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k8crd

Registered Member
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    132
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About k8crd

  • Rank
    Regular Member
  • Birthday October 23

Car Information

  • My Car
    04 Mercury Sable Wagon
  • Engine
    3.0 Duratec

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sheridan, Michigan
  • TCCA Name
    k8crd
  1. The last part of any repair is verification that the problem has been fixed or eliminated. The last couple weeks there have been days of 0 F to -18 F temperatures in which to try out the starter and see if the problem continues to repeat or not. I am very happy to report that the starter problem is now fixed, after testing it out on 3 different ocassions. I just wanted to say THANK YOU, to this forum and the individuals (Chart) for providing the solution to my issue. Paul in Michigan
  2. I found a starter/alternator rebuild place that uses OEM Motorcraft parts so as my starter was rebuilt I watched and shot some pictures. The original solenoid required slightly more effort to actuate it than the new replacement part. Also, the bendix gear could have used more grease on the reduction side. After the bendix was cleaned up of the old grease, the new grease was applied that was a snythetic with a lower freezing pt. and high melting pt. The bearing in the endcap for the armature was replaced. The orignal brushes looked new but where replaced anyway. The picture shows the armature before it was cleaned, and tested. No problems were found with it. A new solenoid was installed. The total cost for the rebuild was $35.
  3. I hooked up the dc ammeter is series with the negative terminal on the battery and the ammeter showed 1.5 amps initially, then dropped to .5 amp and then zero amps at approx. 30 min. So therefore no parasitic losses going on with the car. This phenomena was all caused by the batt. charger doing its thing internally and causing the ammeter on the batt. charger to cyclingly jump from zero (or very close to it) to 6-7 amps. Thank all of you gentleman for your valued input -- I learned something from this exercise.
  4. Chart, the batt. charger is an automatic one, that does not shut off after so many minutes.
  5. Thank you CHART for the pictures and explanation! I am coming to the same conclusion the solenoid is weak, and or I have a lubrication issue on the bendix. The last time I changed a bendix on a starter was on a 1967 cougar that one of my sisters drove, that did not know when to let up on the starter switch once the engine was running !!
  6. When I charge my brand new battery with the battery charger I experience this issue: With the battery charging rate set for 2 amps, and when the analog meter needle shows that the battery is charged (needle shows 0 amps going into the battery) -- then every 30 seconds the needle will jumps up to 6-7 amps and then drop back down to 0 amps going into the battery. This will keep repeating as described above over and over. With the battery charging rate set for 10 amps, and when the analog meter needle shows that the battery is charged (needle shows 0 amps going into the battery) -- then every 9 seconds the needle will jumps up to 6-7 amps and then drop back down to 0 amps going into the battery. This will keep repeating as described above over and over.. Something is obviously drawing power from the battery during the above 2 short events. The cars doors are physically closed, but the door locks buttons are up/alarm system is disengaged, not external or internal lights are on. Is this normal ? I experienced this same issue, even if I switch battery chargers, and as well on two different car batteries? Is the computer drawing this kind of power or is something else drawing this power for short intervals ? Could I have a shorted diode in the alternator that could be causing this ? Has anyone experienced this ? I was going to start pulling fuses to see what circuit this issue is tied to ! Any ideas on how to defeat Mr Murphy will be appreciated ! Paul in Michigan (COLD)
  7. 2004 Mercury Sable, DOHC, new battery, 101K miles, original starter. If the car gets to around 5 F or below, car will not start. Turn the key, no starter engagement just a buzz sound for a short interval heard ( no engine cranking or turning over) while I sit in the drivers seat with the hood up. I can hear the fuel pump come on when I turn the key to start position. Put on a portable hand carry battery jumper across the battery and the car will start sometimes. I plan on checking the resistance of the positive wire going from the battery to the starter. I plan on reading the voltage at the starter with the key turned to the start position. I plan on checking the resistance of the negative wire to ground. I plan on checking the starter to see if it has a good ground.k8crd The car starts fine if it is warmer than 5 F most times. A mechanic friend of mine had a Taurus of similar vintage brought to him (at the same time that I had the problem with my vehicle) that exhibited the same issue. He took a propane torch and heat the starter and the car started. Has anyone run across this same issue? Not sure if ice is forming on the solenoid/bendix that is keeping it from engaging ! Any other ideas or help is appreciated ! Paul in cold climate of Michigan
  8. Hi guys, Does anyone have the lastest Rock Auto Discount code as of Jan 29, 2014 ?? Have a 2004 Sable that may need to get a rebuilt starter ? Thank you in advance! k8crd
  9. Looking to replace a 2004 Mercury Sable Station Wagon High Mounted 3rd brake light assy. that is located in the top of the rear hatch door. The top half of mine came off while driving due to the glue drying out. I have seen some gen 3 3rd brake light assy. in the junk yard, but they were already starting to separate along the top and bottom halves. Send me pictures of what you have ! Thank You! k8crd
  10. Rude, What is in the rebuild kit - new brushes, emory cloth to clean the commutator, and a new bearing ? What is "FLAPS" ?
  11. Harold, Does this vehicle have the vulcan engine? If it does, has the heater core been flushed to prevent the no heat condition ?
  12. El Sho, What model Toyo tire, did you put on your vehicle? I put 20k miles on my set of Toyo Extensa A/S tires on my Sable, and developed a balance problem that the dealer could not fix. He would balance them and they would be fine for a few days, and then the unbalance would come back? I had the tires since new, and had them balanced and rotated every 3k miles as well as had the tires aligned. Finally after 3 attempts to balance the tires, the dealer took them back and gave me credit toward some Yokohama Avid Touring tires. I am very happy with them.
  13. After driving the vehicle awhile, stop and feel the temperature of the left rear wheel hub and compare it to the right rear wheel hub. If the left rear wheel is hotter, you most likely have a dragging brake. Do you have rear disks or drums? I had a previous sable that had rear caliper slide pins that were corroded and causing the rear brake to drag.
  14. On my 96 sable, mine went out in 2009 (13 years) at 150K miles. It reached its end of life. There was nothing left of the motor brushes just black dust. Water intrusion was not a factor on mine. I picked up a replacement one at Advance auto for $30 something. It fit perfectly, just had to transfer the squireel cage from the old one to the new one. Stayed away from the dealer who wanted $140.
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