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    2000 Sable
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  1. hopeless

    4g Alternator noise after rebuild

    Thanks Chart. Since the noise was present before the rebuild, I must have damaged it. No good deed goes unpunished. I am not looking forward to removing the alt. again. The original regulator was black and the replacement was gray. I questioned the vendor, but he indicated that wouldn't cause the problem. Berry
  2. I decided to rebuild the alternator on my 2000 Sable Duratec at 100k miles. The alt. was functioning perfectly, but after reading about problems with the thin walled slip rings wearing out, I decided to purchase a kit and rebuild it. The kit (from Performance Starters) included a new rotor, bearings, and voltage regulator&brushes. Every thing works fine, but there is a whistling noise, similar to a vac. leak. The noise is only present at idle and disappears above 1k rpms. I traced the noise to the alt. with a small hose for a stethoscope. It is not the noise usually associated with bearings. That leaves diodes as a possibility or maybe just air flow through the alt. Since it only occurs at idle, I am stumped. Any ideas? Berry
  3. I recently changed the fuel pump on my 2000 Sable with duratec engine and noticed there was a sol. on the top of the gas tank with lines that ran to the cannister. Dunno if it is the same on a SHO., but if so, it would probably require dropping the gas tank to check out the connection.
  4. hopeless

    Fuel Pump&more

    Update-The new fuel pump solved the problem. No more intermittent starting problems, the cel extinguished itself, and the car started on the first turn of the key. I also learned that the fuel tanks are siphon proof. There is a baffle in the tank near the fuel pipe that makes it impossible to insert a siphon hose. Before removing the tank, I attempted to siphon any remaining gas. I guess the moral of the story is that the p1237 code and failure to hear the fuel pump running on startup, is usually caused by the fuel pump, not the fpdm, inertial switch, relay, or fuse. Berry
  5. hopeless

    Fuel Pump&more

    The ongoing saga of the P1237 code has provided much entertainment for almost a year. About 6 months ago I replaced the fpdm and all was well until the code reared its ugly head again. The usual symtoms are not hearing the fuel pump run when starting, followed by rough running and dying. Cycle the key a few times and it runs fine until the next episode. I have a new Motorcraft fuel pump ($252 from Amazon) and am in the process of installing. There was a change in tank size in 2000 from 16 to 18 gal. I discovered that I had ordered the wrong one and of course they are not returnable. On looking at the 2 pumps, I noticed that the only difference is the length of the float arm lever on the sender unit. Not giving up easily, I cut&bent the float arm on the red top 18 gal pump to match the one on the 16 gal pump that I removed from the tank. We will see if that works out. On to the next problem. In order to remove tank, there is a pipe running from the top of the tank to maybe the charcoal cannister beneath the spare tire. The pipe is about 5/8"OD, and has a connection similar to the one on the fuel filter, only much larger. It uses a plastic clip to hold the connection together. I broke the clip when taking it apart and was told by the local Ford dealer that they are not available and the only source would be a junk yard. How could this be? It hard to believe that these clips aren't available. Any ideas? Berry
  6. I am also a member of the P1237 club and posted under "fuel pump" topic. I have had the problem intermittly for about 5 months. It usually happened after restarting when the engine was warm, but also once with a cold engine. It acts like the fuel pump momentarily quits running. This happened at least 4 times and I have always been able to restart the engine by cycling the key off and on several times, after which the car runs fine. The last time it went 2 months before re-occurring. I checked the relay and replaced the fpdm about a month ago and at the same time I purchased a motorcraft fuel pump through Amazon for about $252. I haven't installed the fuel pump, but the problem hasn't re-surfaced. Also,the fuel pump is a red lablel and the compatabilty chart shows that it fits all 2000 Taurus&Sable. I have a 2000 Sable with the 24v duratec engine and the owners manual lists the gas tank capacity as 16 gal. I think this is correct, as I can't remember ever putting over 16 gal. in it. I will be following your experiences with interest.
  7. hopeless

    Fuel Pump?

    It is located in the trunk on the passenger side. The back of rear seat has to be removed to access the nuts that hold it. I just replaced mine ($111) in an attempt to cure an intermittent problem (dtc p1237. I hate to throw parts, but it is very difficult to diagnose a problem that comes&goes and would be hard for the dealer to find. The car had gone 2 months without a problem. Then it resurfaced. Replaced the fpdm and all is well, so far. About the only thing left is the fuel pump. What are your symptoms?
  8. hopeless

    Fuel Pump?

    Just a quick update on the intermittent fuel pump problem. After cleaning the ground contact that is located just forward and below the inertia switch, the problem hasn't reoccured. Maybe just a coinsidence. I have decided to gamble and hold off replacing the fuel pump.
  9. hopeless

    Fuel Pump?

    I contacted fordparts.com and was told that there was an error in the description. $64.09 was for the sender only. The fuel pump with sender was over $400. Amazon is looking pretty good at $253. Berry Albany, OR
  10. hopeless

    Fuel Pump?

    Thanks. I will check it out. An oem pump&sender for $64.09?
  11. hopeless

    Fuel Pump?

    I have the duratec (not flex fuel) engine, but from looking at the compatibility chart, all 2000 Sable&Tauri use the same pump (PFS 244)My owner's manual shows 16 gal. for the fuel tank. The inertia switch has never tripped and with the key on, I tried whacking it and wiggling the wires with no effect. Right now, the car is running perfect. Sabaka-I wonder if the PS-107 pump for $64.09 is used?
  12. hopeless

    Fuel Pump?

    Thanks for the welcome and replies. The fuel normally runs about 2 sec. when the key is turned on. When the problem occurs, I don't think I hear it. The relay would be the cheapest&easiest suspect to eliminate. As far as fuel pumps, I wish the oem was available without the sender. The cheapest oem Motorcraft pump&sender I have found is through Amazon at about $253. I have always played with old British cars (mostly Triumph Tr6) and they are just the opposite of the Sable.Simple, but less reliable, but the problems are easy to diagnose and the parts are cheaper.
  13. hopeless

    Fuel Pump?

    I have a 2000 Sable that has been very reliable, but recently has developed an intermittent problem that has been difficult to diagnose. About 3 times in the last 2 months, it has been difficult to start and I don't think I can hear the fuel pump running when the key is turned on. After cycling the key several times it starts, but the CEL comes on and always produces a P1237 code (fuel pump secondary circuit). Some times the car will almost stall when warm and produce the same code. I have tried to produce the problem by wiggling all the wires to the fpdm and inertia switch, also by cleaning the ground wire contact. I hate to take it to a garage when the problem only shows up intermittently, as they could spend a lot of time trying to diagnose the problem. I also, don't want to look at the back of a tow truck. At this point, I am considering throwing a new fuel pump at it. I have noticed that the factory fuel pumps contain the sender units. Is the factory pump available without the sender unit or should I consider an aftermarket pump? Any thoughts?