take off the cable linkage to accelerator: Protip - Put a wrench in the throttle to hold it half way open to get more cable leverage inside, There's a little clip that holds it in. Unbolt the assembly. Power pedals is one solid assembly, old fashion is two, one brake, one accelerator. There are two bolts directly above the pedals, and 4 nuts holding at the brake pedal, 2 at the accelerator. To make my life easier, I unbolted the steering column to the rack, and took the U-joint out, and set it aside so I had more space to work. To remove current brake pedal switch: You MUST get to the tabs on the back side, without taking the dash apart, just get a long screwdriver and do it from underneath with the lower dash cover off. Slide out the pedals, undo the brake switch (There are two, one should be part of the rod going to the brake cylinder, one above, a nice bright green switch, that twists out. Installation: Slide the assembly into the spot where the old pedals were, and bolt in. Attach the brake pedal to the brake cylinder, installing the switch as it was removed. Install the green switch by inserting and twisting in, zip tie the wiring so it will not be in the way. Attach throttle linkage Now the fun part! Wiring! This part is very simple for Gen4.5's, and written for 4.5's with the switch on the instrument cluster panel. When harvesting, cut as much harness as possible from your donor car. There are 7 total wires 3 Blacks - Ground - Find a ground anywhere. 1 Blue/White - Interior Light circuit, tap in behind your light switch. 1 Red wire - 12V+ In, I tapped into my ignition switch for power. 1 Pink Black 1 Blue/Red There are two wires on your pedal assembly: Pink/Black, and Blue/Red. attach these two to the switch. Once all that is done, installation is complete. Older Gen4's are similar with the switch in the seat, except no interior light circuit. Side by side comparison: Wiring Diagram: (Early Gen4.0, No Blue/White interior light) Pin at brake pedal to remove, and part of the steering shaft to remove: Finished assembly: Where switch goes: Why do power pedals? Long roadtrips, it feels great to be able to adjust the seat around, but also move the pedals around to prevent fatigue. And, if you are shorter, you can sit a bit further away from the wheel. I am not shorter, but I prefer it for the fatigue thing.
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