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Everything posted by steveg1988

  1. Saturday i am doing 100% highway driving, 90 mi trip down to cape may court house NJ. That should give me a picture of my MPG, doing a steady 65mph on the interstate/atlantic city expressway/Parkway.
  2. It is difficult but doable, it is mostly splicing wires together and routing it under the carpets and seats. anyone here get one from crutchfield, and kept the directions?
  3. Also if you have a vulcan, replace the dogbone with a motorcraft part. It is a 10 minute swap over and the part is right on top.
  4. I use 10W30 in a lawnmower, does not really make a difference
  5. The vulcan v6 imho seems happiest on xW30 oil, as it is an older design, it seems to run best on the slightly "thicker" oil. Might be placebo, might be real, but it is silky smooth on 5W30 synth blend. Since you just bought the car, you may want to change out the spark plugs, they are probably factory ones still, get double platinum plugs and replace the wires if you got a vulcan, or just double platinum plugs alone if you got a duratec with coil on plug.
  6. Not really, the thing about lucas is...the oil treatment is just really thick gear oil that causes the oil in the crankcase to become thicker, thus slowing the leak. If you have a slow leak, just keep topping off the oil instead of trying to fix it chemically, if stuff gets in the wrong spot and clogs, your engine can go bad.
  7. Fram oil filters are built rather...crappily, see they cost more than a purolator and less than a motorcraft...but are lower end, as in the end caps of the filter. This is an FL400S, built by purolator for ford, slightly different bypass valve design. This is a typical fram orange can of death. and this is a used purolator cut open All 3 filters can be had for less than 4 dollars, in a cold climate the motorcraft is the best bang for the buck as the silicone anti drain back valve will not harden like normal rubber.
  8. Actually that is not true any more, modern synthetics are able to go into any engine.with a synth you could extend your oil to every 2 months.
  9. Air filters filter better as they get dirtier. In alaska i would use a full synthetic oil, 5W20 or 5W30 depending on what one is more common in your neck of the woods.
  10. Mine, due to the conti pro contacts, has a little struggle to get bite on freshly snowed on roads, but once moving it is stable as can be, 1996-1999 non SHO models might be better in the snow due to the narrower tires, narrower=better for snow. 215/60/16 vs 205/65/15
  11. Remove the K&N filter, the filter will filter less sediment through the intake, dirtying up the oil in the process and causing more wear and tear, nothing beats a plain and simple air filter. Is it a 3.0 OHV or Duratec? Also, when was the last time you changed the coolant out? The vulcan should be every 30,000 mi. Also the transmission fluid is due at the same time.
  12. Crossroads decided, keeping the car. It has been too good to me, but first sign of transaxle trouble it is gone like old yeller
  13. no matter what i always seem to get between 20 and 23 mpg in my sable, never better, never worse, i got 30 a few times but that was before the a/c seized up. Am i chasing after a problem that does not exist by investigating the fuel system, vaccum, etc?
  14. Any update on what to lubercate with? i was thinking silicone tuner lubercant for old TV's, we used to have that stuff when we had a manually tuned TV
  15. Hard to find is a subjective term, perhaps hard to find in that region, due to people running them to death.
  16. Get yourself a gen 4 sedan, duratec if possible. it would be a decent replacement for the v8 bull, and would keep you in the taurus family.
  17. what should i put on them, i had mine jam slightly, got it moving again.
  18. 118 (governor) in a 2006 focus. NJ Turnpike between exit 5 and 6 (PA Extension) NJ Turnpike exits are sequental tho, so it was not 118 for a mile, it took a while to get up there
  19. Do i invest more money, my mechanic checked my struts out and the rear mounts are going, so i need to swap them out for new ones and replace the struts due to them having Sagging arse syndrome. Then i have to replace the front end links, then fix the a/c compressor, then potentially repaint the bumpers, hood and put on a new fender, then replace the headlights. I am oddly debating calling it quits and finding a car in better shape with lower miles on the clock, i got 176,800 right now. I have grown attached to my 2003 sable, i enjoy driving it but...the age/mi are what is killing it for me,
  20. changed my thermostat and messed up, had my mechanic fix my small mistake (i did not feel like having to take it apart...again just to fix the gasket and have to clean off the screwed up gasket, i put it on slightly wrong, under instead of over the thermostat) and i forgot to take a picture of the old thermostat, but it was not gunked up, just a little bit of surface rust, so i presume the cooling system on my car is decently intact. my mistake caused me to use nearly a gallon and a half of coolant, but now it is fairly topped off with yellow universal.
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