Jump to content


Centennial Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Spridget last won the day on February 23

Spridget had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

498 The Chosen One

1 Follower

About Spridget

  • Rank
    In a shed, doing maths
  • Birthday September 3

Car Information

  • My Car
    1996 Ford Taurus SHO
  • Engine
    3.4L V8

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    The Lone Star State
  • Chapter
  • TCCA Name

Recent Profile Visitors

16330 profile views
  1. Power steering on my car failed while driving 65mph in highway traffic, in a construction zone. Took all the strength in my arms to turn into the parking lot at work. Once I had parked, I shut the car off and restarted, steering restored. Should be covered under warranty. But damn that was a little scary. The steering wheel jerked and then got super stiff. If I had been in the middle of a fast curve, especially when wet, game over. 72K miles.
  2. It’s been a year and 25k miles with the MKS. Fairly certain the PTU is beginning to whine after I replaced the missing fluid 😕. Sync is acting weird, Pandora doesn’t work properly anymore. Acquired some hail dings recently but nothing I’m gonna worry about. The MKS is really just a Mercury Sable, it doesn’t deserve a Lincoln badge. I see very few MKSs on the road, about the same number of MKTs, only slightly more Tauruses, and probably more Flexes than all the others combined. I like it’s uncommon-ness.
  3. Sounds like the camshaft synchronizer. Chirps at idle and low rpm, poor idle and occasional misfire. Buy the more expensive Motorcraft unit, or else you’ll waste your money buying another cheap one in 3 months.
  4. The plug from the head unit to the trunk plugs into one of the connectors plugged into the trunk radio unit. This is the output to the speakers. You need to disconnect the plug from the trunk radio unit and connect the new plug from the new head unit.
  5. MAF values are usually between 0.1-5.0V. O2 values are usually 0.1-1.0V. On a scope, MAF graphed values will switch back and forth from low to high with increasing frequency as airflow increases. Upstream O2 values will also switch back and forth with regular frequency. Downstream O2 sensors should maintain a solid value. “Lazy” or old upstream O2 sensors may switch at a slower rate, but it’s fine as long as the values are consistent, switching the full range of voltages. Bad downstream sensors will show inconsistent readings.
  6. @ Thub - Yeah, anything “lifetime fill” is a bad idea. I hit a pothole a couple months ago. Bent a rim and immediately lost air pressure. Gave me a chance to weigh the stock chromies against the Vöxx wheels. OEM chrome 20” wheels weigh almost 15 lbs heavier EACH than the Vöxx 20” matte “titanium” wheels. Major difference that you can immediately feel in the driver's seat.
  7. Last week I performed an oil change and serviced the PTU and rear differential. The car is currently at 58K miles. I wasn’t expecting the PTU fluid to be terrible, but guess what... it was. I believe the unit holds about a quart of fluid. I was lucky to suck out (no drain plug) about a table spoon of dark metallic paste. I was able to add half a quart of fresh fluid. I’m hoping that the new fluid will loosen up the sludge. I will drain and refill the PTU within a couple hundred miles, and repeat several times. Rear diff looked completely normal.
  8. My ‘96 SHO turns 25 this year which means it’s old enough that the State of Texas should finally disregard the issues with the title. I might finally get it legal! And it’s considered a “classic” vehicle that allows me to run special license plates.
  9. Looking for the lightest, non-chrome, affordable 20” wheels, here’s what I found. Not sure how I feel about the dark wheels. Kinda feel like it’s been played out for a while, and yet it’s still popular. I did not want gloss black, these are somewhere in between matte and satin “bare titanium” (they are aluminum wheels). These are Vöxx Leggero, weighing 27lbs bare. I have not yet measured the weight difference between these and factory wheels.
  10. Nope. Couldn’t do it. Took out the H&R springs. 👎 Even with Drive Control set to Sport, the front end was to prone to bottom out. The car wasn’t “sporty”, although the lower ride height did improve cornering, it couldn’t handle small bumps.
  11. I would be remiss if I didn’t say ride quality is most definitely sacrificed, but cornering is also much improved. With Drive Control set to Sport, the suspension firms up and seems to me to be the best match for the springs. Body roll is almost eliminated. I was afraid the H&R springs would lower too much, as I’ve seen from most of their applications, and I’d say that’s true here too. I’d like half an inch back. Looks good though.
  12. H&R springs installed today. Replaced all four sway bar links, which corrected some clunks I was hearing. Car rides much quieter now. Ride quality on the lowering springs ain’t bad. The Lincoln’s “Drive Control” handling modes provide 3 settings, Comfort, Normal, and Sport. Sport was always very firm, Normal is fine. Comfort was always soft and floaty, now it’s soft and “sproingy”. Rebound / jounce aren’t matched well with the stiffer, shorter springs. About 1.25” drop in the front, 1.5” in the rear.
  13. After several tanks of 87 octane without issue, I switched to 91 and uploaded the 91 performance tune. 1000 miles on 87 I recorded 22.8mpg (includes some light towing and idling). Definitely an improvement in acceleration. Torque comes on earlier and remains flat to a higher redline. Shifts are deliberate without being overly firm. Sport mode is very quick. I never got the opportunity to gauge the performance next to another car 😒. Fuel mileage remained essentially the same, averaging 23.4mpg over roughly 1500 miles. I have returned to the 87 tune for now. I got a package f
  14. Recipe for LED puddle lamps You’ll need: • 30-31mm LED festoon bulbs • small pry tool, small knife, etc • clear silicone sealant After removing the puddle lamps from the mirrors, bake the lamps at 200°F for 10-15 minutes. Carefully remove from the oven and gently pry the clear plastic lens from the black plastic housing. Remove the lamp and replace with the LED bulb. Test the lamps for correct polarity prior to sealing the lens. Use a small amount of silicone sealant around the rim of the lens to secure it in place. Repeat for the other side.
  • Create New...