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Bob Gervais

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  • Content Count

    28
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About Bob Gervais

  • Rank
    Newbie

Car Information

  • My Car
    1992 Ford Taurus SHO
  • Engine
    3.2 MTX

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Westerly, RI
  • TCCA Name
    carfixer68
  1. FYI, you don't need a code reader to get the codes: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13 Two digit codes (I think 91 was two digit, if not, this same site has the three digit codes) http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=14 Of course many have mentioned getting the codes first. Honestly, all the searching in the world isn't going to do you any good, your efforts would be better spent getting that code and going from there. Often times, too much research will lead to thinking there's other problems that aren't there.
  2. OK, let me suggest: -Scan CEL codes and post them. That will tell you a lot. -Depending on what the codes say, it may be worth dropping the pan, and at least checking the filter. -The 13 issues are going to help you troubleshoot. Unfortunately, there's nothing that, without a doubt, is going to tell you component "x" is the issue. That chart, along with the CEL codes, will tell you (and us) a lot about what's going on and possible solutions.
  3. Sure it does. The "no drive in drive range, and no reverse in reverse range" section is the one you should be paying attention to. Out of curiosity, had you dropped the trans pan at all? I've seen issues like this before that had resulted from a filter not fully seated/incorrectly seated.
  4. That would be the throttle cable. Axle circlip would not cause the issues you're having, and it's physically impossible for it to come completely out of the trans with everything assembled. Get the CEL codes and go from there.
  5. axod-e started in 91. Before that was the axod, which used a TV (throttle valve) cable to control trans pressure, shift points, etc. What year is this car/engine trans combo? If it has a TV cable and it's not adjusted properly it will cause major problems. I don't think you ran it long enough with low fluid to ruin anything. Yes, low fluid will cause damage, but it's not like you were on the road for an hour doing 90 MPH being 6 quarts low. Matter of fact, how low was it? Was the trans and tq converter drained at some point? Being that you never separated the engine/trans, I'm wondering why anyone thought the tq converter needed to be filled. At any rate, adding fluid the way your dad did it seems like the correct method. Add fluid, start the car and work it through the gears, get the fluid warm, shut off car, add fluid as needed, repeat as many times as necessary. Speaking of dear ol' dad, you guys need to cut him some slack. He's doing his best to help his kid out.
  6. QFT. Way back when I had to swap the Vulcanator out in my old 97, I started pulling the engine and trans as a unit. What a pain in the donkey! I ended up separating the engine/trans and pulled just the engine out. That was the last time I did any Taurus motor swap out the top. Devin, hope things are going well and you get your car rolling again soon! Thanks for keeping us posted.
  7. I'd go for the Gen 3/4 rear SFB's on all four corners rather than the Dorman crap. Tim's correct, their stuff is junk.
  8. Yep, 400. And that same motor is still going strong in my 92!
  9. All depends on how long it's going to be out for Tim. I would definitely agree, at a dealership or other shop where lift time was an issue, you want to have a rolling chassis. Up at NESHO, we've taken a couple of subframes and customized them with casters, so that we can bolt those in place of the car's actual subframe and have a movable vehicle. Obviously not a viable option for any shop that doesn't work on the same cars day in and day out though....
  10. This is exactly how I'd do it if I didn't have the use of a shop and a lift. It's pretty difficult to get the engine/trans assembly out the top with an ATX.
  11. Well, it either has to come out the top or out the bottom. I've found it easier to drop the whole subframe/engine/trans as a unit, out the bottom. Depends on the equipment you have available.... What tools are you working with? Engine hoist?
  12. 87 octane won't hurt it at all. I run it in mine all the time unless I'm doing a track event or feeling generous toward the car that particular day. Any idea of maintenance done? If it's in poor shape maintenance wise, it'll bring the value down tremendously, especially being an ATX. The rust is the killer. I know you mentioned the one spot, but I've seen hidden rust on a LOT of cars. Common areas are the rocker panels and doglegs inside the rear doors. Honestly, and no offense intended, I wouldn't expect to see more than $300-500 for it, based on the verbal description.
  13. I don't blame you, I wouldn't be happy either, especially after all the money you spent. Good luck at the dealer, hopefully it's a cheap fix!
  14. Wow, I haven't been to Branson in years! I think the last time I was there was around 92. Drove out to Wichita to visit my then brother in law, who was stationed there in the AF. Spent a couple of days in Branson on the way out, and on the way back we spend a couple of days in Nashville. I bet Branson's a lot different now!
  15. You wanna rassle for resident asshole?
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