Jump to content


Centennial Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Spridget

  1. Nancy is back in full granny car guise, I swapped her sneakers for her original dress shoes and we went to a doctors appointment. Been having a noise from the rear end for a while, but I usually keep the volume turned up and ignore it. Her health insurance expires at 100k and she’s currently at 94k. The dealer found a failing left rear hub bearing. Nancy got a hip replacement. I had the coolant replaced while she was under. Paid the deductible and she’s back on the road. Sneakers need some new tread, so she’ll be wearing the chromies on newer Michelins for a little while. Gas mileage drops 1-2
  2. Is your 2000 a OHV Vulcan or DOHC 24V Duratec? God help you if you have the single year produced 2000 Duratec.
  3. I’m confused by the diagnostic process here. Please elaborate. So you’ve started the engine. The engine is running and voltage is normal. With engine running at normal temp, you disconnect the battery terminal and engine dies. What voltage did you see at the battery before disconnecting the terminals with the engine at normal temp? Did the voltage decline as the engine warmed up? As Kodachrome describes above, I’ve also seen alternators that fail as they warm up.
  4. And finally had the windows tinted. 5% on the rear, 35% front, and 70% windshield. Makes a big difference with the Texas summer.
  5. The PTU exploded. No warning, driving down the highway. Heard a loud BANG rattle rattle from underneath the car. A moment later I began smelling gear oil burning on the exhaust. Stinky!! Thankfully, this was a CPO car and still under warranty. $100 deductible and the local Ford dealership replaced the PTU. I asked the service advisor what might have caused the unit to explode. I suspect they’ve seen more of these than he let on. He said there was no apparent reason. No help there, but the dealership had it repaired quickly. I have recorded a solid 5% improvement in my fuel mileage si
  6. Power steering on my car failed while driving 65mph in highway traffic, in a construction zone. Took all the strength in my arms to turn into the parking lot at work. Once I had parked, I shut the car off and restarted, steering restored. Should be covered under warranty. But damn that was a little scary. The steering wheel jerked and then got super stiff. If I had been in the middle of a fast curve, especially when wet, game over. 72K miles.
  7. It’s been a year and 25k miles with the MKS. Fairly certain the PTU is beginning to whine after I replaced the missing fluid 😕. Sync is acting weird, Pandora doesn’t work properly anymore. Acquired some hail dings recently but nothing I’m gonna worry about. The MKS is really just a Mercury Sable, it doesn’t deserve a Lincoln badge. I see very few MKSs on the road, about the same number of MKTs, only slightly more Tauruses, and probably more Flexes than all the others combined. I like it’s uncommon-ness.
  8. Sounds like the camshaft synchronizer. Chirps at idle and low rpm, poor idle and occasional misfire. Buy the more expensive Motorcraft unit, or else you’ll waste your money buying another cheap one in 3 months.
  9. The plug from the head unit to the trunk plugs into one of the connectors plugged into the trunk radio unit. This is the output to the speakers. You need to disconnect the plug from the trunk radio unit and connect the new plug from the new head unit.
  10. MAF values are usually between 0.1-5.0V. O2 values are usually 0.1-1.0V. On a scope, MAF graphed values will switch back and forth from low to high with increasing frequency as airflow increases. Upstream O2 values will also switch back and forth with regular frequency. Downstream O2 sensors should maintain a solid value. “Lazy” or old upstream O2 sensors may switch at a slower rate, but it’s fine as long as the values are consistent, switching the full range of voltages. Bad downstream sensors will show inconsistent readings.
  11. @ Thub - Yeah, anything “lifetime fill” is a bad idea. I hit a pothole a couple months ago. Bent a rim and immediately lost air pressure. Gave me a chance to weigh the stock chromies against the Vöxx wheels. OEM chrome 20” wheels weigh almost 15 lbs heavier EACH than the Vöxx 20” matte “titanium” wheels. Major difference that you can immediately feel in the driver's seat.
  12. Last week I performed an oil change and serviced the PTU and rear differential. The car is currently at 58K miles. I wasn’t expecting the PTU fluid to be terrible, but guess what... it was. I believe the unit holds about a quart of fluid. I was lucky to suck out (no drain plug) about a table spoon of dark metallic paste. I was able to add half a quart of fresh fluid. I’m hoping that the new fluid will loosen up the sludge. I will drain and refill the PTU within a couple hundred miles, and repeat several times. Rear diff looked completely normal.
  13. My ‘96 SHO turns 25 this year which means it’s old enough that the State of Texas should finally disregard the issues with the title. I might finally get it legal! And it’s considered a “classic” vehicle that allows me to run special license plates.
  14. Looking for the lightest, non-chrome, affordable 20” wheels, here’s what I found. Not sure how I feel about the dark wheels. Kinda feel like it’s been played out for a while, and yet it’s still popular. I did not want gloss black, these are somewhere in between matte and satin “bare titanium” (they are aluminum wheels). These are Vöxx Leggero, weighing 27lbs bare. I have not yet measured the weight difference between these and factory wheels.
  15. Nope. Couldn’t do it. Took out the H&R springs. 👎 Even with Drive Control set to Sport, the front end was to prone to bottom out. The car wasn’t “sporty”, although the lower ride height did improve cornering, it couldn’t handle small bumps.
  16. I would be remiss if I didn’t say ride quality is most definitely sacrificed, but cornering is also much improved. With Drive Control set to Sport, the suspension firms up and seems to me to be the best match for the springs. Body roll is almost eliminated. I was afraid the H&R springs would lower too much, as I’ve seen from most of their applications, and I’d say that’s true here too. I’d like half an inch back. Looks good though.
  17. H&R springs installed today. Replaced all four sway bar links, which corrected some clunks I was hearing. Car rides much quieter now. Ride quality on the lowering springs ain’t bad. The Lincoln’s “Drive Control” handling modes provide 3 settings, Comfort, Normal, and Sport. Sport was always very firm, Normal is fine. Comfort was always soft and floaty, now it’s soft and “sproingy”. Rebound / jounce aren’t matched well with the stiffer, shorter springs. About 1.25” drop in the front, 1.5” in the rear.
  18. After several tanks of 87 octane without issue, I switched to 91 and uploaded the 91 performance tune. 1000 miles on 87 I recorded 22.8mpg (includes some light towing and idling). Definitely an improvement in acceleration. Torque comes on earlier and remains flat to a higher redline. Shifts are deliberate without being overly firm. Sport mode is very quick. I never got the opportunity to gauge the performance next to another car 😒. Fuel mileage remained essentially the same, averaging 23.4mpg over roughly 1500 miles. I have returned to the 87 tune for now. I got a package f
  19. Recipe for LED puddle lamps You’ll need: • 30-31mm LED festoon bulbs • small pry tool, small knife, etc • clear silicone sealant After removing the puddle lamps from the mirrors, bake the lamps at 200°F for 10-15 minutes. Carefully remove from the oven and gently pry the clear plastic lens from the black plastic housing. Remove the lamp and replace with the LED bulb. Test the lamps for correct polarity prior to sealing the lens. Use a small amount of silicone sealant around the rim of the lens to secure it in place. Repeat for the other side.
  20. Installed the SHO Performance Package from Unleashed Tuning. I’ve worked with Torrie in the past, which is why I chose him over Livernois. Installation was fairly simple. Plug swap is surprisingly easy on the EcoBoost (compared to a Duratec or 3.4L SHO). Thermostat was also straight forward. MAP sensor swap takes 15 seconds. The reprogramming process takes a few minutes using the X4 device. I’m currently running an 87 octane tune. First impressions: throttle is remapped for better response. Shifts are about the same, maybe slightly quicker/firmer. Redline is slightly higher. Overall
  21. Good thing it’s so far away. I’d be all over that 😅
  22. Familiarizing myself with the EcoBoost engine bay today. I noticed this air intake inlet is kinda small. The inlet is sealed from the engine bay and draws fresh air from the left grill. Where’s my dremel? I’m not making any claims about performance, but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ why not. I wouldn’t mind some more intake noises. and I debadged the trunk.
  23. I tapped a power lead to the amp. Grey/red gets power at all times and runs to a 20A fuse. I used the 10A fuse supplied with the kit as well. Works great.
  24. Very happy with the Borla cat back kit. Very nice fit for a multi-piece system. It’s a little tight next to the rear diff, but I haven’t heard any bumps or rattles from inside. The stock exhaust has a small relief or indentation at the diff for clearance, but the entire length of the Borla kit is mandrel bent and perfectly round. I have not seen competing kits to compare, but I would be surprised if the quality is even close to Borla. Sound is very well controlled in the cabin. It’s maybe a decibel louder than stock. Very quiet overall. Noticeably “not stock” at start up. At WOT, there is
  • Create New...